P3 SE - solution to switching between FCC and CE mode, I used both, and it works for sure!

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But remember, only in DJI Go version 3.1.23!

Thanks guys for you answers. That means you updated your version alfter the manipulation ? I have to admit that I am almost lost...

I followed instructions but my GPS map show where I actually am and not fake position. It works anyway ? How can I see if it works ?
 
Thanks guys for you answers. That means you updated your version alfter the manipulation ? I have to admit that I am almost lost...

I followed instructions but my GPS map show where I actually am and not fake position. It works anyway ? How can I see if it works ?
The best way is out on the field ;-) since you can`t check how many channels you have under 2.4ghz frequency with DJI GO version 3.1.8
Hope it worked!
 
The best way is out on the field ;-) since you can`t check how many channels you have under 2.4ghz frequency with DJI GO version 3.1.8
Hope it worked!

I've done all correctly and saw that I had the 11 channels. As you said, I have to test on the field.

One more question : Should I do these manipulations every time I want to flight or once is enough ?
 
I've done all correctly and saw that I had the 11 channels. As you said, I have to test on the field.

One more question : Should I do these manipulations every time I want to flight or once is enough ?
Ones you switch to fcc and install DJI GO 3.1.8 you are all set. No need do do this every time.
 
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First successful flight in FCC:

The signal and the overall connection was greatly improved in FCC mode. The difference was definitely noticeable even though I didn't do a range test and I've kept the drone quite close. There was some wind outside and I decided to stay at around 400m distance at max. I've never lost signal during the flight. During the flight I've switched from video to photo mode multiple times and everything seemed to work fantastic.

During I've set the maximum altitude to 500m and I've climbed up to around 350m to take some shots. I couldn't do this in CE mode. While climbing to a higher altitude, the wind got stronger and I could see the aircraft slowly drifting away but everything was under control since my intention was to descend back to 120m quite quickly after I take the photos. I had around 50% battery left, I was at a distance of around 350m and 350m in height aswell.

Suddenly the app crashes. Everything was frozen. This took me by surprise and I believe I wasted quite some time figuring out what was going on. While this was happening, the aircraft was slowly drifting away as mentioned above. While being in a complete state of panic, I've initiated the failsafe RTH, flicking the S2 switch twice. I'm quite glad I did because this bought me the chance to restart the app while the aircraft was advancing very very slowly towards the homepoint.

After that it reconnected and I've managed to crank up the speed and successfully landed with about 23% battery left. This wasn't a close call by any means but I believe it could have been possible to lose the drone in this situation.

For example, if I didn't initiate the failsafe RTH from the controller, I believe the drone would have drifted away even further. I don't think it would have drifted away far enough to be out of signal range but it would have made returning back home harder with the remaining battery.

If it did drift away outside of signal range, I believe it would have been dead/gone by now. From what I've experienced so far, under windy conditions I've noticed that RTH doesn't work as expected. Once RTH is initiated, the aircraft tends to hover instead of speeding up the motors to the max in order to compensate the wind. Same goes for landing. I've noticed that once the aircraft is above the homepoint, it tries to stabilize itself instead of descending faster and it tries to constantly adjust it's position without descending or descending very slowly.

So moral of the story is: 3.1.8 tends to crash. Take that into account. All apps were closed on my Android device and it was also freshly restarted before the flight. Try to be a bit more conservative in order to accommodate an app restart. Even with the crashes, will I switch back to 3.1.23 and CE mode? Absolutely not. I believe the overall flight experience is way safer considering how good the signal was in FCC mode. I honestly believe I wouldn't have a drone today if I was flying in CE mode.

I will try to test 3.1.8 on iOS too sometimes to see if it crashes in the same way.
 
Thaks for sharing this with us! I se you had a learning experience with this flight Drone on and safe flights. Watch out with the iOS version and make sure you turn off all the location reporting options, or you will be back to CE mode
 
Thaks for sharing this with us! I se you had a learning experience with this flight Drone on and safe flights. Watch out with the iOS version and make sure you turn off all the location reporting options, or you will be back to CE mode

Oh, I can fly with the latest versions of the app (3.1.22, 3.1.23) just by disabling location reporting for the app? I thought I had to install 3.1.8 there too.
So there's a chance to actually fly 2.4ghz in FCC mode then?
 
I think you should be fine with just disabling location reporting, at least this is what others are saying... I don`t have iOS so can`t confirm.
 
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Oh, I can fly with the latest versions of the app (3.1.22, 3.1.23) just by disabling location reporting for the app? I thought I had to install 3.1.8 there too.
So there's a chance to actually fly 2.4ghz in FCC mode then?

What kind of firmware are you using with iOS? I'm using 1.3.20 with app version 3.1.18 (yes, .18). I had also problems with 3.1.8 on iOS. And I'm still flying in FCC.

When you set your drone in FCC and you downgrade to firmware 1.3.20 then you are be able use the newest app version ( in iOS).
 
By reading your answer guys @chatikib and @psyke I have one question : how did you downgrad your programm with iOS ? I have Android and iOS at home and would like to test both.
 
An
By reading your answer guys @chatikib and @psyke I have one question : how did you downgrad your programm with iOS ? I have Android and iOS at home and would like to test both.
There are many instructions on Youtube. There you can see how to downgrade the firmware. It is important not to panic when you are downgrading. In addition, you must be patient. My personal tip next to all other advice: use a clean, formatted SD card. In another topic on this forum you will find the firmware.

For the firmware it does not matter which operating system you use. Most people work with Android but iOS works just as well. For Android, more than ever, it has to be a fast system; unfortunately, a lot of junk tablets are sold. iOS is always fast.
 
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Thank you for your answer @chatikib

OK. Yesterday I downgraded my DJI App (.18) with Fake GPS trick. Today I flew for 5 minutes AND it has f*** worked. Even with an Android Tab ! Such perfect : over 600m and still no problem to flight (last time was ~250m). I'll try one more time today and I'll do a feedback, but it sounds really good.

Weather situation : cloud/fog - 1,5° C - alt ~430m
Firmware DJI : last
DJI GO : .18
Mobile device : Android Galaxy Tab A 2016

I'll keep you informed.

EDIT : I forgot to mention that my remote antenna was on the opposite of my UAV xD ! That means, it would be even better if it was on the correct side !
 
Last edited:
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Thank you for your answer @chatikib

OK. Yesterday I downgraded my DJI App (.18) with Fake GPS trick. Today I flew for 5 minutes AND it has f*** worked. Even with an Android Tab ! Such perfect : over 600m and still no problem to flight (last time was ~250m). I'll try one more time today and I'll do a feedback, but it sounds really good.

Weather situation : cloud/fog - 1,5° C - alt ~430m
Firmware DJI : last
DJI GO : .18
Mobile device : Android Galaxy Tab A 2016

I'll keep you informed.

EDIT : I forgot to mention that my remote antenna was on the opposite of my UAV xD ! That means, it would be even better if it was on the correct side !
Perfectly done @jaYss! A few days back I tried to fly but was stopped by the restrictions of DJI. According to them, I was not a registered user and my maximum distance was 30 meters with a maximum height of 30 meters.

I have removed the app and installed it again. Afterwards I think that the problem was caused by applying this modification. The modification ensures that I can not make contact with DJI.

At this moment I have to wait until the weather becomes calmer. At this moment it is storming and there is a lot of rain.
 
Perfectly done @jaYss! A few days back I tried to fly but was stopped by the restrictions of DJI. According to them, I was not a registered user and my maximum distance was 30 meters with a maximum height of 30 meters.

I have removed the app and installed it again. Afterwards I think that the problem was caused by applying this modification. The modification ensures that I can not make contact with DJI.

At this moment I have to wait until the weather becomes calmer. At this moment it is storming and there is a lot of rain.

Interesting modification. It was maybe too much :D ? I really hope that this distance problem is only linked to the firmware which is ****** up....

Where do you live ?
 
What kind of firmware are you using with iOS? I'm using 1.3.20 with app version 3.1.18 (yes, .18). I had also problems with 3.1.8 on iOS. And I'm still flying in FCC.

When you set your drone in FCC and you downgrade to firmware 1.3.20 then you are be able use the newest app version ( in iOS).
Can I have a question? If you have IOS why do you dont use Litchi with latest firmware? I suppose Litchi doesn't switches back to CE mode. Or?
 
Hi guys, I am reading this topic and I am so much happy that there is a way to switch to FCC mode Just one question if you can please help me.
I am using iPhone 6s and I am a noob for this hacking thing :) how can I downgrade my DJI GO app to 3.1.8 on iOS?
 
Hi guys, I am reading this topic and I am so much happy that there is a way to switch to FCC mode Just one question if you can please help me.
I am using iPhone 6s and I am a noob for this hacking thing :) how can I downgrade my DJI GO app to 3.1.8 on iOS?
The solution is simple. Remove your old app from the iPhone. Then connect it to a PC. Install the iFunbox program on your PC. Follow the instructions. If you have not installed iTunes on your PC yet, you will still need to do so. You can install the old app via iFunbox.

The old iPad / iPhone apps can be found in the topic: DJI Go - For products before P4
 
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Can anyone confirm me please, that it's possible to use on IOS the newest Litchi instead of old DJI Go 3.1.8, and it will not switch back to CE mode?

Please!
 
First successful flight in FCC:

The signal and the overall connection was greatly improved in FCC mode. The difference was definitely noticeable even though I didn't do a range test and I've kept the drone quite close. There was some wind outside and I decided to stay at around 400m distance at max. I've never lost signal during the flight. During the flight I've switched from video to photo mode multiple times and everything seemed to work fantastic.

During I've set the maximum altitude to 500m and I've climbed up to around 350m to take some shots. I couldn't do this in CE mode. While climbing to a higher altitude, the wind got stronger and I could see the aircraft slowly drifting away but everything was under control since my intention was to descend back to 120m quite quickly after I take the photos. I had around 50% battery left, I was at a distance of around 350m and 350m in height aswell.

Suddenly the app crashes. Everything was frozen. This took me by surprise and I believe I wasted quite some time figuring out what was going on. While this was happening, the aircraft was slowly drifting away as mentioned above. While being in a complete state of panic, I've initiated the failsafe RTH, flicking the S2 switch twice. I'm quite glad I did because this bought me the chance to restart the app while the aircraft was advancing very very slowly towards the homepoint.

After that it reconnected and I've managed to crank up the speed and successfully landed with about 23% battery left. This wasn't a close call by any means but I believe it could have been possible to lose the drone in this situation.

For example, if I didn't initiate the failsafe RTH from the controller, I believe the drone would have drifted away even further. I don't think it would have drifted away far enough to be out of signal range but it would have made returning back home harder with the remaining battery.

If it did drift away outside of signal range, I believe it would have been dead/gone by now. From what I've experienced so far, under windy conditions I've noticed that RTH doesn't work as expected. Once RTH is initiated, the aircraft tends to hover instead of speeding up the motors to the max in order to compensate the wind. Same goes for landing. I've noticed that once the aircraft is above the homepoint, it tries to stabilize itself instead of descending faster and it tries to constantly adjust it's position without descending or descending very slowly.

So moral of the story is: 3.1.8 tends to crash. Take that into account. All apps were closed on my Android device and it was also freshly restarted before the flight. Try to be a bit more conservative in order to accommodate an app restart. Even with the crashes, will I switch back to 3.1.23 and CE mode? Absolutely not. I believe the overall flight experience is way safer considering how good the signal was in FCC mode. I honestly believe I wouldn't have a drone today if I was flying in CE mode.

I will try to test 3.1.8 on iOS too sometimes to see if it crashes in the same way.
I had a most pleasant flight yesterday, but the app keeps crashing. I noticed that even DJI Go 3.1.23 started crashing after my tab A updated to the latest 7.1.1 Android version. Now I'm trying to do a rollback to Android 6.0.1, which was stable and I had zero problems with DJI Go (besides the CE-mode prob...)
I just hope that Go 3.1.8 is as stable with Marshmallow as the newer versions were.

My pulse was nearly 200bpm when my bird was way beyond line-of-sight and the app crashed...but it stayed hovering at 60m alt and I got the app back running.
 

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