The professional filter set for the Phantom 3

Hi, in terms of installation its easier and has the same thread. The balance is affected, it droops but like an unladen unpowered P3 - it is corrected of course when powered on. I tried adding the zinc weights (didn't spend very long on it, been updating firmware and such) but they foul on the gimbal a bit so I need to work out positioning.

Bottom line, I'm really happy and they work well - just need to spend some time working out the balance (but I'm not overly concerned, seems absolutely fine)

Oh lastly I'll need a solution for a gimbal clamp or remove it each time, no biggie.
 
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How I'm doing the gimbal stabilization :) saves the $20 polar pro wanted out of me!
I just seen how you did yours and thats a heck of an idea, just finished doing that to mine as well, I had a different gimbal lock that I was using but had to remove the filter everytime I put it away, with this way you can leave it on which is great and the gimbal is still held in place real well.... thanks for the great idea
 
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I wasted my $ on the inserts. Then the screw on ones, and was VERY frustrated in not finding ANYTHING worth a crap after using them a few times. UNTIL I found this thread and was introduced to the video of the Rainbowers set, that is. Do yourself a BIG favor and save some $ by not buying any or all the others. I just received mine last week and they are FANTASTIC! Nothing else even comes close!! Wonderful and needed addition to my P3P!! Everything most would need, in one set. No wonder 1000+ Inspire pilots got in on the set for them!
 
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Just messaged Renaat and Aileen asking to order a set, and received some very sad news....
They are no longer going to be producing the filter set for Phantom 3. :(:(:(

If anyone can recommend a suitable alternative, or is perhaps interested in selling their Ranbowers set, please let me know.

Thanks.
 
Just messaged Renaat and Aileen asking to order a set, and received some very sad news....
They are no longer going to be producing the filter set for Phantom 3. :(:(:(

If anyone can recommend a suitable alternative, or is perhaps interested in selling their Ranbowers set, please let me know.

Thanks.


I'll sell you my set for what I have into it, $118 shipped . I've only used one of the ND filters twice. Everything is just like I received it. I had anticipated using it more but haven't.
 
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No one else will produce our set, neither the Inspire 1 X3, as they are made especially on our order and assembled by ourselves.
We were for both the first ones on the market and that on a non-commercial basis. Thanks to all supporting fans.
A pity, but the Phantom3/4 filter box takes besides our very hard daily occupancy too much time, so we decided to stop these, as there are good filters on the market, not in the combination possibilities we offer, but fair good to have a good photo/video.
The Inspire 1 X3 we will continue with non problems, as the Inspire 1 is really very sensible for having the right filters.
Thanks again to all supporters.
 
I am selling my set of Rainbowers filters for Phantom 3, as new, only used a few times. Please email me on grimlock101 (at) gmail.com. My drone now resides at the bottom of the ocean so I have no need for them. They are amazing though!
 
I'm real paranoid about my gimbal it is straight without a single problem. I'm not putting anything on my cam that requires a counter weight. No way!


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
I am selling my set of Rainbowers filters for Phantom 3, as new, only used a few times. Please email me on grimlock101 (at) gmail.com. My drone now resides at the bottom of the ocean so I have no need for them. They are amazing though!
Email sent :)

I'm real paranoid about my gimbal it is straight without a single problem. I'm not putting anything on my cam that requires a counter weight. No way!
Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app

8 months and my gimbal is still straight as well with the weights and using the best filter set no longer available :(
 
I am selling my set of Rainbowers filters for Phantom 3, as new, only used a few times. Please email me on grimlock101 (at) gmail.com. My drone now resides at the bottom of the ocean so I have no need for them. They are amazing though!
Which filter is missing? ;)
 
Hi do you have the link where you purchased your rainbowers kits
This is the original post with links on page 1 but he's not selling them anymore. There is a like new set for sale for £80 here at this post from above -
"I am selling my set of Rainbowers filters for Phantom 3, as new, only used a few times. Please email me on grimlock101 (at) gmail.com. My drone now resides at the bottom of the ocean so I have no need for them. They are amazing though! #308magnier, Tuesday at 1:35 AM"

I emailed him and that's a good price but I have a set and just can't warrant a second set when I fly only 1 UAV at a time. So shoot him an email :)
 
This is the original post with links on page 1 but he's not selling them anymore. There is a like new set for sale for £80 here at this post from above -
"I am selling my set of Rainbowers filters for Phantom 3, as new, only used a few times. Please email me on grimlock101 (at) gmail.com. My drone now resides at the bottom of the ocean so I have no need for them. They are amazing though!
#308magnier, Tuesday at 1:35 AM" I emailed him and that's a good price but I have a set and just can't warrant a second set when I fly only 1 UAV at a time. So shoot him an email :)
Did we ever find out which filter from the set is at the bottom of the ocean, with the aircraft? ;)
 
It's a full set.
I'm sure these will be perfect for someone, but I am curious about your own use, since you apparently weren't using any filter when your aircraft drowned. My suspicion is that they are more of a good idea than practical in use. If the ambient lighting in the scene changes, which caused you to select a particular filter at launch, or changes while yawing and changing direction, the needed precalculated filter, to achieve a shutter speed of twice the frame rate, also changes, and so now you have the wrong filter on, and all you have done is drastically reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. Did you find that to be the case?
 
My suspicion is that they are more of a good idea than practical in use. If the ambient lighting in the scene changes, which caused you to select a particular filter at launch, or changes while yawing and changing direction, the needed precalculated filter, to achieve a shutter speed of twice the frame rate, also changes, and so now you have the wrong filter on, and all you have done is drastically reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor. Did you find that to be the case?
For my part, it happens, yes.

I load the filter I think I need, but if I get up there and frame my shot only to find that the settings are not as desired, I land and change filters. This is no different than I've been doing for decades with my handheld SLR, only it takes more time to change. The more you do this, the better you get at guessing the right one to begin with, but still don't mind if you have to. Good photography can require patience.

So they're still practical, even if the wrong one is mounted at first. Or you can just decide that taking the time is not your bag, so you don't use filters at all.

Chris
 
For my part, it happens, yes.

I load the filter I think I need, but if I get up there and frame my shot only to find that the settings are not as desired, I land and change filters. This is no different than I've been doing for decades with my handheld SLR, only it takes more time to change. The more you do this, the better you get at guessing the right one to begin with, but still don't mind if you have to. Good photography can require patience.

So they're still practical, even if the wrong one is mounted at first. Or you can just decide that taking the time is not your bag, so you don't use filters at all.

Chris
Thanks for the input. However, if you are using them for still photographs, then they are being misused, because the graduated ND and polarizing filters wouldn't need to be changed, and they are the only ones for still photography, unless you want a long exposure for moving water. What I find puzzling is that the ND filters are primarily designed for video use, where the shooting is continuous and you will be yawing, constantly changing the direction of the lighting, which will continuously alter the chosen automatic exposure shutter speed away from 1/50 or 1/60 of a second. There is no flash involved where achieving flash sync speed might be useful, and there is no way to adjust the filter ND value during videography, like with a DSLR. Is it really ever worth it? It's really just blurring the frames of your video, to ostensibly achieve a cinematic look, at the cost of losing the ability to extract out sharp still frames. Surely, some of that blurring or stabilization can also be accomplished from the unaltered sharper frames, in post, using Adobe Premiere Pro, can't it?
 
Aye, for drone (not still SLR) photography, I use a polarizer for glare/reflections and the ND filters for shutter / frame-rate control. But exposure is exposure, whether it's still or video, eh?

Yes, I have seen people using ND filters for stills when it's not called for, which is usually the case with drone still photography. For shots with the sun it in, an ND filter does not change the dynamic range, so it's of no use. Might as well bring down the exposure compensation until there's no highlight blow-outs, then try to recover shadow details in post. But using an ND filter to "control the harsh lighting of the bright Bahama sun" is not useful for stills.

With video, you can be (but are not necessarily are) yawing regardless if you're using a filter or not. So you can have a good or bad sequence of frames either way (or some of each). If you've chosen the lower frame-rate and got a good percentage of the shot with the shutter-speed you need, and those frames are the primary shoot (what you pre-visualized), then the rest can be edited out.

Like with most photography, I try to be cognizant of the light source before I press the shutter release or hit the record button. So when it comes to yawing, I try to keep that in mind. I do fail often enough, but not always.

The cost of not having sharper frames for extraction is not something I personally am concerned about, or at least it's not a show-stopper for me. For stills, I typically know I'm going to be doing that pre-launch, so have the appropriate filter on.

Chris
 
Aye, for drone (not still SLR) photography, I use a polarizer for glare/reflections and the ND filters for shutter / frame-rate control. But exposure is exposure, whether it's still or video, eh?

Yes, I have seen people using ND filters for stills when it's not called for, which is usually the case with drone still photography. For shots with the sun it in, an ND filter does not change the dynamic range, so it's of no use. Might as well bring down the exposure compensation until there's no highlight blow-outs, then try to recover shadow details in post. But using an ND filter to "control the harsh lighting of the bright Bahama sun" is not useful for stills.

With video, you can be (but are not necessarily are) yawing regardless if you're using a filter or not. So you can have a good or bad sequence of frames either way (or some of each). If you've chosen the lower frame-rate and got a good percentage of the shot with the shutter-speed you need, and those frames are the primary shoot (what you pre-visualized), then the rest can be edited out.

Like with most photography, I try to be cognizant of the light source before I press the shutter release or hit the record button. So when it comes to yawing, I try to keep that in mind. I do fail often enough, but not always.

The cost of not having sharper frames for extraction is not something I personally am concerned about, or at least it's not a show-stopper for me. For stills, I typically know I'm going to be doing that pre-launch, so have the appropriate filter on.

Chris
Great explanation and summary. The graduated ND filter is the filter of most interest, to control the dynamic range of the scene with a bright sky, and the next would be the polarizer to cut glare, but with the latter, the angle to the sun changes with any diversion from the original direction for which it was intended, reducing the effect. I usually am flying at twilight, so keeping the ISO low is more important than slowing down the shutter speed, which is often in the cinematic range by default. I suspect less than 10% of drone filter purchasers fully understand what they are intended to do, and either use them incorrectly, or without successfully achieving the primary purpose of reducing the shutter speed in sunlight with a fixed aperture f/2.8 lens to twice the frame rate of their video. Interesting discussion. :cool:
 

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