Detailed comparison of commonly used ND filters

benthinking08 · Jul 1, 2017

msinger said:
Detailed comparison of commonly used ND filters (for the Phantom 3 & Phantom 4)

Overview

The goal of this thread is to compare the size, weight, type, and quality of commonly used ND filters for the Phantom 3. Since there isn't one best filter for every situation, this comparison should help everyone choose a filter that works best for them.

Since filters from the same sets have the same build quality, only one filter from each filter set was considered. Here's a list of the filters compared below:

DJI UV (screw-on stock filter)

DJI ND8 (screw-on)

Anbee/BTG ND16 (screw-on)

DitzCo ND8 (slide-on)

Freewell ND2-400 (screw-on adjustable)

Mudder ND2-400 (screw-on adjustable)

Neewer ND16 (screw-on)

Polar Pro ND8 (screw-on)

Polar Pro ND8 (slide-on)

SRP ND16/CP (slide-on)

TACO-RC ND16 (screw-on)

The above filters were chosen for the following reasons:

Most can be purchased on Amazon and/or eBay

They are commonly discussed in forums on the Internet

They have good reviews, so you should also have a good experience if you choose one of these brands

The following types of filters were compared:

Glass filter: This is the most common type of filter. It has a single glass lens and is only designed to be used in a specific lighting condition (e.g. cloudy, sunny, sunrise/sunset). These filters often come in sets since one is not right for all situations.

Gel filter: This filter has a thin, flexible plastic lens. Since the lenses are very thin, they can be layered as needed to block out more light. They can be easily scratched and/or bent, so they require more care than glass filters.

Adjustable ND filter: This filter is made of two layers of glass and has a top and bottom section. When the filter is twisted, more or less light is blocked. The advantage is that you can use one filter for any situation. A commonly discussed disadvantage is that they might not produce as clear of a picture as regular ND filters that contain a single layer of glass.

Note: All of the above filters will fit the Phantom 3 Professional, Phantom 3 Advanced, Phantom 3 4K, and Phantom 4. Only the slide-on filters will fit the Phantom 3 Standard since it does not have a removable filter.

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Close-Up Photos

DJI UV (screw-on stock filter)
View attachment 49212

DJI ND8 (screw-on)
View attachment 49211

Anbee/BTG ND16 (screw-on)
View attachment 49209

DitzCo ND8 (slide-on)
View attachment 49210

Freewell ND2-400 (screw-on adjustable)
View attachment 49213

Mudder ND2-400 (screw-on adjustable)
View attachment 49214

Neewer ND16 (screw-on)
View attachment 49215

Polar Pro ND8 (screw-on)
View attachment 49216

Polar Pro ND8 (slide-on)

SRP ND16/CP (slide-on)

TACO-RC ND16 (screw-on)

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ND Filter Specs

DJI UV--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.05 oz)

DJI ND8--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.05 oz ― same size as DJI UV filter)

Anbee/BTG ND16--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.05 oz ― same size as DJI UV filter)

DitzCo ND8--(slide-on/gel filter/plastic rim ― 0.01 oz)

Freewell ND2-400--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.20 oz)

Mudder ND2-400--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.35 oz)

Neewer ND16--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.10 oz)

Polar Pro ND8--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.15 oz)

Polar Pro ND8--(slide-on/glass lens/plastic rim ― 0.25 oz)

SRP ND16/CP--(slide-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.25 oz)

TACO-RC ND16--(screw-on/glass lens/metal rim ― 0.05 oz ― same size as DJI UV filter)

Note: Slide-on filters are used along with the stock UV filter. So, they add extra weight on top of the weight of the UV filter.

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Color & Sharpness Comparison

The following photos were taken indoors to ensure the same lighting was used for each photo. The Phantom was not designed to take detailed close-up photos, but it's a great way to compare the color and sharpness produced when using various filters.

View attachment 49207

Note: The color differences above aren't really that important if you're planning on editing your photos/video in a program like Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Premiere.

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Likes & Dislikes

While these filters all produce nearly the same end result, here are some things that set them apart:

All: Filters that are not the same size as the DJI UV filter might need to be removed in order to use your camera lens cap and/or gimbal lock.

DitzCo: These lenses attract more lint/dust than filters with glass lenses.

DJI: These filters have no marking on the outside, so you'll need to somehow label them or label the storage case so you're able to easily tell them apart.

Freewell: This filter has tick marks on the outside to show the selected ND level. This could come in handy if you want to use a similar setting again for a specific flying condition/location.

Polar Pro: Many of the lenses have traces of glue on the edges where they were glued in place. This does not affect the picture quality, but it's something you will visually notice when viewing the inside of the filters close up.

SRP: These filters fit very tightly, so they are not as convenient to use if you'll be changing them often. I found they are easier to remove if you wiggle them from side-to-side as you slide them off.

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Tips

When using slide-on filters, make sure they are fully depressed. Otherwise, you might see dark spots in the corners of your video/photos (AKA vignetting) or your camera might hit the ground as it rotates when your Phantom is starting up.

With the exception of the Freewell, SRP, and TACO-RC filters, all filters come with a pretty poorly designed storage case. The TACO-RC filter case works well for DJI filters and those that are the same size as the DJI filters. For all other filters, this 3-pocket or 6-pocket filter case works well.

You'll definitely need a camera lens cleaner (like this one) to clean fingerprints and/or dust/lint that often clings to the surface of the lenses.

The Phantom 4 gimbal lock cannot be used if you have filters that are not the same size as the DJI UV filter -- unless you modify it like this.

Make sure you have the appropriate filters to handle all of the usual lighting conditions where you fly. The following chart will help you figure out which filters you'll need:

Remarkable post!!! I wish I had the resources and expertise to be this helpful! Perhaps, in due time, I'll develop the necessary skills to guide and assist others.

I'd be interested to read any other tips, tricks, advice, etc. you may have regarding video/photography on P3P or similar drones. If you have a site or blog of other instructional materials, would you mind posting the link for me?

Thanks!!!

-Scoop

Craig H · Jul 1, 2017

This is an excellent ND filter discussion with the necessary detail for a beginner. Thank you to all contributors.

msinger · Jul 2, 2017

benthinking08 said:
If you have a site or blog of other instructional materials, would you mind posting the link for me?

Check out PhantomHelp.com.

Cometstorm · Jul 6, 2017

A little late to the game here, but....

I have the four piece Neweer CP/ND set.

Maybe it's my 64 year old eyes, but I couldn't notice any darkening change when rotating the rings.

Well, I did on the ND4, but not the others.

It's mid summer now, 3PM in the Midwest, sun still pretty high.

Does this work better with a lower sun?

Thanks!

JayS_CT said:
As someone said, everything is relative to where the filter lines up when screwed on but also to both halves. What I did was hold the filters up at 90 degrees to the sun and rotate. It's a lot easier to see this against a blue sky. Rotate the outer lens while holding the half that screws on steady. Look for the "darkest" blue sky. That's your maximum. Draw a line (silver fine point sharpie works well) across both rings. Rotate the outer ring to the point where there is almost no change to the blue sky. That's the minimum point.. now you only want to make a line on the half that screws on with a different color (or just scratch a line). Max is when the same color lines align after being screwed on and min is when the two different half colors align (usually 90 degrees of rotation). Works for me. And yes, water has a direct benefit. With the Neewer and the rings set to max, when I fly over some nearby small shallow "big streams/small river" the glare off the top of the water is gone and can see through to the underlying river bed (again though only because it is so shallow), with just a straight ND (I also have a couple of DJI ND only filters) there is no polarizing effect on the water and the glare is still there.

Cometstorm · Jul 6, 2017

Well, I may have found an answer.

Looking through the filter(s) at a computer screen, and rotating the ring... I see noticeable changes in perceived lightness/darkness.

I mark the darkest point on the ring with a dab of white-out so that it matches up with the "N" in the Neweer stamping.

captainstubbie · Jul 7, 2017

This is going to sound really dumb, but I need to ask before I ruin something, does the outside ring of the camera unscrew in front of the lens so that I can screw on these purchase lenses?

Cometstorm · Jul 8, 2017

If I understand your question correctly, the default UV filter unscrews before a screw on filter gets.... well, screwed on.

Be careful in this area... that default UV can be really tight, and stripped threads, etc. are common. There is a special tool for it, but some improvise with a rubber band, etc.

Snap on filters just get pressure fitted over the UV.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

captainstubbie · Jul 8, 2017

Thank you so much! I have several SLR cameras with filters that screw on the front but I did not want to ruin this camera by trying to remove something that wouldn't come off LOL it appears to be on quite tight.