Birdside antenna mod version 2.0.

I bought a crashed P3S on ebay, had everything but the battery. Guy crashed it in his pool, I wanted another bird to tinker with so I took a gamble on this. Out of the box it looked perfect, put a battery in and it flew, records video perfect, only problem was I could only get about 300-400 feet and lose video.

I purchased some of the P3A antennas and put them on and my first flight I got 1300 feet. Not bad, I plan on getting it working a little better and selling it.

Then get another project bird!
I do the same thing! Bought a broken P3S replaced camera. Put external 2.4g antennas from camera to bird. Can fly it out 11000 feet with dbs antenna. Video downlink is not the greatest. 2nd project bird gets 13000 feet with decent video using the birds internal antennas. Interesting each bird. (I have 3) have different characteristics!!
 
I have a P3S and and did the DBS mod. I also replaced the stock P3S birdside antennas and the landing gear with a set from a P3P as was mentioned earlier in this thread. Instead of just running the antenna wires straight to the camera, I opened the AC and and removed the stock antenna wires from the board, then plugged the new antenna wires in. All connections were double-checked and hot glue was used to secure them. I'm not getting the range I'd hoped for. According to DJI Go, I flew out about 4,200 feet at a altitude of just under 400 feet and then RTH kicked in. This happened a couple of times. I'm in a bit of a low spot compared to the surrounding area, but the altitude difference is minimal. There are hardwood trees around me, but I'm in a relatively open area with the RC. Just prior to the RTH engaging, my video was getting weak.

My question is, did I do something wrong by connecting the P3P antennas directly to the board inside the AC? I'm sure my results should be much better than they are. Any help is appreciated.
 
P3P leg antenna's are all 2.4GHz. The U.FL connectors inside the bird are for the 5.8 remote signal.
 
I have a P3S and and did the DBS mod. I also replaced the stock P3S birdside antennas and the landing gear with a set from a P3P as was mentioned earlier in this thread. Instead of just running the antenna wires straight to the camera, I opened the AC and and removed the stock antenna wires from the board, then plugged the new antenna wires in. All connections were double-checked and hot glue was used to secure them. I'm not getting the range I'd hoped for. According to DJI Go, I flew out about 4,200 feet at a altitude of just under 400 feet and then RTH kicked in. This happened a couple of times. I'm in a bit of a low spot compared to the surrounding area, but the altitude difference is minimal. There are hardwood trees around me, but I'm in a relatively open area with the RC. Just prior to the RTH engaging, my video was getting weak.

My question is, did I do something wrong by connecting the P3P antennas directly to the board inside the AC? I'm sure my results should be much better than they are. Any help is appreciated.
Just like the other to post before mine, I'm not sure your understanding that the Wi-Fi 2.4 antennas are the ones that come from the gimbal, and those are the ones that this thread is referring to. The antenna that run up to the main board are on a different frequency and require different antennas, that is a 5.8 signal meant for RC control.
 
I have a P3S and and did the DBS mod. I also replaced the stock P3S birdside antennas and the landing gear with a set from a P3P as was mentioned earlier in this thread. Instead of just running the antenna wires straight to the camera, I opened the AC and and removed the stock antenna wires from the board, then plugged the new antenna wires in. All connections were double-checked and hot glue was used to secure them. I'm not getting the range I'd hoped for. According to DJI Go, I flew out about 4,200 feet at a altitude of just under 400 feet and then RTH kicked in. This happened a couple of times. I'm in a bit of a low spot compared to the surrounding area, but the altitude difference is minimal. There are hardwood trees around me, but I'm in a relatively open area with the RC. Just prior to the RTH engaging, my video was getting weak.

My question is, did I do something wrong by connecting the P3P antennas directly to the board inside the AC? I'm sure my results should be much better than they are. Any help is appreciated.

Next time you read about and then try to do a mod to your Phantom 3..... READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!! It's been mentioned a few times in this thread that you were only supposed to use 2 of the antennas and that they were only for the 2.4ghz (the one's that attach to the camera). No where in this thread does it say to open up the bird. Pay attention guys, pay attention!!!!!

 
Next time you read about and then try to do a mod to your Phantom 3..... READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!! It's been mentioned a few times in this thread that you were only supposed to use 2 of the antennas and that they were only for the 2.4ghz (the one's that attach to the camera). No where in this thread does it say to open up the bird. Pay attention guys, pay attention!!!!!


Over the course of several days, I DID read the entire thread...

The wires attached to antennas on the legs run directly to the board inside the AC. It would seem obvious that the new P3P antennas could do the same- unplug the P3S antennas, replace them with the P3P antennas. No wires hanging outside the AC. Maybe I'm missing something here.
 
Over the course of several days, I DID read the entire thread...

The wires attached to antennas on the legs run directly to the board inside the AC. It would seem obvious that the new P3P antennas could do the same- unplug the P3S antennas, replace them with the P3P antennas. No wires hanging outside the AC. Maybe I'm missing something here.

You couldn't have...

I'll make it easy on you.

Read post #1. No mentioning of opening up the aircraft.
Read post #7. I even posted a video of how to hook them up.
Read post #37. It says "No opening of the aircraft required"
Read post #93. My rant when someone else didn't read the thread......
 
I just installed the P3 Professional antenna into my Standard.
I did see some gain in distance, but the video back to my Phone was somewhat choppy.
The mod was easy, and cheap $2.79 + $2.75 shipping on Amazon.
I am still considering the DBS mod, if I go that route, should I reconnect the old internal birdside antennas, or just keep the P3 professional antennas installed, that I just put on.
 
Over the course of several days, I DID read the entire thread...

The wires attached to antennas on the legs run directly to the board inside the AC. It would seem obvious that the new P3P antennas could do the same- unplug the P3S antennas, replace them with the P3P antennas. No wires hanging outside the AC. Maybe I'm missing something here.
Yout not replacing the P3S antenna that are in the legs but the patch antennas that you can see either side if you look into the battery compartment. Those antenna run into and connect to the camera.
The ones one the P3S legs you have to put back into the new landing gear,dont dissconnect them atall,just refit into the new legs.
Both pairs of P3S antennas are differant wavelenghts,legs are 5.8ghz(which you keep) and patch inside bird which are 2.4ghz (which are the ones your replacing)
All four antenna on your new landing gear are 2.4ghz but you only need to use two of them.take the other two off to make room for the 5.8ghz your keeping from the P3S legs
 
I just installed the two P3P antenna on to the legs as well. The video feed was now more stable, which I was very happy about. But my video was still cut off before the RC signal.
That got me thinking, what else could be improved? And I think the diagonal placement is not ideal.
I think the P3P leg antenna are directional. Someone over on the P3P forum cracked opened a P3P leg antenna, inside, the PCB showed two folded dipoles arranged in the H shape with a ground strip going down in the middle of the H. See post below:
Birdside Antenna Mod
I am not an antenna expert by any standard, but I think the radiation is no longer omni-directional like a single dipole, it will be shaped slightly more like a figure-8. Therefore, I am changing the placement of the two P3P antenna to the two rear legs, and leaving the two 5.8GHz ones to the front legs. (I am mounting them on a pair of P3P landing gear here). This way, the two P3P antenna will be 90 degree to each other and there should be no signal black spots. If you are just using zip ties, you can try orientate the PCB's so they are 90 degree from each other.
If the video feed is still choppy, I will have to the Magic Power hack. (I'm running CE mode)
 
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I just installed the P3 Professional antenna into my Standard.
I did see some gain in distance, but the video back to my Phone was somewhat choppy.
The mod was easy, and cheap $2.79 + $2.75 shipping on Amazon.
I am still considering the DBS mod, if I go that route, should I reconnect the old internal birdside antennas, or just keep the P3 professional antennas installed, that I just put on.
I have a DBS and also use this mod, so I'd say stay with it DBS or not. These are better than the stock ones.
 
As I stated a few posts ago, I installed the P3P antennas into the legs of my P3S.
I got out to about 1500 ft, and the signal strength for the video feed, started to fluctuate from 100% down to 33%, back to 100% , then back to 33% about once every 5 seconds.
Any ideas?
 
As I stated a few posts ago, I installed the P3P antennas into the legs of my P3S.
I got out to about 1500 ft, and the signal strength for the video feed, started to fluctuate from 100% down to 33%, back to 100% , then back to 33% about once every 5 seconds.
Any ideas?
Since you have a DBS, I'd say aiming is off. But in any case worry more about the signal quality, not the bar reading so much. I've flown out thousands of meters with a bar reading of zero, and video was good the whole way. That was using Litchi in manual mode.
 
Since you have a DBS, I'd say aiming is off. But in any case worry more about the signal quality, not the bar reading so much. I've flown out thousands of meters with a bar reading of zero, and video was good the whole way. That was using Litchi in manual mode.


No DBS Mod yet
 
No DBS Mod yet
Got it, but it could still be an aiming issue. The wifi 2.4 GHz antenna in the stock RC are direction too just like the DBS, just not as much. Also do you have anything in front of the RC, like fingers or a windsurfer mod?
 
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Best mod i ever did this. I used 2 x 6dbi omni antennas on P3S. Perfect signal no matter my orientation, and i went 7500m without a single disconnect too and even crossed over a village at 6000m, all with only 24db drone side. Only returned due to battery. It wasnt about range though, that was a bonus. I did it as I was sick of trying to keep the drone patch antennas facing towards me. I think ive exhausted all modding options now. Time to make it all look nice, Creality cr-10 3d printer is now in the post to make a proper landing gear and controller amp holder.

1AFyxK6.jpg
 
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I agree, IMO, it was a mistake to use the patch antennas on the drone.
P3SE has reverse back to using 4x landing skid antennas (2 for 2.4g plus 2 for 5.8g), and the quoted range has shot up to 4Km now.
 
the part broke on p3 is the little gold connecter the the black wire attaches to how do I get around this problem
 

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