PS3 Suddendly short range, Mode Changed to WiFi Reconnect?

[RodPad]

"Therefore, one should be careful not to bring the remote close to the copter when it is turned on. At least 1 meter. Especially if the transmitter of the console is amplified or there is a directional antenna."
If this statement is true, then this chip could burn out at any time. I really believe it is not the firmware causing this, it is the procedure.
The units work fine over 1000'. What do we do when we are updating firmware?

Place them about a foot apart.

Rod

 

[Kueni]

@Fly Dawg
Made some interesting discoveries this afternoon. As soon as I push the stick ( to move forward ) fully down, the drone loses signal, maybe you see it in the Log.
I don't think it does make any difference but I did downgrade the drone to 1.5.7

DJI Flight Log Viewer - PhantomHelp.com

"Therefore, one should be careful not to bring the remote close to the copter when it is turned on. At least 1 meter. Especially if the transmitter of the console is amplified or there is a directional antenna."
If this statement is true, then this chip could burn out at any time. I really believe it is not the firmware causing this, it is the procedure.
The units work fine over 1000'. What do we do when we are updating firmware?

Place them about a foot apart.

Rod

But again if this statement would be true, there should be a big red warning as big as your whole screen if you want to make an update

Hard to say if the damage is done immediately or over time. That is assuming this truly is the issue. For me, I ran the update and acquired a new RC to install the Itelite DBS at the same time. I thought I had a bad install until I swapped it out for the original RC with no change. The other thing I noticed is I would not lose signal until I tried turning. Ultimately DJI sent me a new drone and wrote it up as replacing the main board.

I can turn around the drone and it doesn't affect the signal.

 

[Fly Dawg]

You can see that somewhat in the logs, but the issue is the intermittency. Looking very carefully at the timeline, it looks to me like there are more than one single issue. I can't be certain, but that is my thought. First, it is apparent that you are loosing only uplink according to the timelines, because the data continues to transmit afterwards. Are you still seeing video? If not then there is an issue IMO on the aircraft side. Conversely, the signal losses are mere milliseconds in duration and judging from those, should not be long enough to initiate RTH, although it does initiate after only a few hundred milliseconds each time. It should take a full 2 seconds of uplink loss to initiate RTH. Which makes no sense to me. Not sure if your forward elevator movements are related or not. It does not happen every single time.You can see that in the chart below. I don't think there is much more to be gained from the device logs in this case.

 

[Kueni]

You can see that somewhat in the logs, but the issue is the intermittency. Looking very carefully at the timeline, it looks to me like there are more than one single issue. I can't be certain, but that is my thought. First, it is apparent that you are loosing only uplink according to the timelines, because the data continues to transmit afterwards. Are you still seeing video? If not then there is an issue IMO on the aircraft side. Conversely, the signal losses are mere milliseconds in duration and judging from those, should not be long enough to initiate RTH, although it does initiate after only a few hundred milliseconds each time. It should take a full 2 seconds of uplink loss to initiate RTH. Which makes no sense to me. Not sure if your forward elevator movements are related or not. It does not happen every single time.You can see that in the chart below. I don't think there is much more to be gained from the device logs in this case.


View attachment 102549

So I guess next thing would be to take the drone and RC apart ^^
This might take a while, but I'll report back as soon as I get any news.

 

[Kueni]

(((Kueni here is a post from another forum on phantom pilots to check if your chip is bad)))

I apologize for Google translator.
I hope this post will answer most questions.
Friends. There was a real way to repair the frequent breakdown of the Standard - a weak control signal. I know a lot of Copters with this problem. The problem is in the chip, which switches the control antennas of the copter. By removing the chip and installing a jumper instead, we connect one of the antennas permanently. The second antenna stops working.
Here is a short instruction on what to do.
1. Check the integrity of the chip. To do this, measure with a multimeter whether there is a contact between points 1 or 2 with ground (point 3) in my picture. If point 1 or 2 has contact with the ground, the chip is defective.
2. Remove the chip. I made it with a heating fan and tweezers.
3. Connect the jumper of points 1 and 4. Do not allow jumper and central pad contact under the chip. Do around or above the platform. In my picture there is an insulating film for this.
4. Assemble the copter and enjoy the beautiful work.
Strongly do not recommend doing this yourself, if there is no experience of soldering small parts. Give the master to repair cell phones.
This chip is a primitive switch between antennas. Its elimination does not entail any consequences.
Many of my comrades in the local forum have made such repairs, fly and are happy. I'm including. See my video. The only danger (it is not proved) that without a chip is too strong a signal to the receiver, since the chip absorbed some of the energy. Therefore, one should be careful not to bring the remote close to the copter when it is turned on. At least 1 meter. Especially if the transmitter of the console is amplified or there is a directional antenna.
There is another way to check the chip's malfunction, it's on the video that I posted a couple of pages back.
Turn on the copter, smartphone with the application, turn on and take away remote to get the message "weak control signal". Next, attach any metal object to the point 4 in my picture. The signal should be good. This indicates a malfunction of the chip. The metal object in this case became an antenna bypassing the chip.

@RodPad @Fly Dawg

Update:

So we managed to open up the drone again and tested the chip for malfunction. As you can see in the pictures it seems to fine but apparently if you watch the video you can cleary see how the signal changes after we put a metal objact to pin 4.
At the moment we couldn't check if pin 1 or 2 is grounded as our multimeter hasn't fine enough tips.
But my friend knows someone who could check the pins and even replace the chip with one from our donor board.

 

[Kueni]

@Fly Dawg

We also managed to replace the SD Card and we found out that it still worked, so here I have the .dat file from when it first occured.


MEGA