My compass wasn't working after a crash so I opened up my phantom only to find the compass connector completely broken off. I tried soldering some wire to it but it seems the metal plates that were one the actual PCB were completely ripped off. Is there any way to solder this back together. Or do I have to bite the bullet and buy a hole new board .
Phantom 3 Standard Compass Connector broken
- Thread starter SuhasTheBest
- Start date
you can trace the board to find another spot to wire from. Then glue the connector and run wires to it's lands from points you found. I'm not seeing any markings on the sm parts so you can add them to your circuit if needed. they are probably resistors or diodes. but if you bypass them you need to add your own replacements. I've used them in the past as a solder point. Just be quick and don't overheat.
Haven't pulled my board yet to look at how the traces are.
Haven't pulled my board yet to look at how the traces are.
Thanks for the reply. That's seems almost impossible for me to do. Are there special services or places that cab do such things for less than $100? Or do you think with enough patience I could do it my self? I have medium soldering experience. Thanks
You could try a cell phone repair shop see if they can possibly solder it back
Sent from my SM-T550 using PhantomPilots mobile app
Sent from my SM-T550 using PhantomPilots mobile app
I'll call some places around me Monday. Hopefully someone can and is willing to do it.
Hi, Did you solve your problem ?. I have the same as the Compass connector is broken and the pad ripped off the mainboard. This is really a pity cuz it was just my 2nd time take-off the drone. I live in France so I contacted the local DJI repair serice but have no reply yet. Can anyone suggest me how to repair this ? Thank you
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I was not able to fix it. I just ended up ordering a new board for $100 USD. Hopefully some electronics story can't repair it then I can sell it.
Hi, i have the same problem, but only the red and brown conections are broke, does anyone know an alternative place that i can solder them thank you.
Looks like unrepairable. Normally, on a surface mount PCB, if a pad is gone, the board is toasted. These are multi-layer PCBs, if you don't have the schematics, there is no other way to find an alternative soldering points. Even if you find alternative soldering point, you are talking about soldering a patch wire on anther SMD that has a pin pitch of 0.5mm. I won't feel safe to fly this thing again.
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I have broken the connector and have soldered all these 4 wires, Luckily it works
!!! After that, it doesn't have any problem until now (have flied dozen times with perfect condition).I didn't take picture, but if just the red and brown are broken you can solder the red wire with the capacitor pin and the brown wire with the test pin ( the big circle pin yellow next to the 'C' in "Compass" ). See my picture for more details.
Hope your drone can fly again soon
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Maybe I should of tried it that way when mine did that but I ended up buying a factory refurbished aircraft only cheaper then I could fix mine and so far it's just as good as the other when it was still flying. I make it out past 4000 feet every night looking for deer around the corn fields lol.
Also wish I'd seen this thread when it happened to me that would of probably worked compared to the way I tried it
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I had same issue.
A friend who knows how to do small welding helped by a magnifying glass and with great skill could fix it for me and it works very well.
The finish may not be professional but once the shell was closed the problem was forgotten.
Being the welds are so small it is advisable to seal them with silicone to prevent them from releasing again.
So perhaps there are light at the end of the cave for this problem.
I attach a picture to show the fix.
A friend who knows how to do small welding helped by a magnifying glass and with great skill could fix it for me and it works very well.
The finish may not be professional but once the shell was closed the problem was forgotten.
Being the welds are so small it is advisable to seal them with silicone to prevent them from releasing again.
So perhaps there are light at the end of the cave for this problem.
I attach a picture to show the fix.
Yes I should have stepped down to a thinner wire instead of cutting the plug off and soldering the wire to the board that ended up melting all the traces off the board.
[QUOTEknow "TRUONG, post: 1204360, member: 79327"]I have broken the connector and have soldered all these 4 wires, Luckily it works !!! After that, it doesn't have any problem until now (have flied dozen times with perfect condition).
I didn't take picture, but if just the red and brown are broken you can solder the red wire with the capacitor pin and the brown wire with the test pin ( the big circle pin yellow next to the 'C' in "Compass" ). See my picture for more details.
Hope your drone can fly again soon[/QUOTE]
Can i know what are the each wire purpose?? Because i have to bypass all the 4 wire. Really need the help.
!!! After that, it doesn't have any problem until now (have flied dozen times with perfect condition).I didn't take picture, but if just the red and brown are broken you can solder the red wire with the capacitor pin and the brown wire with the test pin ( the big circle pin yellow next to the 'C' in "Compass" ). See my picture for more details.
Hope your drone can fly again soon[/QUOTE]
Can i know what are the each wire purpose?? Because i have to bypass all the 4 wire. Really need the help.
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if you cant find a local place to get it done I'm willing to do it for you I solder sot23 devices daily by hand so would be easy for me to do even if I hade to epoxy the connector in place and run wire from the connector pins to other points of contact
Sorry im not from USA ... may i know the point of contact ?? Because need to by pass it. Really appreciate your help in future.
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points of contact would be along the PCB traces just ahead of components required for each circuit the coating on PCBs is enamel in most cases it can be scraped away to reveal the copper trace if need be, but in most cases the wires can be soldered to the first component along the trace like the tiny capacitors next to the connector or test pads also at the connector. its always best to use the pads that it was soldered to originally but many times the pads get ripped off the PCB along with the connector. if there is anything left solder to it and use jumpers to make the connections that don't have any pads.
Here the picture of the problem. how about the small point the I2C3_SCL & I2C3_SDA ? is it the compass component port ?
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