P3P crash root cause speed error?
- Thread starter porrascarlos80
- Start date
Yep, that's what I guessed from memory as it is...but back on topic. Use the suggestion for the graphical look. I use Excel when needed but don't find it neccessary with the available exhisting specific analysis tools. Occasionally yes, but as a last resort. IMO.
It wasn't a lost prop - the frequency of the oscillations is too low. Lost props result in periods of around 0.3 seconds - here it's over one second. Plus the OP stated that all props were in place after the crash. I'd look for a motor problem, probably front left based on the resulting attitude change (pitch forwards, roll left, turn CCW) starting at 237 seconds..
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,247
- Reaction score
- 603
- Age
- 86
Indeed there is certainly heavy rolling in there (now that I know what I'm looking at
My first response to OP's comment about a strange noise from one of the motors::Just reading this would make me suspect a prop/motor/ESC failure and FlyDawg confirms this with his amazing analysis of the data logs. If I heard anything out of normal I would not fly until I had thoroughly checked out everything."
Is there a file that shows each motor/ESC behaviour? That would be useful.
Is there tuition somewhere to explain how us mere mortals can produce such graphs and understand them? I think Fly Dawg did explain it to me once but it's gone out of my 80yo head!!
Last edited:
Indeed there is certainly heavy rolling in there (now that I know what I'm looking at
:Just reading this would make me suspect a prop/motor/ESC failure and FlyDawg confirms this with his amazing analysis of the data logs. If I heard anything out of normal I would not fly until I had thoroughly checked out everything."
Is there a file that shows each motor/ESC behaviour? That would be useful.
Is there tuition somewhere to explain how us mere mortals can produce such graphs and understand them? I think Fly Dawg did explain it to me once but it's gone out of my 80yo head!!
There's the DAT file (FLY103.DAT) - that should contain motor data.
RodPad
Premium Pilot
Wow, cool stuff guys!!
I stacked Firewood Sunday and flew a scary mission (Of Coarse)
.
Monday, stacked more Firewood, took a break and a drive in the woods, Beat the heat, etc.
Took every thing needed to fly, just in case...
@porrascarlos80,
Which motor had the grinding noise?
Rod
I stacked Firewood Sunday and flew a scary mission (Of Coarse)
.Monday, stacked more Firewood, took a break and a drive in the woods, Beat the heat, etc.
Took every thing needed to fly, just in case...
@porrascarlos80,
Which motor had the grinding noise?
Rod
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,247
- Reaction score
- 603
- Age
- 86
Is that on the drone memory or where the DJI GO resides, tablet, phone etc?
Those two arm ends are 'not good' to say the least. I have out lined two areas in black in the attached copy of one of your photos. Are the smears within those outlines glue?
If so, I wonder if at least one motor effectively broke loose and is the cause of your crash.
If so, I wonder if at least one motor effectively broke loose and is the cause of your crash.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,247
- Reaction score
- 603
- Age
- 86
Ye Gods, were you flying with those "repairs" to the arms"? The motors attached to those arms would not be vertical and possibly were in contact with the edges causing malfunction or, has been suggested, came lose.
Cheddarman, just incase you literally meant that the motors would not be "vertical", they are not, by design. If you look at your P3 you will probably see they are all canted inline with a tangent. Sacred the ..... out of me the first time I spotted it.
That would be the aircraft file. P3's do not have a device .dat.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,247
- Reaction score
- 603
- Age
- 86
Yes, appreciate that PF. Really meant that the "repair" on those arms are pretty crude and probably don't have the motor in its correct alignment.
Hi experts, thanks for your time invested researched on this one.
As far I know this aircraft didn't have any repair with glue made to the arms. For sure I wont even attempt to do it
.
Now the failure of a motor makes sense because I heard like clash, a prop hitting aircraft fuselage and actually if you see the pictures one side of the aircraft top cover has a hit of what appears a black prop trying to cut it .... not sure if it was on the fall or the root cause. Now I was using firmware 0030, any known defect of that one? and if I upgraded how to roll back?
Fortunately the drone didn't fall on this place :
As far I know this aircraft didn't have any repair with glue made to the arms. For sure I wont even attempt to do it
.Now the failure of a motor makes sense because I heard like clash, a prop hitting aircraft fuselage and actually if you see the pictures one side of the aircraft top cover has a hit of what appears a black prop trying to cut it .... not sure if it was on the fall or the root cause. Now I was using firmware 0030, any known defect of that one? and if I upgraded how to roll back?
Fortunately the drone didn't fall on this place :
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 1,247
- Reaction score
- 603
- Age
- 86
As far I know this aircraft didn't have any repair with glue made to the arms. For sure I wont even attempt to do it
Sorry Parrascarlos80 but these (arrowed) cracks have definitely been repaired with Araldite or similar glue to try to hold them together at some time in the drones life! You can clearly see the yellowish tinge against the white plastic shell and I would suggest that this is the root of your problem, a failure of these repairs allowing the motor to come lose and the propeller impacting against the shell.
We can only go by what we see!
Like the video, pretty place but dangerous if you do get trouble!
Last edited:
Can you post a photo of the mark on the top cover?
Your shell's lower half is beyond repair but they are new shells are available on the likes of Ebay and Amazon....HOWEVER since yours has the motors with coloured screw shafts you need, I think, the older type of shell, see New? Shell Differences .
Perhaps some one can say whether you could use the probably more readily available new type shells.
The actual shell swap is quite easy and if you are prepared to carefully pop the LED board off their mountings and then put blobs of glue on the appropriate points in the new shell to secure the old LED boards you do not need a soldering iron.
There are quite a few youtube videos about opening a phantom 3, watch several to give you an wide-spread impression of techniques, some people post drivel others post gold
Your shell's lower half is beyond repair but they are new shells are available on the likes of Ebay and Amazon....HOWEVER since yours has the motors with coloured screw shafts you need, I think, the older type of shell, see New? Shell Differences .
Perhaps some one can say whether you could use the probably more readily available new type shells.
The actual shell swap is quite easy and if you are prepared to carefully pop the LED board off their mountings and then put blobs of glue on the appropriate points in the new shell to secure the old LED boards you do not need a soldering iron.
There are quite a few youtube videos about opening a phantom 3, watch several to give you an wide-spread impression of techniques, some people post drivel others post gold
Last edited by a moderator:
Similar threads
