Drone ignored pull-back command = crashed

I was in P mode. I should have been in A mode, maybe the P4 would have executed the command.. Well, if I was in A mode, the P4 would not have gotten as close as it did to begin with.. o_O


Yeah, but as you horribly know more then anyone here, is you should BE able to trust the bird in GPS hover mode with AO on, that's a gimme' so, I have to say, in this instance it doesn't sound like the OP did anything incorrectly. I'll also point out he isn't being obnoxious about it or anything, any one of us out our bird on bad deal like this would be PO'd for sure. And I believe him, the only thing that would make it his fault is if he was lying this whole time, and accidentally got discombobulated and hit forward pitch, in this case it seems unlikely.

I hope they help you out, let us know, I didn't see a pic of the bird, I'll have to go back and look.


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You know this one is a lot different, all the guys are mounted in the upper shell, but I had to replace the one on my P3P, I was lucky and only Had to do the top, which was mostly bare in the p3, but a shell replacement is doable, $60 for both halves


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You know this one is a lot different, all the guys are mounted in the upper shell, but I had to replace the one on my P3P, I was lucky and only Had to do the top, which was mostly bare in the p3, but a shell replacement is doable, $60 for both halves

The motor on the damaged arm needs to be replaced, and the forward sensors need to be examined, calibrated or replaced. Other than that, I'm still impressed - when I saw it make a beeline to the brick wall at full-tilt and couldn't communicate with the P4, and heard it collide with the wall, I thought I'd be looking at a puzzle when I found it - but as someone mentioned, the arm only bent to the point of crimping (and the upper shell popping off of it' seam).

Better plastic, better pizza..

and the facts are what they are - like I said, I'd take the blame first if I didn't do a 100% pull-back command and the incident was just me floating into a pole..

I used to play with RC Helicopters before they got all cool with gyroscopes and stabilizers (1989~92) and I have to say, A-Mode is probably my favorite mode to use. I would share that I think most people need to practice A-Mode flight regularly to give them a better understanding of conditional flight situations (just do it in a large field if you're new to it). Not that anyone specifically needs to, I just think it's a good deal of experience to understand how the wind and variable air pressure constantly modifies an aircraft's situation. It will make anyone's P-Mode flights look so much more fluid and controlled. Less incidents means less negative attention to the hobby/profession (and less FAA).

I still haven't heard from DJI about this; that's disappointing. I think some active form of support should be included with the price tag.

Just sayin..
 
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EDIT- (off-topic content removed)

Was meant to be a message, not a topic of discussion. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
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.. as you horribly know more then anyone here, is you should BE able to trust the bird in GPS hover mode with AO on, that's a gimme'

and I have to fully support that statement.

Being that some of the MAJOR selling points of the P4 is OA and Improved GPS; one would only be led to presume that it should work as advertised in at least these areas..
 
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When hovering above a POI (before setting the radius) I often have strange reactions from the quad when I want to slightly adjust the POI. This was yet the case this morning : trying to put the quad back a few centimeters (microscopic input on the stick) the quad goes to the right. Sometimes it goes forward. I had this with my P3P and it is the same with my P4.
Never have any problems with "normal" flights.

Lesson 1 : don't trust OA
Lesson 2 : altitude = safety -> in such cases (the one you experienced) it is better to climb if there is nothing above the quad.

For the DJI support you can wait a long time. The DJI-xxxxx guys seem to give the same answer for everything : "try to calibrate the IMU" !!
 
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For the DJI support you can wait a long time. The DJI-xxxxx guys seem to give the same answer for everything : "try to calibrate the IMU" !!

i've noticed an over use of "Calibrate the IMU" lately as well... "I have a problem with my video feed, the screen is black" "You should try to calibrate the IMU, that will fix it"
o_O
 
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i've noticed an over use of "Calibrate the IMU" lately as well... "I have a problem with my video feed, the screen is black" "You should try to calibrate the IMU, that will fix it"
o_O

From the P2 through the P4 I have never, ever done the IMU. Even through firmware updates. Absolutely not necessary unless there's an issue. Check the values in the app before you fly.
 
From the P2 through the P4 I have never, ever done the IMU. Even through firmware updates. Absolutely not necessary unless there's an issue. Check the values in the app before you fly.

Agreed, but it was in reference to how the DJI forum moderators / support "suggesters" basically answer EVERY issue with "Calibrate the IMU" :)
 
Not that it's worth noting, but phantom13flyer guy, you've been on my ignore list since your accusatory attitude first surfaced - I'm not here for drama and you're not going to get any from me (maybe from others, but not me). The enemy is the accuser, and personal drama and argument have nothing to do with, nor any impact on the facts as they are. I only know you're still at it because of other people's replies and i've gotten a glance at some of your posts from my mobile when i wasn't logged in. I'm sorry you've had a bad experience in the past, but that doesn't give anyone a license to make other's experiences bad - for whatever reason. We are not in this alone. You're either here to be a positive part of a community that helps and inspires each other, or you're here to cause trouble. That's my thoughts for you, and I hope you find whatever reward it is you seek.

- Blessed beyond what I deserve; and so thankful that I don't get what I do deserve..
I refer back to post 19 and 26 from the 1st day this thread was created . Not that the op can see them but I did apologize as soon as I realized you were using the CSC wrong and it caused some confusion . I'm not sure what posts you are referring to but I haven't even looked at this thread since April 30th. Good luck!!


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Not that it's worth noting, but phantom13flyer guy, you've been on my ignore list since your accusatory attitude first surfaced - I'm not here for drama and you're not going to get any from me (maybe from others, but not me). The enemy is the accuser, and personal drama and argument have nothing to do with, nor any impact on the facts as they are. I only know you're still at it because of other people's replies and i've gotten a glance at some of your posts from my mobile when i wasn't logged in. I'm sorry you've had a bad experience in the past, but that doesn't give anyone a license to make other's experiences bad - for whatever reason. We are not in this alone. You're either here to be a positive part of a community that helps and inspires each other, or you're here to cause trouble. That's my thoughts for you, and I hope you find whatever reward it is you seek.

- Blessed beyond what I deserve; and so thankful that I don't get what I do deserve..
Phantom flyer apologized a couple times back on April 30th and I didn't see any more posts after that till today to apologize again. I'm not sure what else you want from this guy but get over yourself bro.


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Earplugs.jpg


Thank you.
 
I think I've read the entire thread and believe theses are correct statements:
  • You stated that you surveyed the site (before or after, I don't know) and found no magnetic interference. Cool.
  • You were flying in P mode, alrighty then.
  • Obstacle avoidance was activated and should be working in P mode, okay.
  • You pulled back on the stick (not both, not the 'CSC' maneuver as you are now aware of). I assume it was the right-hand stick in Mode 2 (so, forward and backward movement with that stick) and that you were not in any intelligent flight modes (PAF lever in F) that would change the stick movements. You state that the stick movement did not work, noted.
Here are some things that I've observed in my flights:
  1. Flying around buildings, especially multiple buildings and taller ones, you can lose GPS and the UAV will then switch to ATTI mode automatically. Someone mentioned this in this thread, but I didn't see any replies. When it switches to ATTI mode, you do not have GPS lock and therefore the craft can drift.
    So if you're a new pilot and haven't had a lot of ATTI mode flying experience, consider that part of the equation. I've spent several missions in large open areas doing nothing more than practicing ATTI flying, take offs and landings, manually stabilizing the craft in windy conditions, etc.
    HOWEVER, the sticks should still work.
  2. Also in ATTI mode (as someone else mentioned): the obstacle avoidance is off. I believe this is a data point that you should consider heavily if I read right, that your craft crashed into a brick wall with obstacle avoidance on.
    AGAIN, the sticks should still work.
  3. Other obstacle avoidance considerations: the lighting conditions, or anything else the DJI mentions hinders the operation of obstacle avoidance. I know there are some gotcha's with the VPS mentioned in the manual, but I don't have a P4 and so haven't read up on obstacle avoidance gotcha's.
  4. No magnetic interference? The clock did not have to have to been emitting magnetic or RF interference to be a problem. All it has to do is contain a lot of metal. Flying around a large object with a lot of metal (as some classic older tower clocks do), it's going to potentially interfere with everything, including communication between your RC and he UAV.
    I can't take off from my picnic table because it's made of metal. I once took a nose dive flying in a park that had a water feature 20ft away that was made entirely of metal.
    So, another equation consideration.
  5. No RF interference? I'm not sure how you determined this and I personally have little experience with it, so I leave this one to someone who can read the logs better than I. But if you pulled back the stick in the proper config and got nothing? I wonder if you happened to notice the RC to UAV signal strength at the time, or if the logs indicate it.
Just some thoughts.
Chris
 
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No way to tell without logs and video but this sounds like classic disorientation. If you're new to flying drones, navigating a clock tower may not be the best idea. It's very easy to get disoriented and accidentally fly it into something. Ask me how I know.
 
If the craft was in P mode and somehow Course Lock intelligent flight mode was enabled unintentionally, and the pilot didn't fully understand course lock, this may have been the cause of this incident. However we need the log file to determine.
 
No way to tell without logs and video but this sounds like classic disorientation. If you're new to flying drones, navigating a clock tower may not be the best idea. It's very easy to get disoriented and accidentally fly it into something. Ask me how I know.

I'll bite. I'm sure we can all learn something from your experience.
 
So the OP is not telling us everything...

I went to google maps, and there is a transformer right near where he is flying and power-lines

Click here: Google Maps

Location2.jpg


Also this is the clock... this is not what I was thinking of when you said "town clock" More a clock in a building.

Clock.JPG


However, I have uploaded the logs to healthydrones and the signal map shows no lack of signal, infact it has great signal.

signal.JPG


Your only flying 2 meters off the ground, you have trees and power-lines over head..... I think a simple point and click camera would have been more suitable.

However, After all the facts have been laid out, I suspect what happened here was user confusion with orientation and lack of experience.

If there was interference, then it certainly would have been from the powerlines! I mean seriously? Why are you even flying there?
 
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I truly appreciate that some (most) of you guys are looking at this as the puzzle it is; the ones that are just quick to blame me for it weren't there, so I can't blame them for thinking it - but I would like to assure everyone here that this wasn't operator error, disorientation or insane circumstances. The scene could have very easily been a video shot of a wedding party at this location, with serious injuries and potentially a lawsuit with damages.

I encourage anyone that is even thinking of, or already in the process of using their P4 professionally to get both UAV insurance and Pilots Insurance. Anything can happen, and it doesn't have to be your fault, it just has to look like it is and you and the entire public view of UAV's are in big trouble.

I really hope this comes across as just that, a puzzle to be solved, and not the rants of some idiot with a fat wallet and time to waste. I'm trying to maintain an objective outlook on the puzzle and not get sucked into any drama, let me know if I do - I hate drama.

No RF interference? I'm not sure how you determined this and I personally have little experience with it, so I leave this one to someone who can read the logs better than I. But if you pulled back the stick in the proper config and got nothing? I wonder if you happened to notice the RC to UAV signal strength at the time, or if the logs indicate it.

Many people are askign for the logs, the logs are posted in the thread back there somewhere, not sure what to do with them past uploading them.

I should at least qualify myself in the RF department for future reference and questions about RFI:

I'm a FCC licensed radio operator (Old School, I know) in where I learned a great deal about Radio Frequency and Radio Electronics, which happened to be part of what introduced me to RC Helicopters and Cars. I am fortunately blessed with equipment that can tell me what frequencies are dominant at any given measuring point, and what the signal strength of any readings strong enough to cause any type of interference. I measure with the controller & UAV off, as it will detect their signals if I don't. It's a trick that is in use today by many professionals and other industries and now part of my PF Check. To quote someone here, "Still, the sticks should work." ; the only possible "reason" I can think of that makes sense for a "pull-back" NOT to work is RFI.

You mentioned that you can't do a VTOL off a metal picnic table, yet I use them in my VTOL exercises.

I spend a good deal of time in my neighborhood park doing control drill and flight control tricks, like VTOL's from an all-metal picnic table in A-mode. They have a perforated surface which nicely reduces down-wash by a small percentage. I even have done some video recordings of these exercises, but since they aren't really exciting, I may have tossed the footage. I'd be glad roll some video the next time I do the exercises. VTOL's from metal table to metal table, target landing, tight-area maneuvers (in, through, and under the playground equipment - which is built out of metal and plastic), 24" AGL tracking and FPV piloting, "Satellite POV" flight (camera pointed down) - ect.. I was planning on making some dumb you-tube videos of them, but who wants to watch that? Nowhere near a pro like those helicopter tricksters, but I've made sure I was confident that the craft could handle the scene flight path at 1MPh. The sticks should still work. That's going to be my new tagline here..

I enjoy challenges and I also needed to be able to trust that the P4 would tolerate sharing space with metallic objects before going out to do some video scenes for someone's family picnic. Not that I was actually booked for such, it was a mindset exercise, with my intentions to use the P4 professionally in the near future. Had this happened at a wedding, for instance, and the P4 would not respond to the controller, run into some fancy wedding decor and shoot full-tilt after the bride and groom, it would have been on the news. DJI would not want people knowing that their products have the potential to drop radio control randomly.

However, After all the facts have been laid out, I suspect what happened here was user confusion with orientation and lack of experience. If there was interference, then it certainly would have been from the powerlines! I mean seriously? Why are you even flying there?

Nice photos, and I appreciate that you've taken time to think this through. I know, most people would think exactly that - POWER LINES!! OMG, right?

I know a bit about electrical too, after enduring 2 years of working with the IBEW, where I came to understand that I don't fit in the Electrical Union simply because I don't hate my life, and a lot about the properties of live electrical industrial equipment, lines and systems. Many videos out there show and support that power lines are generally harmless objects unless you're out of range to compete with a 60hz signal or out of control. Some videos show UAV's getting snatched by lines, that's not "in-control" in anyone's book.

I've flewn over and under lines successfully many times, slowly and with great caution - always keeping a safe distance and sharp focus on my flight path - near impossible to avoid, so perfect practice makes perfect, right? I've never gotten even close to the red circles you've noted on the photo, that's too close and not safe, so good ilustration! I don't recommend or condone the intentional practice of making flight plans that include power lines, but just the same, if you live, play or work near any, then you won't be able to avoid learning how to NOT hit them.. I wouldn't dare to fly near or through a stack of lines, high-tension* lines or switch-yards* (*illegal without permits) unless I was contracted by the electric company to do it, and I was getting paid at least double what it costs to replace the UAV, pay the insurance deductible, and repair whatever potential collateral damage that might happen as a result of any incident. Local, 3&4 phase, single stack power lines should only pose a threat if you come into contact with them. If you live in the city, it's your landscape, so train and become an expert at navigating those vertically challenged eyesores.

Flying slowly, safely and cautiously under one set of power lines shouldn't have an effect on communications, unless you've flown far enough to weaken the signal to the point of easy RF "pollution". Staying close to your UAV ensures the controller has the dominant signal at all times. When you can't be with your UAV, don't do it unless you have no other option - in fact, if you don't have the confidence and control practice, it's time to land and fetch. Slow, safe & controlled is the only way to go when it comes to power lines; they teach you that at the electrical school and on the field.

Let's look at the clock-photo (article II). Not some crazy situation that one would be too concerned, like flying around a water-tower or doing an inner-city flight. Just a park, a clock and sure, power lines that were not directly over the flight path. The trees foliage did not encroach the circular concrete pad much at all, this photo has the illusion that there is a lot of foliage in the way, but it's a clear flight bubble of about 60' in diameter around the clock. Article III shows that the flight path did not go directly under the power lines. The incident started (I would estimate by the car sizes) more than 20' Vertically away from the power lines, not even close enough to corrupt a weak WiFi router signal.

I've logically ruled out power line "interference", anyone that poses statements otherwise haven't seen the many videos of people doing it.

That being the case, my focus is mainly on the possibility of the clock emitting a signal that "called" the P4 somehow. It would explain the P4's behavior, or at least give a solid reason for the controllers signal that was only 10' away to be ignored by an overpowering signal. I imagined that it would be possible that the park installed some WiFi device in the clock to make setting the time a matter of a computer command from a nearby laptop. Maybe public WiFi?

That hypotheses didn't pan out - no detectable signals.

Since the flight was relatively close to eye level and slightly overhead by only a few feet at the most, and where I was with the P4 the whole time ("walking it"), putting the controller less than 15' Vertically distanced at the most. There's no plausible circumstance that I can conjure to explain why the P4 did what it did, or more accurately, didn't do what I told it to do. RFI is even highly questionable at that close range, which is why I took RFI and Magnetic measurements AT and AROUND the clock. As the clock was the only thing that was closer to the P4 than the controller was - I had to see if it was emitting a signal that somehow caused a connection failure. I couldn't find any detectable signals, so I'm left with the most logical answer, the P4 ignored a stick-command and the incident took place. That makes me VERY nervous to even THINK about using the P4 professionally.

Orientation.. The P4 was facing the clock before I started the flight plan for the scene I wanted, I was facing the clock as well, standing about 3' to the left of the UAV, the tall bush was to its right, about the same distance and the craft was still and ready. I started the scene, the P4 took it from there. There's a few small prop marks that I'm going to buff-out. o_O

At this point, I'm going to have to let a DJI tech analyze the data and flight video; they have a motor and shell casing to replace; unless they want a defective product out there to make them look randomly dangerous.

Yes, they are potentially dangerous, I'll tell anyone that all day - but "Randomly Dangerous" is far worse a thought.

Let the arjous journey of navigating tech support and warranty reps begin.. (i'm good at that too.. lol..)

I'll naturally keep this thread updated with DJI's considerations and resolution.

As for now, I have to get some work done - This puzzle isn't going to be solved without an MIT RF Programmer looking at it. LOL...
 
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but I would like to assure everyone here that this wasn't operator error, disorientation or insane circumstances.

How do you know? It's the most common form of crash.

You mentioned that you can't do a VTOL off a metal picnic table, yet I use them in my VTOL exercises.

Good luck with that. Taking off from ferrous (magnetic) material like metal tables, car roofs, etc. can cause the compass to provide erratic and incorrect readings.

As for interference, RF will not cause anything other than a loss of communication and RTH. It will never cause erratic flight of the drone. However, EMI at strong enough levels WILL cause the compass to provide incorrect results. I've seen when within 100ft of high voltage regional power lines. Local power lines like the ones pictured are not strong enough to be a problem (unless you hit them).
 

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