> The quick start guide that comes with your Phantom is very limited. Be sure to download the latest
user manual from the "DOWNLOADS" link for your model. Read the manual several times
before you fly, and then a few more times
after you've flown for the first time when it will make a bit more sense to you. Other than the user manual, the download pages also include other valuable information and downloads.
[P3P Downloads Page] [P3A Downloads Page]. You will also find links to the DJI apps on the download page.
Note: If you see the "For Your Attention" pop up from DJI telling you that the P3P or P3A is no longer in production, just close the pop up. If you don't see the links to manuals on the right side of that page, try these links:
P3P User Manual -
P3A User Manual
> Just because the app tells you that a FW (firmware) update is available, that doesn't mean you
must do the update immediately. I strongly suggest that you check out and become comfortable with your P3 and what "normal" looks like
before changing any FW on the RC (remote control) or the AC (aircraft). [See my reasons
here, but like most things it's
YOUR decision]
(
Important Note: if your P3 comes with 1.5 on the AC, you
should move from that version. 1.5+ is
not 1.5. It is a later version than 1.5).
> While you are looking through the app screens, be sure
write down which FW versions you have on your AC and your RC. Always do this
before you make any changes. You'd be amazed how many people have no clue which versions they have and that makes it more difficult to troubleshoot in case you have issues.
> So many threads have started with,
"It was working perfectly, then I changed [ FW, App, Settings, etc ] and now it doesn't work." It always seems to be right before a
big job or a
vacation. If it's working perfectly already, why risk making changes right before a critical need? Make an informed decision if waiting until
after the critical need would be a more prudent time for you to make major changes.
> Important note: Make sure you understand the changes related to
AC FW 1.11.20. It was released in July 2017 and introduced
forced flight restrictions similar to beginner mode if you haven't "registered" your app with DJI. Click
here for more info. Also, DJI had been officially providing a new FW version to select users who say they saw ESC issues after the update to 1.11.20. They were providing a tweaked version (
1.11.30) on a case by case basis, and now
it seems that DJI has been using v1.11.30 when refurbishing units and not letting buyers know about it being installed. If you buy a refurb it may come with v1.11.30 already installed.
> If you've already done your research, already written down your current FW versions, already read the
release notes and you've made an informed
choice to update your FW,
click here and follow those steps closely. [Release notes are here:
P3P release notes and
P3A release notes].
> If you choose to update your FW,
use a house fan of some type to blow across the gimbal. This will help keep the gimbal main board cooler since it is known to overheat during updates. The P3P is more susceptible to overheating during updates than the P3A, but I use a fan with both. FYI - this tip about using a fan is also mentioned in the FW
install instructions. [Note - also use a house fan if you are using the simulator which requires the AC to be powered on due to some settings stored only in the AC.]
> If you choose to update your FW, don't forget to check your settings after the update.
Some settings may revert to default values. Also, some settings are stored on the P3 and
not in the app so check settings while
connected to your P3.
> The FW version on your AC does
not have to be the same version number as the FW on your RC.
> AC FW 1.8 and RC FW 1.6 were released together with an encryption change. If you have one (or later), you
must have the other (or later) or you will have issues. DJI also noted this in the release notes, but even so we have seen several people here who were not aware and inadvertently created an encryption mismatch.
> The firmware bin file for a P3P begins with
P3X. The firmware bin file for a P3A begins with
P3S. Using a "P3S" file name for the P3A firmware started before the Phantom Standard was released.
> DJI has historically maintained an archive of FW versions on their site even though they don't always show links to them. For
archived FW versions directly from DJI, follow the links in
this post.
> There are
many outdated YouTube tutorial videos demonstrating old procedures, especially how to update FW. For example, using a USB stick to update your RC has
not been the correct process for quite some time. That process was changed back in Q3 of 2015 with FW 1.3.2 for 300B/300C RCs and 1.4.1 for 300A RCs. Try to watch only the most recent videos you can find to avoid causing issues and frustration.
> DJI Assistant software is
not compatible with the P3 series.
> On your mobile device, disable auto updating for the GO app. This way you can read about any changes or issues that may have been introduced in a new version and decide for yourself when or if to update the app. This is especially important with iOS devices since it is not as easy to revert to older app versions on iOS as it is on Android. [Note: DJI has recently started trying to force users to update to the latest app. You may see a message box appear telling you to update even if you have auto updates disabled.]
> For those of you in the US, use
ONLY the
official FAA web site to register.
Don't be fooled by web sites that will charge you an extra fee to register. These sites are not affiliated with the FAA. Also, if you are a hobbyist you are registering
yourself and
not each individual drone.
Once registered, you simply use the same registration number with all of your drones.
> The
motors on a P3 are
slightly tilted by design to help with stability and to help avoid issues when descending.
> When Beginner Mode is
enabled, the motors
will not start without a good GPS lock. When Beginner Mode is
disabled, the motors
will start with no GPS lock but with no GPS lock you will be in
ATTI mode so
be ready for your AC to
drift with the wind.
> Practice ATTI mode on a regular basis in a large open area so that you are familiar with that mode and have the skills needed when the time arises.
> Do not use the CSC to stop your motors once you've landed. CSC is known to cause flip overs. Only use left stick down for three seconds to stop your motors. (Note: Use CSC to stop your motors in an emergency, but know that if you are in the air it will cause your P3 to crash!).
> Keep in mind that if your P3 is sitting on the ground and you
don't stop the motors, it may still try to level itself if the terrain is not flat or if the wind is blowing. This can lead to a tip over. If you are not intending to launch again immediately, it's safer to stop the motors if your P3 is on the ground.
> Full left stick down while descending will not stop your motors while in the air. (
This is one of the most often asked questions).
> The video signal and the control signal are not the same. You can lose your FPV video but
still have control. RTH is
not triggered by losing
only your video signal. If you see the green LED lit on your RC, you can still control your P3 even if you've lost the video feed. [If you are within range, you can even remove, reboot, or turn off your mobile device and still have control of your AC. Think about practicing this scenario. Edit - as noted above, the release of AC FW 1.11.20 in July 2017 introduced forced flight restrictions similar to beginner mode if you haven't "registered" your app with DJI. Click
here for more info. Due to this change, if you've
chosen to install FW 1.11.20 or later, you
may be limited in distance if you try to fly
without your mobile device.]
> Read
this post for information about
compass calibrations. It is an older post that was updated when the P3 was released.
In a nutshell, you do not need to calibrate before every flight.
Once you have a good calibration, just leave it alone. If you get compass errors, it normally does
not mean you should re-calibrate. Just move to a less magnetically influenced area. Click
here for info about a bad calibration and an interesting video demo. Personally, I rarely calibrate my compass, but I do check the mod values before every flight to be sure they are between 1400 and 1600. Before launch, you can also check that the heading indicator in the GO app map display is the same as what you can see visually when you look at your Phantom.
> Try the different
RTH modes so that you know what to expect
before the need arises.
> When
RTH is initiated, the Phantom will
not descend to your preset altitude if it is already
above your preset RTH altitude. (
This is one of the most often asked questions).
> If RTH is initiated when your P3 is within 20 meters of your set home point, your P3 will land in it's current location and will
not return to the home point. This is by design, though most here question why this makes sense to DJI. The manual does note this, but many people miss it.
> The Phantom considers it's take off location to be zero altitude. It roughly calculates altitude changes by barometric pressure relative to the take-off location pressure. It is
not aware of surrounding terrain or any elevation changes of the surrounding terrain.
You must be aware. Not planning for elevation changes has been a common mistake during waypoint missions often causing impacts with trees or other obstacles.
> If you fly below your take off altitude, the app will simply show a
negative altitude. If RTH is initiated while you are at a negative altitude, your P3 will still ascend to your preset RTH altitude
above the original take-off altitude.
> Do not assume that the P3 will tighten your props automatically. Just loosely spinning on the props is not enough. The ESCs are designed with “active braking” to rapidly decelerate the motors. The resulting inertia may be enough to spin OFF a prop if you have not adequately tightened the props before flight.
Check your props prior to every flight. Props
can and
have flown off during flight, so don't be the next crash victim who says, "I thought they were self tightening!"
> We routinely advise against using metal thread props on P3 model ACs due to the deceleration during active braking noted above. My suggestion is to stick with DJI brand props with nylon threads.
> Be careful how you orient your antennas. Check out
this video for tips. Summary is that the antenna should be pointed up, roughly parallel to the
legs on the bird's landing gear as much as possible, and with the wider (flat) side
facing the AC. Do
not point the RC antenna straight out unless the bird is
directly overhead which by the way is
not a good place for it to be. Note: The AC's legs contain it's antennas.
> The "
Enable Max Distance" option in the app is used to set a distance
limit.
Leave this option disabled to fly the maximum distance. Only enable this option if you want to set a max distance
limit of up to 500M. [Note - I've always thought this option was poorly named. I think "
Enable Distance Limit" would be more intuitive.]
> Maps are
not required to fly, though many find them useful. If you choose to use maps in the field, you will either need Internet access in the field, or
cache the maps in advance.
> GPS satellites do
not download map data!
> Your Phantom
normally has its own GPS to know where home is located.
> Your P3's GPS module is attached inside of the top shell.
When you pick up your P3 from the top, your hand will block the GPS signal. If it's connected, the app will let you know verbally and with an on screen warning. This is normal and all will be fine once you move your hand.
> Follow Me mode will
not work if your mobile device does not have it's own GPS or is not connected to an external GPS device. Most Android devices already have internal GPS, so they are
usually fine. With iPads, only the cellular versions have GPS and a data plan is
NOT required. [Tethering an iPad does not transmit GPS data for Follow Me to function.
Click here for more info on what to expect with different iPads / situations.
Click here for a list of compatible Apple devices.]
> You have very little chance of recovering from a CSC (with a P3) while in flight even if you are at a high enough altitude and even if you have done it in the simulator. [If you try this, please do so away from people and please record it so we can see the crash.]
> Don't forget to remove the small piece of foam that is often behind the gimbal on new P3s. Many people have not noticed it. Leaving it on will cause shaky video and
could damage your gimbal. One user didn't notice it for a full year!
> You only need to have 2 of the anti-drop pins (
inside the white vibration dampeners) installed on the gimbal. Many people put loosely fitted plastic zip ties in the two holes that come empty when the P3 is new.
> Yes, P3S batteries will work with a P3P and P3A.
> No, a P3S RC will
not work with a P3P or a P3A.
> The
P34k model gimbal/camera is
not compatible with a P3P or a P3A. Your P3P/P3A may be damaged if you try to use a P34k gimbal/camera. Sadly, several people
have found this out the hard way.
Here are more examples in a forum search. If you need to replace your P3P gimbal/camera or you just want to convert your P3A to a P3P, use
only a
P3P gimbal/camera.
> Make sure that your battery is
fully seated and locked into place before powering on your AC. We have had reports of batteries which were
not fully seated actually sliding out enough to lose data and even lose power in some instances. [Most reports were the first couple of months after the P3 was released, but it is still a good habit to always check]. This potential for catastrophe was
finally corrected with the
P4P-V2 which has a sensor to detect a partially inserted battery, but the P3 models are still susceptible so please double check!
> Fully charge your batteries before going out to fly. Don't begin your day with partially charged batteries. Too many people have said, "I was only planning a short flight and thought it would be enough," followed by something like, "it went to critical and now I don't know where it landed," or "and then it landed in the lake."
> The
battery button serves several purposes.
Double press (press, release, press and hold) to power on the battery.
Press once and release to check the current level of charge.
Press once and hold for a full 5 seconds to check the remaining
battery life.
> If the battery level is already above ~95% when you plug it in, charging will not begin. To top off above 95%, power the battery on (out of P3)
before plugging it in to charge. Then it will charge to 100%.
> If you set your batteries to auto discharge after a certain number of days, they will only
start to auto discharge on that day. It could then take 2-3 days for them to discharge down to ~65%
after they
start discharging. If you press the battery button at anytime, the battery will
stop discharging and the day counter will be
reset. Note that the battery will become slightly warm when it is auto discharging.
> If you plan to
store your batteries for a while, click
here for one example of how to do so safely.
> If you do an
RC calibration, don't overlook the
scroll wheels or the calibration will
not complete. FYI - an RC calibration is often what cures a beeping RC.
> The camera lens cover / UV filter is often difficult to unscrew for removal. It's best to use a very light grip as you turn it. Many use a rubber band or a latex glove to assist, but still always keeping a very light grip. Others have had luck with the prop removal tool. I use a rubber band.
> In the
GO app, the
maximum flight altitude setting and the
RTH altitude always show in meters and can't be changed to feet no matter what preference you set in the app. Keep this in mind when you are setting your altitudes prior to flight.
> If for some reason you need to reinstall the GO app, your flight records will be lost when you delete the app. If you want to
save your flight records, sync to the DJI cloud
first and
then delete the app. Once you've reinstalled the app, sync again and your flight records will be restored.
> You can use the same GO app with multiple P3 drones even if they are different models.
> The P3 splits video files at ~4GB. There are no workarounds
regardless of formatting as either FAT32 or exFAT. The P3 will
still split video files at ~4GB
even though the exFat format itself allows larger files.
> The media recorded on your mobile device is low resolution. Use
only the media from your SD card if you want the highest quality.
> Many of us choose to use multiple
lower density cards (16GB / 32GB for <4k -or- 32GB / 64GB for 4k) and switch them out with every battery change. This way, should the worst happen and you lose your AC you wont also lose a lot of work that could be on a larger card left in the AC through several battery changes.
> You can
not take a still photo if you are currently recording video.
> If your FPV (and also pix/videos) are
consistently dark (underexposed) or bright (overexposed), check to see that you haven't set the
EV (exposure compensation) to something too negative or too positive. Try to keep it at -0- as much as possible.
> You can start up your P3 without props, but the motors will automatically shut down after a few seconds.
> Consider placing a small "If found" txt file on your SD card which could contain contact information.
> If you use
prop guards, be careful with the
screws. If they are too long, you can damage the motor. Many people have accidentally done this when they remove prop guards and then
reinsert the longer screws which then
damage the motor windings. People think that if they spin motors to check for free movement that all is good to go. In fact, the motor housing spins but the windings are static and the windings are what gets damaged.
> Consider the pros and cons of using a tracking device attached to your Phantom. Some commonly used devices are
listed here. The dramatic drop in value of the P3 line may now make a tracker less attractive unless you plan to also use it with newer and more expensive drone models. You'll need to decide for yourself if the cost of a tracker is worth it to you. Full disclosure: I have never used a tracker myself.
> FCC or CE specs are automatically set based on your current GPS location as reported by your P3's GPS. This is not something you can change (
officially) with a setting in the app or with a switch on your RC.
> Bookmark this post to locate it quickly at a later time.
> Also,
search the forum for the
many other "
any tips?" threads for more great info.
Good luck!
August 15, 2016 EDIT - Consolidated a few of my "any tips" posts from the past so that I can link to this one the next time someone asks.
