Soon to be new owner phantom 3 advanced

msinger

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Is it fixable or the shell needs replacement again?
You'll definitely need to replace the shell to fix those cracks. I wouldn't recommend flying it like that for too long since the motor mounts inside of the shell could also be cracked (which could eventually lead to the motor falling out of the shell).

A new P3A shell is currently going for about $69. You can buy one here on Amazon or here on eBay.
 

Mark The Droner

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Personally, I'd be sure to get an adequate discount for the crack. Then, I'd remove the screw and shove some plasti-aid into the crack. Let it dry, replace the screw. With time you may have to replace the shell. MHO
 

Mark The Droner

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I would not pay that. I got my refurbished P3P (which looks absolutely brand new) for $539 and it included a full DJI warranty!

That was a great Labor Day deal from Newegg and you probably won't find that. But look at msinger's link in his sig. There are some deals in there!
 
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Unfortunately these offers are only available in US. I am in Europe and I cannot find these prices..:(
I am thinking to buy a P3 Standard to have warranty but all say to stay away from it..
 
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Unfortunately these offers are only available in US. I am in Europe and I cannot find these prices..:(
I am thinking to buy a P3 Standard to have warranty but all say to stay away from it..
Correct, don't buy the P3s, it uses Wi-Fi for communications. You don't want that, believe me. That cracked P3A would fly fine if you installed the STRONG ARM brackets that relieve most of the stress from the individual motor mounts. The company selling them is uavbits.net. but at some point you may need to get a new shell. Strong arms work great.

Strong Arm Reinforcement Plates
 
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Thanks i might go for it since it includes extra battery and hard case. i hope the arm brackets will hold it for some time.
 
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Eventually i ordered a Phantom 4...it was on sale for 725€ (without tax) with one extra battery so i think it is a good deal in my country. all the used p3a/p are 500€ and up so i think i made a good choice. Don't know..time will tell! now i must go to p4 forum and read a lot stuff..!
 
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> The quick start guide that comes with your Phantom is very limited. Be sure to download the latest user manual from the "DOWNLOADS" link for your model. Read the manual several times before you fly, and then a few more times after you've flown for the first time when it will make a bit more sense to you. [P3P Downloads Page] [P3A Downloads Page]
>
Just because the app tells you that a FW update is available, that doesn't mean you must do the update immediately. I strongly suggest that you check out and become comfortable with your P3 and what "normal" looks like before changing any FW on the RC (remote control) or the AC (aircraft). [See my reasons here, but like most things it's YOUR decision]
(Important Note: if your P3 comes with 1.5 on the AC, you should move from that version. 1.5+ is not 1.5. It is a later version than 1.5).
> If you've already done your research, already read the release notes and you've made an informed choice to update your FW, click here and follow those steps closely. [Release notes are here: P3P release notes and P3A release notes]
> If you update your FW, use a house fan of some type to blow across the gimbal. This will help keep the gimbal main board cooler since it is known to overheat during updates. The P3P is more susceptible to overheating during updates than the P3A, but I use a fan with both. FYI - this tip about using a fan is also mentioned in the FW install instructions.
> If you update your FW, don't forget to check your settings after the update. Some settings may revert to default values. Also, some settings are stored on the P3 and not in the app so check settings while connected to your P3.
> The FW version on your AC does not have to be the same version number as the FW on your RC.
> AC FW 1.8 and RC FW 1.6 were released together with an encryption change. If you have one (or later), you must have the other (or later) or you will have issues. DJI also noted this in the release notes, but even so we have seen several people here who were not aware and inadvertently created an encryption mismatch.
> The firmware bin file for a P3P begins with P3X. The firmware bin file for a P3A begins with P3S. Using a "P3S" file name for the P3A firmware started before the Phantom Standard was released.
> DJI has historically maintained an archive of FW versions on their site even though they don't always show links to them. For archived FW versions directly from DJI, follow the links in this post.
> There are many outdated YouTube tutorial videos demonstrating old procedures, especially how to update FW. For example, using a USB stick to update your RC has not been the correct process for quite some time. That process was changed back in Q3 of 2015 with FW 1.3.2. Try to watch only the most recent videos you can find to avoid causing issues and frustration.
> On your mobile device, disable auto updating for the GO app. This way you can read about any changes or issues that may have been introduced in a new version and decide for yourself when or if to update the app. This is especially important with iOS devices since it is not as easy to revert to older app versions on iOS as it is on Android. [Note: DJI has recently started trying to force users to update to the latest app. You may see a message box appear telling you to update even if you have auto updates disabled.]
> Do not use the CSC to stop your motors once you've landed. CSC is known to cause flip overs. Only use left stick down for three seconds to stop your motors. (Note: Use CSC to stop your motors in an emergency, but know that if you are in the air it will cause your P3 to crash!)
> Full left stick down while descending will not stop your motors while in the air. (This is one of the most often asked questions).
> The video signal and the control signal are not the same. You can lose your FPV video but still have control. RTH is not triggered by losing only your video signal. If you see the green LED lit on your RC, you can still control your P3 even if you've lost the video feed. [If you are within range, you can even remove, reboot, or turn off your mobile device and still have control of your AC. Think about practicing this scenario. Edit - the release of AC FW 1.11.20 in July 2017 introduced forced flight restrictions similar to beginner mode if you haven't "registered" your app with DJI. Click here for more info. Due to this change, if you've chosen to install FW 1.11.20 or later, you will likely be limited in distance if you try to fly without your mobile device.]
> Read this post for great information about compass calibrations. It is a terrific older post that was updated when the P3 was released. In a nutshell, you do not need to calibrate before every flight. It is in fact possible to get a "successful" calibration in a bad (magnetically influenced) location. Then when you launch, you move away from the bad location and your P3 flies erratically. Personally, I rarely calibrate my compass, but I do check the mod values before every flight to be sure they are between 1400 and 1600. Before launch, you can also check that the heading indicator in the GO app map display is the same as what you can see visually when you look at your Phantom.
> Try the different RTH modes so that you know what to expect before the need arises.
> When RTH is initiated, the Phantom will not descend to your preset altitude if it is already above your preset RTH altitude. (This is one of the most often asked questions).
> If RTH is initiated when your P3 is within 20 meters of your set home point, your P3 will land in it's current location and will not return to the home point. This is by design, though most here question why this makes sense to DJI. The manual does note this, but many people miss it.
> The Phantom considers it's take off location to be zero altitude. It roughly calculates altitude changes by barometric pressure relative to the take-off location pressure. It is not aware of surrounding terrain or any elevation changes of the surrounding terrain. You must be aware.
> Do not assume that the P3 will tighten your props automatically. Check your props prior to every flight. Props can and have flown off during flight, so don't be the next crash victim who says, "I thought they were self tightening!"
> Be careful how you orient your antennas. Check out this video for tips. Summary is that the antenna should be pointed up, roughly parallel to the legs on the bird's landing gear as much as possible, and with the wider (flat) side facing the AC. Do not point the RC antenna straight out unless the bird is directly overhead which by the way is not a good place for it to be. Note: The AC's legs contain it's antennas.
> The "Enable Max Distance" option in the app is used to set a distance limit. Leave this option disabled to fly the maximum distance. Only enable this option if you want to set a max distance limit. [Note - I've always thought this option was poorly named. I think "Enable Distance Limit" would be more intuitive.]
> Maps are not required to fly, though many find them useful. If you choose to use maps in the field, you will either need Internet access in the field, or cache the maps in advance.
> GPS satellites do not download map data!
> Your Phantom normally has its own GPS to know where home is located.
> Follow Me mode will not work if your mobile device does not have it's own GPS or is not connected to an external GPS device. Most Android devices already have internal GPS, so they are usually fine. With iPads, only the cellular versions have GPS and a data plan is NOT required. [Tethering an iPad does not transmit GPS data for Follow Me to function. Click here for more info on what to expect with different iPads / situations. Click here for a list of compatible Apple devices.]
> You have very little chance of recovering from a CSC (with a P3) while in flight even if you are at a high enough altitude and even if you have done it in the simulator. [If you try this, please do so away from people and please record it so we can see the crash.]
> Don't forget to remove the small piece of foam that is often behind the gimbal on new P3s. Many people have not noticed it. Leaving it on will cause shaky video and could damage your gimbal. One user didn't notice it for a full year!
> You only need to have 2 of the anti-drop pins (inside the white vibration dampeners) installed on the gimbal. Many people put loosely fitted plastic zip ties in the two holes that come empty when the P3 is new.
> Yes, P3S batteries will work with a P3P and P3A.
> No, a P3S RC will not work with a P3P or a P3A.
> Make sure that your battery is fully seated and locked into place before powering on your AC. We have had reports of batteries which were not fully seated actually sliding out enough to lose data and even lose power in some instances. [Most reports were the first couple of months after the P3 was released, but it is still a good habit to always check]
> Fully charge your batteries before going out to fly. Don't begin your day with partially charged batteries. Too many people have said, "I was only planning a short flight and thought it would be enough," followed by something like, "it went to critical and now I don't know where it landed," or "and then it landed in the lake."
> If the battery level is already above ~95% when you plug it in, charging will not begin. To top off above 95%, power the battery on (out of P3) before plugging it in to charge. Then it will charge to 100%.
> If you set your batteries to auto discharge after a certain number of days, they will only start to auto discharge on that day. It could then take 2-3 days for them to discharge down to ~65% after they start discharging. If you press the battery button at anytime, the battery will stop discharging and the day counter will be reset.
> If you do an RC calibration, don't overlook the scroll wheels or the calibration will not complete. FYI - an RC calibration is often what cures a beeping RC.
> The camera lens cover / UV filter is often difficult to unscrew for removal. It's best to use a very light grip as you turn it. Many use a rubber band or a latex glove to assist, but still always keeping a very light grip. Others have had luck with the prop removal tool. I use a rubber band.
> In the GO app, the maximum flight altitude setting and the RTH altitude always show in meters and can't be changed to feet no matter what preference you set in the app. Keep this in mind when you are setting your altitudes prior to flight.
> If for some reason you need to reinstall the GO app, your flight records will be lost when you delete the app. If you want to save your flight records, sync to the DJI cloud first and then delete the app. Once you've reinstalled the app, sync again and your flight records will be restored.
> You can use the same GO app with multiple P3 drones even if they are different models.
> The P3 splits video files at ~4GB. There are no workarounds regardless of formatting as either FAT32 or exFAT. The P3 will still split video files at ~4GB even though the exFat format itself allows larger files.
> The media recorded on your mobile device is low resolution. Use only the media from your SD card if you want the highest quality.
> You can not take a still photo if you are currently recording video.
> Practice ATTI mode on a regular basis in a large open area so that you are familiar with that mode and have the skills needed when the time arises.
> So many threads have started with, "It was working perfectly, then I changed [FW, App, Settings, etc] and now it doesn't work." It always seems to be right before a big job or a vacation. If it's working perfectly already, why risk making changes right before a critical need?
> The P34k model gimbal/camera is not compatible with a P3P or a P3A. If you need to replace your P3P gimbal/camera or you just want to convert your P3A to a P3P, use only a P3P gimbal/camera if you desire 4k.
> Consider placing a small "If found" txt file on your SD card which could contain contact information.
> If you use prop guards, be careful with the screws. If they are too long, you can damage the motor. Many people have accidentally done this when they remove prop guards and then reinsert the longer screws which then damage the motor windings.
> Consider the pros and cons of using a tracking device attached to your Phantom. Some commonly used devices are listed here. The dramatic drop in value of the P3 line may now make a tracker less attractive unless you plan to also use it with newer and more expensive drone models. You'll need to decide for yourself if the cost of a tracker is worth it to you. Full disclosure: I have never used a tracker myself.
> FCC or CE specs are automatically set based on your current GPS location as reported by your P3's GPS. This is not something you can change with a setting in the app or with a switch on your RC.
> For those of you who are hobbyists (non-pro) in the US, when (if) you register with the FAA you are registering yourself and not each individual drone. Once registered, you simply use the same registration number with all of your drones.
> Bookmark this post to locate it quickly at a later time.
>
Also, search the forum for the many other "any tips?" threads for more great info.

Good luck!

August 15, 2016 EDIT - Consolidated a few of my "any tips" posts from the past so that I can link to this one the next time someone asks.
 
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Oso, many thanks for your most thorough and helpful set of tips, a number of which I've already wondered about and will use!
 
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> The quick start guide that comes with your Phantom is very limited. Be sure to download the latest user manual from the "DOWNLOADS" link for your model. Read the manual several times before you fly, and then a few more times after you've flown for the first time when it will make a bit more sense to you. Other than the user manual, the download pages also include other valuable information and downloads. [P3P Downloads Page] [P3A Downloads Page]. You will also find links to the DJI apps on the download page.
Note:
If you see the "For Your Attention" pop up from DJI telling you that the P3P or P3A is no longer in production, just close the pop up. If you don't see the links to manuals on the right side of that page, try these links: P3P User Manual - P3A User Manual

> Just because the app tells you that a FW (firmware) update is available, that doesn't mean you must do the update immediately. I strongly suggest that you check out and become comfortable with your P3 and what "normal" looks like before changing any FW on the RC (remote control) or the AC (aircraft). [See my reasons here, but like most things it's YOUR decision]
(Important Note: if your P3 comes with 1.5 on the AC, you should move from that version. 1.5+ is not 1.5. It is a later version than 1.5).

> While you are looking through the app screens, be sure write down which FW versions you have on your AC and your RC. Always do this before you make any changes. You'd be amazed how many people have no clue which versions they have and that makes it more difficult to troubleshoot in case you have issues.

> So many threads have started with, "It was working perfectly, then I changed [ FW, App, Settings, etc ] and now it doesn't work." It always seems to be right before a big job or a vacation. If it's working perfectly already, why risk making changes right before a critical need? Make an informed decision if waiting until after the critical need would be a more prudent time for you to make major changes.

> Important note: Make sure you understand the changes related to AC FW 1.11.20. It was released in July 2017 and introduced forced flight restrictions similar to beginner mode if you haven't "registered" your app with DJI. Click here for more info. Also, DJI had been officially providing a new FW version to select users who say they saw ESC issues after the update to 1.11.20. They were providing a tweaked version (1.11.30) on a case by case basis, and now it seems that DJI has been using v1.11.30 when refurbishing units and not letting buyers know about it being installed. If you buy a refurb it may come with v1.11.30 already installed.

>
If you've already done your research, already written down your current FW versions, already read the release notes and you've made an informed choice to update your FW, click here and follow those steps closely. [Release notes are here: P3P release notes and P3A release notes].

> If you choose to update your FW, use a house fan of some type to blow across the gimbal. This will help keep the gimbal main board cooler since it is known to overheat during updates. The P3P is more susceptible to overheating during updates than the P3A, but I use a fan with both. FYI - this tip about using a fan is also mentioned in the FW install instructions. [Note - also use a house fan if you are using the simulator which requires the AC to be powered on due to some settings stored only in the AC.]

> If you choose to update your FW, don't forget to check your settings after the update. Some settings may revert to default values. Also, some settings are stored on the P3 and not in the app so check settings while connected to your P3.

> The FW version on your AC does not have to be the same version number as the FW on your RC.

> AC FW 1.8 and RC FW 1.6 were released together with an encryption change. If you have one (or later), you must have the other (or later) or you will have issues. DJI also noted this in the release notes, but even so we have seen several people here who were not aware and inadvertently created an encryption mismatch.

> The firmware bin file for a P3P begins with P3X. The firmware bin file for a P3A begins with P3S. Using a "P3S" file name for the P3A firmware started before the Phantom Standard was released.

> DJI has historically maintained an archive of FW versions on their site even though they don't always show links to them. For archived FW versions directly from DJI, follow the links in this post.

> There are many outdated YouTube tutorial videos demonstrating old procedures, especially how to update FW. For example, using a USB stick to update your RC has not been the correct process for quite some time. That process was changed back in Q3 of 2015 with FW 1.3.2 for 300B/300C RCs and 1.4.1 for 300A RCs. Try to watch only the most recent videos you can find to avoid causing issues and frustration.

> DJI Assistant software is not compatible with the P3 series.

> On your mobile device, disable auto updating for the GO app. This way you can read about any changes or issues that may have been introduced in a new version and decide for yourself when or if to update the app. This is especially important with iOS devices since it is not as easy to revert to older app versions on iOS as it is on Android. [Note: DJI has recently started trying to force users to update to the latest app. You may see a message box appear telling you to update even if you have auto updates disabled.]

> For those of you in the US, use ONLY the official FAA web site to register. Don't be fooled by web sites that will charge you an extra fee to register. These sites are not affiliated with the FAA. Also, if you are a hobbyist you are registering yourself and not each individual drone. Once registered, you simply use the same registration number with all of your drones.

>
The motors on a P3 are slightly tilted by design to help with stability and to help avoid issues when descending.

> When Beginner Mode is enabled, the motors will not start without a good GPS lock. When Beginner Mode is disabled, the motors will start with no GPS lock but with no GPS lock you will be in ATTI mode so be ready for your AC to drift with the wind.

> Practice ATTI mode on a regular basis in a large open area so that you are familiar with that mode and have the skills needed when the time arises.

> Do not use the CSC to stop your motors once you've landed. CSC is known to cause flip overs. Only use left stick down for three seconds to stop your motors. (Note: Use CSC to stop your motors in an emergency, but know that if you are in the air it will cause your P3 to crash!).

> Keep in mind that if your P3 is sitting on the ground and you don't stop the motors, it may still try to level itself if the terrain is not flat or if the wind is blowing. This can lead to a tip over. If you are not intending to launch again immediately, it's safer to stop the motors if your P3 is on the ground.

> Full left stick down while descending will not stop your motors while in the air. (This is one of the most often asked questions).

> The video signal and the control signal are not the same. You can lose your FPV video but still have control. RTH is not triggered by losing only your video signal. If you see the green LED lit on your RC, you can still control your P3 even if you've lost the video feed. [If you are within range, you can even remove, reboot, or turn off your mobile device and still have control of your AC. Think about practicing this scenario. Edit - as noted above, the release of AC FW 1.11.20 in July 2017 introduced forced flight restrictions similar to beginner mode if you haven't "registered" your app with DJI. Click here for more info. Due to this change, if you've chosen to install FW 1.11.20 or later, you may be limited in distance if you try to fly without your mobile device.]

> Read this post for information about compass calibrations. It is an older post that was updated when the P3 was released. In a nutshell, you do not need to calibrate before every flight. Once you have a good calibration, just leave it alone. If you get compass errors, it normally does not mean you should re-calibrate. Just move to a less magnetically influenced area. Click here for info about a bad calibration and an interesting video demo. Personally, I rarely calibrate my compass, but I do check the mod values before every flight to be sure they are between 1400 and 1600. Before launch, you can also check that the heading indicator in the GO app map display is the same as what you can see visually when you look at your Phantom.

> Try the different RTH modes so that you know what to expect before the need arises.

> When RTH is initiated, the Phantom will not descend to your preset altitude if it is already above your preset RTH altitude. (This is one of the most often asked questions).

> If RTH is initiated when your P3 is within 20 meters of your set home point, your P3 will land in it's current location and will not return to the home point. This is by design, though most here question why this makes sense to DJI. The manual does note this, but many people miss it.

> The Phantom considers it's take off location to be zero altitude. It roughly calculates altitude changes by barometric pressure relative to the take-off location pressure. It is not aware of surrounding terrain or any elevation changes of the surrounding terrain. You must be aware. Not planning for elevation changes has been a common mistake during waypoint missions often causing impacts with trees or other obstacles.

> If you fly below your take off altitude, the app will simply show a negative altitude. If RTH is initiated while you are at a negative altitude, your P3 will still ascend to your preset RTH altitude above the original take-off altitude.

> Do not assume that the P3 will tighten your props automatically. Just loosely spinning on the props is not enough. The ESCs are designed with “active braking” to rapidly decelerate the motors. The resulting inertia may be enough to spin OFF a prop if you have not adequately tightened the props before flight. Check your props prior to every flight. Props can and have flown off during flight, so don't be the next crash victim who says, "I thought they were self tightening!"

> We routinely advise against using metal thread props on P3 model ACs due to the deceleration during active braking noted above. My suggestion is to stick with DJI brand props with nylon threads.

> Be careful how you orient your antennas. Check out this video for tips. Summary is that the antenna should be pointed up, roughly parallel to the legs on the bird's landing gear as much as possible, and with the wider (flat) side facing the AC. Do not point the RC antenna straight out unless the bird is directly overhead which by the way is not a good place for it to be. Note: The AC's legs contain it's antennas.

> The "Enable Max Distance" option in the app is used to set a distance limit. Leave this option disabled to fly the maximum distance. Only enable this option if you want to set a max distance limit of up to 500M. [Note - I've always thought this option was poorly named. I think "Enable Distance Limit" would be more intuitive.]

> Maps are not required to fly, though many find them useful. If you choose to use maps in the field, you will either need Internet access in the field, or cache the maps in advance.

> GPS satellites do not download map data!

> Your Phantom normally has its own GPS to know where home is located.

> Your P3's GPS module is attached inside of the top shell. When you pick up your P3 from the top, your hand will block the GPS signal. If it's connected, the app will let you know verbally and with an on screen warning. This is normal and all will be fine once you move your hand.

> Follow Me mode will not work if your mobile device does not have it's own GPS or is not connected to an external GPS device. Most Android devices already have internal GPS, so they are usually fine. With iPads, only the cellular versions have GPS and a data plan is NOT required. [Tethering an iPad does not transmit GPS data for Follow Me to function. Click here for more info on what to expect with different iPads / situations. Click here for a list of compatible Apple devices.]

> You have very little chance of recovering from a CSC (with a P3) while in flight even if you are at a high enough altitude and even if you have done it in the simulator. [If you try this, please do so away from people and please record it so we can see the crash.]

> Don't forget to remove the small piece of foam that is often behind the gimbal on new P3s. Many people have not noticed it. Leaving it on will cause shaky video and could damage your gimbal. One user didn't notice it for a full year!

> You only need to have 2 of the anti-drop pins (inside the white vibration dampeners) installed on the gimbal. Many people put loosely fitted plastic zip ties in the two holes that come empty when the P3 is new.

> Yes, P3S batteries will work with a P3P and P3A.
> No, a P3S RC will not work with a P3P or a P3A.

> The P34k model gimbal/camera is not compatible with a P3P or a P3A. Your P3P/P3A may be damaged if you try to use a P34k gimbal/camera. Sadly, several people have found this out the hard way. Here are more examples in a forum search. If you need to replace your P3P gimbal/camera or you just want to convert your P3A to a P3P, use only a P3P gimbal/camera.

>
Make sure that your battery is fully seated and locked into place before powering on your AC. We have had reports of batteries which were not fully seated actually sliding out enough to lose data and even lose power in some instances. [Most reports were the first couple of months after the P3 was released, but it is still a good habit to always check]. This potential for catastrophe was finally corrected with the P4P-V2 which has a sensor to detect a partially inserted battery, but the P3 models are still susceptible so please double check!

> Fully charge your batteries before going out to fly. Don't begin your day with partially charged batteries. Too many people have said, "I was only planning a short flight and thought it would be enough," followed by something like, "it went to critical and now I don't know where it landed," or "and then it landed in the lake."

> The battery button serves several purposes. Double press (press, release, press and hold) to power on the battery. Press once and release to check the current level of charge. Press once and hold for a full 5 seconds to check the remaining battery life.

> If the battery level is already above ~95% when you plug it in, charging will not begin. To top off above 95%, power the battery on (out of P3) before plugging it in to charge. Then it will charge to 100%.

> If you set your batteries to auto discharge after a certain number of days, they will only start to auto discharge on that day. It could then take 2-3 days for them to discharge down to ~65% after they start discharging. If you press the battery button at anytime, the battery will stop discharging and the day counter will be reset. Note that the battery will become slightly warm when it is auto discharging.

> If you plan to store your batteries for a while, click here for one example of how to do so safely.

> If you do an RC calibration, don't overlook the scroll wheels or the calibration will not complete. FYI - an RC calibration is often what cures a beeping RC.

> The camera lens cover / UV filter is often difficult to unscrew for removal. It's best to use a very light grip as you turn it. Many use a rubber band or a latex glove to assist, but still always keeping a very light grip. Others have had luck with the prop removal tool. I use a rubber band.

> In the GO app, the maximum flight altitude setting and the RTH altitude always show in meters and can't be changed to feet no matter what preference you set in the app. Keep this in mind when you are setting your altitudes prior to flight.

> If for some reason you need to reinstall the GO app, your flight records will be lost when you delete the app. If you want to save your flight records, sync to the DJI cloud first and then delete the app. Once you've reinstalled the app, sync again and your flight records will be restored.

> You can use the same GO app with multiple P3 drones even if they are different models.

> The P3 splits video files at ~4GB. There are no workarounds regardless of formatting as either FAT32 or exFAT. The P3 will still split video files at ~4GB even though the exFat format itself allows larger files.

> The media recorded on your mobile device is low resolution. Use only the media from your SD card if you want the highest quality.

> Many of us choose to use multiple lower density cards (16GB / 32GB for <4k -or- 32GB / 64GB for 4k) and switch them out with every battery change. This way, should the worst happen and you lose your AC you wont also lose a lot of work that could be on a larger card left in the AC through several battery changes.

> You can not take a still photo if you are currently recording video.

> If your FPV (and also pix/videos) are consistently dark (underexposed) or bright (overexposed), check to see that you haven't set the EV (exposure compensation) to something too negative or too positive. Try to keep it at -0- as much as possible.

> You can start up your P3 without props, but the motors will automatically shut down after a few seconds.

> Consider placing a small "If found" txt file on your SD card which could contain contact information.

> If you use prop guards, be careful with the screws. If they are too long, you can damage the motor. Many people have accidentally done this when they remove prop guards and then reinsert the longer screws which then damage the motor windings. People think that if they spin motors to check for free movement that all is good to go. In fact, the motor housing spins but the windings are static and the windings are what gets damaged.

> Consider the pros and cons of using a tracking device attached to your Phantom. Some commonly used devices are listed here. The dramatic drop in value of the P3 line may now make a tracker less attractive unless you plan to also use it with newer and more expensive drone models. You'll need to decide for yourself if the cost of a tracker is worth it to you. Full disclosure: I have never used a tracker myself.

> FCC or CE specs are automatically set based on your current GPS location as reported by your P3's GPS. This is not something you can change (officially) with a setting in the app or with a switch on your RC.

> Bookmark this post to locate it quickly at a later time.

>
Also, search the forum for the many other "any tips?" threads for more great info.

Good luck!

August 15, 2016 EDIT - Consolidated a few of my "any tips" posts from the past so that I can link to this one the next time someone asks.
Thanks very much for your response. I have to print this as my Most useful reference material to Date. I am not familiar with most of your acronyms but I'll get it. I am just about to try the dji go apps Flight Simulator since the weather sucks and it is really a must to get used to flight without serious repercussions. Thanks again!
 

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