Inspect your P3 before flight!

[remondo45]

Hello everyone, I am completely new to the phantom world (just got my P3A, used). I was looking to fix the cracks and install the reinforcement plates. From the ongoing threadlocker discussion and the unavailability of Loctite 425 (at least in Europe), I was looking for an alternative. I found Vibra Tite (Vibra-Tite VC-3: The Adjustable & Reusable Threadlocker.). It says it works with plastics, but I am not 100% if it would work with the plastic the phantom shell is made of. Any of you guys maybe know enough about this to give me an idea of whether or not this would work?

 

[Numone]

Hello everyone, I am completely new to the phantom world (just got my P3A, used). I was looking to fix the cracks and install the reinforcement plates. From the ongoing threadlocker discussion and the unavailability of Loctite 425 (at least in Europe), I was looking for an alternative. I found Vibra Tite (Vibra-Tite VC-3: The Adjustable & Reusable Threadlocker.). It says it works with plastics, but I am not 100% if it would work with the plastic the phantom shell is made of. Any of you guys maybe know enough about this to give me an idea of whether or not this would work?

Welcome Remondo.
Before you even think about installing the so-called "reinforcement" plates, can we see pics of the cracks?

 

[remondo45]

Welcome Remondo.
Before you even think about installing the so-called "reinforcement" plates, can we see pics of the cracks?

Hi Numone, thanks, I am happy to be here (well, happy to have a drone, not so much the cracks )


**these are the only cracks, they are on only 2 of the arms. My plan was to open up the shell and reinforce all arms with epoxy first, and then add the reinforcement plates.

 

[Numone]

Hi Numone, thanks, I am happy to be here (well, happy to have a drone, not so much the cracks )
View attachment 84603 View attachment 84604

Hmmmmm.... as the cracks are across the motor mount from one bolt to another and I presume you don't want to re-shell, this would be a good example where the plates may help to spread the stress loading.
Don't know anything about that product. Where can you obtain it in Europe?

 

[remondo45]

Hmmmmm.... as the cracks are across the motor mount from one bolt to another and I presume you don't want to re-shell, this would be a good example where the plates may help.
Don't know anything about that product. Where can you obtain it in Europe?

Well, a re-shell is my last resort, as these cracks seem to appear in new shells too. My thinking is to try and fix it now and stop it from spreading, and if that does not work do the re-shell (with reinforcements).
I found the product in an archery accessory shop (Vibra-Tite).
It claims to be non-anaerobic which, from what I can tell from all the discussions I've read on this, seems to be key in it not attacking the plastic - but I am sure there are people that know more about specific plastics etc.

 

[Numone]

Well, a re-shell is my last resort, as these cracks seem to appear in new shells too. My thinking is to try and fix it now and stop it from spreading, and if that does not work do the re-shell (with reinforcements).
I found the product in an archery accessory shop (Vibra-Tite).
It claims to be non-anaerobic which, from what I can tell from all the discussions I've read on this, seems to be key in it not attacking the plastic - but I am sure there are people that know more about specific plastics etc.

I'm certain its the bolts being over torqued that causes the stress leading to the failure of the plastic. I removed the bolts before I flew the AC for the first time, to install prop guards and I noticed the inconsistency of the tightness of the bolts; some were very difficult to undo. I used Loctite 425 on the longer motor bolts, and tightened them to a much lower level than the originals. I removed the prop guards after one flight outdoors and reinstalled the original bolts, again retightening them to a lower level. I have no sign of cracks anywhere.

 

[remondo45]

I'm certain its the bolts being over torqued that causes the stress leading to the failure of the plastic. I removed the bolts before I flew the AC for the first time, to install prop guards and I noticed the inconsistency of the tightness of the bolts; some were very difficult to undo. I used Loctite 425 on the longer motor bolts, and tightened them to a much lower level than the originals. I removed the prop guards after one flight outdoors and reinstalled the original bolts, again retightening them to a lower level. I have no sign of cracks anywhere.

Thanks for the info, Numone. I have heard about that too, and I was going to not tighten them as much when reinstalling the motor screws anyways (just to be sure).
Where do you get the Loctite 425 from? I cant seem to find it anywhere in Europe.

All new shells seem to be out of stock right now anywhere that I look, so I guess i'd have to wait with a re-shell either way. I am also in contact with DJI who are trying to be helpful but literally seem to have lost the ability to speak English. This was their response to my email asking them about whether or not it is covered by the EU warranty laws, and what it would cost, or if it would be for free if it falls under EU warranty laws. Enjoy the email:
"You can send your unit for repair, you should be able to provide proof of its purchase for review, yes 2 years warranty policy if your unit can still repair your unit. For repair fee, DJI The technician will send the result depending on the diagnosis if it pays to other parts of your unit ."

 

[Numone]

Thanks for the info, Numone. I have heard about that too, and I was going to not tighten them as much when reinstalling the motor screws anyways (just to be sure).
Where do you get the Loctite 425 from? I cant seem to find it anywhere in Europe.

All new shells seem to be out of stock right now anywhere that I look, so I guess i'd have to wait with a re-shell either way. I am also in contact with DJI who are trying to be helpful but literally seem to have lost the ability to speak English. This was their response to my email asking them about whether or not it is covered by the EU warranty laws, and what it would cost, or if it would be for free if it falls under EU warranty laws. Enjoy the email:
"You can send your unit for repair, you should be able to provide proof of its purchase for review, yes 2 years warranty policy if your unit can still repair your unit. For repair fee, DJI The technician will send the result depending on the diagnosis if it pays to other parts of your unit ."

What they're saying is that if it's warranty it'll be FOC repair if it's <24m and you can provide proof of purchase. If their technicians deem it's pilot error damage, they'll tell you the repair cost.

Helipal (Hong Kong but reliable) have shells in stock here.
I got the 425 in the States.

 

[aburkefl]

Are the motor screws the larger ones at the ends of the arms and also, what is the size of the bit needed to loosen them?
Thanks

Operating from memory - I think you need a size 6 and size 8 torx (sp?) wrenches. (A) pay close attention to where you took out each screw - some of them are longer/shorter than others and they go back into specific places. (B) snoop on YouTube and you'll find a number of videos that can help guide you through what you need and how to get the shells apart, remove/replace parts, etc.

The longer/shorter screws above? If you accidentally tighten the motors with screws that are too long, you could damage the motors. When I disassembled my shell (P3Pro) I kept all the hardware separate and labeled - very carefully!

Art - N4PJ
Leesburg, FL

 

[wichkans]

I have this very same prop balancer, of course you have to choose the correct attachment for the prop, one with a threaded end, the same size as the propeller threads.

 

[remondo45]

What they're saying is that if it's warranty it'll be FOC repair if it's <24m and you can provide proof of purchase. If their technicians deem it's pilot error damage, they'll tell you the repair cost.

Helipal (Hong Kong but reliable) have shells in stock here.
I got the 425 in the States.

Cheers, Numone. Just ordered a replacement shell.

 

[REBELimgs]

So for anyone who gives a rats ***, I got my P3 back from warranty repair through SquareTrade and they replaced the shell. They used, what seems to be, the cheaper shell. There are definitely at least two different shells DJI made because the first one that broke felt thicker and less chinese...y. lol The one they replaced my broken with feels cheap af like the shell replacement I bought on Amazon in 2016. Oh well, warranty's expired and I have a new, yet cheap feeling, shell and a replacement sitting in new in a box. I''ll be installing the motor mount reinforcements and torquing them not so tight. We'll see if this works.

 

[wichkans]

Think about it this way, the powerful little motors are attached to this plastic arm by 4 screws, even if you never crash think of the stress put on that part when you are going 30 mph and do a sudden stop or change of direction I am n ok t saying that the plastic was not faulty but I heard something said the other day that got me thinking, these drones are made for video and not for racing .

 

[REBELimgs]

Think about it this way, the powerful little motors are attached to this plastic arm by 4 screws, even if you never crash think of the stress put on that part when you are going 30 mph and do a sudden stop or change of direction I am n ok t saying that the plastic was not faulty but I heard something said the other day that got me thinking, these drones are made for video and not for racing .

Who said anyone was racing them? I fly mine over lakes and other landscapes for video and never crashed it and all the phantom 3s i've had all cracked. It's a faulty/cheap design simple and plain.

 

[wichkans]

REBELimgs, I didn't mean to say you were racing, my point was that part goes through great stress and I understand your frustration, just last week I noticed two small cracks on my P3A on the screw just above the motor mount screw, in fact I wrote a thread asking for info on getting the best quality shell replacement.
Do the P4's have any history of the type of cracking we see in the P3's?

 

[REBELimgs]

REBELimgs, I didn't mean to say you were racing, my point was that part goes through great stress and I understand your frustration, just last week I noticed two small cracks on my P3A on the screw just above the motor mount screw, in fact I wrote a thread asking for info on getting the best quality shell replacement.

Did you get any good info? I have a shell i bought a long time ago and it feels incredibly cheap... like the one I got with my warranty repair.