Flying from inside house or car anyone?

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That is weird with your results


Yup both glowing blue. It's harder to tell with the gold suhans.
Right, the right side should be super fast, and because it's only one way, half as bright, the left one is doing what these babies were made for, time differential up and down frequency detection amplifying signals, the right side is just receiving which is not ever going to be as easy as pumping up transmitting power, bigger and higher antenna is best way to listen better, amps in fact increase signal to noise ratio to large extent, and bigger and higher antenna is much more efficient.
This is from what I've been learning, someone else want to chime in, let's hear it! I'm all ears, my next thing is I may spring for a 15dB dual band omni (it's 15db for 5.8g and 10dB for 2.4g) I'll do this if I buy a typhoon H, then I'll at least theoretically be able to fly both.


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May even buy a 15dB 2.4g for my downlink side


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The lights that blink on the amp packs. It stays on white and you can see blue blinking very little. Or does blue blink really bright. I can almost not see the blue
 
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I have a gold Sunhans 3.0 and a silver Sunhans 2.5 working successfully together on my GL300A, with the FPVLR v2 mod, with the 3.0 on the video receive side, and use this for all my P3P's out to 5+ miles away.
Gadgetguy didn't you buy one of the spectrum analyzers? If so, yeah, I remember the guy whoever it was saying the left side sends and receives and the right only receives, which made sense, due to the bandwidth on the HD down.


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I will test tomorrow and post all results. Yeah. The left side is showing white light. If I unplug the video downlink is gone. I pinpointed the cause to the dampening of the long cable. If I use short cable it triggers the blue light. That's why I want to test the downlink amp on the roof and the FC down. Let's see...
I like that idea! I think though your biggest problem will be the cable, it was my biggest hardest thing to buy, didn't care about buying antenna, but cables!? Expensive ones? Sucked, but it'll pay off, if I wasn't using these cables I wouldn't be able to get what I am getting un-amped for sure.
I wish there was an easy way for my to mount the amp near antenna, but how? Jeez, and then protect them? It's just too hard, heck I didn't even install my own antennas.


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I like that idea! I think though your biggest problem will be the cable, it was my biggest hardest thing to buy, didn't care about buying antenna, but cables!? Expensive ones? Sucked, but it'll pay off, if I wasn't using these cables I wouldn't be able to get what I am getting un-amped for sure.
I wish there was an easy way for my to mount the amp near antenna, but how? Jeez, and then protect them? It's just too hard, heck I didn't even install my own antennas.


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Now I got a step further!
I tested following:

SH golden 3W amps newar to RC and long cable to roof antennas (15m): Same result as described earlier: LEft one white, right one stable blue. This test was only to see if problem is still there.

Next setup: SH 3W amps close to RC and SH silver amps 4W close to antenna. in-between same 15m cable. Result: Now right SH golden 3W is stable blue and finally the left one kicked in with wild fast blinking activity! -In other words it works!

However, the HD channel indicator on the DJI Go app is disaplying high level on almost all channels but red.- Sometimes lower level and green. Fluctuating a lot. I also noticed that when I was within 100m of the antennas that slight distortions occured. Once I went more far away it was clear. It seems I distorted either the bird side gear or the RC HD input. I went 3km to check and both signals were always on full level. This is a good result.

Next time I will test only the 4W SH silver on the roof. In total there is 6 combinations possible to test.

Yea.- I wired a 12V cable up to the roof and need to build 2 little weather proof boxes for the amps.
Currently I just hide them under a rubber sheet...
Soon the parabolic magnet foot antennas will arrive. There is some more tests ahead!...
 
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Now I got a step further!
I tested following:

SH golden 3W amps newar to RC and long cable to roof antennas (15m): Same result as described earlier: LEft one white, right one stable blue. This test was only to see if problem is still there.

Next setup: SH 3W amps close to RC and SH silver amps 4W close to antenna. in-between same 15m cable. Result: Now right SH golden 3W is stable blue and finally the left one kicked in with wild fast blinking activity! -In other words it works!

However, the HD channel indicator on the DJI Go app is disaplying high level on almost all channels but red.- Sometimes lower level and green. Fluctuating a lot. I also noticed that when I was within 100m of the antennas that slight distortions occured. Once I went more far away it was clear. It seems I distorted either the bird side gear or the RC HD input. I went 3km to check and both signals were always on full level. This is a good result.

Next time I will test only the 4W SH silver on the roof. In total there is 6 combinations possible to test.

Yea.- I wired a 12V cable up to the roof and need to build 2 little weather proof boxes for the amps.
Currently I just hide them under a rubber sheet...
Soon the parabolic magnet foot antennas will arrive. There is some more tests ahead!...
Ok, wait, so what does this tell us then?
Ok, first off, your using, or let's say NOT using ultra low loss cable right? So that's that part. But then, when you put another amp on the side that wouldn't light the blue, it then worked! Which is good but you say almost all channels are in the red zone? And your using the hack I'm sure? So the noise is crazy high?
Now, you went three K, so that is a successful test let's say, I mean, it's far short of the 5 I'm getting, and less then the 5 miles others can get (I'll never get that here in my hood) and can go 3 and have full bars, but not everywhere for sure.
Here's the thought I had, I wonder if the Sunhans is just increasing the amps signal, that's why it's lighting, it's "seeing" the signal from the antenna one, thus the glowing blue lamp indicator? This is likely what your seeing.
I'll take a little video of my RSSI without amp, and then post what your seeing with both so we can compare? I'll use my iPhone but it's super windy today so, no flying. Now, this isn't to you know, get into a pissing contest or anything, I'd just love to see if it's as bad as mine was, it was bad and un-usable, but you went 3 miles. Plus we have to remember that we have different channels right acting up, which of course also sucks, but we still may be able to help each other.
Because I touched on this, I never dbl up on the HD down side, because remember, that side doesn't seem to kick in the "camera" button, meaning no matter what I do to that side, amp or not, until I plug in the right side, I get nothing.
Of course I also switched amps and tried my short cables and the longer ones, even tried different makes to see if one was better and cannot get the blue light on the right side to blink, except the small DBS mod.
There's something to that tidbit of info, I'll say I'm not smart enough, but the truth is I'm ignorant of the process, wish I knew more about radio spectrometry and frequency analysis and how dBm applies to dB and RSSI.

As usual, I know just enough to make me dangerous lol.
 

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Ok, wait, so what does this tell us then?
Ok, first off, your using, or let's say NOT using ultra low loss cable right? So that's that part. But then, when you put another amp on the side that wouldn't light the blue, it then worked! Which is good but you say almost all channels are in the red zone? And your using the hack I'm sure? So the noise is crazy high?
Now, you went three K, so that is a successful test let's say, I mean, it's far short of the 5 I'm getting, and less then the 5 miles others can get (I'll never get that here in my hood) and can go 3 and have full bars, but not everywhere for sure.
Here's the thought I had, I wonder if the Sunhans is just increasing the amps signal, that's why it's lighting, it's "seeing" the signal from the antenna one, thus the glowing blue lamp indicator? This is likely what your seeing.
I'll take a little video of my RSSI without amp, and then post what your seeing with both so we can compare? I'll use my iPhone but it's super windy today so, no flying. Now, this isn't to you know, get into a pissing contest or anything, I'd just love to see if it's as bad as mine was, it was bad and un-usable, but you went 3 miles. Plus we have to remember that we have different channels right acting up, which of course also sucks, but we still may be able to help each other.
Because I touched on this, I never dbl up on the HD down side, because remember, that side doesn't seem to kick in the "camera" button, meaning no matter what I do to that side, amp or not, until I plug in the right side, I get nothing.
Of course I also switched amps and tried my short cables and the longer ones, even tried different makes to see if one was better and cannot get the blue light on the right side to blink, except the small DBS mod.
There's something to that tidbit of info, I'll say I'm not smart enough, but the truth is I'm ignorant of the process, wish I knew more about radio spectrometry and frequency analysis and how dBm applies to dB and RSSI.

As usual, I know just enough to make me dangerous lol.


Good idea!
I only was flying 3km because my battery waas already down to 72% when I left after all the intital testing. Also I didn´t intend to go over the edge first time testing the combination. I also fly the Europe RC model.. and no low loss cables yet as you stated.
I didn´t check on the red bars when flying further away. I assume they cooled down as the video link got more stable. It seems more that the red bars are due to distortion caused by too high input gain rather than amp-created or amplified noise from elsewhere. There is no other wifi for the next several hundred meters and in the forest there is no Wifi noise as well. I will try all the combinations when I got time on Sunday.
Did you see that one:
Seeed Studio Bazaar, Boost ideas, Extend the Reach
Maybe this one helps. I ordered one including attenuators,etc...

What seems strange to me is that you got same problem but right side. On my RC left is the downlink. When I switched off the P4 the left blue light stopped blinking! The right one ist still blue even I switch off the roof amps. (Maybe mine or your antenna cables sre crossed out inside the RC? not that I remember)

Yea. I agree.- no contest intention but would be great to see what you guys are able to get out over there! :)
However, I liked to sit infront of the 75" TV, start from back-door and land at the front door. I tried to hide the P4 behind the trees and building and still got range now. Before this was impossible. Omi-directional anteennas wiwwwwth booster seem to outrun the battery. Strange, that a battery mod seems so complicated. Especially when flying from inside it eould be great not having to reload every 20 minute...
 
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Good idea!
I only was flying 3km because my battery waas already down to 72% when I left after all the intital testing. Also I didn´t intend to go over the edge first time testing the combination. I also fly the Europe RC model.. and no low loss cables yet as you stated.
I didn´t check on the red bars when flying further away. I assume they cooled down as the video link got more stable. It seems more that the red bars are due to distortion caused by too high input gain rather than amp-created or amplified noise from elsewhere. There is no other wifi for the next several hundred meters and in the forest there is no Wifi noise as well. I will try all the combinations when I got time on Sunday.
Did you see that one:
Seeed Studio Bazaar, Boost ideas, Extend the Reach
Maybe this one helps. I ordered one including attenuators,etc...

What seems strange to me is that you got same problem but right side. On my RC left is the downlink. When I switched off the P4 the left blue light stopped blinking! The right one ist still blue even I switch off the roof amps. (Maybe mine or your antenna cables sre crossed out inside the RC? not that I remember)

Yea. I agree.- no contest intention but would be great to see what you guys are able to get out over there! :)
However, I liked to sit infront of the 75" TV, start from back-door and land at the front door. I tried to hide the P4 behind the trees and building and still got range now. Before this was impossible. Omi-directional anteennas wiwwwwth booster seem to outrun the battery. Strange, that a battery mod seems so complicated. Especially when flying from inside it eould be great not having to reload every 20 minute...

Awesome. Glad u are here! The omnies are just excellent.
 
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Good idea!
I only was flying 3km because my battery waas already down to 72% when I left after all the intital testing. Also I didn´t intend to go over the edge first time testing the combination. I also fly the Europe RC model.. and no low loss cables yet as you stated.
I didn´t check on the red bars when flying further away. I assume they cooled down as the video link got more stable. It seems more that the red bars are due to distortion caused by too high input gain rather than amp-created or amplified noise from elsewhere. There is no other wifi for the next several hundred meters and in the forest there is no Wifi noise as well. I will try all the combinations when I got time on Sunday.
Did you see that one:
Seeed Studio Bazaar, Boost ideas, Extend the Reach
Maybe this one helps. I ordered one including attenuators,etc...

What seems strange to me is that you got same problem but right side. On my RC left is the downlink. When I switched off the P4 the left blue light stopped blinking! The right one ist still blue even I switch off the roof amps. (Maybe mine or your antenna cables sre crossed out inside the RC? not that I remember)

Yea. I agree.- no contest intention but would be great to see what you guys are able to get out over there! :)
However, I liked to sit infront of the 75" TV, start from back-door and land at the front door. I tried to hide the P4 behind the trees and building and still got range now. Before this was impossible. Omi-directional anteennas wiwwwwth booster seem to outrun the battery. Strange, that a battery mod seems so complicated. Especially when flying from inside it eould be great not having to reload every 20 minute...
Well, I'll say I doubt mine are crossed, but you made a good point, that could explain what your seeing, because the. This means that we both are losing, or having issues with the downlink side, which in terms of learning is a good thing, we already know J can and I can just not everywhere, run out of battery before losing signal. I landed with 4% battery the other day!! And have been in process of instrument landing several times at 11% when she started to land on me at the worst times, after I align myself above the house at about 10', it takes about 2, maybe 3 minutes in high wind to get her in porch, due to trees and obstacles, so it's better for me to come in at 15% at least, I'll still push it, but 4% left on a total run of about 36,000' is really really pushing it.
Here's another thing about instrument flying, when she gets below the 10% threshold, I hate how it changes the flight characteristics. Shuts off the OA, I'm self taught now in how to bring it into tight spaces with it "fighting" me with OA wanting to not go towards the walls, when at say 9% or less, it's a twitchy little sucker, add 10+mph wind, and I'm in for a rough ride. I also don't like the speed at which it autolands, too hard, don't know why they can't kick in a tad more HP or UP when sensors can easily see its 1' above ground.
That brings up the OA. I took off the other day using my iPhone in one of those VR headset apps, in AC you don't sweat all over and fog up the screen. About 200' in the air I realized the display queue's for radar and such wouldn't be there to land, and the distortion or lack of depth meant I wasn't gonna be able to land, at least safely. I let it hover, turned off the phone and plugged in my Asus 8" ZenPad (awesome picture, as good as any super high end tablet, refurbished unit for $120 love it) and it opened DJIGO and I landed. That was scary!
I used my curved 3D tv a few times but wirelessly sent, will use much more or all the time when my Inspire remote arrives, with the HDMI, I won't pay for the module for this remote, it's not worth it, it's glued together, insides look like hell because of the broken boss screw holes that just broke and my RTH imploded, and one channel doesn't seem to work right, and bla bla bla. I can't even sell it I don't feel comfortable, I may but with the DBS antenna and full disclosure on eBay (I like my 100% positive feedback over the last 12+ years and about $20k sold)



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Well, I'll say I doubt mine are crossed, but you made a good point, that could explain what your seeing, because the. This means that we both are losing, or having issues with the downlink side, which in terms of learning is a good thing, we already know J can and I can just not everywhere, run out of battery before losing signal. I landed with 4% battery the other day!! And have been in process of instrument landing several times at 11% when she started to land on me at the worst times, after I align myself above the house at about 10', it takes about 2, maybe 3 minutes in high wind to get her in porch, due to trees and obstacles, so it's better for me to come in at 15% at least, I'll still push it, but 4% left on a total run of about 36,000' is really really pushing it.
Here's another thing about instrument flying, when she gets below the 10% threshold, I hate how it changes the flight characteristics. Shuts off the OA, I'm self taught now in how to bring it into tight spaces with it "fighting" me with OA wanting to not go towards the walls, when at say 9% or less, it's a twitchy little sucker, add 10+mph wind, and I'm in for a rough ride. I also don't like the speed at which it autolands, too hard, don't know why they can't kick in a tad more HP or UP when sensors can easily see its 1' above ground.
That brings up the OA. I took off the other day using my iPhone in one of those VR headset apps, in AC you don't sweat all over and fog up the screen. About 200' in the air I realized the display queue's for radar and such wouldn't be there to land, and the distortion or lack of depth meant I wasn't gonna be able to land, at least safely. I let it hover, turned off the phone and plugged in my Asus 8" ZenPad (awesome picture, as good as any super high end tablet, refurbished unit for $120 love it) and it opened DJIGO and I landed. That was scary!
I used my curved 3D tv a few times but wirelessly sent, will use much more or all the time when my Inspire remote arrives, with the HDMI, I won't pay for the module for this remote, it's not worth it, it's glued together, insides look like hell because of the broken boss screw holes that just broke and my RTH imploded, and one channel doesn't seem to work right, and bla bla bla. I can't even sell it I don't feel comfortable, I may but with the DBS antenna and full disclosure on eBay (I like my 100% positive feedback over the last 12+ years and about $20k sold)

There is a big brand name, if you want I'll post it, of a well received SA for about $125 I think, one of the guys here had that same one and really liked it, that one was where we got the final verdict on "right side is HD downlink and only receives, and left side is telemetry and flight control and data flows both ways"
Is it possible you crossed your antenna inside? I remember the mod and the factory actually have the further side connected, meaning it didn't make sense but the way you'd think it should go, was the opposite, they cross inside of you follow the original path and connections.


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Side note, one of my amps quite powering on, seems the power in broke loose or something like that, and Jake (after texting him what should I do about contacting and fixing this, w/out a receipt because we made a trade for an EVO Kit for my P4 remote that was still new) and....
Jake from MaxxUAV just made my day!! He said just send it to him and he'll replace it, dude is stellar and even before this earned my business but more so even now.
Sending stuff out on time, and not screwing ppl over is good business anyway, and caring about customers kinda goes without saying, be nice to ppl and don't rip them off, which he does in spades. But an actual return or problem with an item to be told this, that's extra BS he doesn't need, so doing this for me, that's huge guys, I cannot stress enough how this just impressed the crap out of me. I was expecting a huge deal with Sunhans and arguing and just over all problems, and with one sentence Jake made me feel 1000 X better! I was so upset and thinking it was going to take a month or two to send in and have repaired, I bought a generic cheap $21 2W booster.
I don't need it now, but for $21 for 2W, it's small, I want to put this booster in the bird now


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Side note, one of my amps quite powering on, seems the power in broke loose or something like that, and Jake (after texting him what should I do about contacting and fixing this, w/out a receipt because we made a trade for an EVO Kit for my P4 remote that was still new) and....
Jake from MaxxUAV just made my day!! He said just send it to him and he'll replace it, dude is stellar and even before this earned my business but more so even now.
Sending stuff out on time, and not screwing ppl over is good business anyway, and caring about customers kinda goes without saying, be nice to ppl and don't rip them off, which he does in spades. But an actual return or problem with an item to be told this, that's extra BS he doesn't need, so doing this for me, that's huge guys, I cannot stress enough how this just impressed the crap out of me. I was expecting a huge deal with Sunhans and arguing and just over all problems, and with one sentence Jake made me feel 1000 X better! I was so upset and thinking it was going to take a month or two to send in and have repaired, I bought a generic cheap $21 2W booster.
I don't need it now, but for $21 for 2W, it's small, I want to put this booster in the bird now


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FYI: We cover MaxxUAV products as well as FPVLR products. Bird side is covered with the Service Contract and the RC side is covered with the Controller & Battery add-on coverage.
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I am not sure that you need to use an amp on the control side. I tried today with just the 4w on video and control link is still solid at 23,000ft. I am going to run like this for a few days.
 
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Some comments re the Sunhan (or other) boosters.

These boosters are capable of operating in both directions, boosting received signals coming in on the antenna port and passing them to the radio port, and boosting transmit signals coming in on the radio port and passing them to the antenna port.

The thing is, it can't do both at the same time. Normally the booster is in receive mode. Only when it senses the presence of an outgoing signal on the radio port it switches to transmit mode. This is when the blue LED lights.

The Phantom 4 controller only transmits from one antenna port but it receives through both. And it only transmits for very brief periods of time, while it is receiving the rest of the time.

That is why only one booster should light it's blue LED. If both sides are lighting up the blue LED then something's not right, perhaps the RF out of the transmit side booster is leaking into the receive side booster enough to trigger it to transmit mode.

Now that really shouldn't hurt anything, since the RC doesn't send and receive at the same time, but it won't help either.

Now, is a booster going to accomplish anything useful on the receive side of the controller? Maybe. I say maybe because a booster on the transmitted signal will certainly give you a stronger signal going out, but adding a receive side preamp may or may not help the receive side. That's because there's already a preamp built into the RC and the preamp in the booster is only going to help if it has less internal noise than the RC's preamp.

One case where a receive side preamp can help is if you have a lot of loss in the coax to the antenna. In that case, mounting a receive preamp AT THE ANTENNA will help the received signal since it can compensate for the signal lost in the coax.

If you want to determine which port on your RC is the transmit port, try adding a booster on ONE SIDE AT A TIME, BUT KEEP BOTH SIDES HOOKED TO AN ANTENNA AT ALL TIMES!

In other words:
RC PORT 1 -->BOOSTER-->ANTENNA
RC PORT 2-->ANTENNA
to boost port one, swap to test port 2.

You should only see the blue LED on the booster coming on on one of the 2 antenna ports of the RC. Whichever side lights the blue LED on the booster is the transmit side.

Whether that's the right port or the left just depends on whether the 2 internal antenna cables in the RC are crossed or not. They could be done either way so don't rely on someone else's claim as to which port is which because it may be different on your RC.

Now there is more to it, there are several specs for the booster such as maximum input power, transmit gain, maximum output power, receive gain, and noise figure. Another day.
 
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Some comments re the Sunhan (or other) boosters.

These boosters are capable of operating in both directions, boosting received signals coming in on the antenna port and passing them to the radio port, and boosting transmit signals coming in on the radio port and passing them to the antenna port.

The thing is, it can't do both at the same time. Normally the booster is in receive mode. Only when it senses the presence of an outgoing signal on the radio port it switches to transmit mode. This is when the blue LED lights.

The Phantom 4 controller only transmits from one antenna port but it receives through both. And it only transmits for very brief periods of time, while it is receiving the rest of the time.

That is why only one booster should light it's blue LED. If both sides are lighting up the blue LED then something's not right, perhaps the RF out of the transmit side booster is leaking into the receive side booster enough to trigger it to transmit mode.

Now that really shouldn't hurt anything, since the RC doesn't send and receive at the same time, but it won't help either.

Now, is a booster going to accomplish anything useful on the receive side of the controller? Maybe. I say maybe because a booster on the transmitted signal will certainly give you a stronger signal going out, but adding a receive side preamp may or may not help the receive side. That's because there's already a preamp built into the RC and the preamp in the booster is only going to help if it has less internal noise than the RC's preamp.

One case where a receive side preamp can help is if you have a lot of loss in the coax to the antenna. In that case, mounting a receive preamp AT THE ANTENNA will help the received signal since it can compensate for the signal lost in the coax.

If you want to determine which port on your RC is the transmit port, try adding a booster on ONE SIDE AT A TIME, BUT KEEP BOTH SIDES HOOKED TO AN ANTENNA AT ALL TIMES!

In other words:
RC PORT 1 -->BOOSTER-->ANTENNA
RC PORT 2-->ANTENNA
to boost port one, swap to test port 2.

You should only see the blue LED on the booster coming on on one of the 2 antenna ports of the RC. Whichever side lights the blue LED on the booster is the transmit side.

Whether that's the right port or the left just depends on whether the 2 internal antenna cables in the RC are crossed or not. They could be done either way so don't rely on someone else's claim as to which port is which because it may be different on your RC.

Now there is more to it, there are several specs for the booster such as maximum input power, transmit gain, maximum output power, receive gain, and noise figure. Another day.
For every user so far, except for IBV what I said stands true.
And even though I agree with most everything you said, it seems like I am the only person that is having issues getting both to light blue.
According to Sunhans info, they state the blue light comes on if it senses a signal, this could be up or down, they don't say but both ways would make sense.
The fact I have gotten out 3.2 miles with no amp on the HD channel, does point to my remote not being broken, and backs up what you say and I agree with on signal to noise ratio.
In more testing I see that if the video DL is connected and see a signal but the FC channel isn't coming thru, the app will show a strong "no signal" in red at top, this is because without the data stream or telemetry info, it cannot show just the video, it takes some data to make that pop up. This is why it "seems" that just connecting one makes both come alive, this ain't the case, it just seems that way, now of course you can lose HD channel but have full FC channel but the screen will appear fouled up and full of noise.

So today, I went to use my other amp and lost signal at 800' on both sides the connection sucked bad. I'm scared I have one amp that was working perfect and strong to 3+ miles out on FC side, and it's now broken on the power input pin, and my second amp isn't working correctly or it wouldn't act like this.
I'm going to call Jake and I'm going to offer $20-$30 just to replace the second amp if in the process of the first one it's not a big deal. If it is, I'll have to figure out how to sell it have it fixed, but Jake has been so cool, so cannot stand telling him I think the other amp isn't working right. I'm going to do more test, and even going to try no amps on either side for shits and giggles.
Keep in mind Jeremiah is using the much better Inspire remote, which I'd love to get, but before spending $300 on that, for $1500 I have seen new free shipping Inspire 1 v2 on eBay, that's a **** good price for a new Inspire, I'll have my new remote and the UAV I've wanted since the beginning.
I may sell one of my 1911s
I've put tritium night sights, recoil compensation systems and Wilson Combat sear and main springs along with green laser rosewood grips (stock on the Kimber Crimson Carry Pro II)
That's a $1500 1911, less then the STI but that's my carry weapon in officer length (3.25")


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IBV

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For every user so far, except for IBV what I said stands true.
And even though I agree with most everything you said, it seems like I am the only person that is having issues getting both to light blue.
According to Sunhans info, they state the blue light comes on if it senses a signal, this could be up or down, they don't say but both ways would make sense.
The fact I have gotten out 3.2 miles with no amp on the HD channel, does point to my remote not being broken, and backs up what you say and I agree with on signal to noise ratio.
In more testing I see that if the video DL is connected and see a signal but the FC channel isn't coming thru, the app will show a strong "no signal" in red at top, this is because without the data stream or telemetry info, it cannot show just the video, it takes some data to make that pop up. This is why it "seems" that just connecting one makes both come alive, this ain't the case, it just seems that way, now of course you can lose HD channel but have full FC channel but the screen will appear fouled up and full of noise.

So today, I went to use my other amp and lost signal at 800' on both sides the connection sucked bad. I'm scared I have one amp that was working perfect and strong to 3+ miles out on FC side, and it's now broken on the power input pin, and my second amp isn't working correctly or it wouldn't act like this.
I'm going to call Jake and I'm going to offer $20-$30 just to replace the second amp if in the process of the first one it's not a big deal. If it is, I'll have to figure out how to sell it have it fixed, but Jake has been so cool, so cannot stand telling him I think the other amp isn't working right. I'm going to do more test, and even going to try no amps on either side for shits and giggles.
Keep in mind Jeremiah is using the much better Inspire remote, which I'd love to get, but before spending $300 on that, for $1500 I have seen new free shipping Inspire 1 v2 on eBay, that's a **** good price for a new Inspire, I'll have my new remote and the UAV I've wanted since the beginning.
I may sell one of my 1911s
I've put tritium night sights, recoil compensation systems and Wilson Combat sear and main springs along with green laser rosewood grips (stock on the Kimber Crimson Carry Pro II)
That's a $1500 1911, less then the STI but that's my carry weapon in officer length (3.25")


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app

I also agree with most of what jstjohnz wrote. However, some details I cannot confirm.
Where did you get the info from that the Sunahns boosters (golden) are only triggering blue light when transmitting?

I alos do get both blue lights if either the antenna cables are short or I use a second booster on the HD downlink side.
Anyway I will get a RF signal generator/spectrum analyzer next week. This should bring clarity.
I tested shortly one amp on the right side near to remote and one amp for HD downlink near to roof antenna and it seems to work. I didn't test long range yet. In 2 weeks I'll be at a place where I can perform all these long range tests risking to not make it home because of battery shortage.
To summarize: The tests confirm the coax-loss causes the HD downlink side not to trigger the blue light. In any other case it is there. Maybe an LMR400 would work without amp. Thus, I'm using the downlink amp to compensate cable loss.
And: Noise is only relevant above a certain treshold (no package loss repeat here) so the HD downlink amp might increase the noise as it does the signal but it can very well happen that the signal is boosted above the treshold from where on it is readable. This will then give indeed longer range and penetration which the first flights clearly confirmed.
At Sim597: I see the the Inspire v2 as an outdated fix on the Inspire v1. The hardware is for sure better but investing in a matrice 600 might be worth it. I'll get one in September. Guess all these questions will return then. :)
 

IBV

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Hi there,
It's raining today so no tests.. However, I updated the thread with the latest antenna details:
Antenna jungle - inventory - What's out there?

I also run on the HD downlink side only the antenna side boosters. It seems perfect.

The 20dbi directional antennas I tested a little and they seem to have awesome penetration. When using the big omni or the dbs02 I always lost signal when going down into a small valley behind some forest area. With these antennas I got full range. I only use them when flying in kind of one direction. There the directional antennas seem to have an advantage. Gives me more safety close the trees.
The parabolic come soon. The size seems bigger than maxxuav ones. I couldnt verify completly but it seems boosters make more sense with larger antennas that can transfer the power better. Correct me if I'm wrong.
WP_20160627_13_50_24_Pro.jpg


Having the headplay display, the 75" TV and a 27" touchscreen for the windows mission apps (UGCS.com) I finally got the flexibility and quality. I'm broadcasting the mission to 3 screens depending on the passengers prefernces.
 
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Hi there,
It's raining today so no tests.. However, I updated the thread with the latest antenna details:
Antenna jungle - inventory - What's out there?

I also run on the HD downlink side only the antenna side boosters. It seems perfect.

The 20dbi directional antennas I tested a little and they seem to have awesome penetration. When using the big omni or the dbs02 I always lost signal when going down into a small valley behind some forest area. With these antennas I got full range. I only use them when flying in kind of one direction. There the directional antennas seem to have an advantage. Gives me more safety close the trees.
The parabolic come soon. The size seems bigger than maxxuav ones. I couldnt verify completly but it seems boosters make more sense with larger antennas that can transfer the power better. Correct me if I'm wrong. View attachment 58326

Having the headplay display, the 75" TV and a 27" touchscreen for the windows mission apps (UGCS.com) I finally got the flexibility and quality. I'm broadcasting the mission to 3 screens depending on the passengers prefernces.


Wow pretty impressive array there. Couple of questions.
1. How do you like the Headplay unit.
2. Can I get a part number on your magnetic antenna's?
I currently have run windsurfers, Maxxrange and smaller Itelite panel. Great distance from all. Many flights in congested areas.
4 miles out has been my max distance to date. No boosters on any of my setups yet. Waiting to see where my limits fall without the boosters. Really looking hard at the Headplay gear right now it's between those and the Fatshark Dominater V3.
 
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IBV

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Wow pretty impressive array there. Couple of questions.
1. How do you like the Headplay unit.
2. Can I get a part number on your magnetic antenna's?
I currently have run windsurfers, Maxxrange and smaller Itelite panel. Great distance from all. Many flights in congested areas.
4 miles out has been my max distance to date. No boosters on any of my setups yet. Waiting to see where my limits fall without the boosters. Really looking hard at the Headplay gear right now it's between those and the Fatshark Dominater V3.

I will get back to you once I'm at home.
I used dominator and headplay. Headplay got several advantages when using Fpv links with higher resolution like lightbridge. The roh lenses are great. Check for another thread vr goggles or alike. There is good info.
I can recommend headplay. Also the company handled the order well. I'm not selling this gear;-)
 

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