ESC error P3P firmware or physical issue?

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I just got my P3P used the previous owner had obviously come down hard and busted the gimbal, bent one landing gear and buckled an arm slightly. I installed the props when I received it and they weren't far off in alignment so I took it for a flight. It took off and flew without the camera fairly well so I set it aside until I managed to get a hold of a replacement camera. I them installed the replacement camera, did a firmware update the first time appeared to have failed as it just continued to beep well over an hour. I reset the P3P and tried again after downloading the update again and this time it seemed to have been completed successfully. Afterwards I attempted t start the bird up to ensure everything was satisfactory and I repeatedly get an ESC error. I've been poking around for 3 hours now trying to figure out how to read or find out what these log files are telling me but I can't seem to figure it out. So I'll see if I can manage to attach the log and see what you guys can tell me. I've been flying a P2V for a bit wanted to do an upgrade. I also can't seem to get the controller to do an update to the firmware but I think it's on the current software? The only thing I did other than that was attempt to remove the "quick release" prop guard mounts from one arm but when I put the screws back in I felt it might be too long without the mount and the motor seemed to have some resistance when I turned it by hand so I put everything back where it was. I don't remember which motor it was that I had messed with though. Well any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I've attached the log file in ZIP form from my last attempt at starting the bird.
 

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  • FLY092.zip
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The only thing I did other than that was attempt to remove the "quick release" prop guard mounts from one arm but when I put the screws back in I felt it might be too long without the mount and the motor seemed to have some resistance when I turned it by hand so I put everything back where it was. I don't remember which motor it was that I had messed with though. Well any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I've attached the log file in ZIP form from my last attempt at starting the bird.
We tell people so often to never reinsert the longer screws when removing the prop guards. Many many people have damaged their motor windings doing this and that is very likely the root cause of your ESC error.

If you are interested, click here for some tips that I often share with new P3A/P3P owners. The tip about long screws is listed along with some other good info.

Cheers!
 
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We tell people so often to never reinsert the longer screws when removing the prop guards. Many many people have damaged their motor windings doing this and that is very likely the root cause of your ESC error.
That's what I was guessing but is there a way to determine which motor it was? Otherwise I'll be replacing all 4 and I was trying to avoid doing that. Also I've noticed after the firmware update shutdown takes a lot less time. It took a good minute to shut down without the camera installed and only a few seconds or so after I've done the update. Didn't know if that was part of the issue or not.
 
That's what I was guessing but is there a way to determine which motor it was?
Probably the only way would be to upload a .dat file from the AC, that exhibits the issue. Such that the data file can be looked at for that purpose. Other than that. Can't think of one.
 
Probably the only way would be to upload a .dat file from the AC, that exhibits the issue. Such that the data file can be looked at for that purpose. Other than that. Can't think of one.
The zip I uploaded has the last flight log but I have no idea how to get the information on what is going on.
 
The zip I uploaded has the last flight log but I have no idea how to get the information on what is going on.
It's probably the rightBack. The .DAT shows a status of 0X13 on the rightBack and a status of 0X00 on the other three motors. I have no idea what the 0X13 status means but it's not normal.
upload_2018-5-15_5-34-18.png


The eventLog stream shows some unusual messages about the compass. Were you attempting to do a compass calibration?
 
The compass thing is an of one. It kept wanting me to calibrate and I think because I was in my room where I have a mass of electronics it was throwing the compass off. I did the calibration a few times but it still wanted it calibrated. Sho then I'll check the right year motor and likely replace it. Would rather do one motor than 4. And how did you find that info? I've been looking with csvviewer with no idea what I'm looking at.
 
The compass thing is an of one. It kept wanting me to calibrate and I think because I was in my room where I have a mass of electronics it was throwing the compass off. I did the calibration a few times but it still wanted it calibrated. Sho then I'll check the right year motor and likely replace it. Would rather do one motor than 4. And how did you find that info? I've been looking with csvviewer with no idea what I'm looking at.
The message telling you to calibrate is really saying that it doesn't like the geomagnetic environment. Just don't try to launch when you see this.

In CsvView create an Empty SigPlayer and then add the Motor:Status signals.
upload_2018-5-15_6-0-12.png
 
Ah yeah I wasn't trying to launch props were actually off I just wanted to ensure the motors would spin up. It was interesting as the drone was sitting on my bed and in some spots it didn't want the calibration others it did.
 
Ah yeah I wasn't trying to launch props were actually off I just wanted to ensure the motors would spin up. It was interesting as the drone was sitting on my bed and in some spots it didn't want the calibration others it did.
I'd bet that the metal coils inside the mattress caused the distortion leading to the calibration message.
 
That would make sense. Hadn't thought about the coils in the mattress. Thanks all over for the instruction on csvviewer and which motor is my problem.
 
I tried to get the outer shell and shaft off to get a better pic but so far no luck. Now to get a new motor and solder it in. Whew can I get the white stuff that seems to hold the wires still?
 
The only thing I did other than that was attempt to remove the "quick release" prop guard mounts from one arm but when I put the screws back in I felt it might be too long without the mount and the motor seemed to have some resistance when I turned it by hand so I put everything back where it was.

While we cannot completely rule out issue from FW, screwing into motor is most likely your cause.
Many people reported damaging their motors like that.

You can get the ESC number from the DAT file.

EDIT: Why didn't I read previous answers before writing my own?

Anyway, here's how the DAT file looks:
full


Functional ESCs have status 0x00. This one has status 0x13. It would be nice to have an array showing which status means what kind of issue. I'm sure the ESC Error after FW update will have a different status code.
 
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For anyone that hasn't seen it, this is what happens when you're a maroon and use screws they are so long on the motors:
View attachment 98918View attachment 98919View attachment 98920

Easy to see how long screws would damage the windings. However, I don't see the damage in these photos. Are you intending to show damage? Or are you just showing that long screws would clearly penetrate the windings?

It seems that slowing screwing in the screw while simultaneously slowing rotating the motor by hand would let the user know if they were touching the windings.
 
Easy to see how long screws would damage the windings. However, I don't see the damage in these photos. Are you intending to show damage? Or are you just showing that long screws would clearly penetrate the windings?

It seems that slowing screwing in the screw while simultaneously slowing rotating the motor by hand would let the user know if they were touching the windings.

If you look under the screw hole in the first picture, and through the screw holes in the second picture, you can see where the screw has run into the windings. Where they look kind of "smeared".

The answer to your last question is no. I'm still new to all of this but if you feel the friction on the motor from a screw that is being put in? It's too late, the damage is already done.

It wouldn't take all that much pressure on the windings to damage them, by the time they are smashed out enough to feel it when spinning the motor by hand they are already wasted and there is no going back..
 
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If you look under the screw hole in the first picture, and through the screw holes in the second picture, you can see where the screw has run into the windings. Where they look kind of "smeared".

Ahhhh....there it is. Yep, I see it.



The answer to your last question is no. I'm still new to all of this but if you feel the friction on the motor from a screw that is being put in? It's too late, the damage is already done.

It wouldn't take all that much pressure on the windings to damage them, by the time they are smashed out enough to feel it when spinning the motor by hand they are already wasted and there is no going back..

I hear ya. Good to know. When I was building and customizing rigs, "screw length" was always a consideration. I never damaged a motor, but I can see how someone might.

Good post.
 
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Ahhhh....there it is. Yep, I see it.





I hear ya. Good to know. When I was building and customizing rigs, "screw length" was always a consideration. I never damaged a motor, but I can see how someone might.

Good post.
I bought a few projects off of ebay....It happens a lot!!!!!! In the ads they say.."motors won't turn on" or something similar...lol Well, ya!!! when you put 3/4 in long screws into the motors they probably won't turn on!! :)

And since it does happen so often, it would be nice if they put a bottom in the screw hole on the motor on newer models. Then when the screw bottoms out you know it's too long. It is hard to judge the length with all of the plastic covering the bottom of the motor. Maybe, they already have? I haven't had anything newer than the p3.
 
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I bought a few projects off of ebay....It happens a lot!!!!!! In the ads they say.."motors won't turn on" or something similar...lol Well, ya!!! when you put 3/4 in long screws into the motors they probably won't turn on!! :)

That's hilarious. I've purchased a couple "piles of drone parts" on eBay myself. For the most part, I came out ahead. I purchased one used Phantom 1 (pre-Phantom 2 days) that had all the substrate "welded" away from the ESC's. I was like, "My god....how much damage can one guy do with a soldering iron?" All 4 ESC's suffered "welding damage" beyond repair. Fortunately, another "box-o-parts" contained 4 undamaged ESC's. Win=me!

I must say, I sort of miss the days when it was a challenge to get smooth video out of a drone. One of my better "secrets" (if you can call it that) was to meticulously balance my propellers. Nowadaze, I wouldn't even know how to go about balancing a P4P propeller...assuming it even needs balancing.

Here's a video I made to test prop balance. This is for entertainment purposes only....<;^)

 
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[QUOTE = "quaddamage, post: 1362164, membro: 66563"]
Embora não possamos descartar completamente o problema do FW, parafusar o motor provavelmente é sua causa.
Muitas pessoas relataram danificar seus motores assim.

Você pode obter o número ESC do arquivo DAT.

EDIT: Por que eu não li as respostas anteriores antes de escrever o meu próprio?

De qualquer forma, aqui está como o arquivo DAT se parece:
full


CES funcionais têm status 0x00. Este tem status 0x13. Seria bom ter uma matriz mostrando qual status significa que tipo de problema. Tenho certeza que o erro ESC após a atualização do FW terá um código de status diferente.
[/CITAR]

Qual é o nome desse programa que você usou?
 

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