Stress Cracks

And in the pictures it only shows one scratch but the are at least on two holes or all 4 on each arm. Thats why I think its like from it dragging across the mold or something . And they are all going in the same direction for the most part.. weird
 
  • Like
Reactions: dronesky
And in the pictures it only shows one scratch but the are at least on two holes or all 4 on each arm. Thats why I think its like from it dragging across the mold or something . And they are all going in the same direction for the most part.. weird
well at least if you do with new shell you can reinforce arm from inside the shell

Man thats crazy! Thats no good! We definitely need to figure out a different solution. My new shell came today and I have some interesting news it seems to have the lines right were the cracks would form. Like light scratches it looks like from the molding process or something. Almost like predetermined cracks like im scared to put this thing on and now im scared to order the motor mount plates... what to do. They might be nothing . Sorry they messed your motor up even for a second. I know that is stressful. Which brings me to this question if your flying part 107. And you know your craft has stress cracks and do a preflight check are you in the wrong if you let it fly with stress cracks? Or only wrong if something unfortunate happens? Or are you guilty just putting it in the air? Heres the pics btw
You aint kiddin stress'd thought I'd destroyed my best flier
 
Which brings me to this question if your flying part 107. And you know your craft has stress cracks and do a preflight check are you in the wrong if you let it fly with stress cracks? Or only wrong if something unfortunate happens? Or are you guilty just putting it in the air?
With the FAA you the PIC are responsible for everything if your firmware is not up to date & that's the cause of an accident or the cracks are whatever caused it and you flew it knowing that you're in deep doo doo
 
Well that is very odd. Obviously the screws used for the motor mount plates didn’t do anything to the motor. I’ve put 10 sets of the plates on my birds, and never had a problem. Maybe if you’re feeling curious, try putting one on one of the uncracked arms. Make sure you are not over tightening the screws also. One of my P3P has cracks on all 4 arms and it’s the bird that I use to fly long distance with. Hmmm...
 
Man thats crazy! Thats no good! We definitely need to figure out a different solution. My new shell came today and I have some interesting news it seems to have the lines right were the cracks would form. Like light scratches it looks like from the molding process or something. Almost like predetermined cracks like im scared to put this thing on and now im scared to order the motor mount plates... what to do. They might be nothing . Sorry they messed your motor up even for a second. I know that is stressful. Which brings me to this question if your flying part 107. And you know your craft has stress cracks and do a preflight check are you in the wrong if you let it fly with stress cracks? Or only wrong if something unfortunate happens? Or are you guilty just putting it in the air? Heres the pics btw
Looking at the pictures those seem to be some sort of casting marks? Is there any evidence of the on the other side, do they seem to go right through?
Be very careful what length screws you use to attache anything under the arms as yes, the threaded holes in the motors for mounting them go right through and a longer screw could make contact with the rotor windings!!
IMG_6434.jpg


By the way, this isn't a usable motor, it's an old one I am disassembling to make a balance adapter with!!
 
"it's an old one I am disassembling to make a balance adapter with!! " Crafty beep beep. Can you photograph your progress with a view to making a thread about a DIY balancer.

I was looking to buy a "mint" P3adv .......until I saw those cracks shown in the attached, a couple of the other mounts had lesser cracks. a & b went right to the edge of the shell and could be seen flexing, I can't remember about c.
 

Attachments

  • stress cracks.jpg
    stress cracks.jpg
    253.7 KB · Views: 185
Last edited by a moderator:
My balance adapter using two "no longer working": 2312A - one CW, one CCW

Disassemble motors - can be challenging but a bit of brute force here and there works and you'll be left with the two rotors comprising the ends, where the threads are, and the rotor housing where the magnets are. Remove the magnets (hard!) and cut off the housing tube from the ends. You now have the threaded ends with a 2cxm long nearly 4mm diameter shaft (where the bearings were).

I used a 15cm length of 4mm ID good quality brass tube, polished and checked for true.
thoroughly clean the tubeID and motor shaft, apply a tad of glue and push the shafts into each end of the tube.

Should be job done.
IMG_6438.jpg
IMG_6439.jpg
IMG_6440.jpg
IMG_6442.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: dronesky
"it's an old one I am disassembling to make a balance adapter with!! " Crafty beep beep. Can you photograph your progress with a view to making a thread about a DIY balancer.

I was looking to buy a "mint" P3adv .......until I saw those cracks shown in the attached, a couple of the other mounts had lesser cracks. a & b went right to the edge of the shell and could be seen flexing, I can't remember about c.
Whew those are bad mine not near that bad thats a new shell for sure
 
My balance adapter using two "no longer working": 2312A - one CW, one CCW

Disassemble motors - can be challenging but a bit of brute force here and there works and you'll be left with the two rotors comprising the ends, where the threads are, and the rotor housing where the magnets are. Remove the magnets (hard!) and cut off the housing tube from the ends. You now have the threaded ends with a 2cxm long nearly 4mm diameter shaft (where the bearings were).

I used a 15cm length of 4mm ID good quality brass tube, polished and checked for true.
thoroughly clean the tubeID and motor shaft, apply a tad of glue and push the shafts into each end of the tube.

Should be job done.
View attachment 114134View attachment 114135View attachment 114136View attachment 114137
Thanks for sharing I like it
 
Neat, as I said, crafty beep beep ???
I am wondering if heat or a solvent might soften the glue that presumably holds the magnets in place, is the magnet holding 'sleeve' part of the spoked bit? It looks as if there might be saw marks on the face of the spoke 'rim'
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So how would i reinforce the insides? Puddle some glue in there?? What kind super? Lol and I don't know what to do about them plates. Id say you could find shorter screws or file done the tips of yours but it wouldnt thread right or possibly strip out. I also believe my lines are from the casting/molding whatever you want to call it. But no they are not all the way through seems to be light scratches but i feel like its like a perforated piece of paper. Tear on the lines. Eventually those scratches might weaken and crack right along the lines. And i want to paint the new shell. But dont know if the industrial paint will strengthen it more or prevent me from seeing newly formed cracks.. i dont know what to do because soon ill be flying part 107 and want my bird safe as possible. But as funny as it sounds the cf props and little cf camera protector that attached to the legs seems to stiffened up my bird. Might be in my head but she seems more stable.. more quiet for sure. She is quieter at 80ft than she was at 400ft flying over head. I swear. Anywho my long posts. Ill check back after lunch after yall read my book..
 
Is this the newer design?? Dont know much about them. I dread puttng it on. Gotta paint it first. Should i primer the shell? Or is that extra weight? The paint i use covers good. Never used primer before and never had a problem. Also that balancer is super sweet. But if you already have the base.. why not order or make another rod. Unless those motors were burnt up. And wouldn't putting even the slightest drop of glue in the wrong spot on the rod mess up the balance? I need a balancer bad though
 

Attachments

  • 20190831_101126.jpg
    20190831_101126.jpg
    958.1 KB · Views: 202
Neat, as I said, crafty beep beep ???
I am wondering if heat or a solvent might soften the glue that presumably holds the magnets in place, is the magnet holding 'sleeve' part of the spoked bit? It looks as if there might be saw marks on the face of the spoke 'rim'
The casing where the magnets sit is magnetic, possibly iron, and the end bit where the threaded spindles are is aluminium. Yes I cat them off by spinning them in my small lathe and using a hacksaw!
I used a small. flat bladed screwdriver to prise the magnets out.
IMG_6444.jpg
IMG_6446.jpg
 
Last edited:
Is this the newer design?? Dont know much about them. I dread puttng it on. Gotta paint it first. Should i primer the shell? Or is that extra weight? The paint i use covers good. Never used primer before and never had a problem. Also that balancer is super sweet. But if you already have the base.. why not order or make another rod. Unless those motors were burnt up. And wouldn't putting even the slightest drop of glue in the wrong spot on the rod mess up the balance? I need a balancer bad though
Be careful what paint/primer you put on. These are some sort of moulded plastic and some paints will have a solvent in them that could cause deterioration of the plastic!!!
 
Be careful what paint/primer you put on. These are some sort of moulded plastic and some paints will have a solvent in them that could cause deterioration of the plastic!!!
Heard that! Thanks cheddarman! Your a wealth of knowledge! I thought i heard that somewhere before. Do you happen to know what the solvent is?? I will test the old shell before hand. I didnt want to tell my secret.. but heres what i use. Ive used it on plastic bumpers and car parts so safe on that at least. Awesone stuff. Lays down super smooth and dries fast as all get out. Ill probably pass on the primer
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20190831-102717_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20190831-102717_Chrome.jpg
    486.9 KB · Views: 180
Way to go, try it on the old shell first but also, as we have no idea exactly what the shell is made from, contact DJI technical support and ask their advice!
You can chat online Monday - Friday
 
Speaking of glue, has anyone tried "Bondic" or any UV light curing glue? I heard it's so easy to apply and welds broken/cracked plastic really well. You can manipulate it however you like while in liquid form and once you put it under UV light, it hardens.
 

Attachments

  • bondic.jpeg
    bondic.jpeg
    232.6 KB · Views: 166
Speaking of glue, has anyone tried "Bondic" or any UV light curing glue? I heard it's so easy to apply and welds broken/cracked plastic really well. You can manipulate it however you like while in liquid form and once you put it under UV light, it hardens.
It gets a terrible write-up on Amazon, especially if used in tight spaces - the UV light cannot get in to cure it!
 
Hi all,
I have been using the cnc aluminum mount plates on every Phantom 3 I own for quite some time now. I put them on whether there are stress cracks or not. The ones that have cracks are not getting any worse. The ones that are crack free, are still crack free. I have flown them with and without the plates attached. In my humble opinion, there is no affect in performance by having them on. I personally like the look of them,, and they are a lot easier to install than replacing a new shell, and less money also. And, after you have replaced the shell, you eventually have another phantom with stress cracks! My opinion.
I agree 100 %
 

Recent Posts

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
143,094
Messages
1,467,602
Members
104,980
Latest member
ozmtl