RTH on WiFi Signal Loss

[120CCPM]

Truth to be told, when I lost WiFi and DJI GO prompted me to initiate RTH, I answered yes but got a message "Return to Home Failed". I ended up shutting down the RC as that's certain to trigger a Failsafe RTH on the AC, but if RTH triggered on the app is sent via WiFi, then it's kinda silly for DJI GO to prompt you for RTH if there is no WiFi.

Anyways, only DJI knows how things work exactly. What I take away from all this, is that - should I lose WiFi again before control - initiating RTH via RC (or shutting down the RC altogether) remains the best option.

 

[Fly Dawg]

Truth to be told, when I lost WiFi and DJI GO prompted me to initiate RTH, I answered yes but got a message "Return to Home Failed".

This depends on if you lost communications between the device and the RC. The RTH failed message would indicate that. What you should do is go back and review your flight record .dat files and check you transmission quality. This will only tell you signal to and from the AC and RC, but not from the device to the RC. That is the BIG drawback of the Standard, utilizing the same frequencies for device transmission and RC transmission. This sounds again very familiar. I have seen issues with this before.

 

[120CCPM]

When I said I lost WiFi, I meant between RC and AC. I don't have any reasons to suspect my device got disconnected from the RC.

 

[Fly Dawg]

When I said I lost WiFi, I meant between RC and AC. I don't have any reasons to suspect my device got disconnected from the RC.

Not exactly the way you worded your intentions. Just making that point, that's all.

 

[kevinp3s]

what is the difference between home lock and RTH?

 

[Fly Dawg]

You have no wifi, then there is no point in using the app..... always use that top left switch on the controller.

This depends on which Wi-Fi section you are referring to. What you have to remember is that the Standard is connected to the device and the AC via Wi-Fi. There is a big difference between the two. Just because you are connected to the controller via the device Wi-Fi, does not mean that you are connected to the Controller/AC Wi-fi. Should you lose uplink RTH will initiate automatically. When you make these statements, always use the terms, "Uplink" or "Downlink" when referring to the control signals. It gets really confusing when you generically say "Wi-Fi". That terms relates to the 2.4GHZ and 5.8GHZ transmission bands. Just pointing that out for future posts, responses and reference..

 

[Birdies Wanted]

My DJI Go app crashed on my phone yesterday when the AC was approx 4000' away. Wasn't 100% sure what action to take, finally decided to restart the App and see what would happen. Was a little afraid it would set a new Home Point, but things were fine when the app came back up. Was prepared to initiate RTH from the controller if it didn't.

 

[Fly Dawg]

My DJI Go app crashed on my phone yesterday when the AC was approx 4000' away.

Personal opinion, but you have bigger issues than an app crash at that distance. No way you would have full visual at 4000'. Just because you can do the distance, not a great idea when you can't have orientation. Unless you are flying autonomously, which is another can of worms in itself at times. And if you got 4000' with a Standard, without loosing signal, consider yourself a lucky camper.

 

[Birdies Wanted]

It was out in the middle of nowhere. Was looking for deer in the snow. Had visual on the drone the majority of the time, just had to go the other side of a ridge where I know deer have hung out in the past.

I've got the DBS mod installed, so it does 4000' pretty easily.

Thanks for the opinion.

 

[Fly Dawg]

I've got the DBS mod installed, so it does 4000' pretty easily.

And that's fine. I lose visual at around 2500ft. Without the addition of strobes, no way I could see it, or maintain orientation. Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly have full visual, no matter how flat the terrain or how clear the skies are at that range. Especially for directional orientation. Don't count on the FPV to help if you lose downlink. Just MHO.

 

[Fly Dawg]

Well whatever, if i lose my 2.4ghz image on my phone i immediately use that top left switch because it gets my drone home faster. I just don't trust the RC's reaction time.

That makes no sense whatsoever. Both the app and the device simply "communicate" with the RC. That is the RC when you toggle the switch.

 

[kevinp3s]

Well whatever, if i lose my 2.4ghz image on my phone i immediately use that top left switch because it gets my drone home faster. I just don't trust the RC's reaction time.

so what you are saying is when you lose 2.4 ghz link you use the 5.8 ghz link to activate RTH

 

[michaeljwest]

How can I really test my RTH? I’m afraid to shut the controller down when I’ve got the aircraft up because I might really screw something up. But I don’t want to just hit the button under normal circumstances and see it come back. I would rather try it under an actual loss of signal condition, yet not loose my aircraft.

 

[Fly Dawg]

so what you are saying is when you lose 2.4 ghz link you use the 5.8 ghz link to activate RTH

Not Possible.

 

[RodPad]

@michaeljwest

Powering off the remote is the only way to simulate / test a signal loss and still be in range to get control / signal back.

With in view, above the tallest obstacle and far enough away that it doesn't land where it looses signal, as @solentlife is stating in post #2

I was impressed

Rod

 

[kevinp3s]

Not Possible.

please explain...why Rth cant activate via 5.8ghz....wont the S2 switch work on 5.8 GHZ?...As RTH activates automatically on loss of 5.8 ghz for 3 sec's?

 

[RodPad]

@kevinp3s

"But I don’t want to just hit the button under normal circumstances and see it come back."
I read it that he didn't want to hit the button?

Rod

 

[kevinp3s]

@RodPad

my reply was for Fly Dawg....

but I understand your point

 

[RodPad]

I knew that.

Rod

 

[Fly Dawg]

please explain...why Rth cant activate via 5.8ghz....wont the S2 switch work on 5.8 GHZ?...As RTH activates automatically on loss of 5.8 ghz for 3 sec's?

My statement only meant that you can not switch the Uplink and Downlink frequencies and utilize one for the other.