Phantom 4 or Phantom 3 Pro

Says it on their page anyways.
I don't know if that is accurate. It's not made by DJI and they are installing the same range extender that many other people are using.
 
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This makes no sense to me, why would you have to mount a range extender ? I thought the P4 can go really far. Are you guys saying that the radio sucks in the P4 ?
 
Are you guys saying that the radio sucks in the P4 ?
Some people are saying this. However, others are saying it's not a problem. This battle takes place every time DJI releases a new Phantom model.
 
This makes no sense to me, why would you have to mount a range extender ? I thought the P4 can go really far. Are you guys saying that the radio sucks in the P4 ?
YES, when compared to P3P or Inspire RCs. It can only go far with an antenna upgrade, or an Inspire RC.
 
I've had no trouble with my P4 radio. I can fly my P4 as far as my P3P.
 
The real advantage of P4 is the sports mode.:rolleyes:

Waiting for a firmware upgrade with acro mode, for P3. :D
 
I've had no trouble with my P4 radio. I can fly my P4 as far as my P3P.
That's interesting, mine loses control signal consistently, starting at ~3000-4000' range, sometimes momentarily, sometimes enough to trigger RTH. This occurs in the same areas the same craft will go over two miles using my Inspire controller, and never losing control signal, super solid. My P4 RC is anemic. I sent it to DJI with my craft complaining about this, but they did nothing to fix the RC, only replaced the craft for the yoyo issue. So I have to assume they tested it and mine is normal for a P4 RC.

You may recall my RF MEASUREMENTS post, measuring RF output, comparing P3, P4, and Inspire RCs for transmission power. The Inspire RC had 50% more RF power for control signal, which agrees with DJIs filling with the FCC.

I'm going to measure a friend's P4 RC to compare. Maybe mine is just bad somehow. But I see other former P3P owners complaining about with the same P4 issue, expecting it to perform like their P3P, rangewise.
 
Jake at Maxx UAV is now selling a brand new controller with clean kit installed already. This way you do not have to send your unit for the install or open it up yourself and you can keep your original controller. Just an option to consider and Jake has the best customer service by far.


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I've had no trouble with my P4 radio. I can fly my P4 as far as my P3P.

That's interesting, mine loses control signal consistently, starting at ~3000-4000' range, sometimes momentarily, sometimes enough to trigger RTH. This occurs in the same areas the same craft will go over two miles using my Inspire controller, and never losing control signal, super solid. My P4 RC is anemic. I sent it to DJI with my craft complaining about this, but they did nothing to fix the RC, only replaced the craft for the yoyo issue. So I have to assume they tested it and mine is normal for a P4 RC.

You may recall my RF MEASUREMENTS post, measuring RF output, comparing P3, P4, and Inspire RCs for transmission power. The Inspire RC had 50% more RF power for control signal, which agrees with DJIs filling with the FCC.

I'm going to measure a friend's P4 RC to compare. Maybe mine is just bad somehow. But I see other former P3P owners complaining about with the same P4 issue, expecting it to perform like their P3P, rangewise.

From your signature John, you are using a RC-GL300C controller on P4, and a RC-GL300A on your 3P.

That's probably the reason you have better reception with 3P. But if you buy now a 3P, it comes with the same RC as P4 (GL300C).

Check here and in other threads:

GL300A and GL300B have the same .380 watt power output, while the GL300C is only .303 watts. Use your GL300B for a vast 25% improvement! Just remember the mode switch settings will be the same as the GL300C, even though not so labeled, when you pair the GL300B with the P4!
 
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So what everyone is saying is I should buy both. Haha


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Yep, get both... :)
My opinion: P3P is more interesting to fly. P4 is somewhat boring if you want to take advantage of the sense and avoid/stop feature.(if you disable it you get a P3P I guess, for more money.)
P3P is very stable, but P4 is static! (once it stops its yoyo - didn't upgrade yet , dont know if it is solved) P4 has a better look, better finish. Better engines, batteries are more modern, better/easier connectors.
P3P is way cheaper.P3 Video is really good. P4 Video is really really good.
I was happy with the P3, but crashed it (my fault) and did need one for a job. So I got the P4 because it was the new one but to be honest, I think the P3P is absolutely fine. Now that my P3 is back from repair, I have a P4 as main, and the p3 as backup. My conclusion: Get a P3P, but that's just me.
 
From your signature John, you are using a RC-GL300C controller on P4, and a RC-GL300A on your 3P.

That's probably the reason you have better reception with 3P. But if you buy now a 3P, it comes with the same RC as P4 (GL300C).

Check here and in other threads:
I bought another P3 in January, it came with 300B. I haven't bought a P3P recently, but I highly doubt if it comes with a 300C because the labeling on the mode switch would be wrong. P3P's need a PAF switch and P4's have a PSA switch. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I bought another P3 in January, it came with 300B. I haven't bought a P3P recently, but I highly doubt if it comes with a 300C because the labeling on the mode switch would be wrong. P3P's need a PAF switch and P4's have a PSA switch. Correct me if I'm wrong.

John I bought my P3P in late January and it came with the 300C with the PAF switch.
 
Yep, get both... :)
My opinion: P3P is more interesting to fly. P4 is somewhat boring if you want to take advantage of the sense and avoid/stop feature.(if you disable it you get a P3P I guess, for more money.)
P3P is very stable, but P4 is static! (once it stops its yoyo - didn't upgrade yet , dont know if it is solved) P4 has a better look, better finish. Better engines, batteries are more modern, better/easier connectors.
P3P is way cheaper.P3 Video is really good. P4 Video is really really good.
I was happy with the P3, but crashed it (my fault) and did need one for a job. So I got the P4 because it was the new one but to be honest, I think the P3P is absolutely fine. Now that my P3 is back from repair, I have a P4 as main, and the p3 as backup. My conclusion: Get a P3P, but that's just me.
You share my feelings about P4 and P3, almost to the word! I like my P4, but I'm not in love with it like I am with P3P. I don't feel the love for P4.... just a fondness :rolleyes: I'm still waiting for DJI to fix the stability, the P4 isn't quite there yet. The currently altimeter issue, and the yaw quirkiness (commanding slight right and occasionally it yaws left slightly before going right), it's just not the same as my P3P. I expect "the same or better" performance in all functions with a newer, more expensive model. Am I expecting too much?
 
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John I bought my P3P in late January and it came with the 300C with the PAF switch.
That's interesting. So DJI labels their RCs with 300C model number, but some come with PSA and some come with PAF? Really? I wonder what the motive was for that? DJI makes two RC's that are labeled differently on the mode switch, but they have the SAME model number. That's pretty strange if you ask me.

If that's the case, and all new P3Ps come with 300C's, then buying a P3A or P will have the same reduction in range and signal integrity, unless you can find old inventory with 300B RCs. Pretty sad situation. I guess this will be good for the Itelite and Sunhans folks.

I'll have to get out my GL300B and add it to the list of this RF measurement thread to see where it fits in the performance lineup. Not that this helps any, I'm just curious.
 
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Out of curiosity I sometimes check Ebay for the 300B and see some for sale there.
 
I'll have to get out my GL300B and add it to the list of this RF measurement thread to see where it fits in the performance lineup. Not that this helps any, I'm just curious.

Nice information. So IF I buy the P4, should I buy a different RC? I have lots of mountains and trees here. I normally take shots of waterfalls and winding streams through the valleys. There are a number of places I can't shoot now because of my current knockoff DJI doesn't have the range. Get maybe 500 to 750ft. In those conditions.


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Nice information. So IF I buy the P4, should I buy a different RC? I have lots of mountains and trees here. I normally take shots of waterfalls and winding streams through the valleys. There are a number of places I can't shoot now because of my current knockoff DJI doesn't have the range. Get maybe 500 to 750ft. In those conditions.


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You are going to need some sort of antenna boost no matter if you pick a P3 or P4 or have an A,B or C controller. Trees are mostly water. 2.4 GHz is one of the main frequency where water molecules will resonate and pick up RF energy (see microwave oven for details). Ergo, shooting your signal through trees is a big signal loss. The way most people do this is to first get a Windsurfer antenna (look it up), cheap to free, works pretty well for the price. If that doesn't work, get one of the flat panels. If that doesn't work put amps in between the antenna and RC. That's where I am at the moment and I live in a 20 million acre forest full of 200 foot soggy wet trees. YMMV.

But in your case, the difference between the P3 and P4 (in terms of range) is dwarfed by the evil water absorption line at 2.4 Ghz. This is a semi annoying article as to how we got there.

The nice thing about DJI stuff is that there is a healthy aftermarket for things like this.
 
Thanks for the info WetDog. So range aside, is the P4 reliable enough that if you had to go out today and replace your P3P would you buy the P4 or go back with a P3P? I want something I'm not terrified will fly away every time I take it up. I want one I can just enjoy the heck out of flying. Oh and take beautiful cinematic shots along the way. Is that too much to ask?


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