Phantom 3 to Mavic conversion - unboxing and pics

Couple of questions...hoping this thread isn't dead...

I just ordered a P3 Conversion from SnapGiz.
Blades...I want the folding ones, but they are discontinued on the SnapGiz site. This is the note on the site:
"Note: These folding props have been recalled now, we will let you know our facebook page when it will be available again."
Does anyone know where I can get some folding props?

How/Where can I obtain a printed Gimbal Lock for the completed Phavic?

I see ONLY white conversions. Is there an issue with painting the shell or applying a vinyl wrap?

Somewhat off topic, but I'd like to try some FPV with this rig. I want something low cost, under $100. Can anyone recommend a headset that I can use with my phone? Do I need special software/app to do this?
 
Couple of questions...hoping this thread isn't dead...

I just ordered a P3 Conversion from SnapGiz.
Blades...I want the folding ones, but they are discontinued on the SnapGiz site. This is the note on the site:
"Note: These folding props have been recalled now, we will let you know our facebook page when it will be available again."
Does anyone know where I can get some folding props?

How/Where can I obtain a printed Gimbal Lock for the completed Phavic?

I see ONLY white conversions. Is there an issue with painting the shell or applying a vinyl wrap?

Somewhat off topic, but I'd like to try some FPV with this rig. I want something low cost, under $100. Can anyone recommend a headset that I can use with my phone? Do I need special software/app to do this?

A few things - Blades, I used these;

2 pair 9443 Self-Locking 2-Blade Foldable Propeller Prop for DJI Phantom 2 3 | eBay

You'll have to make your own gimbal lock. I made one from the stock one you received with the original package. I don't think you'll have issues with painting the shell, I've seen some people make their own decals/ wrap for their birds.

Here are some pics of the gimbal lock I made, it works ok
Gimbal lock 1.jpg
Gimbal Lock 2.jpg
 
Anyone "piggybacked" the original LEDs with the kit LEDs? I saw that someone was getting a WiFi issue when they did that and they had to choose one or the other.
 
Yesterday I went out and completed several flights to include a range check, about 1/4 mile plus, no issues. I put the stock props on and opened it up - 39.9 mph! Flight duration between 13 - 15 minutes depending on how you fly. Battery temps at landing between 52C - 59C.

My Build..
IMG_1364.JPG
 
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Anyone "piggybacked" the original LEDs with the kit LEDs? I saw that someone was getting a WiFi issue when they did that and they had to choose one or the other.
Yep, I did it with my P3S conversion, kit lights did not illuminate, but stock ones were super bright. Caused wifi issues, have no idea why. Cut the wires to the kit LEDs and it worked flawlessly.
 
Venting will obviously help, but I think its more than that.

My guess is when DJI designed these drones, they calculated the required current draw based on the motors (required current) and minimal wire size and length from the mother board to the motors. In completing this mod we are lengthening the wires to each motor without increasing the diameter of the wire. Greater wire length = greater distance of current to travel = greater resistance = greater current draw on the battery = heat. I'm thinking if we went to the next size wire, this might alleviate some of the resistance based on the increased length thus reducing the current draw on the battery.

Just my guess. If there's an electrical engineer out there I'm all ears!
 
Just stumbled into this thread. This is pretty cool!

Longer wires to motors = more resistance to motors = less ability to deliver current to the motors.

Thinking in simple terms, that shouldn't cause so much more heat in the battery pack, but I don't know what sort of feedback mechanism there is with those motors and their controller. It's possible that the controller, seeking a certain RPM, could go nuts pumping power trying to get those RPMs.

Shouldn't be hard to replace those wires from end to end with a gauge or two heavier, no?
 
Shouldn't be hard to replace those wires from end to end with a gauge or two heavier, no?

No, and in retrospect I should have done that. I'm considering doing this conversion to a P3P. Will definitely put this on the list of learning experiences.
 
This is a bit off topic, but does anyone have any experience with third party batteries? All the threads I'm looking at go on about losing warranty, but since none of us clearly worry about that anymore (due to the nature of the Phavic mod, lol) can you guys recommend any cheap batteries?

I feel like due to the many other dangers of the Phavic mod, an off-brand battery is the least of my worries. So might as well buy three of those for the price of one official one...as long as they work with the newest firmware. Any thoughts?
 
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Also try Toby deals as its UK and is about £70 too for official batteries. I did order a 3rd party from aliexpress with no issues on the battery at all
 
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Ok so just finished the phantom mavic mod and now only one of my motors is firing, all connections are solid as well as all my solder points, I test flew my P3 se b4 doing the mod and everything was ship shape, now I'm ready to throw things, you have any ideas??

Please and Thank you!!!
 
Ok so just finished the phantom mavic mod and now only one of my motors is firing, all connections are solid as well as all my solder points, I test flew my P3 se b4 doing the mod and everything was ship shape, now I'm ready to throw things, you have any ideas??

Please and Thank you!!!
Well, short answer is that the solder points aren't right. More specifically, the Phantom ESCs are very picky about resistance. You either have too much or too little solder on those points, or you didn't cut the cables short enough. The latter thing might not matter though, as one motor works.
 
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Well, short answer is that the solder points aren't right. More specifically, the Phantom ESCs are very picky about resistance. You either have too much or too little solder on those points, or you didn't cut the cables short enough. The latter thing might not matter though, as one motor works.

So I should gol thru and recheck all of my solder points and possibly shorten all of my cables? My p3 bus giving me no error codes of any sort, ready to go GPS, amd a gimbal error, which i expected since my ribbon cable was torn and this AM replacement I received doesn' seem to be working.....
 

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