P3 Standard Motor Replacement nightmare

Thanks... Unfortunately the 4 new motors were all spliced. I am one sad dude and realize I should have checked the threads first. Who would have thought ugh

What I would try doing is cut off the heat shrink, remove all the solder, and use a razorblade and/or sandpaper on every wires until you have it nice and shiny. These wires may have varnish on them that's preventing proper connection. Do it for all four motors and see if that fixes the problem. I've also seen people claim that liquid flux works, but physical removal of the barrier is your best shot
 
First of all hello fellow enthusiasts! What a time we live in to be able to join such wonderful tech.

So, bare with me but I need help. First of all a serious warning to any of you that will need to remove your shell to access your motors and circuit board. It all started by simply wanting to remove the guards and clips that are attached with screws that also secure your motor. All I wanted to do was remove those and fly the bare drone safely in an open area. Seems simple enough! NOPE!! I reinserted my screws and they protruded through the base of the motor to secure and some... They went so far up and pushed the motor coils into the prop and motor is toast. I bought a replacement and secured it with electrical rosen core solder. Now when I start the drone, only one motor twitches back and forth. Everything is updated and calibrated. I cannot get the engines to start. I decided to secure the guard clips back on to prevent the little bastard screws from destroying another motor.
That being said, is there a way to check if the power is going to each motor before securing the shell a second time? The led's light up but again, no response. I did not buy this drone brand new and got a screaming deal on ebay. It worked like a charm until I screwed the screws into the engine coils and I am now grounded indefinitely. I am so bummed that I am considering blowing my check on another one to get rid of this headache and keep this one for spare parts. Your help is appreciated and thank you in advance fellas and ladies
There is a coating on the wire leads from the board AND motors you need to LIGHTLY sand off, then solder. I've done mine before. Been there, done that. ;)
 
I use the quick disconnects (QD) on my quad along with the metal plates to reinforce the motor mount area. They gave me longer screws with the QD but they weren't long enough to use on the QD and the metal plates. I ended up drilling down into the QD the thickness of the screw head which made them long enough. I saved and marked the original screws so if I ever removed the added parts, I would know which screws were the correct ones to put back in.
 
A twitchy motor usually means one phase of the motor is open circuit. Which is exactly what could happen if you screwed straight into the one of the coils. Be careful not to keep the power on if a motor is twitching, you stand a very good chance of killing the ESC.
 
That could mean that I bought 4 new motors and cut them to splice and ruined them. Thus needing to buy 4 more... gulp. I appreciate your input but man I hope you are wrong... Fingers crossed mate

Is it possible to simply replace the whole wire from the Motor to the ESC or are the wires internally connected at the motor?
 
You don’t want to splice wires.

Replace motor and reconnect at the ESC terminals.

The wire has an aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket) and will cause issues if/when spliced.
 
You don’t want to splice wires.

Replace motor and reconnect at the ESC terminals.

The wire has an aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket) and will cause issues if/when spliced.

Thanks! I received good advice to purchase part number 76 Phantom on eBay already assembled. All I do is screw it in and attach the gimbal and I'm back in the air.
 
Incorrect.
You don’t want to splice wires.

Replace motor and reconnect at the ESC terminals.

The wire has an aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket) and will cause issues if/when spliced.
This is complete and utter bunk. Splicing the wires is easy, peasy and zero issues.

The "aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket)" is nothing more than coating of plastic on the wire strands. Lightly sand off, solder, and cover. No difference in operation from any other P3. SMH
 
Incorrect.

This is complete and utter bunk. Splicing the wires is easy, peasy and zero issues.

The "aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket)" is nothing more than coating of plastic on the wire strands. Lightly sand off, solder, and cover. No difference in operation from any other P3. SMH

Not everyone here is a skilled lineman. If one has to ask that is my assumption.

There are numerous threads here where folks have had issues due to this. Some strip and twist with wirenuts, others have used crimp types. It’s safe and conservative advice.

If your able to solder reconnect/replace to the ESC.

That’s my advice.
 
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Not everyone here is a skilled lineman. If one has to ask that is my assumption.
Assumptions are the mother of all 'F'-ups...If one has the inclination to open up a phantom under the guise of repair, one has the ability to "lightly sand the plastic coating off the wire strands" and solder together. :rolleyes:

But the thing you completely ignore with your "advice" is the fact that the wire is the same all the way thru. Meaning, if you think it is better to solder at the ESC, you still need to remove the coating on the wire strands in order to solder to the ESC/MoBo... :eek::confused:;)

My being a lineman plays zero part in any of this. A lineman is not an electronics repair person. I was given the sanding advice right here, on this very forum. o_O

You really should give advice based on fact and NOT "assumption".
 
Incorrect.

This is complete and utter bunk. Splicing the wires is easy, peasy and zero issues.

The "aggressive insulator (not just the outer jacket)" is nothing more than coating of plastic on the wire strands. Lightly sand off, solder, and cover. No difference in operation from any other P3. SMH

Guess you are the anomaly. I do electrical work and could not get it to connect. bought a new bird. lol @ smh
 
Guess you are the anomaly. I do electrical work and could not get it to connect. bought a new bird. lol @ smh
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WTF?! LOL! Y'all seem to think this is some sort of special, magical even, wire DJI uses...It isn't. It is a coated, stranded wire that in order to solder, requires the removal of said coating. I am far from being "an anomaly" as I was told this right here in this forum. It isn't difficult and I have explained what needs to be done.
 

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