Phantom 3 Standard- Weird problem

I gue

Where is P3S in this?

#1 P3S to Remote is linked?

#2 Remote to Mobile Device is linked?

Rod ..
P3S is not licked to anything because it refuses to link no matter how much I’ve tried the only that links are Remote to mobile device
 
Thanks, if you can't link to the P3S to the Remote, the mobile app will never do it.

My P3S remote is.
Model: GL358wA
What is yours?

The WiFi part of your remote that talks to your mobile device is good.
I going to charge mine up, so I can remember the beep patterns, etc.

Typing this out, I don't think it is the remote.
I will get back tomorrow

Rod ..
 
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Thanks, if you can't link to the P3S to the Remote, the mobile app will never do it.

My P3S remote is.
Model: GL358wA
What is yours?

The WiFi part of your remote that talks to your mobile device is good.
I going to charge mine up, so I can remember the beep patterns, etc.

Typing this out, I don't think it is the remote.
I will get back tomorrow

Rod ..
I don’t think it’s the remote either as it has worked with this drone before
 
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Honestly I am pretty good with technology and in the Mobile repair and Pc building world, but I can’t seem to figure it out only the little red light comes on and the Motors beep that’s it also it does get pretty hot
Coming back to this clue again . What got hot ? Cam or gimble, area .might have cooked a ribbon cable or gimble board that controls wifi also and seen them burn in the past
Also by any chance have you opened the shell ? There's components diversity square patch antennas that plug on main board ,they located inside drone shell in battery compartment , I think remote is ok since the drone has the damage, Nothing seems to work to help so I'd be in there before I pay anybody
Still following
 
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Coming back to this clue again . What got hot ? Cam or gimble, area .might have cooked a ribbon cable
Also by any chance have you opened the shell ? There's components diversity square patch antennas that plug on main board ,they located inside drone shell in battery compartment , I think remote is ok since the drone has the damage, Nothing seems to work to help so I'd be in there before I pay anybody
Still following
I think that when the 8pin ribbon cable snapped it started causing a short causing everything to be hot and not letting power go to the gimbal and Strobes it hasn’t gotten hot since
 
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Sweet no heat now good but if you search many have cooked ,
@quaddamage I notice your quite on this but sure could use any of your input and opinion please
I can't offer any more than what's been advised to try without having another cheap gimble or parts to try eliminate it's hard to diagnose ,something in the drone ain't happy , let me in there ,well perform surgery over the web , but in seriousness you done well so far 👨‍🔧👍👍
JUST FOR FUTURE REFERENCE OF GIMBLE PART DISCRIPTION & LOCATION
20241127_105114.jpg
 
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Sweet no heat now good but if you search many have cooked ,
@quaddamage I notice your quite on this but sure could use any of your input and opinion please
I can't offer any more than what's been advised to try without having another cheap gimble or parts to try eliminate it's hard to diagnose ,something in the drone ain't happy , let me in there ,well perform surgery over the web , but in seriousness you done well so far 👨‍🔧👍👍
Thank you, from all your support and advice I’ve got this far on thread!
 
Please summarize the current issue and I can provide some hints.
Had a problem with my Phantom 3 Standard after noticing it would power on but fail to function properly. The only indication of power was the red link button flashing, with no response from the gimbal, strobe lights, or other systems. After some troubleshooting, I discovered the root cause: the 8-pin ribbon cable that connects to the gimbal had been ripped out of its connector. This damage caused a short circuit in the drone’s system, leading to heat buildup and a loss of power to the gimbal and strobe indicator lights.





To address the problem, I disassembled the drone and carefully reconnected all the wires, including the damaged 8-pin ribbon cable. Once everything was properly connected, the drone powered on, and all the systems—gimbal, lights, and basic functionality—appeared to come back online. However, despite these repairs, the drone still refuses to link to the remote controller. Instead, it continuously flashes yellow.





Before this issue, the drone and remote would link without any problems, but since the repair, they’ve failed to connect. I’ve been stuck with this problem ever since, and I’m unsure what might be preventing the link from re-establishing.
 
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Good Summery, the heat build up I missed.
I recall it as you didn't know there was any damage, you found that after you started the thread.

Rod ..
 
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I see. The FC works, the gimbal works, but there is no RC connection.

Ph3 standard has two separate radio links. By separate, I mean even the chips which send and receive are completely separate. One is in the camera board (video link), the other is on ESC Center Board (control + telemetry link).

I never had Ph3 Std, but from reading on the forum it looks like both radios need to be operational in order to perform a linking procedure. But if your RC is already linked, then the control + telemetry link should be enough to establish the connection - some people fly these drones without gimbals.

Yellow diodes on arms are controlled by Flight Controller chip, and that chip only uses the control + telementry link.

So:
* If you've tried to re-link and it failed, it is hard to tell which of the two radios is not working - because both are required for successful relink.
* If you didn't tried that, then FC announcing no RC connection (via yellow lights) suggests that there is an issue with the radio on ESC Center Board.

Open the top cover. ESC Center board has 4 Electronic speed controllers on it, plus a few DC-DC converters for power delivery. But that board is also a base for two daughterboards: the FC board and the radio board.

Examine carefully if the daughterboards are sitting correctly, are not damaged, and the places where they are soldered to ESC Center Board and not ripped/teared. Sometimes a crack on solder joint is hard to see, look carefully.

The radio link daugherboard needs to be connected to the FC daughterboard so that the UART packets with control commands and telemetry can be exchanged.

If you have a multimeter, check whether the Radio daughterboard gets power, and whether the lines connecting the boards work. Try starting the drone while constantly pressing on the radio board - if it will behave differently, that confirms ripped solder joints.

Some details on each board and how they work, you can find here:
 
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@quaddamage , Wow!

@LOVE NZ
You came up some really good P3* mother board pics on a different thread.

@quaddamage, I view your posts as based on the current facts.
I see it and get it 👌

Rod ..
 
I see. The FC works, the gimbal works, but there is no RC connection.

Ph3 standard has two separate radio links. By separate, I mean even the chips which send and receive are completely separate. One is in the camera board (video link), the other is on ESC Center Board (control + telemetry link).

I never had Ph3 Std, but from reading on the forum it looks like both radios need to be operational in order to perform a linking procedure. But if your RC is already linked, then the control + telemetry link should be enough to establish the connection - some people fly these drones without gimbals.

Yellow diodes on arms are controlled by Flight Controller chip, and that chip only uses the control + telementry link.

So:
* If you've tried to re-link and it failed, it is hard to tell which of the two radios is not working - because both are required for successful relink.
* If you didn't tried that, then FC announcing no RC connection (via yellow lights) suggests that there is an issue with the radio on ESC Center Board.

Open the top cover. ESC Center board has 4 Electronic speed controllers on it, plus a few DC-DC converters for power delivery. But that board is also a base for two daughterboards: the FC board and the radio board.

Examine carefully if the daughterboards are sitting correctly, are not damaged, and the places where they are soldered to ESC Center Board and not ripped/teared. Sometimes a crack on solder joint is hard to see, look carefully.

The radio link daugherboard needs to be connected to the FC daughterboard so that the UART packets with control commands and telemetry can be exchanged.

If you have a multimeter, check whether the Radio daughterboard gets power, and whether the lines connecting the boards work. Try starting the drone while constantly pressing on the radio board - if it will behave differently, that confirms ripped solder joints.

Some details on each board and how they work, you can find here:
I’ll do all of this soon what you mentioned up here thank you so much!
 
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I was thinking this morning.
Everything was good last time you flew it.
Then you found the damaged ribbon cable.
No clue how this would of happened, But it was used. (Do you have any kids) :)

Now your going deeper into this problem. 👍
"the heat build up" Is this a short?

Something else got burnt at that time?

What else I like on these forums.
If somebody sees something that is incorrect, it will be clarified👍

Rod ..
 
I was thinking this morning.
Everything was good last time you flew it.
Then you found the damaged ribbon cable.
No clue how this would of happened, But it was used. (Do you have any kids) :)

Now your going deeper into this problem. 👍
"the heat build up" Is this a short?

Something else got burnt at that time?

What else I like on these forums.
If somebody sees something that is incorrect, it will be clarified👍

Rod ..
Don’t have kids 🤣 but it used to get really hot before I fixed the cable issue I don’t know what that was but Saturday I’m getting it opened up by a drone shop near me, I’ll update yall on what I find
 
@LOVE NZ

Were you the one that posted many motherboard pictures related to the P3's like 3 :rolleyes:

Only thing I can remember at that time was I was confused about the P3SE signals and the P3S.

Rod ..
 
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@LOVE NZ

The one I was thinking about.


Rod ..
 
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