New Guy needing advice

[Phil Derrick]

Don't worry you will do fine. I'm a newbie to just try to remember what these guy's say. I did watch a lot of YouTube (and I mean A LOT) you will learn the P4p is a good one to start with. Don't get carried away and because you can fly 2 miles doesn't mean you have to. I keep mine in site and I try not to get distracted. Just have fun it will come to you.

lol I'm glad I'm not the only one ! I think I must have watched every YouTube post available, driving my wife mad !!
Hopefully my drone will come later this week.

Can't wait

 

[Phil Derrick]

Hi There i have two p4s both thd standard and p4p+ bith excellent machines. Its definely worth getting insurance. Speak to Noel st FlyIcarus. They will actually cover both you and your bird. If not then join the bmfa, you get basic cover as standard.

BMFA ? Excuse my ignorance I'm totally new to this.
I did purchase a two year accidental damage insurance.

 

[theleadgeneratio]

BMFA ? Excuse my ignorance I'm totally new to this.
I did purchase a two year accidental damage insurance.

Members Insurance

Its liability insurance incase you pile into anyone or anything basically.

 

[Phil Derrick]

Members Insurance

Its liability insurance incase you pile into anyone or anything basically.

Ah now that's something that I had not thought of...... again more great advice.

I'd got so rapped up with researching what to buy and how to fly it, a liability insurance totally slipped my mind.

 

[Newbieguy]

Remember it’s the little things that will
Get you.

 

[darrell2]

Yea just got my insurance today.

 

[KDCypP4Adv]

That's a great video, thanks a lot.
However I would love to know 2 things:
1. I believe the video refers to only still photos and I think it presumes that the camera is still for that photo so the motion blur refers to whether only the subject is moving (not the drone). Am I correct in saying that when shooting video whilst flying/moving the drone then in most cases the subject is moving relative to the camera sufficiently to have motion blur so the ND filter is advantageous therefore in most video footage?

2. Secondly, I believe that the some/all Phantoms (or maybe only the P4 advanced and pro?) make the adjustment automatically so when using the ND filter there's no adjustment to make as the drone camera knows that the light level is reduced and compensates making it a 'fit and forget' procedure for most sunny day filmings?

I think these 2 points are crucial for newbies to camera settings like me and the OP as such technical explanations though welcome, can leave us thinking a filter is best left for later when we can learn more.

Confirmation from any camera pro reading would be much appreciated.

 

[KDCypP4Adv]

The ipad Air 2 9.7in fits perfectly into the the P4P controller bracket, no need for another mount

This is the 10.5 Ipad Pro which is bigger in the controller

View attachment 89306

I have an air2 and it works brilliantly.
I bought a sun shield on Amazon that works really well at reducing glare on the screen - well worth getting a cheap but sturdy one.
Also parabolic range extenders push fitted on to antenna increase the transmission strength/range (assist even at shorter distances where reception may be reduced for many reasons). They avoid loss of transmission which is 1. Scary when starting out and 2. Annoying if you want to use the transmitted HD footage rather than the large 4K footage that is recorded directly onto the onboard micro SD card (that remains uninterrupted by transmission loss of course).

I also recommend buying a stick that has micro SD card slot, lightning connector and USB for easy transfer of footage and photos without the need for a cable and leaving the drone switched on (many advantages re speed of transfer, heat of drone left on without flying and unnecessary battery wear and tear).

Hope above is of help - I wouldn't buy a drone without these now - been so useful.

 

[msinger]

Am I correct in saying that when shooting video whilst flying/moving the drone then in most cases the subject is moving relative to the camera sufficiently to have motion blur so the ND filter is advantageous therefore in most video footage?

ND filters can be useful in any video footage where there is any kind of movement. It doesn't matter whether the drone is in a fixed position and the subject is moving, the subject is in a fixed position and the drone is moving, or both are moving. However, if you're flying high in the sky where motion is not as obvious, the added motion blur probably won't make much of a difference.

I believe that the some/all Phantoms (or maybe only the P4 advanced and pro?) make the adjustment automatically so when using the ND filter there's no adjustment to make as the drone camera knows that the light level is reduced and compensates making it a 'fit and forget' procedure for most sunny day filmings?

If you're using a polarized filter solely to cut down the reflections on surfaces like water, then you can keep the camera settings on auto and let the camera auto adjust as you fly. If you're using ND filters to add motion blur, then you'll be shooting video with the camera in manual mode. When in manual mode, the camera will not auto adjust when the light changes.

 

[KDCypP4Adv]

If you're using ND filters to add motion blur, then you'll be shooting video with the camera in manual mode. When in manual mode, the camera will not auto adjust when the light changes.

Thanks for your replies, but I'm now confused. You say above "to ADD motion blur" but the video states the only purpose if the ND filter is to REMOVE motion blur.

My question was "by fitting the ND filter to reduce motion blur, can you leave the camera in auto mode?" so the camera will compensate for the lower light by adjusting the exposure rather than having to do this manually.

 

[msinger]

the video states the only purpose if the ND filter is to REMOVE motion blur.

The video states that ND filters allow you to set the correct shutter speed to get the correct amount of motion blur. Start watching here to see that part of the video.

My question was "by fitting the ND filter to reduce motion blur, can you leave the camera in auto mode?"

Fitting an ND filter does nothing but reduce the light that's coming into the camera. When the light is reduced, that allows the shutter speed to be reduced. And reducing the shutter speed allows motion blur to be added. I suppose you could get into a scenario where the light is just right and the shutter speed is perfect when the camera is in auto, but it's an likely scenario. Plus, you don't want the camera settings automatically changing throughout different parts of your footage.

 

[Bazza.]

Thanks for your replies, but I'm now confused. You say above "to ADD motion blur" but the video states the only purpose if the ND filter is to REMOVE motion blur.

My question was "by fitting the ND filter to reduce motion blur, can you leave the camera in auto mode?" so the camera will compensate for the lower light by adjusting the exposure rather than having to do this manually.

In aviation terms think of ND filters like a mixture control for light. ND stands for Neutral Density. So what it does is reduce light without changing colour balance, this allows you to either accept the recorded footage or do some post recording work on your pc to adjust the colours etc. (Quality sunglasses might be a better comparison)

Without the filter the camera may well auto adjust your settings but in very bright light it will find it difficult to see/pick out objects in shadows and the like OR it may adjust for the shadows and the bright areas will wash out/ go so bright you can’t get any detail back even in post recording.

Filters tend to keep the darks and lights within a more manageable spectrum for the camera (or you) to work with.

Motion blur, is a product of shutter speed. If the camera is on auto in bright light it will set a very fast shutter speed to counter the light which will eliminate motion blur.

For technical work or if you want to be able to pick crisp stills/photos off your footage you don’t want motion blur, but if your filming people or anything moving around it looks better with a bit of blur.

I’m also a newby with a PPL, got my phantom 4pro about 3 weeks ago, your gonna love it.

Edit : I just noticed I haven’t replied to the original questioner. Ignore the aviation analogy.

 

[GadgetGuy]

If you're using ND filters to add motion blur, then you'll be shooting video with the camera in manual mode. When in manual mode, the camera will not auto adjust when the light changes.

Huh? Presumably, you selected the correct ND filter before launch, and can then shoot in Auto. If the light changes, you now have a problem. You will have to manually change exposure to maintain your selected shutter speed, which will result in jumps of 1/3 of a stop. By staying in Auto ISO, you can get linear changes in ISO, as the scene gets darker. Manual mode only helps if you have control over the aperture. If you want to avoid the hassle of ND filters altogether, you can set your shutter speed manually, and then adjust the aperture accordingly on the P4P, although diffraction may become an issue at f/11 and above.

*edited for clarity

 

[Bazza.]

Huh? Presumably, you selected the correct ND filter before launch, and can then shoot in Auto. If the light changes, you simply adjust the the Auto exposure setting, to maintain your selected shutter speed. No need for manual mode with ND filters. If you want to avoid the hassle of ND filters altogether, you can set your shutter speed manually, and then adjust the aperture accordingly on the P4P, although diffraction may become an issue at f/11 and above.

Auto mode adjusts the exposure during filming? This will lead to jumps in picture quality/brightness during playback that can’t be edited out. ND filters bring the light spectrum in allowing a single iso/shutter speed to deal with a continuous shot of varying light. That way you can control both motion blur and exposure easier.

 

[rodgerbwg]

Just lost my license flying the real thing so, I am just about to venture into a new hobby!
But with all the research I've done I'm still a little confused !

I'm about to buy a P4 as my first ever drone but my dilemma is do I buy the Pro or the Pro + ?
If anyone can share their knowledge with me I'd be grateful.

Thanks in Advance

Phil

It seems that there are still a few problems with the + in that the app freezes or crashes all together (hope that is not why you lost your License to fly the real thing) The biggest issue is that you cannot use any third party Apps. I use an iPad Mini 4 with Cellular and it is the perfect Tablet in my opinion. I have never had an issue with it.

 

[Phil Derrick]

It seems that there are still a few problems with the + in that the app freezes or crashes all together (hope that is not why you lost your License to fly the real thing) The biggest issue is that you cannot use any third party Apps. I use an iPad Mini 4 with Cellular and it is the perfect Tablet in my opinion. I have never had an issue with it.

Lol if I crashed the real thing I probably wouldn't be talking on this forum.

 

[GadgetGuy]

Auto mode adjusts the exposure during filming? This will lead to jumps in picture quality/brightness during playback that can’t be edited out. ND filters bring the light spectrum in allowing a single iso/shutter speed to deal with a continuous shot of varying light. That way you can control both motion blur and exposure easier.

Of course Auto Exposure adjusts the exposure, as the exposure changes. That's the whole point! Unless you lock it, which you can also do. If the exposure varies, and you are adjusting it manually to maintain ISO 100 and the appropriate shutter speed, as @msinger was suggesting above, you will still be manually jumping by 1/3 stop intervals. No difference!

ND filters do NOT reduce the dynamic range of the scene, as you seem to believe. They merely reduce the amount of light. It's this sort of misinformation that results in everyone buying unnecessary ND filters, when what they really want, if they understood the concept, are Graduated Neutral Density filters, which DO reduce the dynamic range of the scene. If you use a GND filter late in the day to keep the sky from blowing out, as it gets darker, after sunset with Auto ISO, you can get a linear change in exposure in the ISO increase, rather than jumps of 1/3 of a stop.

BTW, if nothing is moving in your scene, there is no point in using an ND filter to create a motion blur, as the video which @msinger cited above, explains. Watch it.

 

[Bazza.]

Of course Auto Exposure adjusts the exposure, as the exposure changes. That's the whole point! Unless you lock it, which you can also do. If the exposure varies, and you are adjusting it manually to maintain ISO 100 and the appropriate shutter speed, as @msinger was suggesting above, you will still be manually jumping by 1/3 stop intervals. No difference!

ND filters do NOT reduce the dynamic range of the scene, as you seem to believe. They merely reduce the amount of light. It's this sort of misinformation that results in everyone buying unnecessary ND filters, when what they really want, if they understood the concept, are Graduated Neutral Density filters, which DO reduce the dynamic range of the scene. If you use a GND filter late in the day to keep the sky from blowing out, as it gets darker, after sunset with Auto ISO, you can get a linear change in exposure in the ISO increase, rather than jumps of 1/3 of a stop.

BTW, if nothing is moving in your scene, there is no point in using an ND filter to create a motion blur, as the video which @msinger cited above, explains. Watch it.

“ND filters do NOT reduce the dynamic range of the scene, as you seem to believe”

Who said that then? Not me.

 

[GadgetGuy]

That's a great video, thanks a lot.
However I would love to know 2 things:
1. I believe the video refers to only still photos and I think it presumes that the camera is still for that photo so the motion blur refers to whether only the subject is moving (not the drone). Am I correct in saying that when shooting video whilst flying/moving the drone then in most cases the subject is moving relative to the camera sufficiently to have motion blur so the ND filter is advantageous therefore in most video footage?

2. Secondly, I believe that the some/all Phantoms (or maybe only the P4 advanced and pro?) make the adjustment automatically so when using the ND filter there's no adjustment to make as the drone camera knows that the light level is reduced and compensates making it a 'fit and forget' procedure for most sunny day filmings?

I think these 2 points are crucial for newbies to camera settings like me and the OP as such technical explanations though welcome, can leave us thinking a filter is best left for later when we can learn more.

Confirmation from any camera pro reading would be much appreciated.

I'll give it a stab, as this is, indeed, a very misunderstood subject, with confusion deliberately created by the marketers of ND filters, who would have everyone believe that a full set of overpriced ND filters are a mandatory accessory for every camera drone! They aren't!

1. Incorrect. The instructional video is only about shooting video. There is no such thing as cinematic blur in a still photo. However, if you want intentional motion blur in a still photo of say a waterfall, or waves at the beach, you will want a longer shutterspeed to create the blur, and that may also require an ND filter during the day. For video, if there is no moving subject in your frame, such as a landscape, there is no need for an ND filter. Keep in mind that if you wish to later extract out still frames from your video (4K video creates very printable 16x20 prints and 6-8MB stills), using an ND filter will turn the still extracts into unusable mush, as the blur on a still frame is the same as camera shake, unless that was your artistic intent.

2. All Phantoms are capable of an Auto Exposure mode. Only the P4P and P4A have aperture control, which can be used to manually maintain the shutter speed at a fixed value without resorting to ND filters (by adjusting the aperture), or in combination with ND filters. You can only select one ND filter value before launch. Unlike a still or movie camera on the ground, you cannot adjust the ND value in flight by using a variable ND filter because you can't touch the filter. So, if the lighting changes, ideally, you would land and put on the correct different ND filter. If you don't do that, everything else is a compromise.

If you cannot adjust the aperture manually, as on the P3 series and original P4, then you must land and put on the correct ND filter, to maintain your chosen shutter speed. Auto exposure will cause your chosen shutter speed to change, even with an ND filter, if the exposure of the scene changes during the shot, as it invariably will. Murphy's Law.

 

[GadgetGuy]

“ND filters do NOT reduce the dynamic range of the scene, as you seem to believe”

Who said that then? Not me.

I don't know any other way interpret this statement that you made,
"ND filters bring the light spectrum in allowing a single iso/shutter speed to deal with a continuous shot of varying light."
At least we agree on the main point of confusion for many.