More questions ... Back of Controller - strange hole ?

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In the lower back panel of the Transmitter Controller is a hole next to the bottom right screw ... that has an arrow and a circle with X in it moulded into the plastic.

I cannot find any reference to it in the manual.

I would like to find an alternative way to charge the Transmitter instead of USB ... I believe the other versions have different charge systems ?

Nigel
 
In the lower back panel of the Transmitter Controller is a hole next to the bottom right screw ... that has an arrow and a circle with X in it moulded into the plastic.

I cannot find any reference to it in the manual.

I would like to find an alternative way to charge the Transmitter instead of USB ... I believe the other versions have different charge systems ?

Nigel

What's wrong with USB into the wall?
 
In the lower back panel of the Transmitter Controller is a hole next to the bottom right screw ... that has an arrow and a circle with X in it moulded into the plastic.
That hole is of no use. The remote controller design is shared with the P2V+. It looks like DJI just used the same design as-is.
 
Its doing the job ... but my USB wall charger is only 1A.

Other guys in my club have the Advanced and Pro versions with round pin chargers. So I was just asking about the hole in back of the Tx case ...

Nigel
 
That hole is of no use. The remote controller design is shared with the P2V+. It looks like DJI just used the same design as-is.

Tks for quick reply.
 
FYI, on the P2V+ remote controller, that hole is used to change the remote controller between FCC and CE mode. Here are more details from the P2V+ manual:


FCC.jpg
 
Tks for that ... of course looking inside the P3S controller - that little 'gem' is not there !

Nigel
 
Nope. All P3 remote controllers auto set the FCC/CE mode by the Phantom's current GPS location.
 
And is why I understand the other threads about changing the program lines

Cheers

Nigel
 
Its doing the job ... but my USB wall charger is only 1A.

Other guys in my club have the Advanced and Pro versions with round pin chargers. So I was just asking about the hole in back of the Tx case ...

Nigel
1 amp charger is really insufficient to charge the remote, good for small cell phone basically. I would never use anything less than 1.5 and up to accomplish the task.

Sent from my HTC 10 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
i have a 2A USB adaptor in the car that works of the ciggy 12V ....

The 1A wall charger has done the job ... and I've ordered a 2A job ...

Most RC Tx's actually should not have more than 1A passed through their charge sockets - I'm talking about normal RC Tx's like Futaba, JR, Spekie, 9X etc. - because the diode protection and wiring is not rated for higher.

Nigel
 
i have a 2A USB adaptor in the car that works of the ciggy 12V ....

The 1A wall charger has done the job ... and I've ordered a 2A job ...

Most RC Tx's actually should not have more than 1A passed through their charge sockets - I'm talking about normal RC Tx's like Futaba, JR, Spekie, 9X etc. - because the diode protection and wiring is not rated for higher.

Nigel
I always use either a 1.5 or 2amp never had any issues yet. But now most of my charges have the smart ID technology which is supposed to adjust the output according to the device it's connected to.

Sent from my HTC 10 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
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The 'smart' part is only really detecting how many cells and the resistance. You can still blow a battery pack by too high a rate of AMPS.

Without taking the back of my Tx ... anyone care to say what are the cells in it ? NiMh, LiIon, LiPo, LiFe ?

Nigel
 
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The 'smart' part is only really detecting how many cells and the resistance. You can still blow a battery pack by too high a rate of AMPS.

Without taking the back of my Tx ... anyone care to say what are the cells in it ? NiMh, LiIon, LiPo, LiFe ?

Nigel
Li-Ion. It's basically an 18650 with pigtails, like the one below.

518TFluktkL._SL1000_.jpg
 
Many thanks
 

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