adanac said:
What is the anti-interference reinforcement board? Is this something that only the H3-D3 needs? Why?
H3-3D Anti-interference Reinforcement Board
- Thread starter blue frog
- Start date
What is the anti-interference reinforcement board? Is this something that only the H3-D3 needs? Why?
It wasn't clear what this part is for, and i thought it is optional, for may be some POV camera connections or something else, so i just put it back into the box and forget about it,
then **** start to happen to my setup, video was shaky and the phantom was really drifty, i even went to the local hobby store to spend $100 for 'tune up', but as you can guess it did nothing, then, thank God, i saw that video on Youtube, took that board from the box, installed it and now video is back to normal, phantom is still hooking, but at least video is usable again,
Is it really hard, if not install this piece during assembly, just to put a red sticker on the bag this board is being delivered in
-INSTALL THIS FIRST!
DJI?
then **** start to happen to my setup, video was shaky and the phantom was really drifty, i even went to the local hobby store to spend $100 for 'tune up', but as you can guess it did nothing, then, thank God, i saw that video on Youtube, took that board from the box, installed it and now video is back to normal, phantom is still hooking, but at least video is usable again,
Is it really hard, if not install this piece during assembly, just to put a red sticker on the bag this board is being delivered in
-INSTALL THIS FIRST!
DJI?
bzpop said:
I am constantly amazed by folks who blame DJI because they did not read the instructions, could not comprehend the instructions that they read and/or did not install a supplied part properly.
Just found/work through this tread, so sorry if this has already been covered...xpsje said:
Given how finicky the 3D is, and how it almost buzzes its motors while active, I wouldn't be surprised if the board is a much for the gimbal as it is for video interference.
I'm also having jello issues, even at 60 fps, on the 3D that were never a problem on the 2D at 30 fps.
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Just want to chime in here. We had bad jello problems, then fitted the anti-interference board in DJI's recommended location (screwed into the interior of the aircraft, not velcroed/taped to the outside underbelly). Jello almost completely gone after we did that.
My video was fine with H3-3D until I added FPV. Constant bad Jello showed up, added anti-interference board today, jello is gone. The board did nothing for my monitor reception, looks exactly the same.
I just installed a H3-3D the other day... I also thought the anti-interference board was optional, but even after all the firmware updates and everything the gimbal was still making a crazy whining noise and had a vibration that was noticeable to the touch. All I did was install the AI board and poof. vibration, noise all gone, gimbal acts normally
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So for those of us who DID NOT receive an Anti-interference Reinforcement Board with their H3-3D's, are we expected to fork out another $20 out-of-pocket? Has anyone had any luck acquiring this part as a retrofit for no additional cost?
My first and second H3-3D came with the board. I didn't install it on my first one and it worked fine. The first gimbal would seem to lose power every now and then and go limp. I found an update that fixed that and it worked perfectly until I ended up sinking it in a lake. Just got another setup yesterday and all seems well. No jello, no limp. And no interference board has been installed. Take that how you will, but it works fine for me. For now......
cowfur said:
The interference board would only be needed if you were getting power interference in your FPV video. It doesn't do anything else.
QYV said:
It appears I cannot cite an official source. I offer my apologies and should have prefaced that statement as my opinion.
It is my opinion that the board is a simple power filter. It's akin to a "hum bucker" used to eliminate power interference in an analog video signal. The only credible, albeit not official, information I could find in my quick search was here.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... count=1640
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... count=1626
QYV said:
No worries man. I like to check out statements passed as fact also. I guess I had never read anything official from DJI. I just remembered reading the endless debates when they first came out about that board. I work in the video industry and we would occasionally use hum buckers to clean up analog video signals. The problem was almost always caused by a bad ground somewhere. It was usually easier to slap on a hum bucker than to trace down the culprit sometimes. They mainly collect dust now that everything's moved to digital. Anyway, I'm convinced that the interfernce board was rushed out to combat the crappy video coming from the original h3-3d. However, it doesn't work very well at all. Then dji switched the output from the hero port over to USB to further rectify the problem. So until I stumble across some evidence to the contrary, that's what I'm going with.
My P2 came with the H3-2D gimble and when this gimble died I ordered a replacement H3-3D gimble which came with the anti-interference board and the ribbon camera cable for the Go-Pro mini-USB port. This was ver. 2 of the H3-3D gimble. The ribbon- cable-to-camera cracked/tore almost immediately. A fix was required, and I really did not like that external ribbon cable-to-camera connection since I usually inserted/removed the micro-SD card after each flight.
Although I also ordered the upgrade kit (mount extender and taller landing gear) I decided to simply drill a 1-1/8 Inch hole in the phantom undercarriage to accommodate the upper stepper motor and not use the mounting extender. I also removed the camera mount plate that came with the 3D and substituted the camera mount plate and camera connector from the 2D so that the fragile ribbon cable to the mini-USB camera port was not necessary.
This also required installing the 3D circuit board from the 3D camera mount plate into the 2D mount plate (some ribbon cable dis-connect/re-connect required, not a task for the easily intimidated). Camera connection was again via the connector on the rear of the Go-Pro, and is apparently similar to the ver.1 of the H3-3D gimble.
I did not initially install the anti-interference board >> FPV seems to work fine without it. It's still in the box. I have not flown >800M, but no picture degrade to date.
Comments appreciated.
Although I also ordered the upgrade kit (mount extender and taller landing gear) I decided to simply drill a 1-1/8 Inch hole in the phantom undercarriage to accommodate the upper stepper motor and not use the mounting extender. I also removed the camera mount plate that came with the 3D and substituted the camera mount plate and camera connector from the 2D so that the fragile ribbon cable to the mini-USB camera port was not necessary.
This also required installing the 3D circuit board from the 3D camera mount plate into the 2D mount plate (some ribbon cable dis-connect/re-connect required, not a task for the easily intimidated). Camera connection was again via the connector on the rear of the Go-Pro, and is apparently similar to the ver.1 of the H3-3D gimble.
I did not initially install the anti-interference board >> FPV seems to work fine without it. It's still in the box. I have not flown >800M, but no picture degrade to date.
Comments appreciated.
Toddzilla said:
Are you saying you replaced the entire camera cradle assembly, and not just added the rear port from the H3-2D? I was under the impression you could just use the port in the H3-3D cradle...no need to swap the little IMU boards or anything.
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Dear Mike,Mike said:Anyway, I'm convinced that the interference board was rushed out to combat the crappy video coming from the original h3-3d. However, it doesn't work very well at all. Then DJI switched the output from the hero port over to USB to further rectify the problem. So until I stumble across some evidence to the contrary, that's what I'm going with.
Would you please elaborate on that statement (highlighted in RED above). I just purchased a first generation H3-3D Gimbal with the Hero Port connector on it because so many people were complaining about the flimsy USB / Ribbon connector setup, and an Anti-interference Reinforcement Board (since it did not come with one) out of pocket to go with it. I haven't installed it yet, so I don't know what to expect.
I'd like to hear more from your viewpoint as to why you think the first generation H3-3D Gimbals are inferior. . . :?
OI Photo:
Yes, I replaced the 3D camera cradle assembly with the 2D camera cradle assembly (and also switched the circuit board... ie. used the board from the 3D). The two most difficult steps were:
1. changing the cradle assemblies...required removing a set screw which is under the ribbon cable which connects to the input of the circuit board in the camera cradle assembly. The 2D cradle assembly will accomodate the 3D circuit board and will allow the camera connector to be screwed in place (ie. like the original 2D cradle AND like the ver.1 of the earlier 3D).
2. connecting the ribbon cables to each end of the circuit board (ie. the input and output connector assemblies which require one to unlock, change circuit boards, and then relock the connector at each end of the 3D circuit board). The circuit board and the camera connector are then both screwed to the 2D cradle assembly.
An earlier post (??? location) by someone else who did this exchange of a 3D to 2D camera cradle documented that he had to use the 3D circuit board to get the project to work correctly. He apparently initially left the 2D circuit board in place but it did not work.
Yes, I replaced the 3D camera cradle assembly with the 2D camera cradle assembly (and also switched the circuit board... ie. used the board from the 3D). The two most difficult steps were:
1. changing the cradle assemblies...required removing a set screw which is under the ribbon cable which connects to the input of the circuit board in the camera cradle assembly. The 2D cradle assembly will accomodate the 3D circuit board and will allow the camera connector to be screwed in place (ie. like the original 2D cradle AND like the ver.1 of the earlier 3D).
2. connecting the ribbon cables to each end of the circuit board (ie. the input and output connector assemblies which require one to unlock, change circuit boards, and then relock the connector at each end of the 3D circuit board). The circuit board and the camera connector are then both screwed to the 2D cradle assembly.
An earlier post (??? location) by someone else who did this exchange of a 3D to 2D camera cradle documented that he had to use the 3D circuit board to get the project to work correctly. He apparently initially left the 2D circuit board in place but it did not work.
I didn't mean to imply that the first gens were inferior. I think the hero port interface is a way better design than the USB ribbon cable. However, I own a first gen and have electrical interference in my analog video feed. The anti-interference board doesn't get rid of all of it (or even most of it). I've read the posts of others removing the camera power in the gimbal cable and solving the issue. I'm still trying to find a solution without cutting the power out completely. Unfortunately, I've been on the road more than I've been home this summer and just haven't had the time to look into it further. I'll report back if and when I ever find an alternate solution.ATC Drone Flyer said:
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