dyeing props gone?

Im no expert here guys, but I don't think this is a good idea.

I come from many years of flying collective pitch RC helicopters and good set of blades are usually balanced and weighted from the factory. A bad set of blades would cause the helicopter's aerodynamics to become unpredictable and the helli would bounce up and down in a hover. Putting any type of uneven
weight on the blades is like flying with a VW on the wing.

I seriously doubt there is any issue here. This isnt a coating - it's actually penetrating and dying the plastic. It's also consistently applied, and has to weigh almost nothing compared to the props themselves.
 
I seriously doubt there is any issue here. This isnt a coating - it's actually penetrating and dying the plastic. It's also consistently applied, and has to weigh almost nothing compared to the props themselves.
You are correct. There was no change in weight on a scale and no change in balance. I always balance my props, and the dye did not change anything.
 
Can you do a step by step, about how you did yours? temps, when you put them in, etc
1) I grabbed an empty weigh protein container I had in the garage.
2) Turned on the hot water in the kitchen. After it was hot, I filled the container.
3) I poured about 1/4 of the bottle of Royal Blue Rit dye in the container.
4) I put 4 props in the container. This was about 10:00 pm.
5) The next morning I took the props out and looked at them. They were not as dark as I wanted and had streaks.
6) I put them back in the same container and forgot about them for a day and a half. Total time about 48 hours.
7) I took them out, dried them off and took the pictures above.
 
It's incredibly easy. First, the dye costs about $4.99 a bottle. You put a pot on the stove at least as wide as the props. Heat up the water to between 180-211 degrees (212 is boiling, so just under boiling). Pour in the bottle of dye. Mix well. Drop in props. Stir every min or so for 20 mins. Place pot in stainless steel sink. Run cool water into pot until dye runs out and water is clear. Wipe off props a bit and let them dry. Thats. it.
I'm going to try this method. I don't have the dye in hand, but damager says this is the method recommended by the dye manufacture. Makes sense. The hotter the water, the more the pores in the plastic will expand and absorb more dye. Also like this because it is a little more than twenty minutes compared to 48 hours.


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I have successfully dyed 4 sets of props. by bringing the water to a boil, turn the heat off mix dye thoroughly place the props into the water stir them around every few minutes for around 20 minutes, rinse them under cold water and let them dry on a towel, they come out perfect.
 
lol thats you, not OP. Never mind Op has replied now.
It's not just me, it's the instructions right on the side of the dye product. If you want to take 48 hours, then follow the OP. If you want to follow the manuf instructions, and be done in 20 mins, use post 31.
 
It's not just me, it's the instructions right on the side of the dye product. If you want to take 48 hours, then follow the OP. If you want to follow the manuf instructions, and be done in 20 mins, use post 31.
cant seem to find the dye in Australia :(
 
bb26df21d6b59d9f540471c28525b782.jpg



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I left the burner on the whole time the dye and water were cooking the props. I made sure to keep it around 185 degrees.. No problems


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[file]Fail Dye attempt|none|border[/file]

After an hour in a below boiling solution, some areas had a slight pink tint. The locking bracket took the dye just fine. I am going to paint the guards this afternoon with paint made for plastic. Also if you remove the black lines on the guards the OA system remains on. They came off easily with acetone. Not sure how it will fly though. I will find out Friday today it is really windy here.
 
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Hot water method, per the manufacturer, is definitely the way to go. Did this on my lunch break today.
5ac9b516e3ec178f021c99cacac0a6f5.jpg
d63d871580c50e4e48366d06704fc049.jpg
055de7d6cec0d823f52fc0e4e404646d.jpg



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[file]Fail Dye attempt|none|border[/file]

After an hour in a below boiling solution, some areas had a slight pink tint. The locking bracket took the dye just fine. I am going to paint the guards this afternoon with paint made for plastic. Also if you remove the black lines on the guards the OA system remains on. They came off easily with acetone. Not sure how it will fly though. I will find out Friday today it is really windy here.


I flew today with the front prop guards with the black stripes removed. The CO system remained on but in slow forward flight the OA system would momentarily engage causing a slight breaking about every 20 feet.

Flying with green painted rear guards actually made orientation easier. I did not notice any change in flight characteristics with the rear guards installed.
 
now the issue i see here is no silver rings... all other colors show them not here tho

Hot water method, per the manufacturer, is definitely the way to go. Did this on my lunch break today.
5ac9b516e3ec178f021c99cacac0a6f5.jpg
d63d871580c50e4e48366d06704fc049.jpg


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