DJI motor cables

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Hotrodspike

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Hi everybody
I'm half way through a Phantom to Mavic conversion, but when I've tried to solder the cables to the extension leads, the solder just will not stick. Just what do DJI put on the leads to stop anybody soldering to them? More to the point how can I get these cables soldered? I'm pretty good at soldering, but this has got me well and truly stumped. I'm using leaded solder and a variable power iron, but the cables refuse to stick. Any body got a clue?
Here's hoping somebody can come up with something.

Thanks everybody

John
 
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Hotrodspike said:
Hi everybody
I'm half way through a Phantom to Mavic conversion, but when I've tried to solder the cables to the extension leads, the solder just will not stick. Just what do DJI put on the leads to stop anybody soldering to them? More to the point how can I get these cables soldered? I'm pretty good at soldering, but this has got me well and truly stumped. I'm using leaded solder and a variable power iron, but the cables refuse to stick. Any body got a clue?
Here's hoping somebody can come up with something.

Thanks everybody

John
Click to expand...
It's a sort of heavy lacquer and a bit of careful sanding and some rosin flux will eventually get a good result.

Installing new ESC Part 33 (old control board) wiring

I am resurrecting a second P3P that crashed last year and has been repaired once. During the crash, a few components popped loose on the ESC and the USB connector plug on the ESC came off completely. I was able to get everything except the USB connector back on and the bird was flying well...
phantompilots.com phantompilots.com
 
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Yeh same recent with a light I was fixing,I had to scrape whole top surface of solder with razor blade before it stick,,this stuff was invisible,,,I thought it was my technic but soon work it out
 
Thanks guys
I've tried to scrape the stuff off with a Stanley knife blade, but the solder still won't stick.
Ive used some really really good flux, that normally cleans anything I put it on, still Teflon (non stick)
I'll be going upstairs after I've drunk my cup of tea, then I'll get some fine wet and dry on it, probably end up with no fingerprints after but, it's got to be done.
I'll keep you updated, same Bat Time, same Bat Channel!
John
 
Hotrodspike said:
Thanks guys
I've tried to scrape the stuff off with a Stanley knife blade, but the solder still won't stick.
Ive used some really really good flux, that normally cleans anything I put it on, still Teflon (non stick)
I'll be going upstairs after I've drunk my cup of tea, then I'll get some fine wet and dry on it, probably end up with no fingerprints after but, it's got to be done.
I'll keep you updated, same Bat Time, same Bat Channel!
John
Click to expand...
The only other possible problems I can think of, assuming you have in fact given the wires a good scraping, is either insufficient power/heat or the quality of your leaded solder. As I'm sure you know, there's 'solder' and there's 'solder'... I always use a brand called Silverline with my Yihua solder station and I've never had any problems. If the solder isn't flowing, but just blobbing and not sticking, I'd go for insufficent power on your iron - or the incorrect tip (too small) being used. What model soldering iron are you using?

But you certainly sound like you know what you're doing and have confidence in your materials/tools too, so I'm sure you'll get there in the end...:)
 
Yes mate, my iron is an expensive station (bought in the sale at Maplins before they went bankrupt, half price) and it's turned up to 11, and the solder itself is some I "acquired" from an electronics expert friend who only ever buys the best. I'm pretty sure it's the stuff on the cables, so I'll have another cup of tea (nothing in the world can withstand the power of tea) and try again. Thanks again

John
 
Hotrodspike said:
Yes mate, my iron is an expensive station (bought in the sale at Maplins before they went bankrupt, half price) and it's turned up to 11, and the solder itself is some I "acquired" from an electronics expert friend who only ever buys the best. I'm pretty sure it's the stuff on the cables, so I'll have another cup of tea (nothing in the world can withstand the power of tea) and try again. Thanks again

John
Click to expand...
OK, thanks John...

When you've finally found out what the problem is, (as I am sure you will), then please share it here. You may have to follow a further process of elimination too once you've sanded both the wire and your fingers away with (possibly) no result....

I'm sure I, and others, would be pleased to know the cause anyway.

Cheers!
 
Those wires are a b*tch to work with. You MUST completely remove lacquer insulation. Don’t waste your time with sandpaper or steel wool (they take too long for the small amount of patience I don’t have). Use a razor blade or Xacto knife to expose bare copper, coat with rosin flux, use 60/40 solder to tin. If these are motor wires, be darn sure they are mechanically joined: use needle nose pliers to put a “J” hooks on both sets of wires and pinch them together before soldering.

Personally, I get new motors before I jack with the wires. I’d rather have a root canal. Motors are cheap and this type of solder connection is prone to fail mid flight.
 
Do DJI use a high melting point solder? I was just trying to desolder the power connections on the main board and my iron, 60?W, was struggling, yes it's a fair lump of solder but........

Hotrodspike, Maplins might have been reincarnated, their demise was sad but they did seem to be going down hill when compared to what they were in the 90's. I still have one of their old catalogues for reference purposes.
I happened to do a google in the last couple of weeks which brought up a link to them, it seemed to be a live website.
 
Those connections require a LOT of heat. I use a 225 watt soldering gun. 60 watt irons can’t apply enough heat fast enough. 14 gauge wire acts as a heat sink and dissipates heat almost as fast as a 60 watt iron can apply it. Eventually it may do the job, but in the meantime the board is getting hotter and hotter leading to possible component failure.

Find a 200 watt or bigger iron. Do this with the board dismounted from the shell.
 
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Well, finally got the cables soldered!!!!!!!!!!
Used a collection of Dremel sanding discs to rub the crap off them, then twisted them together (tightly), then lots of flux, then really really hot iron with good quality solder, and lo and behold...........they stuck, no movement and seems to be well and truly soldered.
Topped off with some of HobbKings shrink tubing and should be good to go.
Took me two hours and a bit and three mugs of tea, but it's done now.
Next step, get the rest of the cable off the main board.
That's got to wait until tomorrow, the Liverpool match is on tonight, so no distractions.

John
 
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Even rosin flux is, by its very nature of being a flux, slightly corrosive - but a lot less so than, for example, plumbing flux.

I don't think you really need to be unduly worried about it, but if you are, then you can give the wires a bit of a clean. Here are some ways of doing it:-

Rosin Flux Cleaning Methods

Any input on good rosin flux cleaning methods?
www.avrfreaks.net www.avrfreaks.net

Be careful about plastic though.
 
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Anyone here ever built a Phanvic?

New Modified Body Shell Cover For DIY DJI Phantom 3A/3P/3SE/4K/3S Kits Tool 648738887946 | eBay Here's the video: Saw a Youtuber build one of these the other day and having a P3S that I bought for parts it inspired me to consider building one myself. The only parts I don't have are the gimbal...
phantompilots.com phantompilots.com
 

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