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Maybe instead of carbon fiber blades a more useful release would be a carbon fiber upgrade body kit.
I have looked everywhere for how to adjust the active braking. It's probably right in front of me. If you could tell me where that is I would be very grateful. I'm using Android if that makes a difference. ThanksThanks. It seems like the black props actually get more stress on them.
In addition to adding the strong arm kit I also turned active breaking all the way down. The active braking seemed to add a lot of stress. I haven't noticed any cracks after these changes.
Good luck getting a replacement from DJI. Hope they treat you right!
In the app, go to MC settings, click on Gain & Expo Tuning and then go down the next page that comes up.I have looked everywhere for how to adjust the active braking.
I have looked everywhere for how to adjust the active braking. It's probably right in front of me. If you could tell me where that is I would be very grateful. I'm using Android if that makes a difference. Thanks
I experienced a catastrophic failure to my P3P this morning. Essentially one of the motors of my bird sheared off in flight. I don't think most people realize exactly how the motors are attached (I know I didn't). All that repeated torque, thrust and force of these powerful motors is transferred to a thin layer of plastic less than 1mm thick (see the picture). Who designed this? Plastic will fatigue, crack and soften with heat (the motors can get very hot). Failure was inevitable.
There have been many posts here regarding cracks of the plastic around the motor mounts. When I read them, I inspected my P3 I assumed that since I did not have cracks when I checked two months ago, that I was safe. I wish I had checked before my flight this morning as I would bet I had cracks that had developed.
I would bet that ALL Phantom 3s will eventually have this problem. If you are flying where it is hot like me, I would bet you will have this problem sooner rather than later.
This is now standard issue for my future Phantom's:
Strong Arm reinforcement plate
View attachment 29983 View attachment 29984
I doubt zip ties would have helped. Take a look at the pictures. The motor came right off the mounting plate.But, did you zip tie bro? I noticed cracks in my P3. Zip tied all the propellers no more cracks. Been flying around for about a month now. It never got worse or anything.
I doubt zip ties would have helped. Take a look at the pictures. The motor came right off the mounting plate.
Interesting thought. I did see a crack in the same arm of Chris' P3 in his original post in another thread. I highlighted it here, but noted that we really cant tell if there were also cracks around the motor screws. Perhaps the arm screw crack led to instability as you suggested. Still, as you also said this is all on DJI. Its such a shame given the truly amazing level of the technology in the P3 that something as simple as the shell can bring it down.Zip ties could have definitely helped.
If my P3 started developing cracks and I can tell from the softened plastic that it was only going to get worse. They are small hairline cracks. Had I not put the zip ties I can tell that there would be chunks of plastic missing. Now, going back to OP. Just because his situation is a lot worse lets take it back to the basics. If theres is small plastic cracks that lead to chunks of plastic missing. Whether its due from over heating, high torque rates, breaking and accelerating too fast, or weak design of plastic. It doesn't matter. Bottom line is it cracks and only gets worse. Now if one of those cracks shows up around an important screw. Lets say, a screw holding the frame together or a screw holding the motor together. Guess what happens? the motors become loose causing exactly what you see here. Once that motor becomes loose the high speed of those motors spinning will scratch, burn, melt, break and crack nearly any plastic it touches. Plus the huge chunk of plastic missing where the motor screws go. Brings me back to my point. Zip ties coud have prevented this. Do I blame the OP? HELLLL NO we p3 users shouldn't even have to put zip ties around our props thats foolish. Sure beats sending it in for 3 months. DJI should be coughing money up to users experiencing this. They designed a poor quad copter.
Zip ties could have definitely helped.
If my P3 started developing cracks and I can tell from the softened plastic that it was only going to get worse. They are small hairline cracks. Had I not put the zip ties I can tell that there would be chunks of plastic missing. Now, going back to OP. Just because his situation is a lot worse lets take it back to the basics. If theres is small plastic cracks that lead to chunks of plastic missing. Whether its due from over heating, high torque rates, breaking and accelerating too fast, or weak design of plastic. It doesn't matter. Bottom line is it cracks and only gets worse. Now if one of those cracks shows up around an important screw. Lets say, a screw holding the frame together or a screw holding the motor together. Guess what happens? the motors become loose causing exactly what you see here. Once that motor becomes loose the high speed of those motors spinning will scratch, burn, melt, break and crack nearly any plastic it touches. Plus the huge chunk of plastic missing where the motor screws go. Brings me back to my point. Zip ties coud have prevented this. Do I blame the OP? HELLLL NO we p3 users shouldn't even have to put zip ties around our props thats foolish. Sure beats sending it in for 3 months. DJI should be coughing money up to users experiencing this. They designed a poor quad copter.
Interesting thought. I did see a crack in the same arm of Chris' P3 in his original post in another thread. I highlighted it here, but noted that we really cant tell if there were also cracks around the motor screws. Perhaps the arm screw crack led to instability as you suggested. Still, as you also said this is all on DJI. Its such a shame given the truly amazing level of the technology in the P3 that something as simple as the shell can bring it down.
Chris - Can you do a favor, please?
I have long suspected that the Phantom shells from the beginning have been injection molded polystyrene or styrene hybrid. Would you mind please applying a small amount of acetone or acetone-based fingernail polish remover to one of the damaged pieces to see if it softens within a minute or so? PS is not really a good chice for long term vibration absorbtion without careful design to minimize any kind of stress concentrations (thicker skins and bosses and gussets and smoother transitions and radii).
With your results - I am very sorry this happened to your P3 - I realize the only possible robust prevention is to use a backing plate (the reinforcements made for this or removable prop guard brackets). Obviously, we cannot change the material and it will be a while before DJI redesigns the gussets and bosses and knit lines etc to anticipate the failures due to long term vibration. With all their good computing and engineering skills, I am surprised they didn't do FEA (finite element analysis) over a virtual long life. Yup, I used to do that very thing for a toy company.
Actually, that is good news - Thanks! The only other times I have seen this occur for an injection molded part, either (1) the resin beads were kept in too much of a humid environment, or (2) injection or cooling cycles were too fast. Oversimplification of course.I didn't have straight acetone but my used my wife's nail polish remover which is mostly acetone. It had not effect on the plastic.
Actually, that is good news - Thanks! The only other times I have seen this occur for an injection molded part, either (1) the resin beads were kept in too much of a humid environment, or (2) injection or cooling cycles were too fast. Oversimplification of course.
I believe DJI can improve the mold by widening some radiuses and/or using a slightly tougher (as in energy-absorbing) material.
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