GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
My P3P solution was to stick to the W323 old motor P3P which had the highest video power output of any P3P version at .746 watts. The P4 has 20% less video power output than that, and 20% less control power from the GL300 v. the W323 P3P GL300A controller.That is exactly how I have looked at it. I am a former electronic tech and graduated from an electronic engineering trade school many years ago. I usually don't try to reinvent the wheel. though, so I have been doing what everyone else has. It just seems everyone is amplifying the input side of video signal at the remote, probably for convenience. Without surprise that is the one that seems to drop while the amped control signal is still good. But, once you lose video and telemetry back, you are disconnected no matter how many bars your control signal had. I need to choose the right size amp for video/telemetry back to the remote. I was thinking of one of the little 2.4ghz ones they sell on Hobby King.
However, you are not "disconnected" once you lose video and telemetry back, as long as you still have the green LED light on the transmitter. If you do, you still have full control of the aircraft with the transmitter, even without the app. You can initiate RTH, you can elevate, you can rotate, you can keep flying and pushing through the interference, and see if FPV comes back. Usually, only the FPV is lost and you retain telemetry. Once the green LED turns to red, you have lost all control, and your "Loss of Signal" settings take over, which is usually RTH, unless you changed it to Hover or Land.