EDIT - SEE BASE OF POST FOR LATEST REVISIONS/ADVICE
Playlist of all videos of how to do this can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... x56LAe0abg
So I finally got my hands on a Phantom 2 Shell.
I intended to use this for measurements for some Phantom 2 Shapeways parts (due to demand) but when I got it I sized it up for a Phantom 1 to Phantom 2(ish) conversion. I'm sure I'm not the first to try this but thought I'd share.
Long video of how it went is below.... for those not interesting in watching/snoozing through it. The Phantom 1 board, esc, motors, top shell, legs ALL fit perfectly. Easier in fact than re-shelling a Phantom 1 as you can re-use the P1 top shell and not move the GPS at all. The only thing you need to mod is where the LED goes (as its not used in the P2). Pretty easy solution tho.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0QQctngzSg[/youtube]
So why do this?
- More space (fit two 2200 side by side in the shell)
- Use of P2 Batt. With a simple cable you can use the 5200mah P2 batt on your P1 (granted you likely don't get as much flight time on the P2 batt as with P2 firmware but it is still a 5200mah with good power to weight ratio).
I have done a blog on RC Groups about this with more info and pics which I will add to:
Also I have just finished the http://www.sarawuth.com mod that gives at Phantom 1 upgrade board a Can Bus port (without a PMUv2). Video to come soon of how to.... easy and great mod.
So I now have a Phantom 1 with CanBus in a P2 shell..... almost feel like its re-born! :lol:
******** EDIT Nov 2014 **********
Playlist of all videos of how to do this is now here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... x56LAe0abg
This is a big old thread now... well worth reading but for those just wanting to delve in here are some options for you:
-- Least amount of soldering needed: --
Keep - P1 ESC's
Keep - P1 GPS (keep in top half)
Buy - P2 Shell (only use bottom half)
Buy - P2 Main Board
Buy - Can-Bus port/Leg mount
Buy - DJI Internal Power Connecter with XT60 soldered to the rear (for Lipo useage) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPGDp_E_0iQ
Buy (option) P2 Battery
Buy (option) Naza v2 LED
Buy (option if using Lipo's) P1.5 Battery door: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/d3wey (other sources do exist but these are mine)
This option doesn't include a motor upgrade and P1 owners will therefore not have the excellent 9443 props as an option.
-- P1 Owners with H3-2D Upgrade board ---
Keep - P1 ESC's
Keep - P1 GPS (keep in top half)
Buy - P2 Shell (only use bottom half)
**Buy (option) - Can-Bus port/Leg mount
Buy - DJI Internal Power Connecter with XT60 soldered to the rear (for Lipo useage) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPGDp_E_0iQ
Buy (option) P2 Battery
Buy (option) Naza v2 LED
Buy (option if using Lipo's) P1.5 Battery door: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/d3wey (other sources do exist but these are mine)
People who have the upgrade board can have CAN-BUS but will need to do some fairly small soldering via the 'Sarawuth' route.
** If you buy the leg mount you will need to do the Sarawuth mod but solder one end of the Can-bus wires supplied with the mount to the board
-- LED Options --
The P2 has its status light in the ESC led's. You will need to put your P1 LED somewhere. Options are:
1) Drill a hole at the front of the P2 shell (where the USB hole is) and mount it there
2) Buy one of my Shapeways doors that integrates the LED (will need extend the wires)
3) Buy the cheap NAZA v2 LED and use this.
4) Buy the cheap NAZA v2 LED and use this as well as option 1 - for this you will need an inline switch or your USB function won't work... details here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gHfYdDh-oM
-- E300 Option --
You can use the E300's on the P1.5. The should work with the P1 ESC's. Using the ESC's will remove your LED's on the arms.
-- P2 ESC's --
Are useable but you will not get a status LED's flashing through them like you do on a P2 because that is controlled via the P2's NAZA.
P2 'v2' ESC's are an unknown as of November 2014 - they 'should' work on paper as they are identical to v1 in design but for a firmware update to help 'manage' the new 2312 motors... that management might however not work correctly without the P2 NAZA and or the new motors. Someone will just have to try it and report back :mrgreen:
Playlist of all videos of how to do this can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... x56LAe0abg
So I finally got my hands on a Phantom 2 Shell.
I intended to use this for measurements for some Phantom 2 Shapeways parts (due to demand) but when I got it I sized it up for a Phantom 1 to Phantom 2(ish) conversion. I'm sure I'm not the first to try this but thought I'd share.
Long video of how it went is below.... for those not interesting in watching/snoozing through it. The Phantom 1 board, esc, motors, top shell, legs ALL fit perfectly. Easier in fact than re-shelling a Phantom 1 as you can re-use the P1 top shell and not move the GPS at all. The only thing you need to mod is where the LED goes (as its not used in the P2). Pretty easy solution tho.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0QQctngzSg[/youtube]
So why do this?
- More space (fit two 2200 side by side in the shell)
- Use of P2 Batt. With a simple cable you can use the 5200mah P2 batt on your P1 (granted you likely don't get as much flight time on the P2 batt as with P2 firmware but it is still a 5200mah with good power to weight ratio).
I have done a blog on RC Groups about this with more info and pics which I will add to:
Also I have just finished the http://www.sarawuth.com mod that gives at Phantom 1 upgrade board a Can Bus port (without a PMUv2). Video to come soon of how to.... easy and great mod.
So I now have a Phantom 1 with CanBus in a P2 shell..... almost feel like its re-born! :lol:
******** EDIT Nov 2014 **********
Playlist of all videos of how to do this is now here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL ... x56LAe0abg
This is a big old thread now... well worth reading but for those just wanting to delve in here are some options for you:
-- Least amount of soldering needed: --
Keep - P1 ESC's
Keep - P1 GPS (keep in top half)
Buy - P2 Shell (only use bottom half)
Buy - P2 Main Board
Buy - Can-Bus port/Leg mount
Buy - DJI Internal Power Connecter with XT60 soldered to the rear (for Lipo useage) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPGDp_E_0iQ
Buy (option) P2 Battery
Buy (option) Naza v2 LED
Buy (option if using Lipo's) P1.5 Battery door: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/d3wey (other sources do exist but these are mine)
This option doesn't include a motor upgrade and P1 owners will therefore not have the excellent 9443 props as an option.
-- P1 Owners with H3-2D Upgrade board ---
Keep - P1 ESC's
Keep - P1 GPS (keep in top half)
Buy - P2 Shell (only use bottom half)
**Buy (option) - Can-Bus port/Leg mount
Buy - DJI Internal Power Connecter with XT60 soldered to the rear (for Lipo useage) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPGDp_E_0iQ
Buy (option) P2 Battery
Buy (option) Naza v2 LED
Buy (option if using Lipo's) P1.5 Battery door: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/d3wey (other sources do exist but these are mine)
People who have the upgrade board can have CAN-BUS but will need to do some fairly small soldering via the 'Sarawuth' route.
** If you buy the leg mount you will need to do the Sarawuth mod but solder one end of the Can-bus wires supplied with the mount to the board
-- LED Options --
The P2 has its status light in the ESC led's. You will need to put your P1 LED somewhere. Options are:
1) Drill a hole at the front of the P2 shell (where the USB hole is) and mount it there
2) Buy one of my Shapeways doors that integrates the LED (will need extend the wires)
3) Buy the cheap NAZA v2 LED and use this.
4) Buy the cheap NAZA v2 LED and use this as well as option 1 - for this you will need an inline switch or your USB function won't work... details here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gHfYdDh-oM
-- E300 Option --
You can use the E300's on the P1.5. The should work with the P1 ESC's. Using the ESC's will remove your LED's on the arms.
-- P2 ESC's --
Are useable but you will not get a status LED's flashing through them like you do on a P2 because that is controlled via the P2's NAZA.
P2 'v2' ESC's are an unknown as of November 2014 - they 'should' work on paper as they are identical to v1 in design but for a firmware update to help 'manage' the new 2312 motors... that management might however not work correctly without the P2 NAZA and or the new motors. Someone will just have to try it and report back :mrgreen: