Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy!)

[FC40 Pilot]

Re: Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy

Well my Phantom 2 battery cover has arrived. No this is not a 3D printed version. This is an original battery cover which I purchased from a store direct from China. Cost less than $20 as well!! Good quality (matching!) plastic and very light as well. Took a while to arrive but maybe I was just unlucky.

Very pleased!!

 

[PJA]

Re: Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy

Well my Phantom 2 battery cover has arrived. No this is not a 3D printed version. This is an original battery cover which I purchased from a store direct from China. Cost less than $20 as well!! Good quality (matching!) plastic and very light as well. Took a while to arrive but maybe I was just unlucky.

Very pleased!!

Can you share a link for that cover???

Thanks...

 

[FC40 Pilot]

Re: Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy

Im trying to think of the name. It was such a while ago and these Chinese names are similar. Luckybuy or Goodbang or something like that. Ill try and get the details.

 

[Stinger]

Re: Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy

Well my Phantom 2 battery cover has arrived. No this is not a 3D printed version. This is an original battery cover which I purchased from a store direct from China. Cost less than $20 as well!! Good quality (matching!) plastic and very light as well. Took a while to arrive but maybe I was just unlucky.

Very pleased!!

Can you share a link for that cover???

Thanks...

Hi,

Here is the link to that battery door you are interested in. I have bought from this company a couple times in the past and found them to very professional and relatively fast regarding delivery.

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dji-phantom- ... white.html

 

[MultiBrew]

Just about done with my conversion!! I modeled a mount for my FPV Tx and I will be printing that tomorrow. I want the final to be made from nylon but I only have ABS so that's what it will be for now. Once I get that printed I should be good to get it fired up!! It's been WAY too long.

 

[MultiBrew]

Sigh...not complaining about the new layout but I find myself getting frustrated trying to find things!! As an example, how do I search a specific thread? I want to search this thread to see if anyone posted their Naza settings after the 1.5 conversion.

On a great note, I have already completed several test flights with the new 5200mah lipos!!! LOVE IT!! No VTx connected just yet or Zenmuse/Gopro as I wanted to get some test flights and begin breaking in the lipo.

First flight to constant red flash was 13 minutes. Second flight to all red was 14 minutes. I'm sure I'm off a few seconds here. I actually thought I would have gotten more! This was a fun and sometimes frustrating conversion. As an example I held the iron on the mainboard too long and actually melted the small lipo ground wire tab out of the board!! UGH!! I had to solder to one of the ESC connections...

Haven't done enough soldering to be great at it yet so...

Btw, the silicone wire was incredibly easy to work with and I LOVE how flexible it is compared to automotive wire - thanks Dewey!!

I have a final design on my door as well and tested that and it works well! Now to print high quality and maybe even in nylon (only done ABS printing so far)...

 

[MultiBrew]

So after all that I forgot to ask what settings everyone is using in the Naza Assistant??

I ran the 9450 blades on my test flights. So I will go with the 9443's my next couple of flights to see if that affects flight time as well.

 

[DeweyAXD]

So after all that I forgot to ask what settings everyone is using in the Naza Assistant??

I ran the 9450 blades on my test flights. So I will go with the 9443's my next couple of flights to see if that affects flight time as well.

Hi Multibrew - Glad you liked your first taste of silicone wiring. One of those little things that you don't fully appreciate until you pick up an old bit of auto wire and try using it. I wouldn't want to use anything other than that ever again!

I use 95 all round for gains and 100 for vertical. Does the job on 9443's and unlikely to cause much difference on 9450's.

Make sure you check what goes back into the 5200's after a flight. You will find the red lights flash much earlier than needed with the low C batts as they highlight voltage sag much more than the old stock lipo's. Better to put a voltage alarm on the balance cable (or go by the osd).

 

[PJA]

Here is a test flight of the third reincarnation of my Phantom 1.5...

Newest Additions are:
* P2 Circuit Board,
* 9450 Props,
* FrSky X8R Receiver,
* DYS 3-Axis Smart Gimbal
* and RETRAX Landing Gear...

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[sohail99]

Amazing and awe inspiring thread!!
Thanks a lot dcoski for pointing me to this thread!

I have a FC40 with 2312 motors and v2.1 ESCs
I needed to ask that, since I already have a Phantom v3 upgrade board(Not installed yet) And ESC LEDs on those v2.1 ESCs dont work, obviously!
Will using a P2 board instead, get the v2.1 ESC LEDs to light up?

 

[EMCSQUAR]

Here is a test flight of the third reincarnation of my Phantom 1.5...

Newest Additions are:
* P2 Circuit Board,
* 9450 Props,
* FrSky X8R Receiver,
* DYS 3-Axis Smart Gimbal
* and RETRAX Landing Gear...

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

PJ,

Awesome rendition of the P1.5. Sorry I haven't spent more time with the group that inspired me (no pun) I've dabbled with 450s, 550s, and even a M690L from Align (which I fitted w/DJI f/c, Zenmuse gimbal & ground station) but have come full circle to DJI again and am now flying an Inspire1. I still have the P1.5 and use it for tight shots and love it for the agility. Long live the P1.5

 

[dteca]

Well I finally broke down and got the hero 4 black. now I want to mount it to my P1.5 with a H4-3D. since I have the p2 board, do I need to get the gcu also?

 

[sohail99]

Well I finally broke down and got the hero 4 black. now I want to mount it to my P1.5 with a H4-3D. since I have the p2 board, do I need to get the gcu also?

You don't need the GCU with P2 as well as upgraded P1 v3 board

 

[dteca]

thanks. I will give it a try.

 

[eborn]

I'm about to convert my 1.1.1 to a P2 shell. My original shell has a crack, so I wanted to replace it anyway. I also want to add the canbus option for the iOSD.
I have a spare upgrade board (with a fried Zenmuse port...) that I can practice on. Will 16AWG wire work for soldering to the board? Or should I get 20AWG? I can't seem to find 20AWG in multiple colors, in order to seperate the four canbus wires. I also found an example with a cut JST wire, but I can't seem to find one in 20AWG...

Should I remove the NAZA from the board when I start to solder? I don't want to remove all the motors, but I don't think that will be required? Just remove the NAZA and reattach with new sticky tape? Just when I replaced the mainboard a year ago.

 

[sohail99]

I'm about to convert my 1.1.1 to a P2 shell. My original shell has a crack, so I wanted to replace it anyway. I also want to add the canbus option for the iOSD.
I have a spare upgrade board (with a fried Zenmuse port...) that I can practice on. Will 16AWG wire work for soldering to the board? Or should I get 20AWG? I can't seem to find 20AWG in multiple colors, in order to seperate the four canbus wires. I also found an example with a cut JST wire, but I can't seem to find one in 20AWG...

Should I remove the NAZA from the board when I start to solder? I don't want to remove all the motors, but I don't think that will be required? Just remove the NAZA and reattach with new sticky tape? Just when I replaced the mainboard a year ago.

What board are you using in there? (Stock, v3 upgrade board or p2 board?)

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

 

[eborn]

What board are you using in there? (Stock, v3 upgrade board or p2 board?)

I will be using the original upgrade board, that is already mounted. I had to replace it when it got the H3-2D, because it didn't work with my existing upgrade board. Zenmuse did not get power. After swapping it out, it worked. So I have a ' spare' upgrade board laying around.

Btw, I think i'll be using Turnigy 24AWG from HK for the Can mod. I read here that it doesn't really matter if you use 20AWG or less. So i'll give that a try.

Edit 2: I did not know about the V3 upgrade board with can port... but then again: if I had to replace the board now, it would be better to upgrade to the P2 board anyway, right?

 

[eborn]

After reading some more, I'm seriously considering upgrading to the P2 board, and skip the can mod. I'll have to get the cables, headers and do the soldering. And with the P2, it's a simple mather of soldering the ESC's and go! It might cost some more, but it saves me a lot of time and if I fry the board, I'll have to get a new one anyway...

Just to be sure: P2 board will just work with my P1.1.1 Naza, ESC's, GPS and battery, right? I see soldering points for the 4 ESC's and the cable to the Lipo. I'll just skip the 4 new P2 ESC connectors.

 

[sohail99]

I will be using the original upgrade board, that is already mounted. I had to replace it when it got the H3-2D, because it didn't work with my existing upgrade board. Zenmuse did not get power. After swapping it out, it worked. So I have a ' spare' upgrade board laying around.

Btw, I think i'll be using Turnigy 24AWG from HK for the Can mod. I read here that it doesn't really matter if you use 20AWG or less. So i'll give that a try.

Edit 2: I did not know about the V3 upgrade board with can port... but then again: if I had to replace the board now, it would be better to upgrade to the P2 board anyway, right?

Yea! I am still waiting on the P2 board as I have the v2.1 ESCs and 2312 motors. Even though I made it work with Naza FC directly on the v3 upgrade board, they are meant to be controlled by the P2 board(with their proprietary connectors)

Zenmuse should get power directly from the upgrade board via ribbon cable.

Additionally, I got this - http://www.amazon.com/Plug-Play-Cable-ImmersionRC-Transmitter/dp/B00LDX65OS
to take the gopro feed and run it through the iOSD and then to the video Tx.

I used the cable that came with the iOSD to make the can cable used to power the iosd from the canbus port on the v3 board. (I think the same cable comes with the DJI FPV hub kit! Not sure!)


EDIT -- Yes! The P2 board should work! Many ppl who converted to the P2 board use their previous Naza FCs, GPS and compass. Many mentioned that they had to stick the Rx unit under the p2 board as it didn't line up with screw holes on the P2 shell.

I almost have all the parts for conversion to P1.5, except for the P2 board which is still on the way!
(I'll be converting my FC40 btw!)

You'll have to take care fitting the compass on the P2 shell legs. As, in P2, the battery is the rear part, unlike P1 and FC40. Just check some images for reference!

 

[eborn]

Yea! I am still waiting on the P2 board as I have the v2.1 ESCs and 2312 motors. Even though I made it work with Naza FC directly on the v3 upgrade board, they are meant to be controlled by the P2 board(with their proprietary connectors)

Zenmuse should get power directly from the upgrade board via ribbon cable.

Additionally, I got this - http://www.amazon.com/Plug-Play-Cable-ImmersionRC-Transmitter/dp/B00LDX65OS
to take the gopro feed and run it through the iOSD and then to the video Tx.

I still have the P1.1.1 ESC's, but I guess they should just work with the P2 board, right?
Yeah, the Zenmuse should get power from the board. But with the first board I tried, it did not get the power. I got the drone 2nd hand, so I don't know if it was a factory issue or if the previous owner wrecked it. That's why I put the new upgrade board in. That was last June, didn't know the V3 came out a few weeks later... bummer...

I have the same cable for my existing setup, but without the iOSD lead. I think I'll upgrade to this lead, it worked flawlessy.