I will, and then move up the chain step by step.
Neither. When I connect the battery, nothing happens. No lights, no sounds. So I guess it's: a) a problem with my board, b) no power comes to the board. I'll check that tonight.
Video: Fitted my Phantom v1 into a Phantom 2 shell (easy!)
- Thread starter DeweyAXD
- Start date
I will, and then move up the chain step by step.
Neither. When I connect the battery, nothing happens. No lights, no sounds. So I guess it's: a) a problem with my board, b) no power comes to the board. I'll check that tonight.
Bingo, the VCC connection looked good to me, but it didn't work. Resoldered it and now it's working! I didn't let the solder flow enough to join it to the board. After all the failed attempts, I didn't want to heat the solder on the board too much, but that was my problem.
Now the LED turns on and I get the start up sound. Next step is to connect M3 and test the motors with the GPS attached.
Btw, are you using the P2 battery at the moment? Or a XT60? I want to shield the two smart battery connections, because I'm afraid I will touch them when connecting a battery. Any ideas? I thought about putting on a matching plug (I believe I saw some earlier on in the topic). Or just put tape on both flaps.
Glad it worked!
At the moment, I've only tried the OEM Phantom 2 battery.
For using the XT60 connector, in my FC40, I used to first connect the cables, put them in first followed by the battery, as that used to enable me to put 2800mah batteries in there.
Here too, I'll try doing the same, connecting the cables first and putting them inside first. that should be ok I guess.(I'll try it out with a 5200mah multistar that I have and report back)
You could maybe put like a heatshrink covering both the pins or individual, which are barely tight enough to hold on and remove whenever necessary.
Heatshrink it is. Shrunk one end a small bit and now it fits like a glove. And you can pull it off easily because the other side is still normal size.
M3 is also working, I cut the wire, inserted to pieces of the cable I used to extend the LED and soldered it back together.
I tried to put the iOSD in the shell, but in the end I'm choosing to use the CAN port on the leg. I also want to add the groundstation or BTU and I don't think I can fit those in the shell too.
Nice! I have placed the iosd beside the naza and it fits perfectly!
If you can remove the iosd and btu plastic cases, you can easily fit both in there.
You can make your can cable to power iosd too!
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Hey, can you connect your GPS to Naza or phantom 2 board and check in Naza assistant?
Is everything ok?
Mine shows GPS hw ID as 0.0.0.0 on upgrade page and IOC page says : GPS required.
Flying modes are now limited to Atti and Manual.
Is everything ok?
Mine shows GPS hw ID as 0.0.0.0 on upgrade page and IOC page says : GPS required.
Flying modes are now limited to Atti and Manual.
I'm using the 2.40 NAZA assistant. Everything shows up correctly. I'll have to check the exact numbers, but it did show the GPS. Also the NAZA and P330 board.
GPS is connected to the P2 board and board is connected to the NAZA-M v2.
Which NAZA-M firmware are you using? I've updated mine to 4.06 and that worked fine.
I'm now waiting on the Multistar 5400mah batteries from HK. I'll do some testing with a single DJI 2200mah, but I'll need a way to fix it in the bay. I think I'll add a small bit of velcro for now.
Thanks for the much needed heads up!
I upgraded to 4.06 with assistant software ver 2.40.
Still my GPS isn't recognized and shows 0.0.0.0 in assistant software!
Tested with multistar 5200mah and phantom 2 batteries.
Unfortunately, the rear esc LEDs don't work(I have v2.1 ESCs) as on phantom 2, they are controlled by an 'altered' Naza m V2.
I'll be trying some fixes for the GPS & LEDs.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
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Strange. Does the assistent see the compass?
Sorry, no help from me on the escs. Using 1.1.1 escs myself.
Sorry, no help from me on the escs. Using 1.1.1 escs myself.
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Did you have any problems with getting the lid on? It seems the gps plug is just scraping the grey gps patch on the top. It does close, but I can see the board go down a tiny bit when I press it down. Can I remove the part of the grey path that is in the way? Or will that damage the gps unit and/or reception?
Thats just the gps shielding.
You can fold it away from the area so it doesn't come in the way.
My install is kinda stuck getting the rear ESC leds to signal what the NAZA LED does. So, I'll be able to omit the NAZA Led.
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Ok, I'll try that. Have to tweak my gains a little, because it's currently not hovering very stable. Final weight with fpv, gopro, h3-2d, iosd and data link should be around 1300 grams. So that should keep it steady by itself ;-)
Nice! Do take a video of your Phantom ?1.5/2 in the air!
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Nice! Do take a video of your Phantom ?1.5/2 in the air!
I will, when everything is stable!
I'm still suspecting one bad motor (had a crash a year ago and replaced two of them). Too bad the 2212 motors are more expensive then the P2 2312 motors...[/QUOTE]
Hey guys,
I have completed this conversion and even more. Before this upgrade I had a 1.1.1 with the Zenmuse H3-2D w/GCU. I am 100% positive I was able to stop the gimbal tilt at whatever point I wanted.
Now with the upgrade board and the H3-3D gimbal (no GCU b/c it comes off the board) when I use the tilt lever it goes completely straight up or straight down (90 degree sweep). The only difference is how fast it does it. I can move the tilt about halfway and it will begin to tilt but doesn't stop halfway, it tilts to the limit.
I have gone through the NAZA settings and nothing has seemed to help. This is absolutely critical because most of my aerial work had the camera tilted down about 20-30 degrees. I never did photo or video work with it straight out (parallel to ground) and very rarely was it ever straight down!!
Anyone have any ideas?
I have completed this conversion and even more. Before this upgrade I had a 1.1.1 with the Zenmuse H3-2D w/GCU. I am 100% positive I was able to stop the gimbal tilt at whatever point I wanted.
Now with the upgrade board and the H3-3D gimbal (no GCU b/c it comes off the board) when I use the tilt lever it goes completely straight up or straight down (90 degree sweep). The only difference is how fast it does it. I can move the tilt about halfway and it will begin to tilt but doesn't stop halfway, it tilts to the limit.
I have gone through the NAZA settings and nothing has seemed to help. This is absolutely critical because most of my aerial work had the camera tilted down about 20-30 degrees. I never did photo or video work with it straight out (parallel to ground) and very rarely was it ever straight down!!
Anyone have any ideas?
Did you calibrate X1 in NAZA Assistant?
If not, go to the tx menu and do a calibration and as it says, move the control sticks including the gimbal pitch lever throughout its range several times and check again after completing calibration.
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Another issue I have is the length of flight time. I have done a lot of work to this quad to extend the flight times. The 1.5 conversion to use the 5200mah lipos, 9443 and 9450 props, upgrade board to eliminate the PMU and GCU (reducing weight), chancing settings in the NAZA assistant, etc.
The factory RTH setting is pretty conservative. I tested a few weeks ago and after changing the settings in the Naza assist I was getting about 16 minute flight times. However, I discovered I had a bad motor (bent) causing a lot of vibration. I replaced those with t-motors. While doing so I cooked the contacts on two of the ESC's so I replaced those. So that means all my ESC's are replaced as well as t-motors. I would not have done the t-motor upgrade if I hadn't found them new for under $100/set.
I still have the same settings in the NAZA. I believe I have 10.7 or 10.9 for the RTH settings. Today I checked my lipo after reaching a RTH status and I had 11.4v. That's a mile above 10.9 so I'm wondering how do I confirm that the settings in the NAZA assist are actually updated to the NAZA mc?
I have other settings I changed like activating the IOC and I think that works. Well, I know it did before the t-motor upgrade I should check that again.
TIA
The factory RTH setting is pretty conservative. I tested a few weeks ago and after changing the settings in the Naza assist I was getting about 16 minute flight times. However, I discovered I had a bad motor (bent) causing a lot of vibration. I replaced those with t-motors. While doing so I cooked the contacts on two of the ESC's so I replaced those. So that means all my ESC's are replaced as well as t-motors. I would not have done the t-motor upgrade if I hadn't found them new for under $100/set.
I still have the same settings in the NAZA. I believe I have 10.7 or 10.9 for the RTH settings. Today I checked my lipo after reaching a RTH status and I had 11.4v. That's a mile above 10.9 so I'm wondering how do I confirm that the settings in the NAZA assist are actually updated to the NAZA mc?
I have other settings I changed like activating the IOC and I think that works. Well, I know it did before the t-motor upgrade I should check that again.
TIA
Those RTH settings refer to voltage under load, they always bounce back up when not under load, ie after you land.
I turn mine off completely and just go by whats on the iOSD. I land at 10.4v and the batts always shoot back up to 11 - 11.1ish
I would'nt advise you turn it off though, but i'd certainly think about lowering it to a more realistic 10.7 and 10.5.
Completed my Phantom 2 mod a month back.
Was ironing out some minor issues with test flights throughout the last month and now its complete!
Only parts carried over from my FC40 are the NAZA-M V2, Naza LED and the XT60 mobo leads soldered to Phantom-2 Internal Power Connector(for when I need to connect 2x 2200mah Phantom Lipos!)
Some pictures(Thumbs) -
Frontal with H3-3D
Disregard the Cloverleaf configuration!
(I accidentally put the 4 leaf on the Tx(ImmersionRC) and 3 leaf on the Rx before taking pictures lol!)
FPV monitor and DVR Combo
NAZA LED location.
Just yesterday took it out to learn how it responded and in spite of all the equipment on it, it is rather quick!
H3-3D kept the video super stable! iOSD was really useful on the FPV!
(don't need the naza LED as iOSD gives all the info, but old habits die hard! )
Haven't tested its battery times yet with the P2 Batteries!
Was ironing out some minor issues with test flights throughout the last month and now its complete!
Only parts carried over from my FC40 are the NAZA-M V2, Naza LED and the XT60 mobo leads soldered to Phantom-2 Internal Power Connector(for when I need to connect 2x 2200mah Phantom Lipos!)
Some pictures(Thumbs) -
Frontal with H3-3D
Disregard the Cloverleaf configuration!
(I accidentally put the 4 leaf on the Tx(ImmersionRC) and 3 leaf on the Rx before taking pictures lol!
)FPV monitor and DVR Combo
NAZA LED location.
Just yesterday took it out to learn how it responded and in spite of all the equipment on it, it is rather quick!
H3-3D kept the video super stable! iOSD was really useful on the FPV!
(don't need the naza LED as iOSD gives all the info, but old habits die hard!
)Haven't tested its battery times yet with the P2 Batteries!
