The old '3 consecutive beeps with red light' problem - gimbal not responding

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Hello all,
New to the forum. My son has a Phantom 2 vision plus that we've been trying to fix. At first, we only had an issue with the live feed (like a lot of other folks). After I let a friend work on it, we now have a new issue. When you turn on the drone, the gimbal makes one slight movement, then 3 consecutive beeps with a blinking red light on the gimbal base. Troubleshooting guide says light sequence indicates CMOS sensor error. My friend messed up the camera board, so I bought a used one and switched it out. I cant figure out how the ribbon cable is suppose to attach to the board. The fold down flap does not 'snap' in like it was when he first disconnected it. Is the ribbon cable suppose to 'insert' into a slot and then the flap snaps in place? Even with the aid of a magnifying glass, I can see how it's suppose to seat in place to allow the flap to lock it in? If it's not seating properly, could this cause the error I'm getting or should I be looking for a different source? Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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The flap connectors for ribbon cables are one of the most tender pieces of plastic in the system. Not hard to have the detent part of the flap assembly break and render it ineffective.
This picture of course is a different board from what you have, but a similar piece. If you look closely, on each end(the upper is more visible)there is a very small nub that holds the black bar in place when in the down position. If you don’t feel the lock down position when you push it down with your finger, it may not hold the ribbon cable in the correct place and won’t provide enough pressure to make a good connection. The first pic is up position, second is locked.
Hope this helps.
2FD871E1-00AE-4332-9636-25E680830497.jpeg
3AEFF292-8B98-43F1-8D46-D048C13B09ED.jpeg
 

Capt KO

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Starz, if the plastic lock tab comes off, can it be replaced? Without replacing the whole board.

Anyone tried? Don’t have spare board to try. Thanks
 
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I’ve not tried to replace one. I believe the white plastic part may be held in place by the soldered connection. The white piece is probably missing the detent tabs that lock the hinged black lock plate.
 
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Capt KO

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I’ve not tried to replace one. I believe the white plastic part may be held in place by the soldered connection. The white piece is probably missing the detent tabs that lock the hinged black lock plate.
Yes I believe the white part is soldered in. The black lock tab has little pins on the ends that break off under pressure and I was hoping the tabs could be replaced with a little ingenuity. Thanks for the reply
 
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I’ve looked closer at this board and my opinion is if the lock mechanism is broken, it’s probably not repairable by the average joe. Certainly not something I would attempt.
 
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I know that it's a little late for this reply, but if you can't get it to latch, rendering the board useless, you can always put the cable in, close the latch, and hold it down with you finger while using hot glue to shut it permanently. Worth a try anyway!
 

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