Why are you measuring of only left Antenna on controller ,near the mode switch, doesn't the right antenna contribute ??
RF power measurements
- Thread starter John Locke
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That's incredible! Now I'd like to measure that with my Immersion meter to confirm it's correct, just as a sanity check. That's like DOUBLE! That's hard to believe when DJI has this pattern of reducing transmit power with Phantoms. I need to find someone nearby here in So. Calif that has a GL658C.
No, the left side is for transmitting of control signal, OUT. The right antenna is for receiving of video only, IN
Kyle, is the GL300C putting out 34.6 or 54.6mw ? I can't read it.
Also, how do you attenuate the 5.8Ghz channel on that GL658C? Do you add a little round external antenna for that? Can you show me a photo?
Also, how do you attenuate the 5.8Ghz channel on that GL658C? Do you add a little round external antenna for that? Can you show me a photo?
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Yup!
When I pair my inspire remote to a Phantom 3 or phantom 4 she drops the power down just like the stock GL300 remote
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Seems that they have made the output dependent on the aircraft they are paired to. So regardless a/b/c they should be the same if paired with a P3 for example
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Not sure about that. When I fly the P4 with the original P4 RC I get low signal at about 3/4mi but with my I RC I flew over 3 miles without any problems.
Kyle, since you're in the business of selling remotes with upgrades, this is a good subject to write up tutorial about all of these various remotes and how they are compatible to fly various DJI craft. This is something people need to know. The Inspire remote version GL658C is $429 new. It may be worth it to some people to fly with the most powerful controller for range. Some of us don't like external amps and battery hanging on the RC, which make it difficult to store the RC in the backpack. The Inspire RC is ideal for those that like range, but need to compactness of a stock controller. Adding the DBS2.2 to an Inspire RC is the hot ticket I think, still fits in my backpack and maximized power. Do you sell the GL658C with DBS2.2 using your clean install kit? If yes, how much? And how do you attenuate the 5.8Ghz channel when you install the clean install kit?
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So you believe the RC has the ability to adjust it's power output, depending on the craft it's paired to? Can you show us some tests with those results? Such as using the same RC and pairing it to P3, P4 and Inspire, showing different outputs from the same RC based on pairing?
What's strange about this FCC document is they mention NOTHING about 5.8Ghz from the GL658, and we all know this controller emits 5.8Ghz to the second controller, right?
Yeah, I agree Dacon, my GL658A has way better range than the GL300C, WAY BETTER, about twice the distance. Using my GL658A with my P4 gives me similar range as my P3P with GL300A, 2+ miles easy. The GL300C starts crapping out at 1mi, even with Windsurfer sometimes (Ch 32 @ 4mbps).
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This is my GL658C paired to my P3P
Same remote my GL658C paired to my inspire
And lastly my second inspire remote GL658B paired to inspire
Not the best photos just searching what's on my phone at the moment.
Absolutely I have thought of doing the modded remotes. Hard to keep stock of such a big ticket item when the demand is low (for now at least.)
What we could do is I could source one locally or you could order one direct from DJI here and I could mod it & ship it to you no problem!
As for the 5.8ghz. The antenna is on the backside of one of the 2.4ghz antennas from stock.
I am snipping above the element:
and gluing it into place here:
Have done this to my remotes and any customer who has modded an inspire remote. Works beautifully
I use dual operator so my wife can watch what I'm doing & even control the camera. Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots
OK then, I'm going to have to do more research by linking my Inspire RC with my P3P to see if it's any different than when linked to the P4. Very interesting that a signal from the craft can alter the output of the controller. I wish the s/w could be hacked to trigger HI OUTPUT from the GL658C while flying P4, same power as when linked to Inspire. Wouldn't that be awesome?
That's a nice way to handle the 5.8 channel. I bought a mushroom shaped 5.8 antenna I was planning to drill a hole and mount an SMA to screw it on the outside between both antennas. I like your method better.
Are you suggesting dual operator works with P3/P4 craft when using the Inspire RC, or only with Inspire craft?
That's a nice way to handle the 5.8 channel. I bought a mushroom shaped 5.8 antenna I was planning to drill a hole and mount an SMA to screw it on the outside between both antennas. I like your method better.
Are you suggesting dual operator works with P3/P4 craft when using the Inspire RC, or only with Inspire craft?
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Yeah the TX power level is software based. It would be nice to crack the SW!!
And no the dual operator does not work on the P3 or p4. It is strictly for the inspire (and possibly the "m" series)
Yeah my trim & tuck method works well and is easy. I like it ! lol
I had an immersion tester and I found the readings were not consistent. I found the rig expert one and it had been rock solid. Consistent #s , etc.
When you are reading the power the way you are there are too many variables that can influence your results. When connected straight to the sma connector with the rig expert I think it gives a more accurate reading.
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And no the dual operator does not work on the P3 or p4. It is strictly for the inspire (and possibly the "m" series)
Yeah my trim & tuck method works well and is easy. I like it ! lol
I had an immersion tester and I found the readings were not consistent. I found the rig expert one and it had been rock solid. Consistent #s , etc.
When you are reading the power the way you are there are too many variables that can influence your results. When connected straight to the sma connector with the rig expert I think it gives a more accurate reading.
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Agreed, but I didn't have SMA's to connect to. I got fairly consistent numbers using the air method. My purpose was primarily comparing the 3 RC's, not measuring true output, but comparing outputs. The results were always the same after testing each one about 5 times, not exact of course but pretty consistently LOW for the GL300C. That was the ugly truth.
What do you do on the RC to insure the transmitter is transmitting a solid signal when you measure through the SMA? Do you operate the sticks, or trigger RTH? I used the RTH method. That seemed to always send out a consistent signal trying to connect to the craft. I'm just curious if you had better ideas for a consistent output from the RC.
Kyle, it appears you had to resolder the antenna wire onto the antenna after it's removed and cut. Is that true, or is that DJI's solder job?
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That is left over from the 2.4ghz element. One side is 2.4 and one is 5.8.
And it doesn't seem to matter what I'm doing the output stays the same with minor fluctuations
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And it doesn't seem to matter what I'm doing the output stays the same with minor fluctuations
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OK I think I understand. That solder joint in the photo (which doesn't appear to be factory) is DJI's soldering, and you simply cut the antenna wire off because that's the 2.4Ghz side of the antenna board that's not used. Is that correct?
