Do the video, you don't have to have your face in it. Only my arms, kitchen table and dog have been seen in mine. 
Project MotorPixie - Open Source 2-axis gimbal for P2V
- Thread starter DKDarkness
- Start date
Pull_Up said:Do the video, you don't have to have your face in it. Only my arms, kitchen table and dog have been seen in mine.
And his crystal tumbler full of "Jack"
Will this same apply to a 3 axis gimble..... Btw...keep it going. You make it look so easy. Great job. Thank youDKDarkness said:alexmla said:
I just uploaded at cheat sheet "MotorPixie BaseCam IMU calibration cheat sheet", find it here: https://sites.google.com/site/motorpixi ... /Resources and please tell me what you think (I might do a video myself in the future, but I am a bit camera shy
My understanding of 3-axis gimbals is, that the controller board it self also has a IMU build in, which I presume must be calibrated as well. But this is guess work on my part. When I need to configure a 3-axis gimbal, I will know more
Having played with Basecam's 3-axis daughter board already, the existing IMU covers all axes. The 3rd axis board only adds motor drivers and a connection to be controlled via the ATMEL processor. So adding third axis is as simple as connecting the 3rd motor to the 3rd axis board and then the board to the existing basecam board. That's all. Software is already there, just enable 3rd axis and you are good to go.DKDarkness said:My understanding of 3-axis gimbals is, that the controller board it self also has a IMU build in, which I presume must be calibrated as well. But this is guess work on my part. When I need to configure a 3-axis gimbal, I will know more
I just assumed that the IMU on the camera would need a reference point for the follow mode to be used? "Am I now off by more than 5%?" kind of thing?
Yes, but the IMU already measures acceleration on all 3 axes. So calibrating a IMU is just nothing more than storing a set of values as a starting point. Any acceleration on any axis then results in a corrective opposite action by the controller board.DKDarkness said:
When doing my first test flight I damaged my propellers as well as the roll gimbal motor. The replacement has been ordered, but there seems to be some trouble with the hobbyking.com site, so I don't really know when I will be able to continue my testing. It's really down to the real life test now, I need to see, if the gimble will shake or make decent videos, before I can determine if it is a success or not.
How do you remove the camera from the stock gimbal? I removed the gromet and tiny screw behind it but the camera still seems to be solidly attached, don't want to force anything.
Stealthdude said:
It is a bit tricky. The cheap servo is attached to the camera with the tiny screw through a nylon bushing. The nylon bushing is still in place, that is why you can't easily remove the servo part. The bushing is pushed onto the servo rod from the outside (where you removed the screw) so you need to fiddle a little to get the bushing out. I usually push the bushing gently from the inside till it lets go
I may add: there are three small screws on top of the servo frame (holding a black plastic cover into place). Remove those 3 screws, pull out that cover, and the servo comes out (mark servo positions with a pencil or so on the frame). Now the camera comes off easily with no hassle at all.Stealthdude said:
I've just uploaded my first successful test flight with the MotorPixie gimbal: http://youtu.be/5muHu0a9xaI
DKDarkness said:
Nice job, you finally got it to work. How did you power the controllboard? I wonder if the cabel from the camera are thick enough to power both camera and the controllboard.
/Runar
We'll done !!DKDarkness said:
I want one !
How much did it cost you to build! Ah, just the gimbal and controller?
Thanks
Allan
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