Problem with the Plus' cameras ....

What do you mean balancing the props. I tightened them. Arent they already the same weight. Please explain thx
 
First, let me state up front that I don't have my P2V+ yet...waiting for it to ship, so I can only guess at how to possibly resolve the "stutters" or "jittery" footage you're getting.

But, I do shoot a lot of video on a semi-pro level.

Shutter speed is definitely a factor in how smooth video looks. Too slow and the video looks blurred. Too fast and it looks jittery (good though, for freeze framing golf swings, for instance). Your video looks as though it might have been shot with a high shutter speed (maybe 1/500th of a second, or faster?)

As far as I can tell from the P2V+ manual, there is no setting for shutter speed or for aperture. It would be interesting if someone could right click on their videos and see if the data includes shutter speed and aperture and then post it here.

Typically, you want the shutter speed to be twice the frame rate...so, if you're shooting 30 frames per second, you want a shutter speed of 1/60th of a second. If you're shooting 24 frames per second - 1/48th of a second. This will give the proper amount of blur to each frame so the eye will perceive smooth motion, yet the video will appear sharp.

It could be that shutter speed and aperture are fixed on the P2V+ camera. If the shutter speed varies along with the iso depending on the lighting, and the iso is already at it's lowest point (100) it's possible you could add a variable neutral density filter to the camera lens to allow less light in, thereby forcing the shutter speed to slow down some.
 
In answer to the question of shitter speed and aperature, i used 30 frames a second and let it default to whatever the camera wanted. I guess you could mess with the shutter speed but i left it at factory default. As far as balancing the props, its an interest idea, but im not about to start sanding them down, because for one what happens if i put a new prop on due to ma breakage, now i have to keep sanding them. How much of a differnce could they be .o01 of an ounce. I also dont want to buy additional device to test them. I guess ill have to take a lot of footage and just edit it out. Now i did have a crash before this. The gimball looks fine but maybe i thoght somthing is wrong. Anyway i looked at it carefully. Those white spongy things that connect to the upper part of the gimballand the lower part, i notice two of them were missing those clear pins with the top connector. I only found one in my box of tricks but i attached it and havent seen that shaky footage since this was shot. I am trying to locate a parts dealer that carrys thse small pins. Id use a small screw and nut but im afraid this will throw off balance
 
abacus01 said:
In answer to the question of shitter speed and aperature, i used 30 frames a second and let it default to whatever the camera wanted. I guess you could mess with the shutter speed but i left it at factory default

FPS (Frames Per Second) is not the same as shutter speed. The camera uses a fixed aperture so the only way to adjust shutter speed is to change the amount of light passing through the lens via a filter or by shooting in lower light conditions.

The masts look like that due to the excessive sharpening that is being applied to the footage. Those artifacts are also intensified because the video is heavily compressed in-camera.

abacus01 said:
Those white spongy things that connect to the upper part of the gimballand the lower part, i notice two of them were missing those clear pins with the top connector. I only found one in my box of tricks but i attached it and havent seen that shaky footage since this was shot. I am trying to locate a parts dealer that carrys thse small pins. Id use a small screw and nut but im afraid this will throw off balance

The proper setup from the factory is only two of the pins installed. You can also just skip the pins and use a zip tie to ensure that the gimbal stays attached during a crash.
 
U can balance your props by adding a piece of scotch tape to the lighter side on the bottom, just a little.
And yes it does make a big difference.
What your seeing is jello and usually that's a prop out of balance. Unless you crashed and bent a motor shaft.
Do a google search for prop balancing. If you think it doesn't make difference don't ask for help.
 
I think this is a serious problem..the video flashes all the time and the unbalanced props can't cause the flashing effect. I hope they can fix this with a software update because it's a good quality camera and has a real potential to make much better soots..
 
Yes if you look at directly to the trees it seems like something moving between them...because of the flashing dark parts
 
Mossie said:
This is my Plus first flight over some trees, see what you think and how it compares.


https://vimeo.com/94639660

It needs color correction, but you already knew that. Some curves, some mojo, maybe a vignette...

I find the lens distortion more troubling, really I don't see anything wrong with it.
 
My cellphones camera just takes really good videos even it's not 1080p i think the specifications raises the expectations..If it says it records fullhd i expect the camera to make the colour corrections by itself,it suppose to do that..

Can you fix this on computer? How can you do that? i don't know any post processing programs for video corrections..Just use imovie for everything if i need to cut and paste videos..
 
canerakcil said:
My cellphones camera just takes really good videos even it's not 1080p i think the specifications raises the expectations..If it says it records fullhd i expect the camera to make the colour corrections by itself,it suppose to do that..

Can you fix this on computer? How can you do that? i don't know any post processing programs for video corrections..Just use imovie for everything if i need to cut and paste videos..

First you have to understand I don't know anything about your camera, and you really should be talking to someone that does. To answer your question yes, you can color correct with your computer, and yes some of the software is free, BUT all of the software requires some learning, AND you can find loads of tutorials online for free. PHEW!

Before anyone recommends a software, what is your OS, and what would you say is your general knowledge of computers?

Edit, I don't know really why I'm asking. I think this might be for you: http://www.prodad.com/home/products/act ... ,l-us.html
 
I am talking about the phantom vision+'s camera...as comparison i mentioned about my cellphone camera..
 
canerakcil said:
I am talking about the phantom vision+'s camera...as comparison i mentioned about my cellphone camera..

I understand, but I don't know if the plus will allow for a camera raw output, nor am I aware of the various frame rates and resolutions. Doesn't really matter because Prodad is really simple, and will give you great results.

And that's my final answer. :lol:

Edit: It looks like the camera supports ADOBE DNG RAW, did you happen to film using that setting?
 
On the negative 1080p at 30fps, but it's has ADOBE DNG RAW recording, and "I think" white balance. I don't have that, pretty nice little camera if you ask me.
 
Mori55,
Of course I appreciate any help I get here. I just got a little nervous when someone suggesting sanding propellers. Putting a tape on to balance out the props may make sense. Im just wondering though if maybe when one speaks of balancing the whole unit is somehow a little heavier on one side or on one propeller due to a non uniform weight distribution. I will look up videos on balancing and will put a little piece of scotch tape on it to see if it makes a difference. I also noticed I had checked off the FPV thing in the software and I think i had FPV mode set to on. According to wha is says when FPV mode is enabled, gimbal roll motion will synchronize with the aircraft for a real time FPV experience. When FPV mode is disabled, the gimbal will stabilize across three axes of smooth aerial creativity. This mode only available on the phantom 2 vision +. Well i had it on i believe when i shot mine..so it seems like if i want a smoother video to turn it off. Anyone know about this FPV mode. Please chime in. And to all of you, please I really appreciate any help I get, so there isn't any need to be sarcastic or snippy if you respond. We including myself are all here I think to try try to help one another. thanks
 
CarlJ said:
On the negative 1080p at 30fps, but it's has ADOBE DNG RAW recording, and "I think" white balance. I don't have that, pretty nice little camera if you ask me.
Adobe dng raw recording can usable on vedio too or is it just for photos??
 
canerakcil said:
CarlJ said:
On the negative 1080p at 30fps, but it's has ADOBE DNG RAW recording, and "I think" white balance. I don't have that, pretty nice little camera if you ask me.
Adobe dng raw recording can usable on vedio too or is it just for photos??

Yes, for video.

"It also supports ADOBE DNG RAW recording which allows for some really great post-processing of the video, something professionals will likely love. It also has Adobe lens profile support, which allows for lens correction since the camera itself is fairly wide angle and has some lens distortion."
 
abacus01 said:
Mori55,
Of course I appreciate any help I get here. I just got a little nervous when someone suggesting sanding propellers. Putting a tape on to balance out the props may make sense. Im just wondering though if maybe when one speaks of balancing the whole unit is somehow a little heavier on one side or on one propeller due to a non uniform weight distribution. I will look up videos on balancing and will put a little piece of scotch tape on it to see if it makes a difference. I also noticed I had checked off the FPV thing in the software and I think i had FPV mode set to on. According to wha is says when FPV mode is enabled, gimbal roll motion will synchronize with the aircraft for a real time FPV experience. When FPV mode is disabled, the gimbal will stabilize across three axes of smooth aerial creativity. This mode only available on the phantom 2 vision +. Well i had it on i believe when i shot mine..so it seems like if i want a smoother video to turn it off. Anyone know about this FPV mode. Please chime in. And to all of you, please I really appreciate any help I get, so there isn't any need to be sarcastic or snippy if you respond. We including myself are all here I think to try try to help one another. thanks

Hiya m8 - I would really try and avoid sticking something to your props because they have a fair bit of power and if it starts to come away you will risk bringing the aircraft down. The sanding of props to balance them is really very simple if you use some gentle abrasive wet & dry pads you dont need much to come off before they balance, and you can trawl these forums and see arguments for and against balancing anyway, but honestly dont stick anything to your props or you are asking for trouble, just a personal opinion but each to their own.

If you need links to prop balancers and the rods for the DJI self tightening props, then I can send you the links for those. What I did with mine was balance them, fly and see how it performs, move the props around until you get a good flight characteristic then mark the props to the motor position so you always put them in the same place. Then you just need to monitor their condition for cracks etc. Also a lot of bug blood on mine now the warmer weather has been arriving in the UK.

:D
 
Yes, for video.

"It also supports ADOBE DNG RAW recording which allows for some really great post-processing of the video, something professionals will likely love. It also has Adobe lens profile support, which allows for lens correction since the camera itself is fairly wide angle and has some lens distortion."[/quote]
Can i use this with the program you suggested?or do i need another adobe software?
Thanks for your answers,
 
canerakcil said:
Can i use this with the program you suggested?or do i need another adobe software?
Thanks for your answers,

Prodad's ProDRENALIN should work just fine for you.

And I just want to add that the real difference between Prodad's ProDRENALIN and professional software is control. You have a greater degree of control in After Effects, but the learning curve is much much longer.

All that said ProDRENALIN Is easy to use, but still gives great results.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and I look forward to seeing your videos.

Joe
 

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