Phantom 3 to Mavic conversion - unboxing and pics

I ran into motor mount issues and decided to go with the conversion kit instead of a new shell. I'm very happy with the results! Thanks so much for the people in this forum that shared their helpful tips and tricks for the conversion. I really don't have any others to add - it appears that the manufacturer is paying attention and improving their product/instructions though as some of the tips shared here now appeared on an information sheet shipped with the conversion. My only complaint with the kit is that the soldering iron didn't work but I had one anyways. On my maiden flight I actually got better distance than I did before the conversion! I loaded a Litchi mission to send it out and see how far I could get signal and it got choppy at about 3,100' flying 125' off the ground in an area with lots of wifi in the area. Video cut out at about 2,900' away, I was not flying line of site.

 
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Hi all,

I'm new on the forum, just found out this post when i was looking for some infos about the mavic conversion of the Phantom 3.

Thanks all for all the info you post in about the conversion, it will be really useful when I will receive the Phavic / Phanvic body (which one is the correct ame of this result ?).

And this video and STL file could interest maybe some of your guys, thanks to Megumi7000 on youtube post a lot of stuff on the conversion, but also design a gimbal lock dedicated to the new shell.

 
So, here is my build, flew perfect first time up. I am waiting on the new folding props I ordered last week, should finish it off nicely. I need to get someone to print that gimble lock for me. I also think I'm going to open the front arms back up and attach the original led lights to the underside of the front arms, they are thin enough that the arms will still fold up.
I loved the kit, extremely well thought out, and they give you extras of eveything, wires, LEDs, screws.

I used the factory video with the English subtitles, and it worked out fine. I also agree that watching it first and making some notes helps....it was nice to know ahead of time when I was fishing my wires they the nylon protective sleeve, that later I would be adding the antenna in also, etc.

A couple of my hints:
- Mark your motors a, b, c, d, and the position on the motherboard they were attached with the same designations, so it can be reassembled the same configuration it was originally.
- Don't waste time prepping the motor/ esc wires on the inboard side before inserting them, as you will later be trimming them back before soldering them...I had thought the extensions were cut to length, and stripped and tinned the onboard ends only to find out later I should have waited.
- I suggest taking a piece of narrow cut electrical tape, and wrapping it around the onboard end of the nylon protective sleeve after your wires and antenae are all fished through. It will keep it from fraying and unravelling.
- on the arm spring mechanisms, there are 2 possible positions you can insert the mechanisms, if you insert it, and the tab is 135 degree off, it wont work when you twist it, the spring will release before getting into the correct position, so of that happens, remove the mech from the hole, and rotate the mechanism 90 degrees and put back in the hole so the tab is only 45 degrees off, then when you twist it, the spring is correctly tensioned. By doing this, the method they suggested for installation worked fine for me.
- as I stated above, consider mounting both the provided end LED lighting, and the original LEDs on the front arms, underneath, just parrallel the connections inside at the supplied LED. Its hard to see any lights from below, otherwise.
- I definately recommend a spot of hotmelt glue to hold the antennae at the 45 degree angle, I screwed around for awhile trying to get them to stay put untill the covers were on, and finally glued them.
- I suggest using the supplied cap screws they give you for the main cover, they are deep down inside the holes, they go in hard the first time, and easy to strip the Phillips heads. ( They don't apply a seperate number to the cap screws in the instructions, they just give you both Phillips and cap screws for the cover.)
- in the English subtitle instructions, I think they missed the step where you install the battery compartment end/ cover piece. (or maybe I slept thru it) ...anyway, before installing the mainboard and cutting soldering the motor and ESC wires, install the battery tray back piece that came with the kit. Its a real pain to install after the motherboard is soldered.


Regardless, first 2 flights were great, this weekend will be the distance testing.
Thanks to everyone before me that supplied comments, it helped.
 

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Did this conversion over the weekend, a few things that sucked. I got 4 LED and only 2 of them worked the other two did nothing. I took the original LED off the phantom and setup in the arms and they are super bright now.

Everything worked on the table fine, took it outside and no motor spins at all. The #1 motor tries really slow and the other 3 just sit there. I'm pretty sure that it could be the wiring but I checked out the solder joints and they are solid. Still thinking about redoing them but first going to try my spare P3 main board out and see if the same problem exists.

I have one Wifi cable in the front arm and the second one in the back arm. We'll see how it works out, if not then I'll move them to the bottom out mount externally.
 
Finally had time to fix the wiring of the motors and clean some stuff up. All updates completed and test flew it last night.

1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg
 
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I used automotive pinstriping from the lical autoparts store, aling with leftover DJI decals from my Phantom 3 Advanced.l on the arms, and the logo.
 
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So, here is my build, flew perfect first time up. I am waiting on the new folding props I ordered last week, should finish it off nicely. I need to get someone to print that gimble lock for me. I also think I'm going to open the front arms back up and attach the original led lights to the underside of the front arms, they are thin enough that the arms will still fold up.
I loved the kit, extremely well thought out, and they give you extras of eveything, wires, LEDs, screws.

I used the factory video with the English subtitles, and it worked out fine. I also agree that watching it first and making some notes helps....it was nice to know ahead of time when I was fishing my wires they the nylon protective sleeve, that later I would be adding the antenna in also, etc.

A couple of my hints:
- Mark your motors a, b, c, d, and the position on the motherboard they were attached with the same designations, so it can be reassembled the same configuration it was originally.
- Don't waste time prepping the motor/ esc wires on the inboard side before inserting them, as you will later be trimming them back before soldering them...I had thought the extensions were cut to length, and stripped and tinned the onboard ends only to find out later I should have waited.
- I suggest taking a piece of narrow cut electrical tape, and wrapping it around the onboard end of the nylon protective sleeve after your wires and antenae are all fished through. It will keep it from fraying and unravelling.
- on the arm spring mechanisms, there are 2 possible positions you can insert the mechanisms, if you insert it, and the tab is 135 degree off, it wont work when you twist it, the spring will release before getting into the correct position, so of that happens, remove the mech from the hole, and rotate the mechanism 90 degrees and put back in the hole so the tab is only 45 degrees off, then when you twist it, the spring is correctly tensioned. By doing this, the method they suggested for installation worked fine for me.
- as I stated above, consider mounting both the provided end LED lighting, and the original LEDs on the front arms, underneath, just parrallel the connections inside at the supplied LED. Its hard to see any lights from below, otherwise.
- I definately recommend a spot of hotmelt glue to hold the antennae at the 45 degree angle, I screwed around for awhile trying to get them to stay put untill the covers were on, and finally glued them.
- I suggest using the supplied cap screws they give you for the main cover, they are deep down inside the holes, they go in hard the first time, and easy to strip the Phillips heads. ( They don't apply a seperate number to the cap screws in the instructions, they just give you both Phillips and cap screws for the cover.)
- in the English subtitle instructions, I think they missed the step where you install the battery compartment end/ cover piece. (or maybe I slept thru it) ...anyway, before installing the mainboard and cutting soldering the motor and ESC wires, install the battery tray back piece that came with the kit. Its a real pain to install after the motherboard is soldered.


Regardless, first 2 flights were great, this weekend will be the distance testing.
Thanks to everyone before me that supplied comments, it helped.

So i have another hint for new bulders, when you install your antenae, dont turn them all in the same 45 Degree direction, turn one in front faceling 45 degees forward, and the other facing 45 degrees backwards. Same on back. i had all mine facing the same direction (45 degree slant to the rear) because they fit easier that way, and as a result I had horrible distance going forward, but great going backward. I trimmed the plastic off one on each side so they would fit the other way, (front and rear arms), and faced them angled to the front, and got much better distance going forward.
 
For those that have had these a while, how is durability? Flight times good, flight stability?

What solutions are people using for cases to transport them, is it close enough in size to fit in mavic cases?
 
I've read that there's no lock for the fold-able arms, risking them closing mid flight. Is this true risk or are they secure enough that it would not happen? Or maybe some mods can be done to secure them more?

Not true, its a spring loaded spindle that connects the arm to the body and allows the arm to open and close. There is tension when they are open so they don't close.
 
For those that have had these a while, how is durability? Flight times good, flight stability?

What solutions are people using for cases to transport them, is it close enough in size to fit in mavic cases?

I can get about 15 mins a battery
Pretty durable IMO
I think its like flying my P4 in sport mode all the time
Way bigger than a Mavic..

Comparison to my P4
IMG_20171001_053444.jpg
 
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Thanks. That's good to know. So it should be secure enough to not close during flight

From some of the flying I did last week with it, No they won't just close. I was pretty aggressive with it and never had an issue
 
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Some Maytech CF props that I had laying around.
 
IDK, I'm not a fan of the CF design where you see the actual black pattern. I like the look of the DJI ones. Either way they would slice a finger about the same I think.
 
I'm new here and I have a question: Will this Pavic mod work with a DJI Phantom 2 Vision Plus??? (I don't know the difference between the P2V and the P3, other than P3 landing gear extenders don't fit on a P2V+.)
 
This conversion was really hot back in Jan/Feb, the product is finally available and I received mine today. For those who dont know, you can do a pseudo-Mavic conversion from the Phantom 3. I ordered from snapgiz.com and it was a smooth transaction, they communicated well and no issues. It shipped and arrived in about 10 days after order from Singapore, shipped DHL with tracking. I ordered black, all they had was white so that what they sent with my approval.

I'll be doing install tomorrow, will hopefully have a build video in a few days. Its alot of parts, they all have logical places. Nothing huge, just some soldering and assembly required.

Unboxing video:


Pics (if you want more/better pics of a part just let me know):

uysKl1o.jpg


QFpNZfi.jpg

xTZkokm.jpg


CSjwVHI.jpg

kvdf1hD.jpg

5kauUZ0.jpg

dMVIf8V.jpg

This conversion was really hot back in Jan/Feb, the product is finally available and I received mine today. For those who dont know, you can do a pseudo-Mavic conversion from the Phantom 3. I ordered from snapgiz.com and it was a smooth transaction, they communicated well and no issues. It shipped and arrived in about 10 days after order from Singapore, shipped DHL with tracking. I ordered black, all they had was white so that what they sent with my approval.

I'll be doing install tomorrow, will hopefully have a build video in a few days. Its alot of parts, they all have logical places. Nothing huge, just some soldering and assembly required.

Unboxing video:


Pics (if you want more/better pics of a part just let me know):

uysKl1o.jpg


QFpNZfi.jpg

xTZkokm.jpg


CSjwVHI.jpg

kvdf1hD.jpg

5kauUZ0.jpg

dMVIf8V.jpg
Did you experience any compass anomolies? Im stuck on compass errors. Magnetic interference. Wont calibrate....i figure its the camera mounted 2 inches in front of it?. Also like mist things cloned in China...its lacking the extra airworthyness fittings and i feel the screws may fly apart under airbourne conditions... Installed my own for precaution.
20171013_191244.jpg
 

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