Move Battery out of Transmitter (P3P)

Feb 8, 2016
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Los Angeles
I have a boosted P3 transmitter that was driving me nuts. Well, it wasn't so much the transmitter, but the batteries in general, I guess, and the bird can take some credit for some of this because I was running non-standard batteries alongside the standard batteries in support of extended flight.

Anyone that has boosted a transmitter can probably relate to what I am talking about, especially if they went the standard, blue 12 volt lipo pack to drive the external Sunhans devices.

You know, this is quite a complicated array of batteries between the copter and transmitter to keep healthy. My solution to this for quite a while was to simply not think about it, just keep the **** batteries charged.

The transmitter is always somewhat of a problem. The battery is not accessible, nor do we have any empirical way to check on its health. Heck, this is only the aircraft controller... Furthermore, the battery driving the signal boost..., that **** blue battery, come on, admit it, you accidentally leave it on too - right? I must have five fairly new ones that have been over discharged and need to be chucked. But they are new, you see....

I had been toying with the idea taking the transmitter battery out, and bringing solid leads out instead. I had planned on bringing the balance circuitry out as well, but it turned it was not necessary, since it is not used internally. I actually did this before Xmas and I am going by memory here, and more importantly, I am reporting tried and proven results. In other words, this is one of my better ideas, and I am glad I did it. The standard battery is a 2s HV, I forget the exact size, but you can look it up. I am including a picture of what I used which is substantially bigger in capacity, but do note, it is not necessary to use an HV. We don't need to count our grams since we are not trying to keep something airborne. Even more importantly, is the absence of large capacity 2s batteries of the HV type. But again, doesn't matter. Just use a standard 2s Lipo, but of a capacity larger than the factory battery.

I haven't really explained what I have accomplished by doing this yet, although, experienced fliers know. First of all, I now have a battery I can maintain in professional way. This battery has both power leads, and balance leads for proper charging. I can carry an extra batty if I want, although I think the battery I chose could drive that transmitter (and boosters) for a week, easy. And, I can fast charge, or maintain the battery properly, like put it in storage mode.

The newer Sunhans boosters are not only slightly more powerful and smaller, they will run on as little as 5v (DC). They, too, may be driven by this new battery, further simplifying this controller.

In removing the original battery from the transmitter, a neat cavity adjacent to the bottom of the is made available. This is a perfect place to organize further power connections such as feeds to the signal boosters. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of that, just take my word for it. There is plenty of room. It is right where you want it.

Ok, cheers, and good luck if you decide to do it. I have other controllers that I used to grab first because they had less to go wrong battery-wise as standard DJI, but, this controller is now my absolute favorite. It is so powerful, and my confidence in knowing where the power is as well as the amount is hard to ignore.

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Reactions: Mark The Droner
Oct 14, 2016
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UK Brit living Latvia
As far as I know - the internal factory battery is a standard 2S and not LiHV .... 6000mAh 7.4V

Anyway whether its a HV or not makes no real difference in fact as its capacity in the 2S range that is important ...


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