I bricked my p3s with ftp range mod - let's fix it together

Thank you for your valuable suggestion Vadar. I have rechecked the Tx-Rx connections and they are correct. Here is a picture of the back of my UART. It says something about 5v and 3v options. Any idea how to check which one is selected? I have a voltmeter.
20161013_003414.jpg
 
Hmm, you got me on this one. Looks like those are solder points intended for jumper pins so you could select 3.3V or 5V but the pins were not put in. If you reference message #339 in this thread, you'll see the reference to the 5V requirement for the AC. I assume the UART is 3.3V by default given you were able to get access to the RC. You could solder a wire from the center solder point to the 5V solder point and try that but I cannot guarantee you won't fry something in the process. Just guessing at this point.
 
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Vadar thanks to your timely suggestion on the 5 volt input to the AC i've been able to save my phantom 3 standard. It works now, both AC and RC.

The issue was the CP2102 UART not being able to provide 5volts. I bought a chinese Arduino Uno clone and it worked flawlessly with the AC. I was able to fix the rcS file on the AC and the RC and AC are now linked correctly.

Many thanks Vadar.

Folks please remember to use a UART that can provide 5 volts to the AC otherwise it may not work.
 
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Hi to all i have made terminal conection to a remote gl358wa using cp 2102 wia putty and cant understand whats wrong becuse when i type in the boot comand start boot and at the end i get eror mesages what i dont understand what it means so is there out someone who can me explain how this sistem works

Sent from my HUAWEI SCL-L21 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
So not sure who this might help but I found that you can indeed force a downgrade on the Bird's firmware. Maybe this might help someone with a bricked bird.

Put FW 1.5 on your SD card, Press and hold the Sync button before turning the bird on. Turn the Bird on while still holding the Sync button for at least 10 seconds. You will here the usual FW upgrade beeps and the gimbal light will flash Red/Green. After about 10-15 mins, upgrade/downgrade will be completed and the gimbals light will stay Green and you will get a different beeping telling you that it has finished. Look at the contents of the SD card for proof.

(After 1.6.8 update) Phantom 3S Weak RC signal problem SOLVED!!!

Post #23 is where I did it.

========== 2014.01.01 00:00:14 remo-con disconnect======
Packet: P3C_FW_V01.05.0070.bin
Upgrading ...
Result: Success.
This didn't work for me, I had to to get the console pins on the wifi board on the drone to restore it correctly
 
Hey! You've connected the Arduino wrongly! That's why! There is hope for your drone once it didn't damage the drone board due to the wrong connection...

Here is what to do, based on your pictures

Remove the jumper cable from the AREF pins (Where did you get instructions to do that???)
Instead: Take the same jumper cable and connect RESET to GND on the left hand input connections.
Now move the orange jumper cable from the left side to a GND input on the right side.

See this youtube link where the guy does it:

Basically that will cause the Arduino to work in TTL 5v which is what you need.
Follow my instructions carefully and good luck!
Thanks Mate , works for me!
 
Vadar thanks to your timely suggestion on the 5 volt input to the AC i've been able to save my phantom 3 standard. It works now, both AC and RC.

The issue was the CP2102 UART not being able to provide 5volts. I bought a chinese Arduino Uno clone and it worked flawlessly with the AC. I was able to fix the rcS file on the AC and the RC and AC are now linked correctly.

Many thanks Vadar.

Folks please remember to use a UART that can provide 5 volts to the AC otherwise it may not work.
Same here! Now I have a Cp2102 UART 3.3V (RC) & Arduino UNO 5V (Drone) in my tool bag now
 
Thank you sparkymonkey! After a lot of playing around, I managed to fix it!

I ended up soldering my GND cable to one of the other GND pads, they're all common - this gives you a hell of a lot more space to play with.
I also managed to solder a cable on to the TX pad (but not the RX pad) with a little bit of patience and some solder flux.
Finally, those resistors do in fact map to the TX and RX pads respectively, so if you've managed to rip one off, try soldering the GND to another GND pad, and either the TX or RX on to their respective pads, and then all you have left is to hold one jumper lead against the corresponding resistor.

Hope this helps anyone who got into the same stupid position that I did!

I've added a diagram to explain myself a little more clearly :)
TX and RX Resistors
Thanks for this additional info on the resistors, I too ended up with one too many solder attempts, mainly as I was trying to get the 3.3V CP2102 UART to work on the bird, which wasn't going to work until I got the Arduino UNO for 5V. I had to hold BOTH pins on the resistors under some tape with a finger, while juggling multiple attempts at reaching around to press the power on the done, then reaching for the ESC key, then one handed cut & paste the recovery commands, meanwhile the board was starting to get pretty warm under my fingers.
 
Never thought I'd find a solution to my problem! But I did! Thanks to this forum.

Would anyone be so kind and post for complete noobs and idiots like I am what the last steps exactly are one has to do?

I managed to solder the interface and also got it to boot the the recovery firmware. Someone posted a detailed PDF (Jack*****) with all steps, except for the last few ones. As Hyperterm screen falls apart when I tried to edit the rcs file with VIM I used Filezilla to open the rCs file while connected to the RC's AP. For editing I used Notepad++, set the attributes to 775 (was 777) and then closed the connection and power cycled the RC. But then again it did NOT work (same problem persists), so I guess the last few step are crucial but reading this whole thread I did no find a guide what to do after the

" mount -t jffs2 mtd3 /tmp/flash

Then you can go to /tmp/flash/etc/init.d folder and repair the rcS."

part.

Please help me :cool:

Again, I am absolutley not familiar with linux commands.
 
Never thought I'd find a solution to my problem! But I did! Thanks to this forum.

Would anyone be so kind and post for complete noobs and idiots like I am what the last steps exactly are one has to do?

I managed to solder the interface and also got it to boot the the recovery firmware. Someone posted a detailed PDF (Jack*****) with all steps, except for the last few ones. As Hyperterm screen falls apart when I tried to edit the rcs file with VIM I used Filezilla to open the rCs file while connected to the RC's AP. For editing I used Notepad++, set the attributes to 775 (was 777) and then closed the connection and power cycled the RC. But then again it did NOT work (same problem persists), so I guess the last few step are crucial but reading this whole thread I did no find a guide what to do after the

" mount -t jffs2 mtd3 /tmp/flash

Then you can go to /tmp/flash/etc/init.d folder and repair the rcS."

part.

Please help me :cool:

Again, I am absolutley not familiar with linux commands.

Holy Smokes !! Just found the answer and solution for my problem!

VADAR , thanks for putting together a complete guide till the last step! You did my day (week, month ...)
 
Hi Folks, I accidentally tore off the RX0 solder pad on the wifi module in my remote controller while trying to fix it. I read that for the aircraft "holding jumper cable next to the corresponding resistor" may also work. Any similar suggestion for the RC in my case? Thanks in advance.
 
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Hey folks. I will admit firstly that i've only beeing flying for approx 3-4 weeks...total flying newb.. Technically minded 20 yr IT admin and as a hobby I repair Macbooks / tablets and phones. I recently bought a water damaged Spark which is now fully funcftionaly so i decided to go bigger and get a "radio faulty" P3S. No prior research just a buy it and see...

I've come to learn from the last week that both RC and Bird were / are bricked. i had an ftdi1232 lying around from my raspberrry Pi & IOT pile and have proceeded to hook them up. All good. now here's my dilemma.

RC is no longer an issue but when i connected up the Bird i GOT Bad Magic number and dropped to prompt ( ar7240> ).

I can boot into the backup partition it seems and i see the bird create the AP and the DJI Go App (iPad mini 2) connects, firmware version is detected and it goes through the normal upgrade process but upoon reboot im back to square 1.

at one point the bird was unable to use primary / or backup but i'd resolved this by transferring the flash.bin uploaded in this thread using ymodem as opposed to kermit.

various other issues like completely wiping out the rcS_... files abnd typing them out from scratch in Vim.. i've had fun...

Credit to the people and the hard work put in to find out what lines to hook into / files to edit and the numurous people helping others to un-brick their drones. I hope to continue sharing my journey but in the mean time if anyone has tried setting up a bootp / tftp / rarp server on a raspberry pi please let me know.

If i let the bird boot I get this

U-Boot 1.1.4 (May 29 2015 - 14:32:45)

MI124
DRAM: 32 MB
Flash: 8 MB
In: serial
Out: serial
Err: serial
Press ESC to abort autoboot in 5 seconds
BOOTP broadcast 1
BOOTP broadcast 2
BOOTP broadcast 3
BOOTP broadcast 4
BOOTP broadcast 5

So My IT mind is telling me that i must be able to crack this bit..
 
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Hi, so I got into the serial console, can esc into u-boot or see the same error as you:

init started: BusyBox v1.22.1 (2015-11-16 16:28:58 CST)
starting pid 219, tty '': '/etc/init.d/rcS'
can't run '/etc/init.d/rcS': No such file or directory
can't open /dev/ttyS0: No such file or directory
process '/bin/login' (pid 220) exited. Scheduling for restart.
can't open /dev/ttyS0: No such file or directory

So, could you tell us which software you used to unpack the firmware file? It doesn't seem to be zip-format? And a few more details about how you uploaded the firmware file? Did you write the firmware/flash from u-boot (uploaded with Kermit?), and to which address? I really would not like to mess up this controller more than it is. A step-by-step list of exactly what you did would be very appreciated.

You've really brought us a lot further! Thanks.
Hi ElMalo,
This is my 1st post, I’m landed at your post after searching for message “can't open /dev/ttyS0: No such file or directory” because I accidentally execute ./reboot
Currently I’m trying to fix the gimbal that having problem with wifi.
Update firmware always fail with log mentioned that [00 07] device not detected.
Can you please teach me how yo resolve this problem?
 
Hi ElMalo,
This is my 1st post, I’m landed at your post after searching for message “can't open /dev/ttyS0: No such file or directory” because I accidentally execute ./reboot
Currently I’m trying to fix the gimbal that having problem with wifi.
Update firmware always fail with log mentioned that [00 07] device not detected.
Can you please teach me how yo resolve this problem?

Hi to all once i fixed my bird the problem was in the remote i didn cant conect to the bird but after i crashed my failure turn off motors in mid air i replced the failed parts an the ribbon to but i get the same error firmware always fail [00 07] device not detected.
how can i conect to the bird i have arduino uno clone with ch 340 on it do i need to pull the reset pin to ground and do i need any code to upload to the arduino and after i can conect to the bird ?
 

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