Extending the wifi range of the FC40 camera

sohail99 said:
Anyways, I had just ordered a 2 axis gimball from good luck buy. And I hope this repeater setup will help me stream video feed from a GoPro that I'll eventually get. (Waiting for the gopro4! :lol: )


FYI - the gopro video stream SUCKS.
I have the 3+ with a Galaxy Note 2 and the lag is still 2 - 3 seconds.

Also, not many routers work well with extended the gopro as it is.
That and running wifi on the gopro drains the battery fast.
 
sohail99 said:
With the stock FC40, I used to get ~ 300 to maybe 400m if I was lucky. And most of the time the video feed used to cut out or get jumpy before it got out of visual range.

300-400m stock? I get about 300 feet stock which is about 100m... How is your video feed going so much farther?
 
Oliver84 said:
sohail99 said:
With the stock FC40, I used to get ~ 300 to maybe 400m if I was lucky. And most of the time the video feed used to cut out or get jumpy before it got out of visual range.

300-400m stock? I get about 300 feet stock which is about 100m... How is your video feed going so much farther?

it really all depends on hardware (smartphone) and location.
If you are in a desert with no wifi anywhere, you will go much further.

If you are in the city, dont expect too much
 
Hi all, I've been watching the forum for a while and decided to purchase a TP Link TL-MR3040 router to use it for its repeater mode. I connected it up with the help of a friend and I can definitely see the difference in distance. It's easily doubled the range on the stock camera setup. Flying high and about 50 feet away from me I can take it totally out of sight and the camera is still fine. I find flying low say 50-100ft the camera range is not as good but still better than stock. I used to have a Vision (sadly no more) and miss the telemetry a lot but would say the camera range is nearly as good as I was getting with the stock Vision. I will probably try some aerial mods but I'm not that good at soldering. I moded the repeater on the vision to use 5db TP link antennas but that was just using pigtails and drilling small holes and replacing the push on terminals on the board. The MR3040 in my opinion is a must have for any fc40 owner :)
 
dragonash said:
sohail99 said:
IIVII said:
great find Sohail :)

here's how to add an external antenna to this repeater :

http://youtu.be/nhIn6D_2YiE

http://www.minipwner.com/index.php/foru ... ntenna-mod


i bet with a Sunhans 2.5W booster and a good antenna added to the mix u can easly reach 1km with the stock fc40 cam :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141259266986?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT


omg, i cant get the cover off the router for ****!


check out the link below .. it seems he used the credit card trick to get the cover off.

http://i-net.com.ua/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=22
 
FINALLY... The people I have been trying to find.

I have had about 20 flights with my fc40 now and want to extend the range of the fpv.

I use an ipad mini with stock camera.

In a nut shell what should I buy.

TP Link TL-MR3040 ???? is this the best or the HAWKING HWREN2 ??????

Any help really appreciated.
 
I gave it an attempt and I managed to solder it! Doesnt help that the tip of my soldering iron is beyond corroded and barely keeps the temperature. I never do this stuff!

Anyway, i did a quick test from my balcony (on foot). Had my wife hold the cam and I walked outside, keeping LOS.

I hit 600ft before I went around the bank and lost LOS.
The picture was still smooth before I went around the bank, so I think it could have gone much further!

Here is my handy-work!
(not the prettiest of things)
The cover really doesnt shut completely anymore lol Nothing a velcro strap cant fix!
 

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I gave it an attempt and I managed to solder it! Doesnt help that the tip of my soldering iron is beyond corroded and barely keeps the temperature. I never do this stuff!

Sounds like you need to re tin the tip and you will get much better soldering results. a dirty tip makes it hard the the solder to flux and flux is what not only keeps the solder joint clean and to help it flow right but it also helps the solder to melt. dirty solder wont melt easy. and wont stick well either.

To retip your iron get it up to heat and then take a wet paper towel (or an old cotton rag will work to. fold up the towel a few times and wet it a tiny bit so it dont burn an squeezes the hot tip with the wet paper towel and try to wipe as much solder off as you can and dip the tip in some flux and try wiping it off a few more times. IF it still dont come clean and if its corroded like you said. take some sand paper to it then retin it. by dipping the end in some flux then take some fluxed solder and touch it to the end and wipe the excess off with the wet paper towel or rag. and you should end up with a nice silver colored coating of solder on the iron and you will get some nice clean and smooth easy solder joints. a clean well tinned iron makes a big difference. some times if soldering near plastic if you hit the plastic by acident it gets all in the tinning and makes it get real dirty and corroded pretty quick.

on closing the case if its just because the edges are now messed up and any bs broken off try cleaning up the edge some with a razor blade and some hot glue to stick it together if you happen to have any. Its good stuff for things you can want to take apart again some day and even for holding down wires and covering your solder joints with but can be peeled off if needed with out damaging any thing.
 
Hello friends! I write from Spain with google translator. sorry for my bad English...

I have long time looking at this forum and I would like to extend our phantom signal. I have seen this portable router with battery which could be a very good option to tp-link 3040.
It is very cheap, only 16-17 $ , and sell it in a lot of places, ebay, DX, bangood ...
here's specifications: http://www.hametech.com/html/product/view4-47-66.html

We could do the modification as in the tp-link 3040 adding a more powerful antenna and get caught. what do you think? someone knows this wifi router?
Thanks. Regards from SPAIN!!!
 
J.James said:
I gave it an attempt and I managed to solder it! Doesnt help that the tip of my soldering iron is beyond corroded and barely keeps the temperature. I never do this stuff!

Sounds like you need to re tin the tip and you will get much better soldering results. a dirty tip makes it hard the the solder to flux and flux is what not only keeps the solder joint clean and to help it flow right but it also helps the solder to melt. dirty solder wont melt easy. and wont stick well either.

To retip your iron get it up to heat and then take a wet paper towel (or an old cotton rag will work to. fold up the towel a few times and wet it a tiny bit so it dont burn an squeezes the hot tip with the wet paper towel and try to wipe as much solder off as you can and dip the tip in some flux and try wiping it off a few more times. IF it still dont come clean and if its corroded like you said. take some sand paper to it then retin it. by dipping the end in some flux then take some fluxed solder and touch it to the end and wipe the excess off with the wet paper towel or rag. and you should end up with a nice silver colored coating of solder on the iron and you will get some nice clean and smooth easy solder joints. a clean well tinned iron makes a big difference. some times if soldering near plastic if you hit the plastic by acident it gets all in the tinning and makes it get real dirty and corroded pretty quick.

on closing the case if its just because the edges are now messed up and any bs broken off try cleaning up the edge some with a razor blade and some hot glue to stick it together if you happen to have any. Its good stuff for things you can want to take apart again some day and even for holding down wires and covering your solder joints with but can be peeled off if needed with out damaging any thing.


Thanks for the tips!
I dont have flux and im lucky i have old solder from radio shack lol I stole the iron from work years ago and barely know how to use it. A couple of youtube videos pointed me in the right direction. But your sandpaper trick totally worked!
 
We could do the modification as in the tp-link 3040 adding a more powerful antenna and get caught. what do you think? someone knows this wifi router?
Thanks. Regards from SPAIN!!!

I dot now whats inside it but it should be able to be moded. It may even use plug in type antennas inside useally if they do they will have a mini pcx connectoer in them.

that also seems like it would be good because its got its own built in rechargeable battery and you wont have to lug around an extra external battery or do any modifications to the power to power it.


Thanks for the tips!
I dont have flux and im lucky i have old solder from radio shack lol I stole the iron from work years ago and barely know how to use it. A couple of youtube videos pointed me in the right direction. But your sandpaper trick totally worked!
That must be flux core solder if its sticking. Which is what most people use for soldering electrics.
 
so with the modded tp-link and directional antenna, I easily got 1000ft.
The signal was still strong too, so it could have gone much further. But I didnt test it because I had to go over some trees. I just dont feel comfortable doing that lol

So in the end, this successfully did what I wanted the DJI extender for.
I no longer need my large ddwrt flashed, antenna modified linksys 54G rotuer with external battery sitting on the floor next to me, stationary.

I now have a very small and light router with a directional antenna attached to a clip on my remote.
 
We'll I know nothing about networks and networking but hooking the MR3040 was very easy. I just changed the 0 to a 1 as the SSID.

This forum has been all the help I needed to get it done.

Thanks for the help guys
 
canvey1981 said:
We'll I know nothing about networks and networking but hooking the MR3040 was very easy. I just changed the 0 to a 1 as the SSID.

This forum has been all the help I needed to get it done.

Thanks for the help guys

you could go 1 step further and rename it FC40_mynamehere

As long as the app reads FC40_ it will pick it up as an access point
 
so i definitely got over 1100+ ft and still had a good signal.

I started getting nervous, so I turned around. I could no longer see the quad, so I was full FPV.
Thats when I found out the signal from the camera is strongest when it's back is towards me. Most likely because of where the antenna is situated.

As soon as I turned the phantom toward me, I lost signal. So now I was disoriented on my heading. Nothing a little homelock couldnt remedy, but still, nice to know!

Oh, it was also my first time flying at dusk. The drone looks so nice in the sky when it starts getting dark lol
 
dragonash said:
so i definitely got over 1100+ ft and still had a good signal.

I started getting nervous, so I turned around. I could no longer see the quad, so I was full FPV.
Thats when I found out the signal from the camera is strongest when it's back is towards me. Most likely because of where the antenna is situated.

As soon as I turned the phantom toward me, I lost signal. So now I was disoriented on my heading. Nothing a little homelock couldnt remedy, but still, nice to know!

Oh, it was also my first time flying at dusk. The drone looks so nice in the sky when it starts getting dark lol


Completely agree with you!! I had once flown my phantom at dusk and I was able to make out which way it was facing, even from far off, as its LEDs were really a big help.

And nice job on getting amazing range! You can prolly do the FC40 camera antenna mod too to increase range further as well as not to lose FPV while turning around.

I too have used home lock on multiple occasions when I had flown the phantom far and out of sight and lost orientation.

Btw I'll be attaching the gimbal(for gopro) and use the FC40 camera (prolly mounted to the battery door) for FPV and gopro for high quality video.

Any battery you would recommend for increasing my flight time with increased payload!? I already have phantom2 props(and those things are so noisy, lol)
 

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