Error (29) Driving me nuts!!

[ABLE1]

Hello all,
I had a mishap today with my FC40 where a tree limb reached out and touched me in a bad way. Drone dropped from about 20 feet. After which the LED started to flash yellow.

I brought it home and did a little looking inside to see if something had pulled apart. Nothing was observed.
Then I connected the USB to computer and opened Assistant. Got a Error (29) and have not found a solution.

I started the calibration of the controller as suggested using the RC Assistant and all looks good.

When I use Nazam Assistant I can check the motors but when I go to Basic/RC I get no response.
At the bottom I have a Green LED with Flashing Blue LED. MODE: Failsafe MC OUTPUT: OFF

Under Control Mode Switch it seems to be locked on Failsafe (in Blue) I can't seem to find a way to change that. When I choose START Calibration nothing changes when I move the sticks.

I have done a "Restore default settings" and "Reset BTU Info" none of which makes any difference.

I have done an "Advance Calibration" on the "Tools" tab and get a warning about "Temperature of MC is too high, to achieve best effect of calibration, please power off of MC, cooling for 5 minutes and then re-do the Advanced Calibration.

I did all of that and nothing changes.

After all of this I am at a loss of what the problem is and what the solution might be.

Anyone have a clue or a hint??

Thanks in advance for any assist.

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

Here's some reading for you, maybe it will help. I don't know the answer or I would share it.

http://www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1010

 

[ABLE1]

Here's some reading for you, maybe it will help. I don't know the answer or I would share it.

http://www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1010

Thanks WY for the link. Similar problem but not the answer. In that link there is a link to an advanced manual on linking the transmitter to, (I believe) a P2. It shows a picture of where the link button is located but it not the same on the FC40. The FC40 link button can be reached through the battery door. Found this out after taking the FC40 apart.

It does not link as described so either that is the problem or there is a different procedure.

Anyone shed some light on this linking procedure for the FC40??

Thanks in advance for any assist.

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

Try this link, type your search data in the grey box in the middle of the page, not at the top.

https://cse.google.com/cse/publicurl?cx=014775389315664725445:ejku2ysgyhi

 

[IflyinWY]

Hey Les,

Any progress or new info to share? The weekend is here and ya want to fly, don't you?

 

[ABLE1]

WY, thanks for the check in. Progress zero. Too much work on the plate with too little time to dig into this right now.

With the little time I did spend in research I can't seem to find much on this issue. This all started with a 20' fall. I could connect via USB to the FC40, motors test started OK. Although there was an issue of failure of some sort that I could not define or correct, I went with the thought that Controller lost sync with the FC40.

So I tried the linking procedure (which I am not sure is for the FC40).
Plug in Battery. Red flashing LED on board.
Press the Link Switch. LED goes green/orange color.
Turn on Controller. Nothing changes. (LED supposed to go Solid Green I think)

Tried this multiple times with various thoughts on procedure but nothing changed.

Can't or have not found the real procedure for the FC40. The case does not need to be opened since the switch is reachable through the battery door. The board has a different layout than is listed on the Phantom procedure sheet.

The typing that I have done in this post is more time that I have spent since first posting on this issue.

I have work to handle this weekend so flying is not on the charts. Makes it easier to deal with since it going to rain.
I may have to some time to more research in a week or so unless someone chimes in here with a good clue.

Again, thanks for check. Happy flying to you!!!

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

I'm stuck inside now due to rain as well. I'll keep checking for a solution.

I think you might want to try linking with the controller ON vs Off then on.

Other than that, I dunno, but will continue to look.

I've dropped my bird more than 20 feet onto hard gravel road, darn power pole got in the way, and put a couple new props on and flew. Prop guards help cushion the impact.

See Ya

 

[ABLE1]

I'm stuck inside now due to rain as well. I'll keep checking for a solution.

I think you might want to try linking with the controller ON vs Off then on.

Other than that, I dunno, but will continue to look.

I've dropped my bird more than 20 feet onto hard gravel road, darn power pole got in the way, and put a couple new props on and flew. Prop guards help cushion the impact.

See Ya

WY and ALL,

I have a little time to get back to thinking about this problem. Not that I am having any success but I am working on the issue.
The attached is the instructions for Linking Tx to Rx. Not sure it can be viewed easily since I took a picture of the page.


What it states is that you are to press the "Link Button" for two seconds until the LED Indicator blinks, the release the button.
Then Push the throttle stick to the lowest position and turn on the transmitter. Then if the LED indicator of the receiver turns off, the link between the Tx and Rx has succeeded.

That does not happen. Here are the differences. When I power the FC40 the LED on the board is already blinking. When I press the button it goes to a green/orange blink. When I turn on the Tx nothing changes.

So I am thinking that either I am using the wrong procedure for the FC40, it is already linked, or something more serious is going on besides the "Error 29" problem.

The "Error 29" according to the software has something to do with the Throttle Position being out of spec. Although nothing was done to the Tx throttle trim or anything of the kind. The information is rather skimpy at best as to how to proceed. It seems that the writer of the information "assumes" that the person reading knows more on the topic than they can at the time.

I did notice that the battery that I was flying with at the time had a small split in the shrink wrap on the corner. Checking voltage it shows that one cell is now at zero. I am guessing that happened in the fall somehow. That battery is now in the recycle bag.

My hope is that somebody is reading this other than you and can respond with some hint of what will cure or fix this problem.

It is sad that there seems to be a limited supply of detailed documentation or troubleshooting information on this magical machine.
I realize it is somewhat new stuff on the market but I can't believe that I am the first to experience this problem.

Maybe others have been there, done that, but have not taken the time to share.

My next step will be to find the DJI tech support phone number. I don't much hope in achieving that goal but I am going to try.

Sorry for the long read. I will just end with one word.

HELP!!!

 

[IflyinWY]

The recycle bag is a really bad place to dispose of any LiPo battery.

A damaged battery is a fire hazard and should be dealt with in a special way.

 

[IflyinWY]

Please confirm the position of the S1 and S2 switches.

They should both be up, unless you have changed that in the NAZA assistant software.
It sounds to me like your S1 switch is either selected to "Failsafe", or broken in that position.


Can't read your picture. A link would be much better, like this:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://wiki.dji.com/en/index.php/Phantom_FC40-Transmitter
Link Procedures

Power off transmitter and power on aircraft. You will see the link indicator blinking red.

Press link button and hold until the link indicator blinks yellow. Release the link button.

Power on transmitter and link indicator should switch off. This indicates that the link has been successfully established.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copied straight out of the manual.
I don't know where you saw something about moving the throttle.

 

[ABLE1]

The recycle bag is a really bad place to dispose of any LiPo battery.

A damaged battery is a fire hazard and should be dealt with in a special way.

Ok, all has been/being handle or dealt with in a special way.

Life goes on.

Thanks for the concern.

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

I've called for backup. Wish we solved it already.

 

[ABLE1]

Please confirm the position of the S1 and S2 switches.

They should both be up, unless you have changed that in the NAZA assistant software.
It sounds to me like your S1 switch is either selected to "Failsafe", or broken in that position.


Can't read your picture. A link would be much better, like this:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://wiki.dji.com/en/index.php/Phantom_FC40-Transmitter
Link Procedures

Power off transmitter and power on aircraft. You will see the link indicator blinking red.

Press link button and hold until the link indicator blinks yellow. Release the link button.

Power on transmitter and link indicator should switch off. This indicates that the link has been successfully established.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copied straight out of the manual.
I don't know where you saw something about moving the throttle.

Thanks for the extra input. I had not found the procedure you copied but I was unknowingly doing it as well. When I tried that procedure a few times with the same effects. The link LED continues to flash Green/Yellow or just Yellow as it states.

S1 and S2 are in the up position. They are in the Off and GPS position. I made no changes there.

I have tried a variety of stick and switch positions nothing changes. The only thing I know for sure is that pressing the link switch puts it into a different mode. Most likely "Link Mode". Obviously getting out of that mode seems to be the problem. Or at least part of the problem.

I am starting to think although it can presently or easily be seen that when it fell out of the sky some electrical connection was/is broken. From what I can see the only connection to the receiver board are two flat 3 wire/pin connectors from the Naza. Both have silicon on the connector to keep them in place and it is still intact.

I am thinking that I will do some additional surgery dissection tomorrow to see what is underneath the receiver board. May have to break out my microscope since the SMD's are small.

I will let you know.

Thanks,

Les

 

[ABLE1]

Aright, here is the latest on this issue. I have removed the screws that holds the main board the NAZA is mounted on. I have removed the screws that mounts the receiver board that is under the main board. I have inspected the the board with my microscope and can not see any breaks in any solder joints. They may still be there but I can't see any. I have checked the ohm resistance of the cable between the connectors to the NAZA to the solder pins on the receiver board and it is good at 0.4 ohms.

Since this was the first time looking at the board and the connectors it is hard to say if all "l@@ks" correct. However, being in an electronic field of one type or another for over 30 years I can say that nothing looks bad or questionable.

In the picture of the bottom of the receiver board there is a black spot to the right of the sticker. This is actually a drop of some sealant. Why it is there can only be explained by maybe it was dropped by accident during assembly. There is a SMD component there but the sealant does not look to serve any purpose there.

Now for the next strange reaction. After complete re-assembly and on the first power up. The receiver LED flashed red as it always has. Then upon pressing the Link switch it went solid red. Turning on the Tx changed nothing.

Then on the second power up the LED was flashing, upon pressing the Link switch the LED went OFF. Power up the Tx and nothing changed.

Then on the third and since the reaction as been as before with flashing LED and then pressing the Link switch the LED goes to flashing yellow and there is no change when turning on the Tx

Needless to say something had changed for a period of time. Of course not knowing what should or should not happen makes this sort of troubleshooting deductive reasoning kind of a fools errand. Normally my rule in troubleshooting is finding the 'nots'. Not this, not that. Once I have found all the 'nots', what ever is left is the problem. At this point, I am still looking for 'nots'.

Not the cable.
Not the connectors.
Not a loose connector.
Not the solder connection (that i can see).
Not a burnt component on the board.
Not something visible. (Even if I don't know what I am looking for)

My approach on this before I did my dis-assemble was that I can't make it much worse. Well I did not. All is still the same.

Really I don't have a clue as to what my next step will be. I will not post the picture of my face here but suffice it to say that it is a look of ....................... DUH?!?!?!?!

Hopefully this little dissertation will or may help someone else out there. So far it is not helping me.

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

In the picture of the bottom of the receiver board there is a black spot to the right of the sticker. This is actually a drop of some sealant. Why it is there can only be explained by maybe it was dropped by accident during assembly. There is a SMD component there but the sealant does not look to serve any purpose there.

Now for the next strange reaction. After complete re-assembly and on the first power up. The receiver LED flashed red as it always has. Then upon pressing the Link switch it went solid red. Turning on the Tx changed nothing.

Then on the second power up the LED was flashing, upon pressing the Link switch the LED went OFF. Power up the Tx and nothing changed.

Then on the third and since the reaction as been as before with flashing LED and then pressing the Link switch the LED goes to flashing yellow and there is no change when turning on the Tx


View attachment 19925

Great reply Les,

Strange that you would get 3 different reactions when pressing the link switch???

More importantly, does the "black spot" coincide with the location of the damage to your battery?
If the impact damaged the battery, it must have hit something inside hard enough to damage it as well. At least that's what I think.
Obviously the smart guys haven't come across the thread yet. It's just a matter of time. The help I asked said he had no idea.

 

[ABLE1]

WY,

After reading your reply and especially the part about the black spot coincide with battery damage, I decided to take another look. Originally I did not think the black spot was anything more than what I mentioned. But looking at the pictures I saw something that made me suspicious. So first the battery damage.

It is on the rear corner. Now I can't say that corner was just opposite the board area. But assuming that it was. The position was about 3/8" to 1/2" away from the black spot. Could the battery damage cause the black spot?? Looking at the black spot more closely. It still appears as I had described before. A drop of sealant of some kind and nothing more.

Then I saw this area at the edge of the board.

Flipping over the board there is an area in that corner that has a different look than does the surrounding areas.

Sorry, the zoom shot is not clear. Just can't get a good picture at that level.

At first when I looked at the area I was thinking the black spot sealant had a bit of over spray or something.

Now remember this is on the board opposite the area facing the battery. It is very difficult to get the light and the angle just right but it appears to be the effect of an electrical arc welding. Keep in mind that the bronze component in the corner is only about .100" square. That is 100 thousandths of an inch square.

After magnifying beyond what my naked eye could, I recognized what it really was.

So here is what I think happened. There may be other possibilities but this one certainly makes the most sense.

When the Phantom hit the immovable object called earth the battery kept moving as a result of a law called inertia and the corner ruptured, the cell shorted and a spark was thrown out into the internal cavity of the Phantom. This spark, also know as a plasma ball bounced around until it hit this corner of the receiver board. When that happened the plasma ball did what all plasma balls do, and shorted the electrical traces and components in this area with more arcing, sparking, and plasma. The leftovers of this event darkened the area carbon black with a mixture of incredibly small little balls of leftover cooled plasma. At that point the receiver board was rendered a boat anchor or paperweight. Now I believe that this super nova took no more than one or two nano seconds to complete. Not nearly enough time to even consider pulling the battery lead to prevent the melt down reaction. Or even think about getting a jar to catch the puff of smoke.

Now there is no way of knowing if a fall from a lesser height would have made any difference. I would be totally remiss if I did not mention that it was pilot error for getting to close to a tree limb that had the instinct or ability to reach out and touch the Phantom in a bad way. Can't blame the tree since that is just what trees do. And they do it very well.

What can be done to prevent this from happening again?? Good question, if I do say so myself!!
Well one sure way would be not to fly!! With that possibility off the table then maybe some sort of thin wall, heavy duty, carbon reinforced, crash resistant, non conductive barrier for the battery compartment to enclose the battery from the more sensitive components inside the Phantom.

Looking at the Phantom as it is, presently open, it would seem that something can be done or should have been done!!
That thought is for another day.

So now that I have somewhat determined the problem,I need to search for a solution. First reaction is; where do I purchase a replacement receiver board?? Can I even purchase a receiver board for a FC40?? What is the part number for said board??
Is my Phantom now a bunch of spare parts??

Anyone have a spare receiver board you want to send to a new loving home??

Thanks for reading and maybe shedding a tear or two. Maybe all of the above will be helpful to someone in the future.
Or at least make all aware of one more bad thing that can happen to ruin your day.

I am off to my next quest. A new board. And it is a holiday weekend. And the weather is beautiful for flying!!!

NOT!!!

Les

 

[IflyinWY]

So, there it is.
Now you know not to be welding in your phantom.
Thin shielding sounds like a very smart idea. Perhaps a seat belt for the battery which latches on the underside of the body. I have no idea how many times my bird has run into wood in the sky. The most spectacular was a 25 to 30 foot utility pole at high speed. The bird came crashing down on a gravel road. Busted props, guards, landing gear. Put a couple new props on and flew a few more batteries that day.

So have you started a "Wall of Shame" yet? I have...

The MultiStar 4000 mAh battery fits so tight in my bird, that I don't think it can do what yours did. My 2700s could bounce all over the place though.

I'm very surprised that battery did not set fire to itself.

This member may be able to help you with the board, hunch, if not him, possibly the classifieds here.

We're getting rained and expecting creeks to reach flood stage in 12 minutes. Glad I'm on the high ground.

 

[ABLE1]

The battery was a 3000 30C. The fit was not sloppy but better than stock.
I found a new receiver board on eBay and it is on the way. Should have it just about the time it starts to rain again.

I am hoping that the Error 29 goes away once the new board is install. Time will tell.

The high ground is always best. I am about 37' above the natural water line of the creek in the back. Even when it has hit the 100 year flood line multiple times in the past 35 years my basement was still 28' above the water line. I like it that way.

Good luck with the water thing.

Les