Dual Battery Mod

Ed209 · Mar 30, 2016

In my controlled tests where I compared the Horizon V3 split mod, my own split mod and the G6 2400s to 50%, I flew the G6 2400s 18:30 (50%).

hebs · Mar 31, 2016

Ed209 said:
I took apart the FPV customs mod and they are tapped into the switched power.

Same result here. Horizon modded DJI battery and Hyperion 2400s run as expected.

What is the benefit of soldering to the switched side? Apart from keeping the DJI battery and attached lipos unlinked until the battery is switched on... Wouldn't that switch the bird on as soon as you slot the battery in even without switching on the DJI battery?

Has anyone soldered to the unswitched side (always connected to the DJI Lipo)?

Surely if if was soldered to the unswitched side then the 'smart' part of the DJI battery system could also look after any attached lipos?

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hebs · Mar 31, 2016

Don't worry, just found the answer on page 38 of this thread. MVodhanel soldered to the unswitched side and it worked fine. Just waiting for my balance cables and XT60 connectors to arrive and I'll build myself a Horizon style mod from my 2 batteries and use the shell/board of the second to run other lipo's from in parallel. Then I'll conduct some more hover tests!

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shr00m · Apr 1, 2016

ive read through the thead and i cant really find a consensus... i am installing the dbs antenna on my bird and would like to do the dual battery mod to get the best time possible... i see a lot recommend the hyperion 2800s or is there a better option now for dual batterys? does the battery meter keep the charge properly?

Augusto Jimenez · Apr 1, 2016

Ed209 said:
The problem with all these jump starter type packs is the continuous current. 4 amps is not enough. I can't remember but I believe the total minimum required is something like 12A.

Info for many of us that want to know about batteries. An excellent reference: Battery Information Table of Contents, Basic to Advanced

FredzMaxxUAV · Apr 1, 2016

One of the advantages of a modded battery is that your P3 will keep on flying even if the main battery switches off for some reason. It will give a battery warning in the app, but you can go on flying. I don't know if this only works on the switched side though.

hebs · Apr 1, 2016

Good point - I suppose it depends where the potential problem would be. It would be better redundancy on the switched side then because there are less components to go wrong, but I'm guessing that means that I couldn't use the DJI charger to also charge the external lipo's at the same time.

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shr00m · Apr 1, 2016

are the FLOUREON 4S 14.8V 2200mAh 45C batteries good for the dual mod? running 2 of them with stock... the weight is 157 grams. would these work well?

Ed209 · Apr 1, 2016

I would stick with LiHV 15.2v packs.

shr00m · Apr 1, 2016

the turnigy 2800 packs are 316 grams is this too heavy to run two? is venom a good choice? lots on here are running 1800 and lots running 2400 and 2800 what is the best? flight time/maneuverability-wise do 1800s offer much more flight time than stock?

Ed209 · Apr 1, 2016

I have found so far the 2400s to be the best. 1800s perform pretty well too.

shr00m · Apr 1, 2016

i see the larger 5-6000 mah batteries.... would it be beneficial to remove the smart board from a dji battery and attach it inside like the stealth mod or under the drone and put 1 large battery in the stock bay? would this work?

Augusto Jimenez · Apr 1, 2016

shr00m said:
are the FLOUREON 4S 14.8V 2200mAh 45C batteries good for the dual mod? running 2 of them with stock... the weight is 157 grams. would these work well?

The theory says that 1st, The bigger voltage bat will use its energy to mainly charge the smaller voltage bat. Besides, if bird is flying, both will supply energy to the motors and other electronics and the current share (to the drone) will depend on each battery's internal resistance. Generally speaking the more powerfull the bat is, the less internal resistance. This same escenario will continue after the voltages of both bats equate. The contribution of each bat current to the load will remain depending on changing internal resistances.
The problem is that the voltage differential among bats will cause to suffer overload to the bigger voltage bat, because has to discharge at a very high current on both, the smaller bat and to the load. Mainly, the sudden discharge will cause shortage of its life.
In summary the best scenario is: to parallel batteries of the same voltage, same cycles of discharge (to diminish differential internal resistances) and also of the same type (for example, a switched ps with an external bat).
Bigger capacity of one of them is valid as long as they have the same voltage.

Augusto Jimenez · Apr 1, 2016

Ed209 said:
I would stick with LiHV 15.2v packs.

I beleive that's the best.

Augusto Jimenez · Apr 1, 2016

shr00m said:
the turnigy 2800 packs are 316 grams is this too heavy to run two? is venom a good choice? lots on here are running 1800 and lots running 2400 and 2800 what is the best? flight time/maneuverability-wise do 1800s offer much more flight time than stock?

Please reffer to the excellent work of hebs (1184)

shr00m · Apr 1, 2016

Augusto Jimenez said:
Please reffer to the excellent work of hebs (1184)

based on his post why not just run a single battery and remove dji battery? or 2 6600s and no dji battery? i dont understand why everyone runs the stock battery. i realize you have to use the smart battery board... but im confused i mean eventually the dji batterys die and why replace them w/ dji batteries??

dirtybum · Apr 1, 2016

shr00m said:
based on his post why not just run a single battery and remove dji battery? or 2 6600s and no dji battery? i dont understand why everyone runs the stock battery. i realize you have to use the smart battery board... but im confused i mean eventually the dji batterys die and why replace them w/ dji batteries??

All i can say to that shr00m is try it & report back