Yes, yes yes. I have a thread on something that involves this very issue. Mine is a brand new boxed drone from Best Buy, it has new motors but it a W322A version quad, and the 300B version remote. I did the antenna mod on mine, and after the install noticed pieces rattling around and a screw even. Of course some on this site cannot believe it wasn't user error, even though these were screw posts that I had no business unscrewing or messing with. It took multiple fixes, and then when I thought it was good to go, the RTH button imploded inside the unit. This was a brand new, unharmed, not abused device.
If your going to repair it or out of warranty, don't use superglue, as it cannot be repaired again if it's superglued, plus it doesn't seem to work that well anyway. I used locktite putty. I built up the post that were crumbled, let it harden a little then put the screws back in it, once hardened all the way your able to then tighten them into the putty. I also fixed the RTH button perfectly, but there because trying to fix the button that way didn't hold with the small amount of surface area (it broke in the first time I tested it) I made a sort of bracket out of the putty.
So, I may sell this remote with the mod on eBay, it's not the prettiest fix inside, but at least the outside looks new, and it's 100% functional. To be fair, I will include details of me fixing some broken post and that it's now fixed and, at least can always be taken apart down the road to replace battery in future, or whatever, I really don't think once you've fixed it the way I said, you'll have any issues if you take your time. My RC doesn't squeak or...can't put a name to it, while holding it it doesn't creak I guess is what we'd call it. Before I fixed it there was creaking when adjusting my hold, and then the rattling of parts...it's nice and solid, and I've flown the quad about 8 times maybe more since the fix.
DJI didn't over tighten the screws, that's not it, the plastic on mine at least actually crumbled and was both thin, and weak. A bad run to be sure, but the good news is this, it can be fixed so don't over think it, you have a 300B and not the throttled down less power 300C, meaning not only are the electronics fine even though the shells suck, but according to the guys that know, each iteration of controller is less powerful, neutered if you will? If it was/is an "A" model with the Di'Vinchi chipset then even better.
PS: I've opened and been inside my remote so many times I'm a pro at this point lol. Be careful you don't pull any ribbons out, it's easy to do but once you do it, you won't make mistake twice, it's also easy to fix if it happens, as long as it's not superglued. I didn't realize a ribbon was pulled after an initial test, because it was the take video button. If it's a "play" button or gimbal dial or something it may not be so visible on a quick test, when done check ALL buttons controls.