I have had problems with my Samsung Tab S2 connecting to my P4A. To solve this I enabled developer options in the tablet settings. Then go to USB configuration and select RNDIS Ethernet. Do this after the drone and RC are powered up and plug in the USB cable.
I have the same issue with my Samsung Tab S2. I have to go through the setup each time I want to fly the drone, do you? Just bought a CrystalSky, expensive way to solve a problem, but it works.
 
I truly believe that you should NEVER update a working drone. There is NOTHING in it for you. Only for the manufacturer that wants to add more control or limits because of holes found by hackers, adding limits to prevent problems by limiting performance, etc, etc. I almost never upgraded my P3P and it flew great all the time.
 
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Again! Dump DJI Go and use Litchi and forget firmware updates! Naysayers will say maybe ten percent have trouble but why take a chance? I’ve been flying perfectly since November 2016 and never updated except a VOLUNTARY Litchi update to get new features, not because I had to because DJI required it.
Good luck
Jim
WA5TEF
 
Bonjour,

Je vous écris en français, je sais que vous pouvez translater en anglais avec google translator.

Je suis dans une situation analogue à la vôtre mais avec moins de vols.
Après toutes ces manipulations avec la combinaison de touches + molettes sur RC, maintenant elle ne communique plus par USB, plus de communication avec DJI.
Avez-vous un document sur les combinaisons de touches et de molette pour les réglages de la RC GL300B. ???

J'espère que vous trouverez une solution à votre panne de drone.
Moi je continuerai à voler sans retour vidéo, j'ajouterai une caméra additionnelle (GoPro + émetteur 5Ghz pour le retrour vidéo.
La caméra à bord enregistre toujours sur la carte mémoire.

Merci pour votre attention.
Didier
 
Talking with 2 reputable DJI dealers, I was told unofficially the DJI has started sending out kill codes. I was warned do not do any further updates to my P3P.
What do you mean by "kill codes?" I haven't done a software upgrade yet, and now I need some info on this before I even consider it.
 
Il serait bon de savoir si cette information est réelle (code tueur), car il sera intéressant de réagir juridiquement massivement contre DJI sur le plan internationnal (tuer DJI grâce à Internet)
Lol
 
Bonjour tout le monde,

Non je ne crois pas aux codes tueurs malgré que c'est une possibilité, mais cela nuirait à l'image de marque de DJI.
Ceci dit, la dernière mise à jour à détruit partiellement le module arrière USB, incompatible avec les caractéristiques rapides entre DJI et la RC.
Il faut remplacer ce module par un module HDMI.
Ainsi Vous aurez à nouveau un retour vidéo et une connexion USB tablette.
Voir Buy HDMI Output Module (United States)

Voir aussi
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Salutations et bonne journée
Didier
 
(cross-posted on DJI forum)

I am trying very hard to remain civil, but after two months of not being able to use my P3P I'm kinda upset.

I am a FAA 107 licensed remote pilot with 350+ flights on my P3P with a GL300B RC . I've always kept my firmware updated to the latest version. The last update, P3X_FW_V01.11.0020.bin, completed successfully on the P3P, but DID NOT complete successfully on the controller via the GO app. I've been able to re-link the controller with the P3P, in that I can control the gimbal, start recording & start the motors. But GO refuses to see the P3P and connect.

So my first thought was to downgrade the RC firmware. When I hold down the GO hamburger menu for that, it says my current firmware version is "N/A", and no previous version is shown to roll-back-to. And being that it's a GL300B, the firmware can only be updated via the GO app (which it clearly won't) -- I can't use the USB port like on the GL300A (Hey DJI -- did somebody there actually said "I know -- let's take away the ONE FEATURE that would allow users recover from a failed firmware upgrade on their RC so they have no where to turn". Brilliant, but not a good way to get users to upgrade to a P4).

Anyway, here's what else I've tried many-multiple times:

-- Tried at least a half-dozen high-quality USB cables.
-- Tried with the latest GO on the following devices:
- Samsung 6 edge
- Samsung Galaxy-Tab-E-8.0
- Samsung SMT320 (used for the 350+ flights)
- iPad2
-- Tried all of the C1+C2+Shutter+scrollwheel combinations on the RC that are supposed to re-set to factory defaults and force an emergency firmware update.

The only thing I have left is to try progressively older versions if GO to see if any will recognized the corrupted or missing RC firmware and do an update, but that sounds like a long shot in the dark that I'll undertake if nothing else.

I also spent a couple hours on the DJI tech support chat -- no help at all -- my dog has a better understanding of the product!

I've also spoken to the support staff at two San Francisco repair facilities (one is DJI's authorized service center). Both told me that this is a "known problem", and the only solution is to send my controller into DJI, or just buy another used RC!!! That clearly implies that DJI's firmware update DAMAGED my RC, and I see dozens if not hundreds of other P3A and P3P users who are in the same situation -- after weeks of online sleuthing I have yet to see anyone find a solution.

So I challenge DJI, and any users here who think they know the solution, to post it here. I will follow your instructions to the letter and promptly let you know the results.But don't bother posting links to another forum posts unless they are newer than this one, because I've read/tried 'em all.

I've loved DJI products for the last 3 years, but what I won't do is pay to have DJI "fix" the problem they introduced. If that is truly the only solution, I will say adios DJI, and they will lose a strong advocate.

Thanks for reading my rant, and I look forward to all replies.

Not so much a rant but an accurate description of my problem.
Exactly the same...bricked.
I'm about to send it to the Drone Nerds in Florida.
 
As suggested here I have been using Litchi since it was first released instead of DJI firmware. I also have 2 back-up quads with 9 batteries, 3DR SOLOs. They don't have the range and flight time of my P3P but they are as reliable as a Toyota Tacoma pickup when you have a job to do.

At some point I expect to buy a more recent Phantom but I will continue to use Litchi and never upgrade DJI firmware!

Carl


Again! Dump DJI Go and use Litchi and forget firmware updates! ...snip...
Good luck
Jim
WA5TEF
 
Cross-posted on DJI Support Forum

After all my ranting, and although I am still bummed about the lack of drone for a month...

I can't just let my previous posts go without an amendment.

When the DJI web folks fixed their Support Request website link, I decided to bite the bullet and ship the bricked controller into DJI for repair, expecting to pay $75 and wait another month or so.

I was provided with a UPS sticker (no cost for me to ship it), and within a few days I received an email that it had been received, and I'd be notified of the prognosis soon.

In a couple more days, I received another email that the repair is complete, and the service was performed "under warranty" -- no charge, even though the RC is 3 years old!! Whoo-hoo!
Today I received UPS tracking info and a Monday arrival date. If it indeed arrives on Monday, that's a 10-day turnaround -- excellent for any large tech firm!

My excitement about finally flying again, and DJI's quick and painless return/repair process has certainly helped reduce my frustration level, although I am still very worried about re-bricking the "repaired" RC (so far no explanation of why the firmware update failed -- maybe that will come with the returned unit? I only fly with Litchi anyway -- the only thing I used GO for was firmware updates, so it will be Litchi-only from now on).

I'd was so dreading a long expensive repair experience, and DJI has apparently proved me wrong on that. And although I stand by the facts I presented, I could have tempered my tone a bit. So, I do apologize to DJI and DJI fans for being so harsh. And I never believed the "kill-code" conspiracy theories.

That said, we'll see what I get back on Monday, and I'll post the news here, good or bad!
 
Hello friends, Long time no see. My p3p has been sitting most of the time so now I would like to sell it. I locked the dedicated Nvidia shield wifi access down when the bird was on 1.9.60 (and it's been working great ever since). Now my question is should I update it before selling it? If I try the update, do I have to stop off at different levels or can it go straight to the latest? Thanks in advance.
 
Hello friends, Long time no see. My p3p has been sitting most of the time so now I would like to sell it. I locked the dedicated Nvidia shield wifi access down when the bird was on 1.9.60 (and it's been working great ever since). Now my question is should I update it before selling it? If I try the update, do I have to stop off at different levels or can it go straight to the latest? Thanks in advance.
Personally, I would leave it as is. The buyer may prefer the earlier version. Let them decide.

I'm still on 1.9.something, maybe 6 but I think it's 2. It's running fine so I'm leaving alone for the time being.

And I think I read somewhere someone got the update messed up because they jumped ahead too far. I think you do need to look at the history and update in order.
 
Well, I went ahead with the update. The bird updated just fine but somehow I forgot how to update the controller. All the utube videos said just stick the same file in the USB slot. When that didn't work, I connected with the bird and stumbled through the update via the app. I sure didn't want the new buyer asking me how to update.
 
Well, I went ahead with the update. The bird updated just fine but somehow I forgot how to update the controller. All the utube videos said just stick the same file in the USB slot. When that didn't work, I connected with the bird and stumbled through the update via the app. I sure didn't want the new buyer asking me how to update.
That would be it!
 
My final post on this topic -- I received the package from DJI on Saturday, earlier than expected. However, it did not contain my repaired GL300B controller. Instead was a brand new GL300C controller!
DJI, there was no mention of replacement anywhere, only repair. My GL300B had a black carbon-fiber wrapper on it and an aluminum Inspire-type bracket. In retrospect I should have removed the bracket, but peeling off the wrap would have ruined it. So, I guess I loose those two items in the process.

But, the GL300C connected to my P3P just fine, and after checking all the GO and Litchi settings, I did a 10 minute backyard flight and all appears to be working great, so I won't sweat the bracket and wrap. I'm flying again, so I guess all is well.

Lessons learned:
NEVER UPDATE FIRMWARE!
FLY WITH LITCHI ONLY
REMOVE ALL ACCESSORIES BEFORE SENDING ANYTHING TO DJI FOR "REPAIR"
KEEP YOUR COOL ON THE FORUMS

Onwards & Upwards!!
 

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