Weak image transmission signal

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Guys,

Why am I getting "weak image transmission signal" when just a relatively short distance from take off?

Is it safe to fly with this message & how could I rectify it please?
 
What is your definition of a "relatively short distance"?

One mile (1.6 km) should be the expected max distance in Europe with clear line of sight between the transmitter and the drone. In unpopulated areas you can sometimes stretch it to 1.5 miles or slightly more, but if you fly in residental areas where there are strong WiFi sources, such as domestic wireless modems, it will be significantly shorter.

Moisture in the air (mist or fog) will also shorten the distance, and trees (even bare branches without foliage) between you and the drone will cut off the signal directly.

If you get a much shorter distance (like a few hundred feet or less) check the alignment of the antennas of the remote - they should be perpendicular to the line to the drone, NOT pointing towards it. Also check if there are any other transmittors nearby that might create interference.

Whether or not it is safe to fly is up to you - you will probably still have control over the Phantom, but you will have difficulty seeing where it flies, as the video signal will keep breaking up. Flying with a weak image transmission signal is also flirting with a total loss of video, telemetry and control signal. Getting the drone disconnected in midair is not the end of the world as it will trigger the autonomous failsafe RTH, but it is scary. I wouldn't push it.
 
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To maximize distance, look at your channels in the HD setting page and determine which one has the least amount of traffic. For P4 craft, you'll get the best distance by selecting a channel with the least amount of traffic. AFTER you do that, you will see an option to adjust the "transmission quality". Move that slider from 10mpbs down to 4mbps. After you do those two things, try it out and report back. Also, using a Windsurfer helps to extend things further. I like the fold-able kind because it keeps the antennas parallel.

The above is not recommended for P4P, only P4 and P3A/P craft.
 
I have P3S.
Sitting in my living room, 10 feet from the drone, on DJO GO app, I get a "WEAK SIGNAL TRANSMISSION" notice.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
 
P4 iPad Mini 2 issues
This combo is not usable for filming as image signal is constantly stuttering with blackouts and green screen and freezing at any distance. I get enough of a glimpse from camera to keep it in the air. This iPad mini is a dedicated P4 monitor with no apps installed. I absolutely confirmed it has nothing to do with outside interference. Several flights 125 miles offshore in Costa Rica, 30 miles off the coast in Guatemala, and in the middle of nowhere on a safari in Namibia. All of these locations had me flying with only the occasional glimpse of what my camera was seeing - hovering 10 feet away, or 1 mile away. Also it has been consistent with the last three firmware updates. Recently I flew again in my driveway and immediately had transmission issues. All equipment was a/C cold so that eliminated the heat issue I was thinking. While P4 was hovering I unplugged iPad Mini and switched to iPhone 7 and image was perfect, steady, and clear. Ten complete full battery flights in the city this week and my phone screen has not blinked once. Moral of story is that iPad mini with P4 sucks.
 
I have P3S.
Sitting in my living room, 10 feet from the drone, on DJO GO app, I get a "WEAK SIGNAL TRANSMISSION" notice.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Try it outside in an open field away from your home Wi-Fi router. Are you new to this drone or did it work better before?

It would better to post this issue in the P3S section of this forum instead of the P4 section.
 
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I like to know, if i raise aircraft about 100-120 M above buildings, should i then get good signal, considering the wi-fi connection in buildings?
 
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You can try to re-link remote controller and aircraft and see if that helps.
 
I like to know, if i raise aircraft about 100-120 M above buildings, should i then get good signal, considering the wi-fi connection in buildings?
Yes, the farther from buildings the better signal you'll get, it's cleaner air space, especially if you're higher.
 
To maximize distance, look at your channels in the HD setting page and determine which one has the least amount of traffic. For P4 craft, you'll get the best distance by selecting a channel with the least amount of traffic. AFTER you do that, you will see an option to adjust the "transmission quality". Move that slider from 10mpbs down to 4mbps. After you do those two things, try it out and report back. Also, using a Windsurfer helps to extend things further. I like the fold-able kind because it keeps the antennas parallel.

The above is not recommended for P4P, only P4 and P3A/P craft.

thabks John. I've so far tried re-linking the controller, range extenders, flying clear of interference,
To maximize distance, look at your channels in the HD setting page and determine which one has the least amount of traffic. For P4 craft, you'll get the best distance by selecting a channel with the least amount of traffic. AFTER you do that, you will see an option to adjust the "transmission quality". Move that slider from 10mpbs down to 4mbps. After you do those two things, try it out and report back. Also, using a Windsurfer helps to extend things further. I like the fold-able kind because it keeps the antennas parallel.

The above is not recommended for P4P, only P4 and P3A/P craft.

Thanks John,
I've tried all of the other suggestions and I'm still getting the warning at about 600m wherever I fly.
Please could you explain your suggestion in further detail as I can't work through it?
Many thanks..
 
The P4 GL300C RC is anemic, even in the US. Notice I don't fly with the GL300C myself (see my signature) when flying my P4, I use the Inspire RC, GL658A. The UK CE limitations makes things even worse. I recommend you talk with your local drone shop to seek advice, but using a Sunhans amplifier, with an Itelite DBS2 antenna is the only sure way to get a couple miles range in the UK. I'm unsure how DJI detunes the P4 based on the UK GPS location. I'm not sure if they reduce the RC transmit power only, or if they also reduce the Phantom4 craft transmission power too. If someone in the UK would take RF measurements with the Immersion RF Meter, we could compare results with my measurements last year for US FCC regulated craft.
 
I've tried all of the other suggestions and I'm still getting the warning at about 600m wherever I fly.

Please could you explain your suggestion in further detail as I can't work through it?
Click the HD icon. Put yourself on the 5.8Ghz band. Then click CUSTOM. Then look at the traffic meters for each channel to determine which one is the least busy. Most the time I've flown most all of the 5.8 channels have no traffic, unlike 2.4Ghz. Select a custom channel. Then in that same screen reduce the "Transmission quality" to 4mbps.

See how that works for you with a windsurfer.

You mention "the warning". Please describe EXACTLY what the warning says.

Have you made sure MAX distance isn't enabled?

upload_2017-8-27_22-7-40.png
 
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To maximize distance, look at your channels in the HD setting page and determine which one has the least amount of traffic. For P4 craft, you'll get the best distance by selecting a channel with the least amount of traffic. AFTER you do that, you will see an option to adjust the "transmission quality". Move that slider from 10mpbs down to 4mbps. After you do those two things, try it out and report back. Also, using a Windsurfer helps to extend things further. I like the fold-able kind because it keeps the antennas parallel.

The above is not recommended for P4P, only P4 and P3A/P craft.

Why won't this work for P4P?
 
Why won't this work for P4P?
P4P just seems to work better on 5.8Ghz AUTO. The P4 and P3A/P only have 2.4Ghz. I suspect it has to do with the higher 5.8Ghz frequency, it may be more efficient with AUTO and switching channels by itself. Most people have been happy with 5.8Ghz AUTO getting over 4mi range with a Windsurfer. I personally believe the better 5.8Ghz performance has more to do with less people using it for Wifi, and if they do the signal doesn't escape the home/building as easy, as the 5.8Ghz band doesn't penetrate walls as good as 2.4Ghz, hence there's less interference where we fly outside.
 
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Why won't this work for P4P?

John's procedure is working great for my P4P, with same issues. I am in a High Wifi Polluted airspace, lol. Never thought Id think of wifi pollution.

ANYWAY, I did not know about this solution, I simply stumbled on it myself and viola here I see it suggested. Thought I was clever. tee hee.

SO

P4P ITS or Image Transmission Settings

Channel Mode: Custom
Frequency: 5.8
Channel 10
Transmission Quality 6Mbps

iPad Settings which seem to have something to do with it.

Airplane Mode On
Cache Map before you fly.

RC: Video Cache is disabled.
Map Cache is ENABLED.


So far so good. I cannot yet determine my problem is due to the aircraft or the area I fly in.
 
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Made an interesting observation today regarding the wifi state of the ipad I was using as the control device. Got "disconnected" repeatedly. Changed ipad to airplane mode and connection was stable. Checked "Image Transmission Settings" and found noise levels were evident on several channels. Switched airplane mode to off and noise levels were very stable. Flew a 20 min flight with no issues.
 
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