Vision 2+ wifi units fix and why they are dying.

[RichWest]

The holes, supposedly, do not allow the signal to leak out due to their angle in relation to the RF chips. However the copper foil tape seals/shields the two haves at a seam, which is at the same angle as the RF chips. Again, not an educated explanation...just based on my google'ing research for same.

I did the mod to my existing wifi unit and have had no issues related to RF interference. Others having performed the same mod did have issues...

 

[eyecon82]

Well, I did the Arctic silver fix on mine. My wifi module had holes on the bottom. Versus the v2, where there are no holes at all and versus the newest one were there are holes on top and bottom.

 

[hunch]

Just to document, lost my fpv months ago after leaving the craft in the hot car for a few hours. Purchased the wifi unit from DDM in December, quick and easy install, All is back to normal. So much better to have video when flying.

One question, heard the new units were perrated, did I just get old stock?

I was in the same boat (car) as you. Now you have reassured me on why my WIFI module died.
I left my unit in a hot car. Damaged the wifi module and puffed up a battery. Costly mistake.

I knew of the perforated v3 modules at that time but couldn't get a hold of them. I asked around for a replacement and all the suppliers said they had not heard of this.
I ended up getting a second hand unit and did the Artic silver mod.

***SO PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PHANTOMS IN HOT CARS!!!!****

BTW,, your battery puffed only because the battery was probably fully charged. if it wasn't it wouldn't puff FYI.

 

[rwskinner]

I wonder if you let a little charge out if the puff will go away, ya know, like an overinflated tire? :lol:
[quote="hunch]
BTW,, your battery puffed only because the battery was probably fully charged. if it wasn't it wouldn't puff FYI.[/quote]

 

[eyecon82]

Well, I did the Arctic silver fix on mine. My wifi module had holes on the bottom. Versus the v2, where there are no holes at all and versus the newest one were there are holes on top and bottom.

wow, this helped tremendously. No black screen of death, no choppiness, etc..

 

[Mopar Bob]

I did the arctic grease job and have one question. When I took the bottom cover off, there was a foam pad. I removed the pad and replaced it with Arctic silver. Was that the right thing to do or should I have left the pad there. I also replaced the white stuff that was in the top part of the cover with the arctic silver also.

 

[CapnBob]

The holes are very small with respect to a wavelength @ 2.45 GHz, and are essentially an aperture below cutoff. They are unable to radiate a wave.
Think the perforated screen in your microwave oven window, which operates at the same frequency. This is why you don't cook, but the food does.

A wavelength @ 2.45 GHz is 4,8". If you have an opening or aperture that approaches a large fraction of a wavelength, it can develop a voltage across the opening and become essentially a slot radiator at the operating frequency. The seam along the periphery of the WiFi Module is long with respect to a wavelength, so must be electrically grounded to avoid becoming a radiating slot. This is why the gasket on your microwave oven door is so important.

 

[eyecon82]

I did the arctic grease job and have one question. When I took the bottom cover off, there was a foam pad. I removed the pad and replaced it with Arctic silver. Was that the right thing to do or should I have left the pad there. I also replaced the white stuff that was in the top part of the cover with the arctic silver also.

No that wasn't. I made the same mistake.

You need to put a copper shim there so it makes contact. Don't forget the final 2 amplifiers too

 

[Mopar Bob]

When I applied the paste, I put it on one side, temporarily assembled the cover and then pulled the cover off. 90% of the paste was transferred to the bare cover. I then applied a little bit more to make it 100% and re-assembled everything. Doesn't that indicate that I have good contact between the component and the cover?

 

[burlbark]

When I applied the paste, I put it on one side, temporarily assembled the cover and then pulled the cover off. 90% of the paste was transferred to the bare cover. I then applied a little bit more to make it 100% and re-assembled everything. Doesn't that indicate that I have good contact between the component and the cover?

That would mean good contact. The bottom thermal pad has been proving to be quite adequate.

Jeremy James

 

[Mopar Bob]

That would mean good contact. The bottom thermal pad has been proving to be quite adequate.

Jeremy James

So, is the thermal pad better than the ARCTIC SILVER? Should I pull the thing apart again and put the thermal pad back in?

 

[burlbark]

That would mean good contact. The bottom thermal pad has been proving to be quite adequate.

Jeremy James

So, is the thermal pad better than the ARCTIC SILVER? Should I pull the thing apart again and put the thermal pad back in?

Arctic silver performed better in all my testing. I just dont think it is required on this bottom chip as it has sufficient heat transfer between it and the whole bottom of the case. They used a really big pad.

 

[eyecon82]

That would mean good contact. The bottom thermal pad has been proving to be quite adequate.

Jeremy James

So, is the thermal pad better than the ARCTIC SILVER? Should I pull the thing apart again and put the thermal pad back in?

from what I know, thermal pads aren't as good as copper shims and arctic silver. So, what I did was remove the thermal pad and put in a copper shim.

 

[48Straight]

The new wifi units have holes in them. Dosnt that defeat the purpose of the casing? Why have copper tape on the area where the two boxes come together and holes in the top?

 

[robsquad]

read from page 12

 

[48Straight]

Sorry, just saw that. I have been searching for awhile now for this answer and it makes sense. Will delete if I can

 

[danillll]

Hey Guys,

I just joined to thank everyone for all the contribution made to this thread and especially burlbark.
I am one of the many who suffered from this (actually bought a used bird with a toasted module, only telemetry working) so I had to suck it up and order a new wifi module.
The other reason I joined is to inform everyone that I just received my wifi module and I was super excited to find out that I got the new wifi module revision yayyyy
I was preparing to do the thermal surgery fix and ordered the arctic silver 5, but I guess I don't need to worry about it anymore? can you confirm?

I got it from b&h photo, please note that I have no affiliation with the vendor, I just want to share how I ended up with the new revision (BTW, shipment was free and expedited, got it in 2 days, very smooth transaction)

I recently started this hobby and I have been contributing to another thread (replacing the vision + gimbal with an aftermarket cheap solution), you can find the info here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... 15&page=24

 

[Mori55]

How much was it ?

 

[BlackTracer]

How much was it ?

It says $189 on the invoice in the picture if you are talking about the wifi module above.

 

[Mori55]