The Official "My P4 Range Is Too Short" Thread - Don't Start New Range Threads!

Hi question please....
Is it possible to pre plan a flight path with the Pro 4 plus or do I have to go up and fly marking the waypoints as I travel?
I believe the latest RC update for the P4P+ allows you to install Litchi. If so, get it, and you can then preplan missions without first flying them. Otherwise, you have to fly the route first in GO 4.
 
Don't you need Google Play Services for Litchi?
I no longer own the P4P+, but had understood that the most recent RC FW update finally allowed installation of 3rd party apps like Litchi. I also don't use any Android products, but I assume that would be through the Android app store, whatever it is called, which must have been enabled.

Edit: Just read elsewhere from a reliable source that it still isn't possible to run 3rd party apps on the P4P+. I must have misunderstood.
 
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I believe you need Google Play Services for Litchi to run. And anyway, there's no way to download the App onto the controller.
 
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Hi question please....
Is it possible to pre plan a flight path with the Pro 4 plus or do I have to go up and fly marking the waypoints as I travel?
You can do a preflight way point with Litche program but not Dji Go app
 
No problems with my P4 but really starting to get tired of constant, non-stop, endless, whining threads about range and how "it's getting sent back".

Let's keep all of the above mentioned items in this thread to allow others enjoy a variety of threads without scrolling through numerous threads about the same thing.

/flamesuiton

Admin Edit: I changed the title to something more appropriate and stickied it. ;)
So I have an issue im not sure how to explain. So when I get about 800 feet away after about five minutes of flight. I start losing image transmission signal..so I land and open up the HD menu and every channel is rapidly blinking red yellow and green and the lines are all bouncing. How can I fix that or is the RC broken?
 
Here is a AirShou screen capture of a 5000m flight. It has been edited for time. Note that when the Phantom reaches over 5000m the RTH point is well behind the the battery's remain capacity. This required returning in Sport mode. The craft did make it back but did not catch up to the RTH point until about 500m from the HP.

wow 5000m . If I'm testing a P4 out and it does not make it out to 18000ft (5486.4m) I think there is a problem. that goes for any P3 adv or Pro I test also. P3 std 9000ft , Mavic ?
Biggest think is your environment.
here is a P4 std going out 20000ft and back with battery to spare. I should of pushed it out to 25000ft.
 
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wow 5000m . If I'm testing a P4 out and it does not make it out to 18000ft (5486.4m) I think there is a problem. that goes for any P3 adv or Pro I test also. P3 std 9000ft , Mavic ?
Biggest think is your environment.
here is a P4 std going out 20000ft and back with battery to spare. I should of pushed it out to 25000ft.
I had my P4 out to over 30,500 feet with full control with an amped DBS02 setup, previously used with my P3P at similar distances. Obviously, clear LOS is required for such range.
 
I had my P4 out to over 30,500 feet with full control with an amped DBS02 setup, previously used with my P3P at similar distances. Obviously, clear LOS is required for such range.
Yep, amping up the GL300C RC is the ONLY way to get that P4 to go far. Stock P4's have a weak RC that craps out at 1 mile (with windsurfer) in many places, even Ch32 with 4mb transmission quality, unlike my P3P that will go 3 miles with a windsurfer, stock otherwise. I resorted to using the Inspire 1 controller which provides P3P-like distance performance.
 
I had my P4 out to over 30,500 feet with full control with an amped DBS02 setup, previously used with my P3P at similar distances. Obviously, clear LOS is required for such range.
the max I've had mine out is 26500ft only mod was windsurfs. I had full control just no battery. I landed with 7%. I think the controller was an A or B but not the C version. Yea that C version is so so at best.
 
the max I've had mine out is 26500ft only mod was windsurfs. I had full control just no battery. I landed with 7%. I think the controller was an A or B but not the C version. Yea that C version is so so at best.
Yes, any range extender without a commensurate battery mod is a fool's errand, unless you only plan on one way flights! Ask me how I know! :eek:
 
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I have a GL300C which has been modded for 2 RP-SMA connectors. I am also in the U.K (CE zone) and as such the transmit range from this controller is rather abysmal. I am therefore looking for a cheap booster amp to add on to increase the power level slightly. I did consider looking for a GL658 which gives a higher output but as I am in the lower CE zone decided I would probably be better adding an amp to this GL300C.
 
I have a GL300C which has been modded for 2 RP-SMA connectors. I am also in the U.K (CE zone) and as such the transmit range from this controller is rather abysmal. I am therefore looking for a cheap booster amp to add on to increase the power level slightly. I did consider looking for a GL658 which gives a higher output but as I am in the lower CE zone decided I would probably be better adding an amp to this GL300C.
Since both are choices mentioned are illegal anyway, might as well hack the FW to use the better stock FCC power.
 
I have tried using a force FCC patch on the 4.1.9 go app but both the RF explorer and IRC V2 power meter show no increase in output power. They always show around 10mw (10dbm) when connected directly to the left SMA on the GL300C controller.
 
I've not tried nolimitdronez.com but have tried Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder patches on the 4.1.9 app.
 
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I've not tried nolimitdronez.com but have tried Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder patches on the 4.1.9 app.
If the latter isn't working for you, try the former. Only $25 to try, with free support to get it working. Lots of happy customers.
 
As my Controller is already modded with SMA connectors. I have decided to go with a small booster amplifier that I can use when needed in tricky/busy 2.4 signal areas to help overcome the loss of control signal under those circumstances made worse by the low CE power. I need to know which 2.4g amps actually work ok with the P4 std / GL300C controller. I have tried a cheapo 2w wi-fi booster that I had knocking around but that does not seem to work with the Gl300C and I actually get less measured power with the amp than without which is never good.
 
As my Controller is already modded with SMA connectors. I have decided to go with a small booster amplifier that I can use when needed in tricky/busy 2.4 signal areas to help overcome the loss of control signal under those circumstances made worse by the low CE power. I need to know which 2.4g amps actually work ok with the P4 std / GL300C controller. I have tried a cheapo 2w wi-fi booster that I had knocking around but that does not seem to work with the Gl300C and I actually get less measured power with the amp than without which is never good.
Everyone else is using the Sunhans 3W boosters with a DBS-02 antenna.
SUNHANS eSunRC 3000mW 2.4Ghz 35dBm WiFi Signal Booster for DJI,Yuneec,3DR,XIRO | eBay
You will still need a 12V external battery to power the two boosters (one for control and one for video), and a tray to support the weight from below! The NoLimitDronez Parameter mod is far cheaper and easier, and adds no weight. Just buy some cheap $10 SMA 2.4Ghz antennas to replace the original.
 

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