Shorted motor

[Dronerookie1]

Hello to all, I had a minor crash with my phantom pro 3. Replaced shell and wire to gimball. Tested unit and all was good to go had to finish putting in some screws and done brand new again. Accidentally I put in longer screw in motor from prop gaurd that I did not use again. By doing that I pinched the wires on 2 motors but didn't realize till I started up for a test. Gimbal still works obviously unit doesnt take off says to shutdown and call dji. The problem is very clear my question is does anyone think I can just swap the two motors and the two lights because the two lights dont light up either or do u think I damaged the board.

Thanks for all who replay to this rookie mistake lol

 

[Starz]

The motors will need to go regardless.
Swap them out and then check the board.

 

[Oso]

Hello to all, I had a minor crash with my phantom pro 3. Replaced shell and wire to gimball. Tested unit and all was good to go had to finish putting in some screws and done brand new again. Accidentally I put in longer screw in motor from prop gaurd that I did not use again. By doing that I pinched the wires on 2 motors but didn't realize till I started up for a test. Gimbal still works obviously unit doesnt take off says to shutdown and call dji. The problem is very clear my question is does anyone think I can just swap the two motors and the two lights because the two lights dont light up either or do u think I damaged the board.

Thanks for all who replay to this rookie mistake lol

Welcome to the forum!

We warn people here at least once per week I think to not use the longer screws after removing prop guards, but sadly it still happens over and over. They usually ask for help with an ESC error, and then later after questioning they reveal that they removed prop guards and used the longer screws. Its nice that you just say so in your post right off the bat!

One good thing about seeing this so much is that we have lots of data. Most of the time the issue is solved with new motors as @Starz suggested earlier. If you choose to do so, make sure you order the correct motors for your main board and also for spin direction.

What often happens next is that people order new motors, and then just splice them in to avoid soldering. Aside from that being a bad idea, they almost always don't realize that the motor wires have a thin coating on them under the rubber insulation. They don't remove that coating and of course the motors then don't work. What we suggest, multiple times just this week in fact, is to not splice the wires but to connect them directly to the main board. Of course, clearing the coating from the wires is still required.

You should be able to find dozens if not hundreds of posts on replacing motors, so be sure to read through them to help you decide your next steps. Especially if you're not confident with soldering.

Good luck!

 

[Dronerookie1]

Thanks for the info, will purchase new motors and see what happens will give u guys the update once completed. I have a feeling the esc is fine possibly unit went into a failure mode for protection at least that's what I'm hoping for.

 

[With The Birds]

Welcome to the forum!

We warn people here at least once per week I think to not use the longer screws after removing prop guards, but sadly it still happens over and over. They usually ask for help with an ESC error, and then later after questioning they reveal that they removed prop guards and used the longer screws. Its nice that you just say so in your post right off the bat!

One good thing about seeing this so much is that we have lots of data. Most of the time the issue is solved with new motors as @Starz suggested earlier. If you choose to do so, make sure you order the correct motors for your main board and also for spin direction.

What often happens next is that people order new motors, and then just splice them in to avoid soldering. Aside from that being a bad idea, they almost always don't realize that the motor wires have a thin coating on them under the rubber insulation. They don't remove that coating and of course the motors then don't work. What we suggest, multiple times just this week in fact, is to not splice the wires but to connect them directly to the main board. Of course, clearing the coating from the wires is still required.

You should be able to find dozens if not hundreds of posts on replacing motors, so be sure to read through them to help you decide your next steps. Especially if you're not confident with soldering.

Good luck!

If your installing new motors there is no need to remove any insulation- the fly leads are pre-prepared for termination, they even tin the ends with solder ready to be sweated onto the PCB pads.

 

[Oso]

Good point. If the motors arrive with wires that are ready to go, well then you're gold. It's even more maddening to think that people cut and splice them.

 

[With The Birds]

Good point. If the motors arrive with wires that are ready to go, well then you're gold. It's even more maddening to think that people cut and splice them.

If you don’t have the tools or basic soldering skills it’s easy to see how the hack job might seem a reasonable solution. We all start somewhere and have varied talents for that matter...

 

[Dronerookie1]

Hello, it's been a while been busy as hell working with no play. So I finally swapped out the motors in this and all is good. This unit is pretty smart went in to a safe condition to prevent further damage. I just updated everything and hopefully get it back in the air soon.