Setting up the Futaba T8FGS (or 14SG) with the P2

Ian,

I enjoyed Day 2 with your v4 model. A question: what is the interaction between the auto-tilt lever and the manual tilt? For example, if I use manual lever to tilt from 0 degrees (horizontal) to down 10 degrees, then flip the auto-tilt lever to the middle or full down position, does the camera go to absolute positions (45 and 90, in this case) or does it go an incremental 45 and 90? slightly confused by the behavior/interaction I am seeing.

Kelly
 
wkf94025 said:
Ian,

I enjoyed Day 2 with your v4 model. A question: what is the interaction between the auto-tilt lever and the manual tilt? For example, if I use manual lever to tilt from 0 degrees (horizontal) to down 10 degrees, then flip the auto-tilt lever to the middle or full down position, does the camera go to absolute positions (45 and 90, in this case) or does it go an incremental 45 and 90? slightly confused by the behavior/interaction I am seeing.

Kelly

It's a little confusing but think about it this way: There's one channel for the gimbal tilt which has a range of -1,000 to 1,000. Both the switch and the slider influence that number. When the switch is in the middle it adds nothing. And when the slider is in the middle it is adding nothing. I tend to put keep the slider in the middle and mostly use the switch for filming. If I need to quick pan just to see from the FPV what's around, I'll use the slider from wherever the switch currently is.
 
Well it was a event full morning. Went out to my testing ground. Got bird in the air and started
playing around. Not use to the throttle and panic under a tree and clipped some lawn and caught the bird med air. What I didn't realize is some how I hit the FS switch. Which cause rapid climb then the tree cause the descent. Here my question to ianwood. Would it be possible to add a audible tone when it's in FS. That way you know? Kinda like the beep every min in flight. Maybe a continuous beep when in FS. I know dummy proof.

Thanks





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I don't think there is. It's pretty easy to knock the switches or take off with one not set right. You just need to be very aware of where the switches are. Make it part of your preflight checks.
 
To prevent accidental Failsafe with SF, why not add a new condition like this:
SF only --> nothing
SE only --> nothing
SE and SF both pulled --> Failsafe
 
tonben said:
Hi again all,

Just a reminder of my issue.

Loaded ianwood's T8FGS profile onto my T14SG to be able to get all the goodies he was able to program for us.

I was not able to get it to start.

*Update*
Re-loaded profile into 14SG, re-calibrated sticks in Software assistant.(with all switches back except SB was is in the middle position) the P2 still did not start.

However........ in playing around with the sticks it started when the left stick was in the 1 o'clock and the right was in the 11o'clock positions.
Additionally, the throttle works in reverse.

So question..... am I supposed to put the elevator and throttle in reverse in Software Assistant????
Because I did.

Do i reverse the throttle on the radio????


Where is it suggested I go from here??

Tony......

issue solved!!!

I had the elevator and throttle in reverse in Software Assistant..

returned them to normal and the P2 started-up.

Thanks to all for their help.......

tony.

P.S. ianwood...email address??
 
ianwood said:
wkf94025 said:
Ian,

I enjoyed Day 2 with your v4 model. A question: what is the interaction between the auto-tilt lever and the manual tilt? For example, if I use manual lever to tilt from 0 degrees (horizontal) to down 10 degrees, then flip the auto-tilt lever to the middle or full down position, does the camera go to absolute positions (45 and 90, in this case) or does it go an incremental 45 and 90? slightly confused by the behavior/interaction I am seeing.

Kelly

It's a little confusing but think about it this way: There's one channel for the gimbal tilt which has a range of -1,000 to 1,000. Both the switch and the slider influence that number. When the switch is in the middle it adds nothing. And when the slider is in the middle it is adding nothing. I tend to put keep the slider in the middle and mostly use the switch for filming. If I need to quick pan just to see from the FPV what's around, I'll use the slider from wherever the switch currently is.

Ian,

Thanks for clarifying the interaction between tilt switch and tilt slider. Helpful to know they are independent, though I think I have seen some confusing interaction. I would answer this question myself if it wasn't pouring rain outside, or my wife was okay with flying in the house.

What happens (or should happen) if the camera is at 10 degrees downward (0 = horizontal) and the tilt switch is moved from any position to another position? Does the new switch position become the absolute tilt target of gimbal? I.e., 0, 45, or 90 depending on the new switch position? Same question if the camera was say at 60 degrees downward: will it go to one of 0, 45, or 90 depending on the new switch position? I have definitely experienced situations in early testing where putting the switch in the northernmost position only takes the camera most of the way to 0 degrees. That behavior made me think the tilt switch was +45 degrees or -45 degrees, as opposed to absolute position targets of 0, 45, 90.

Related question: it's rare I use 90 degrees downward in filming, and might take the 0/45/90 system to 0/22.5/45. Any crib notes on how to modify tilt switch to focus on the upper end of current range?

Nice work on the compass jihad. Fingers crossed.

Kelly
 
Other questions for Fellow Futabans:

1) Any sense for how many flights the Futaba stock battery is good for? I will likely recharge the Futuba daily to be safe, but was curious if anyone has been tracking battery drain.

2) On the 14SG, with extra channels sitting there unused, wondering what nifty uses someone will come up with for unused channels. First thought that comes to my mind is a shutter servo for GoPro stills, though with interval mode on GoPro, and camera memory essentially free, remote shutter is a bit of a solution looking for a problem.

3) Anyone installed the Futaba received and playing with the telemetry back at all? I am quite content with the wealth of information that iOSD mini provides, other than lack of GPS coordinates. Don't care much about OAT, true altitude, RPMs, etc. Controller signal strength would be interesting. Again, maybe a solution looking for a problem.

4) Range tests -- has anyone done controlled LOS range tests? Curious about:
a) comparison to stock radio (mine was excellent until Ian's v4 sent it into retirement)
b) range with stock P2 receiver versus range with Futaba receiver
c) antenna layout experiments on P2 that influence range
d) any anecdotal experience with transmitter battery level and its impact on range.

Thanks all.

Kelly
 
Discharge your battery (just leave the tx on) if you haven't brought it down to the warning voltage. Recharging daily on a partially depleted battery is not good for the battery (Futaba makes a big point of this in the instruction manual).

Uses for the extra channels - use one to run a switch to set LEDs or extra video feed (needs OSD MKII or a video switch). Camera shutter might be an opportunity but like you said, a solution looking for a problem. Anyone else?
 
Thanks LK. Duly noted on battery care.
 
Curious if anyone here has updated the Phantom to the latest FW that was just released? I have heard/read of issues with it over on RCGroups... :shock:
 
hsestes said:
Curious if anyone here has updated the Phantom to the latest FW that was just released? I have heard/read of issues with it over on RCGroups... :shock:


Follow this.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10854
 
I am wondering if Futaba range optimization warrants a new thread. If so, please feel free to hijack this post that way.

I did some range tests last night on my P2 with Lilliput 664 with SpiroNet CP antennas (vs Fatshark Attitude SD's) and in the process experienced somewhat less range on the Futaba 14SGH than I have enjoyed on the stock radio. Given the many cool filming features on the Futaba, no way am I going back, but I am hopeful of improving the Futaba/P2 range to near what the stock radio provides me. In the past, I have flown stock P2 and stock radio 1.6km with zero instance of FS/RTH kicking in. ImmersionRC 250mW onboard for video Tx, as well as iOSD mini, Zenmuse 3H-2D, if any of those matter. Otherwise stock setup. Quite pleased with that range, which gave me 5+ minutes of shooting down range before scampering home. My personal records of 1.6km, 1.5km, 1.3km have all been from a hilltop of approximately 50 meters altitude, with zero development/interference for at least half a mile around me, and flying straight out to sea (and back, thankfully) at altitudes of -30 meters to +100 meters from home point. So probably one of the cleaner test labs for range.

Last night's Futaba range tests were in my small town with lots of homes, WiFi, cell towers, etc. The usual suburban noise. I flew mostly straight up, to 1.3km, then flew horizontally a couple hundred meters to test FPV range. I was conscious of Futaba antenna orientation, and also keeping radio somewhat away from me so that I wasn't a source of blockage with P2 mostly overhead. Well before 1km, the P2 started kicking in to FS/RTH. Each time I was able to adjust position a bit, toggle flight mode, and regain control, continuing the ascent, keeping an eye on sats and battery level. The spooky lesson I learned (almost the hard way) is that when you lose control to FS/RTH at high altitudes, the autopilot doesn't seem to have the same urgency I had to get the @#$% ship down from 1,300 meters before battery exhaustion. Noob mistake I will think twice about before going there again. My logic is going mostly up and then a little bit horizontal was to remove nearby interference from the test. BTW, the FPV range on the Lilliput 664 with SpiroNet on it is now nearly as good as the Fatsharks, which was nowhere near the case with the stock whip antenna.

Bottom line: I am losing intermittent control in the 900 to 1,300 meter range with the Futaba that I doubt (based on past experience) I would have experienced with the stock radio.

Questions re Futaba range optimization:
1) I have done nothing with antenna placement on the P2. The ImmersionRC + SpiroNet Tx antenna is straight out the back centerline of the ship, then 90 degrees downward. Are there simple optimizations I can make in the stock receiver antenna placement?
2) Has anyone done any controlled experiments with the corresponding Futaba receiver in place of the stock DJI receiver?
3) I have seen posts about getting longer antennae for the Futaba receiver. Welcome any insights there as to results.
4) Any tricks or tips when FS/RTH start kicking in? BTW, putting the ship in a slow yaw with the volume knob is a fun way of knowing immediately when you've lost contact -- the image stops rotating as you climb.

As I said above, the benefits of the programmability of the Futaba for smooth video means I am never going back (thanks Ian), but I would like to get range back up in the 1.5km to 2km range, if possible. Willing to solder, experiment, and/or spend $$ to get there.

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Kelly
 
Kelly, the best way to get the range you want is with positioning the antennas. I've been out to 1.5km using the Futaba antennas that came with the radio without any hint of FS kicking in. I have them both routed down the front struts of the Phantom. I've mounted the receiver underneath the main board to reduce the path the antennas take to get down the struts. There's a pic of it in the first post in this thread. If you want to go even further, the longer antennas is what you're going to need. I don't have the link in front of me but there have been a couple threads here on it. It will allow you to route the antennas very far down the landing gear. That should have you back at stock setup range if not better.
 
Since I have updated my firmware on P2 should I first recalibrate sticks with stock RC or will Futatba work?


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extrememc said:
Since I have updated my firmware on P2 should I first recalibrate sticks with stock RC or will Futatba work?


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You need to use the controller you will be flying with. If you're flying with the Futaba, then use it when doing the stick calabration. Just remember to have the triple rate switch in the full throw position when you calibrate the sticks or it will throw everything off!
 
Ok thanks Desertflyer. I will calibrated them again to be sure. I also will take some screen shot so I can post. My craft is drifting real bad after FW update.


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extrememc said:
Ok thanks Desertflyer. I will calibrated them again to be sure. I also will take some screen shot so I can post. My craft is drifting real bad after FW update.


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I'm thinking your drift issue is unrelated to the Futaba. Have you done the advanced IMU re-cal?
 
No how do I do Advance IMU re-cal?


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