Setting up the Futaba T8FGS (or 14SG) with the P2

Rich007 said:
Hi all

I bought a Futaba 14SG from Kings Lynn Model Shop in the UK. Was about to send of for a 'spring return kit', but though I should take the back off the 14SG to have a look. To my surprise all I had to do was remove 1.5" sq flat bit of plastic, by removing three screws and a ''metal clip' that produces the ratchet noise.

T14SG with R7008SB kit mode 2 UK bought.

I have looked through the manual and cannot find any information on this modification to the Tx.

Regards Rich

Just finished modifying mine. It was same as the T8 - required the kit. Must be different versions out there.
 
Isn't this the difference between the airplane and helicopter model? Non-centering vs centering?
 
Installed v4 on my 14SG/R7008SB with no issues at all. Calibrated in Naza Assistant and flew it immediately without any issues.

Thanks to Ian Wood for all his time creating this profile.
 
Hi everyone - first post for me on this forum.

Had a P2 for a few months with FPV and got my T14SG last week - I'd like to thank Ian for the profile and also all of the community responses to this post across the first 43 pages which have saved me a lot of time in setting things up. AWESOME sharing guys, thanks.

Couple of things / comments:

1. I've seen a few comments on how to get two different speeds for the gimbal tilt. While I know there is no solution with the motor function (some for of speed dual rate), I've left it as per Ian's v4 profile and also reduced the SERVO SPEED against GEAR. I don't really need the default full speed for anything as it's too quick anyway, so reduced the speed (not as slow as the switch) on the actual channel, and using the MOTOR and mix switch for the 1-45-90 "super slow" tilt.

2. on the same topic, the ideal scenario for me would be that the 3 way switch would be used as "true" incremental on the RS, but without the angle presets - not sure if that's doable. Example:my RS is set at 30 degree as a starting point.
* if the switch is in the middle, nothing happens
* if the swicth is flicked up, this triggers the slow tilt to go up, until the switch goes back to the middle or hits the endpoint
* vice versa, if the switch is down, slow tilt goes down until you put it back to middle or hits the endpoint
while this would have challenges if you are operating in blind, but with FPV I see greater control with this solution - just don't know how to make it happen :)

3. does anyone have a solution on adding a channel for shutter control on the hero3, or even switch from pict to video? you would think the gimbal should be able to deal with this as it has interface back to the P2 motherboard? If not, any third party solution that doesn't involve taking your gopro apart and soldering stuff to the buttons?

Thanks

Nico
 
1. Didn't know you could do that. I'll look at that. Thanks.
2. I haven't found a way to do that. It would be cool if it was absolute regardless of RS.
3. Apparently you can get a micro servo, put it on channel 8 and mount it to the GoPro.
 
wildnico said:
Hi everyone - first post for me on this forum.

Had a P2 for a few months with FPV and got my T14SG last week - I'd like to thank Ian for the profile and also all of the community responses to this post across the first 43 pages which have saved me a lot of time in setting things up. AWESOME sharing guys, thanks.

Couple of things / comments:

1. I've seen a few comments on how to get two different speeds for the gimbal tilt. While I know there is no solution with the motor function (some for of speed dual rate), I've left it as per Ian's v4 profile and also reduced the SERVO SPEED against GEAR. I don't really need the default full speed for anything as it's too quick anyway, so reduced the speed (not as slow as the switch) on the actual channel, and using the MOTOR and mix switch for the 1-45-90 "super slow" tilt.

2. on the same topic, the ideal scenario for me would be that the 3 way switch would be used as "true" incremental on the RS, but without the angle presets - not sure if that's doable. Example:my RS is set at 30 degree as a starting point.
* if the switch is in the middle, nothing happens
* if the swicth is flicked up, this triggers the slow tilt to go up, until the switch goes back to the middle or hits the endpoint
* vice versa, if the switch is down, slow tilt goes down until you put it back to middle or hits the endpoint
while this would have challenges if you are operating in blind, but with FPV I see greater control with this solution - just don't know how to make it happen :)

3. does anyone have a solution on adding a channel for shutter control on the hero3, or even switch from pict to video? you would think the gimbal should be able to deal with this as it has interface back to the P2 motherboard? If not, any third party solution that doesn't involve taking your gopro apart and soldering stuff to the buttons?

Thanks

Nico

1). Want it. Have you tried this, or is this just theory at this point?
2). Want it. Bad. How much??
3). Want it. For 14SG crowd, two servos, one for each button on GoPro?

Kelly
 
wkf94025 said:
1). Want it. Have you tried this, or is this just theory at this point?
2). Want it. Bad. How much??
3). Want it. For 14SG crowd, two servos, one for each button on GoPro?

Kelly

1) yep, this works just go to LINKAGE / SRVO SPEED and adjust the number (0-27), the higher the slower

3) sceptical on how to mount this given the mobility of the gimbal, as well as the requirement to take the gopro off the phantom every now and then to stick it on the surfboard. If the gimbal cannot deal with it directly and also blocks the 'serial' port, I wonder if there is any remote system that could work via the usb port... unfortunately I think it is video out only.
For now the closest thing I've seen is this, but a bit nervous on the surgical procedure:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpPfk4sLb3I
 
Nico,

Thanks for the insight on slowing down the tilt. Like that a lot.

The GoPro open heart surgery looks fascinating. If free movement by the gimbal wasn't so important, that would be a fun experiment. Though unless you have remote feedback as to the current state of the GoPro, you would be "driving blind" and having to carefully memorize the menu sequence and track your progress through it via servo action. Of course the best solution is for DJI to go open architecture and give us a channel or two and ability to talk to the camera over the bus on the back. Maybe that's a job better left for 3D Robotics.

Kelly
 
wildnico said:
wkf94025 said:
1). Want it. Have you tried this, or is this just theory at this point?
2). Want it. Bad. How much??
3). Want it. For 14SG crowd, two servos, one for each button on GoPro?

Kelly

1) yep, this works just go to LINKAGE / SRVO SPEED and adjust the number (0-27), the higher the slower

Is this applicable to 8FG as well? Because In Servo under Linkage you can change any numbers.. I am a total noob but i couldnt find this! :?
 
Rallyeman said:
wildnico said:
wkf94025 said:
1). Want it. Have you tried this, or is this just theory at this point?
2). Want it. Bad. How much??
3). Want it. For 14SG crowd, two servos, one for each button on GoPro?

Kelly

1) yep, this works just go to LINKAGE / SRVO SPEED and adjust the number (0-27), the higher the slower

Is this applicable to 8FG as well? Because In Servo under Linkage you can change any numbers.. I am a total noob but i couldnt find this! :?

Hi Rallyeman

Sorry, unsure this might be a functionality of the 14SG that doesn't exit in the 8FG. On the 14SG, the menu is not the SERVO menu, but a standalone SRVO SPEED.

srvospeed1.JPG

srvospeed.JPG
 
Why can't there be a profile created from this extra slow speed tilt? Title it P2 Super Slow. That way we can try it out and it will help aid in learning the controller.


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I installed the profile, calibrated all controls but I can't seem to start up the phantom. What am I doing wrong?
 
I hope you are bench testing with props off first. Make sure all switch are at furthest top position except FS switch. Also make sure you bind radio to copter using the switch in the side of copter. Should be a red light on not bind or green if it is.


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extrememc said:
I hope you are bench testing with props off first. Make sure all switch are at furthest top position except FS switch. Also make sure you bind radio to copter using the switch in the side of copter. Should be a red light on not bind or green if it is.


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Of course. Safety first! Haha. All is good. I figured it out. Thanks man.


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What was it?


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extrememc said:
What was it?


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The switch was in the wrong position. Also a bit off topic but did you call Futaba or email them for your throttle centering kit? I emailed them on both emails (not sure which one is correct) [email protected] and [email protected] but I haven't received any replies. What did you do? And how long did it take to get the kit?
 
dorianclive said:
extrememc said:
What was it?


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The switch was in the wrong position. Also a bit off topic but did you call Futaba or email them for your throttle centering kit? I emailed them on both emails (not sure which one is correct) [email protected] and [email protected] but I haven't received any replies. What did you do? And how long did it take to get the kit?

I don't believe they ever replied to my email. The spring just showed up in my mailbox. :)
 
DesertFlyer53 said:
dorianclive said:
extrememc said:
What was it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The switch was in the wrong position. Also a bit off topic but did you call Futaba or email them for your throttle centering kit? I emailed them on both emails (not sure which one is correct) [email protected] and [email protected] but I haven't received any replies. What did you do? And how long did it take to get the kit?

I don't believe they ever replied to my email. The spring just showed up in my mailbox. :)

I guess I'm waiting then....[WEARY FACE][WEARY FACE][WEARY FACE]


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