Prop dyeing question
- Thread starter Hugh-1
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I can respect a hobby shooter. However I doubt you're that good as displayed by many folk before you.
The only way this debate could be settled is by you simply going out and buying a drone and rocket that puppy up to say 600 feet and fly around like a bandit looking for a bird.
Then let you take your shots at said moving target. The video footage would of course prove if you hit the drone. But make sure you count your bullets!!
I am not many folk before me. I am me. I know what I can do. I don't know what they can do
My dad and mom used to run the skeet/trap range at Eglin back in the '70s. I was constantly out there shooting and reloading after school. I frequently went to school with a trunk of shotguns (oh the horror of doing THAT today huh?) so could leave direct for the range after school. I have my 25 of 25 and 50 out of 50 patches. In fact I got my 50 out of 50 and I used only 49 shells. Yes, I hit 2 birds with one shell (quite by accident). I used to pheasant, quail and duck hunt with dad. Frequently deer hunted. I know about leading and tracking moving targets.
I am equally adept at 223. Here is a 100yd test group for my reloads:
Since its illegal to fly >400'. Not an option. I will gladly take a P3 you UPS to me to the range and video its destruction. I will even send you the remains.
I load my own ammo so thats not an issue.
That looks like a lot of fun too! I don't recognize that tripod on it.
Here is one of my GDs on my 10/22
Not to further this off the track, I will drop the O/T line.
Thats impressive shooting!.I am not many folk before me. I am me. I know what I can do. I don't know what they can do
My dad and mom used to run the skeet/trap range at Eglin back in the '70s. I was constantly out there shooting and reloading after school. I frequently went to school with a trunk of shotguns (oh the horror of doing THAT today huh?) so could leave direct for the range after school. I have my 25 of 25 and 50 out of 50 patches. In fact I got my 50 out of 50 and I used only 49 shells. Yes, I hit 2 birds with one shell (quite by accident). I used to pheasant, quail and duck hunt with dad. Frequently deer hunted. I know about leading and tracking moving targets.
I am equally adept at 223. Here is a 100yd test group for my reloads:
Since its illegal to fly >400'. Not an option. I will gladly take a P3 you UPS to me to the range and video its destruction. I will even send you the remains.
I load my own ammo so thats not an issue.
That looks like a lot of fun too! I don't recognize that tripod on it.
Here is one of my GDs on my 10/22
Not to further this off the track, I will drop the O/T line.
I added the bipod (took from my ar) and scope..easier for the kid to shoot on the pod since its pretty heavy for him to hold lol
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Thanks man, that is some interesting info. I just cant see the reason personally to camo a drone, but thats just me, others are obviously free to camo their stuff if they wish.
Thanks man, that is some interesting info. I just cant see the reason personally to camo a drone, but thats just me, others are obviously free to camo their stuff if they wish.
I fully agree. Camo on a drone seems like a dumb idea. I was just responding to his "stealth" comment.
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Yeah, getting back on topic, I used liquid rit dye with some not quite boiling water in a glass baking dish. Mixed them together, dropped my props in, I did it for maybe 10 mins, came out a okay to me denim blue color. Rinsed them in cool water, dried with a paper towel & now they wait for me to fly again. Rain & works been killing me.
I'm not camo'ing mine in any way as I usually fly near woods so anything green, brown will definitely blend in, I'm even looking to stay away from greys & blacks.
While the dipped shells look awesome, I'll probably just stay with white or get a top skin. I'm wondering if a bright yellow bottom will make it stand out in the sky, I dont care about stealthing, again thats just me.
Wolfie, its all good man, I know your original post was about the stealthing, I just didnt get the reference to baby pink so I asked.
I'm not camo'ing mine in any way as I usually fly near woods so anything green, brown will definitely blend in, I'm even looking to stay away from greys & blacks.
While the dipped shells look awesome, I'll probably just stay with white or get a top skin. I'm wondering if a bright yellow bottom will make it stand out in the sky, I dont care about stealthing, again thats just me.
Wolfie, its all good man, I know your original post was about the stealthing, I just didnt get the reference to baby pink so I asked.
Has anyone looked into these as a dying option:
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I am wondering about adding those to a RIT lime green or orange to boost daytime visibility.
Edit:
Heck with it. Just ordered the kit.
$20.94 with shipping. If it don't work on the props, WTH, I can use it with Halloween decorations as I put over 400w of UV lights out for decorations.
Edit2:
Just checked with the guys at work. They have several broken props for their P2. Probably the same plastic as the P3 props. So I will break those up into small pieces and do some tests with these dyes in combination with RIT. Will post results when I get the experiment done.
Darklight FX - Visual Effects, Photography, Posters, and Tech Products. Blacklight & Glow in the Dark Effects!
I am wondering about adding those to a RIT lime green or orange to boost daytime visibility.
Edit:
Heck with it. Just ordered the kit.
$20.94 with shipping. If it don't work on the props, WTH, I can use it with Halloween decorations as I put over 400w of UV lights out for decorations.
Edit2:
Just checked with the guys at work. They have several broken props for their P2. Probably the same plastic as the P3 props. So I will break those up into small pieces and do some tests with these dyes in combination with RIT. Will post results when I get the experiment done.
Last edited:
No I was actually asking WHY you wanted stealth. To understand your point of view. You chose not to answer.
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I was reading in another thread where the guy just got the hottest water his tap produced, put the props in and, like you, wasn't happy with the results and blotches. He said he left them in the dye/water another 36fhrs, 48hrs total, and they came out looking awesome.
Just throw the pot on the stove. Then your done in 30 minutes or less
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I have one of those plug-in water boiler things... I heated the water to just before it was bubbling, poured it into a glass casserole pan, good to go...
OK, might as well show off mine. RIT liquid dye and hot water in a glass casserole dish. Couldn't keep the water hot (the wife didn't want the dish on the stove) so I put the whole shebang in the oven at 200 deg for about an hour. I'm happy with the way it looks, especially with the Sharkmouth skin.
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Nice! Did you paint the yellow tips or dye them first and tape em off?OK, might as well show off mine. RIT liquid dye and hot water in a glass casserole dish. Couldn't keep the water hot (the wife didn't want the dish on the stove) so I put the whole shebang in the oven at 200 deg for about an hour. I'm happy with the way it looks, especially with the Sharkmouth skin.
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Thanks! I painted them with Testors yellow model spray paint. If I were to do it again, I'd would either mask and dye the tips yellow and then do the black or I would mask the tips to leave them white and dye the black and then paint the tips yellow. The black is hard to cover! Another idea: mask and paint the tips first. I'm not sure whether the dye would affect the paint though. The paint doesn't seem to have affected the balance either.
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Just popping back in to say the dye that I ordered was delivered (to work) over the weekend so I have it in my hands now.
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I will say the bottles look like this under normal light:
The Electric Blue is a spot lighter (closer to almost clear). As I am not overly interested in this color, its not an issue. The consistency is that of water. I was hoping for a thicker dilutable product.
There are warnings on the sheet that accompanies it not to expose to sunlight as it will cause fading. Not sure of the actual exposure time that will cause it. As such I am not sure if the long term use for dying props is a good fit for this product. Daylight is when most of us fly I was hopeful that adding some of these dyes to the dye batch would make the orange or lime green RIT pop under the UV present in daylight. We shall see. If it turns out useless for props, well, there is always Halloween
Hopefully I will try to get dye runs done this week but depends on the homework the granddaughters bring home. Their learning has precedence over hobby matters. If not during the week, then definitely the weekend.
Darklight FX - Visual Effects, Photography, Posters, and Tech Products. Blacklight & Glow in the Dark Effects!
I will say the bottles look like this under normal light:
The Electric Blue is a spot lighter (closer to almost clear). As I am not overly interested in this color, its not an issue. The consistency is that of water. I was hoping for a thicker dilutable product.
There are warnings on the sheet that accompanies it not to expose to sunlight as it will cause fading. Not sure of the actual exposure time that will cause it. As such I am not sure if the long term use for dying props is a good fit for this product. Daylight is when most of us fly
I was hopeful that adding some of these dyes to the dye batch would make the orange or lime green RIT pop under the UV present in daylight. We shall see. If it turns out useless for props, well, there is always Halloween Hopefully I will try to get dye runs done this week but depends on the homework the granddaughters bring home. Their learning has precedence over hobby matters. If not during the week, then definitely the weekend.
Well then hopefully all 4 blades will fade the same since they will all be on your AC... Can't wait to see the results...
Well, its fading at all that I was not very excited about. I wanted to end up with props in a day-glow orange or lime green so that if it ever did crash where it could be obscured (or in winter), I would have a pop of bright color to look for. Anyway, hopefully the experiments will yield something useful before I run out of prop pieces.
I am going to first test absorption of the dye into the plastic before I do anything with RIT. I thought it best to test them seperately prior to combining. I am still mulling over the RIT possibilities. Tangerine, Sunshine Orange are contenders for mixing with the Nuclear Green dye or perhaps the orange dye but unless the orange dye really pops on the prop chips, its out of the running. Aquamarine looks like it may pair well with the two blue florescent dyes. And I don't want pink props so fuschia (no matter how well it glows) is off the slate. Red and purple are also unlikely to make it to the RIT testing. I may try mixing Golden Yellow and Aquamarine RIT to try to form a neon greenish color and may test that with the Nuclear Green UV. I mean unless any of yall have a RIT recipe for a neon greenish color? Jury still out on those.
Since I don't want to risk destroying the dye in a microwave and I don't want to dilute it (with hot water or hot RIT/Water), I am going to let the prop samples sit overnight or possibly until tomorrow after work (maybe longer depending on results). After the photos, I put a 2nd prop chip in the Nuclear Green and I will examine it in the morning to see the extent of the dye penetration after a rinse.
In the wide shots you will see one of my Falcon F16v2 lighting controller boards that I use for my Halloween and Christmas Light display (10,700+ channels and adding more this year, test video before full display out: Christmas Lights 2015 #01). I had been doing some testing on it and was about to move it aside. But I remembered it had an uptime on the display. So I reset it after putting all the prop bits in the dye and am using it as a timer for now.
Under standard cool white florescent light:
Same room lighting but I mounted an 20w FL20 24" UV florescent fixture 24" above my reloading bench.
The green took on an almost anti-freeze look. The Electric Blue went from clear to a mild blue. I couldn't really tell much difference in the other 4. The Fuchsia Fire maybe got a bit pinker but not significantly so.
Here they are under UV only.
As you can see they all do glow to certain extents. Green appears to be the brightest, followed by the Electric blue, and the Blizzard Blue. The Orange was ok. The red was more orange than red. The atomic purple was more blue than purple and the Fuchsia was fairly true to color but not very intense.
Here is my left hand for reference.
And here is my thumb which I spilled a bit of the Blizzard Blue and some drops of the Fuchsia. This is after washing with soap and water! So, I suggest you rubber glove up if you plan on using these dyes. They DO stain skin. And I highly recommend using a tray or other waterproof sheet under your work area as I wouldn't doubt it could penetrate granite or possibly corian counters or sinks.
Since I don't want to risk destroying the dye in a microwave and I don't want to dilute it (with hot water or hot RIT/Water), I am going to let the prop samples sit overnight or possibly until tomorrow after work (maybe longer depending on results). After the photos, I put a 2nd prop chip in the Nuclear Green and I will examine it in the morning to see the extent of the dye penetration after a rinse.
In the wide shots you will see one of my Falcon F16v2 lighting controller boards that I use for my Halloween and Christmas Light display (10,700+ channels and adding more this year, test video before full display out: Christmas Lights 2015 #01). I had been doing some testing on it and was about to move it aside. But I remembered it had an uptime on the display. So I reset it after putting all the prop bits in the dye and am using it as a timer for now.
Under standard cool white florescent light:
Same room lighting but I mounted an 20w FL20 24" UV florescent fixture 24" above my reloading bench.
The green took on an almost anti-freeze look. The Electric Blue went from clear to a mild blue. I couldn't really tell much difference in the other 4. The Fuchsia Fire maybe got a bit pinker but not significantly so.
Here they are under UV only.
As you can see they all do glow to certain extents. Green appears to be the brightest, followed by the Electric blue, and the Blizzard Blue. The Orange was ok. The red was more orange than red. The atomic purple was more blue than purple and the Fuchsia was fairly true to color but not very intense.
Here is my left hand for reference.
And here is my thumb which I spilled a bit of the Blizzard Blue and some drops of the Fuchsia. This is after washing with soap and water! So, I suggest you rubber glove up if you plan on using these dyes. They DO stain skin. And I highly recommend using a tray or other waterproof sheet under your work area as I wouldn't doubt it could penetrate granite or possibly corian counters or sinks.
Thats pretty cool! If you dont get the results your after try the tangerine rit...thats what i used and its pretty **** neon looking in person compared to the pic i posted... i like the dyes you have tho
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