Project MotorPixie - Open Source 2-axis gimbal for P2V
- Thread starter DKDarkness
- Start date
robby666111 said:
Found this, hope it is helpful
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhzXueOutpY[/youtube]
I have copiled a list of parts and sources where one could find them, along with an estimate on how cheap a build could be.
Result:
Cost of building one gimbal: $81.24
Cost if corrected for volume: $64.74
For details, see this document (http://sites.google.com/site/motorpixiegimbals/Resources): http://sites.google.com/site/motorp...e 2D gimbal parts cost.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1
Result:
Cost of building one gimbal: $81.24
Cost if corrected for volume: $64.74
For details, see this document (http://sites.google.com/site/motorpixiegimbals/Resources): http://sites.google.com/site/motorp...e 2D gimbal parts cost.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1
Try rotating it 180 degrees instead. It is designed to be printed on its "face". The orientation on the pictures in the documentation actually reflect the recommended orientation the parts should be printed in you also might want to add 10mm brim for better adhesion to the print bed?
you also might want to add 10mm brim for better adhesion to the print bed?
Yeah I realised that I was printing upside down as well..! Seems to be holding together with support.
I don't have an option in my software for brim. Just raft and support. Brim would be nice. I'll ask the supplier if they plan to add this in a future release of the software.
Would be also good to have selective support, aka the ability to delete some support structures before "sending" to the printer.
I don't have an option in my software for brim. Just raft and support. Brim would be nice. I'll ask the supplier if they plan to add this in a future release of the software.
Would be also good to have selective support, aka the ability to delete some support structures before "sending" to the printer.
If you want to unleash the full potential of your Davinci, have a look at this page: http://www.scribd.com/doc/224483423/Using-Slic3r-With-the-XYZprinting-DaVinci-1-0
I just updated the thingiverse page with revised GoPro mount, so it should be possible to move the IMU from FC200 enclosure to GoPro enclosure and back, without any recalibration of the controller. Just remember to use a paper clip like object to carefully detach the IMU case, as it is a bit fragile (3mm printed pins). Works with IMUs with a two hole configuration, Ø3mm holes, 15mm apart.
So, I have finally got my MotorPixie gimbal printed, installed and working! Yay!
Will post some photos soon, and the mods to the plastics I had to make
I have one question, that I'm hoping someone can help me with. Granted it is a question more about the Basecam controller than the actual design, but the basecam forums were hopeless!
I want to use the Phantom 2 to set the pitch angle of the gimbal. I have wired the pitch pwm wire to the basecam controller, but as soon as I do this it goes crazy. What I think in happening is the Phantom is trying to control the pitch as well as the basecam board. The basecam board is expecting a PWM to set the level of the pitch, but not a control (closed loop) signal. I have played around with the settings for the gimbal in the Phantom 2 Assistant, but they don't make much difference.
So does anyone know how to set this up properly? As a workaround I've been using the basecam feature "set tilt angle by hands" which allows me to manually position the tilt angles (pitch and roll) to get the camera to a better angle, but ideally I "should" be able to do this with the Phantom pitch line? And, I really only want to set the pitch angle.
I know most other 3rd party gimbals use the basecam electronics with pitch input from the Phantom, so it is possible, somehow!
Thanks muchly.
Cheers,
Rob.
Will post some photos soon, and the mods to the plastics I had to make
I have one question, that I'm hoping someone can help me with. Granted it is a question more about the Basecam controller than the actual design, but the basecam forums were hopeless!
I want to use the Phantom 2 to set the pitch angle of the gimbal. I have wired the pitch pwm wire to the basecam controller, but as soon as I do this it goes crazy. What I think in happening is the Phantom is trying to control the pitch as well as the basecam board. The basecam board is expecting a PWM to set the level of the pitch, but not a control (closed loop) signal. I have played around with the settings for the gimbal in the Phantom 2 Assistant, but they don't make much difference.
So does anyone know how to set this up properly? As a workaround I've been using the basecam feature "set tilt angle by hands" which allows me to manually position the tilt angles (pitch and roll) to get the camera to a better angle, but ideally I "should" be able to do this with the Phantom pitch line? And, I really only want to set the pitch angle.
I know most other 3rd party gimbals use the basecam electronics with pitch input from the Phantom, so it is possible, somehow!
Thanks muchly.
Cheers,
Rob.
New final version of the MotorPixie 2-axis gimbal out: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454791
Includes:
* How-to video
* Detailed specifications
* Source Code (make it or make it your own)
Includes:
* How-to video
* Detailed specifications
* Source Code (make it or make it your own)
Attachments
I am not going to sell a DIY kit. But since all files, specifications etc. are freely available any one is welcome to sell a DIY kit if they so please. All they'd have to do, is credit my work (as in adding a tag telling where the design came from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454791/attribution_card) It's as simple as that
DKDarkness said:I am not going to sell a DIY kit. But since all files, specifications etc. are freely available any one is welcome to sell a DIY kit if they so please. All they'd have to do, is credit my work (as in adding a tag telling where the design came from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454791/attribution_card) It's as simple as that
How does it work? Do you put the files on a 3D printer and end up with shiny plastic bits?
You load the files in software running on your computer, and print to the USB-connected 3D printer.
Several hours later, if you're lucky, you have shiny plastic bits.
If you're not lucky, the pieces don't print out right, so you tweak settings and repeat.
Several hours later, if you're lucky, you have shiny plastic bits.
If you're not lucky, the pieces don't print out right, so you tweak settings and repeat.
ProfessorStein said:You load the files in software running on your computer, and print to the USB-connected 3D printer.
Several hours later, if you're lucky, you have shiny plastic bits.
If you're not lucky, the pieces don't print out right, so you tweak settings and repeat.
Shiny you achieve by first printing at maximum resolution and then sanding the bits down and polishing them. Actually 0.2 will sand down and polish just fine (WoD sand paper 180/220/320/600/800/1000 and Dremel polishing tool will give you a VERY polished plastic look) But to work the bits don't need to be shiny. Several hours is very accurate. The document "MotorPixie_2D_gimbal_final_version_parts_specification.pdf" found in files section gives you an estimate for print times (using the specified settings and a Solidoodle 4 printer).
Yes. Sorry. Anymore, I tend to see "shinny" as a synonym for "pretty" or "glorious", rather than "gleaming"... in much the same way Malcolm Reynolds would describe Serenity.
Without sandpaper, you will get "Firefly shinny".
Without sandpaper, you will get "Firefly shinny".
Nice build video! I used Shapeways for my parts, since then however I decided to dip into the 3d printing realm by purchasing a Solidoodle 4 to do my own printing. I hope start printing by the end of next week.
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