P3P Motors Screwed

Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
349
Reaction score
118
Location
Philadelphia
A colleague, complained that his drone wasn't stable. It was wobbling as it tried to maintain position. After landing I noticed that a few of the motor screws were backed out. I tightened them up, not thinking that some of these screws may have been from prop guards. He took the drone home and later found that although the props would spin, it wouldn't take off. Now he gets an ESC warning and the props won't spin, even after I pulled out the long screws. I'm assuming it's just the motors and not the ESC boards. Any way to test the motors individually, he changed some of the screws out before I got to it. I feel somewhat responsible and would rather not buy 4 new motors for him. Anybody have the part # for a P3P motor. I've read that there may be 2 different versions.

Thanks in advance
 
A colleague, complained that his drone wasn't stable. It was wobbling as it tried to maintain position. After landing I noticed that a few of the motor screws were backed out. I tightened them up, not thinking that some of these screws may have been from prop guards. He took the drone home and later found that although the props would spin, it wouldn't take off. Now he gets an ESC warning and the props won't spin, even after I pulled out the long screws. I'm assuming it's just the motors and not the ESC boards. Any way to test the motors individually, he changed some of the screws out before I got to it. I feel somewhat responsible and would rather not buy 4 new motors for him. Anybody have the part # for a P3P motor. I've read that there may be 2 different versions.

Thanks in advance

There are 2 versions.
The newer ones are longer but I have no idea of the part numbers
Sorry
 
P3P Motors "Screwed" ????

Nice play on words there, cneedleman!

When you say " "... and later found that although the props would spin it wouldn't take of...", do you mean the props would spin if he manually turned them himself, or did you mean the motors would turn the props but not to the extent that they would provide lift-off power?

If too-long screws were used they could have pierced the under side of the motor(s) and damaged the wiring inside. I would suggest taking a couple of the motors off and visually checking to see if that was what happened. You would look for evidence of deep scratches or even pock-marks on the underside of the motor, or even visual damage to the wiring inside.

I doubt this would be an ESC problem - unless the ESC is detecting that the motor isn't spinning as fast as it should be spinning considering the power the ESC is delivering to it. Even so, that still points to a motor problem, not an ESC problem.

As for a motor part number - I don't know if there are two versions of the motor or not. You might want to contact DJI directly and give them the model number and the S/N of the drone - they may have the information you need to order new motors.
 
C8C3FAFB-0134-4FF0-A138-AA98CBF79E12.jpeg


It’s easy to identify which version of motor, old is 2312, new 2313A- 960 vs 800kv if I recall correctly. Motors are not interchangeable between mainboard versions.
 
One of my P3Ps is a bit of a cross beed.
It has the new motors on the old shell.
The other has both new motors and shell?

As With The Birds has said, as long and the motors and motherboard (which contains the ESCs) are matched, it doesn't matter that much and both motor versions perform similarly. There are some differences between the old and new shell motor mountings and arms and ways of identifying which shell you have, which are covered in the thread below. I believe that some people have modified newer shells to fit old motors snugly by filing down/snapping off a couple of bits of plastic within the mountings.

How to tell if you have old shell or new...
 
  • Like
Reactions: steve60
As With The Birds has said, as long and the motors and motherboard (which contains the ESCs) are matched, it doesn't matter that much and both motor versions perform similarly. There are some differences between the old and new shell motor mountings and arms and ways of identifying which shell you have, which are covered in the thread below. I believe that some people have modified newer shells to fit old motors snugly by filing down/snapping off a couple of bits of plastic within the mountings.

How to tell if you have old shell or new...
I have had both old and new shells crack- just lucky I guess...
 
I have had both old and new shells crack- just lucky I guess...

Yes, quite a few reported here that the newer shells also developed cracks. But as I've stated here before elsewhere, the number of shells/drones which developed cracks is probably relatively small when compared to the number of drones in the air.

Conversely perhaps, I seem to have been truly lucky and my P3P drone, which I have flown 'moderately' for 1.5 years, has no signs of any cracks.

Luck of the draw I suppose - although I left some prop-guard mounts only on from day one, (I stopped using the prop guards on the first morning), in the belief that it helped spread the stresses and loads. So far it seems to have worked, although maybe I would have had no crack problems anyway...... :)
 
Indeed it is a typo on the model numbers, thanks. The part numbers are a different story- DJI P3-094 & 095 (CW & CCW).

Are they? :)... Oh dear oh dear!... I think it's the other way around!!

For 2312A, part # 95 is the CW one and # 94 is the CCW one.

Precision in all things... ;)

Only joking with you, of course.... :):) (But they are the other way around...) :(+:)
 
So I finally got the P3P apart & I have the older 2312 motors. On the B&H site they list the 2312 motors for the P2 only. I'd like to buy there because of quick delivery. Will these motors work?
 
As With The Birds has said, as long and the motors and motherboard (which contains the ESCs) are matched, it doesn't matter that much and both motor versions perform similarly. There are some differences between the old and new shell motor mountings and arms and ways of identifying which shell you have, which are covered in the thread below. I believe that some people have modified newer shells to fit old motors snugly by filing down/snapping off a couple of bits of plastic within the mountings.

How to tell if you have old shell or new...

That's how it came from the factory and flies just fine so I guess everything matches.
Shells are easy to tell apart because of the larger vents on the new one.
I have reinforcements on my arms just to be sure to be sure.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
143,055
Messages
1,467,298
Members
104,920
Latest member
stovebayen